Registry 3FE Owners Check-In (2 Viewers)

[Zdeech]

@marco. I have never been one to think an LC is slow. My previous FZJ80s never had a problem with what ever I threw at them. I would do 1000 mi mountain biking trips with 6 people, 6 bikes and all our gear. Always did 65 to 70 on the hwy with stock gear and 33s.

With 4.88 and 33s it the 3fe should be just fine. Now that I have kids my pro4x is the camper/toy hauler. My 80 is going to be the rig to get me into the woods and go on my personal trips.

Your 80 has a lot of capability added to it and it looks damn good too!

I found the desmog posts. That is going to be top of the list after entire brake system (on order) and failed shocks are replace.

I have a 91 FJ80 and I went with 4.56 gears. I chose that ratio because it was perfect for 33's, and for my use I didn't plan on going larger than that tire wise. 33's provide me enough clearance, and I wanted to stick with keeping the spare tire in the factory location (don't want to spend crazy dough on a rear bumper / tire carrier). When I made the choice between 4.56 and 4.88 gears, I entered some info in a gearing calculator, and 33's with 4.56 gears were closer to the stock gearing ratio / tire combo compared to 4.88's and 33's.
I had the 4.56 gears installed in 2016 within the first 6 months owning the rig. I had done a 100mm OME lift, put on metric 33's on heavy steel wheels, and added a frontrunner roof rack and 2.5 meter awning. After those additions, the stock gearing was pretty bad on the highway, but still fine around town and on the trail. Going to 4.56 gears was a huge improvement. I was living in Albuquerque, NM at the time, so you start at 5000' in town and go up from there. Moving to Portland, OR near sea level was a big 3FE performance boost.
Anyhow, 4.56 is an option to consider. In my experience, 4.88's with 33" tires would be overkill, especially in the Midwest.

 

[Zdeech]

One of the nicest 3FE 92 LC's I have seen in a while. Last one really sold well. This one looks to be 100% original.

1992 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80

Bid for the chance to own a 1992 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ80 at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #48,508.

bringatrailer.com

Wow, this is pretty wild! I haven't been closely following the 80 series market recently. Those last two rigs you posted were in very nice shape, but wow....$25k and $20k sales prices. Things escalated quickly.
I bought my rust free (NM / TX) '91 FJ80 - unmolested with 166k - in spring 2016 locally off craigslist for $5k. I was happy to have found it, but they weren't impossible to find at the time and I thought I was overpaying by $500 to $1000. A friend of mine thought the price was getting crazy because he had picked up a '92 FJ80 6 or 7 years prior to that for around $3k!

 

[vsatking]

@Zdeech.

That is a good overview of how the 4.56 worked for you. I am pretty low in elevation and have few hills. I should not have much of an issue if I stay with 33s. Something is nagging me about 33s vs 35s. I still have awhile to decide and research the benefits of 33s vs 35s. I might decide 35s for mud and Central WI sand. There is plenty of it. After I drive the LC stock for a year I'll pull the trigger on the tires, gearing and lockers.

You might be absolutely right!

 

[Marco Lau]

@marco. I have never been one to think an LC is slow. My previous FZJ80s never had a problem with what ever I threw at them. I would do 1000 mi mountain biking trips with 6 people, 6 bikes and all our gear. Always did 65 to 70 on the hwy with stock gear and 33s.

With 4.88 and 33s it the 3fe should be just fine. Now that I have kids my pro4x is the camper/toy hauler. My 80 is going to be the rig to get me into the woods and go on my personal trips.

Your 80 has a lot of capability added to it and it looks damn good too!

I found the desmog posts. That is going to be top of the list after entire brake system (on order) and failed shocks

I have a 91 FJ80 and I went with 4.56 gears. I chose that ratio because it was perfect for 33's, and for my use I didn't plan on going larger than that tire wise. 33's provide me enough clearance, and I wanted to stick with keeping the spare tire in the factory location (don't want to spend crazy dough on a rear bumper / tire carrier). When I made the choice between 4.56 and 4.88 gears, I entered some info in a gearing calculator, and 33's with 4.56 gears were closer to the stock gearing ratio / tire combo compared to 4.88's and 33's.
I had the 4.56 gears installed in 2016 within the first 6 months owning the rig. I had done a 100mm OME lift, put on metric 33's on heavy steel wheels, and added a frontrunner roof rack and 2.5 meter awning. After those additions, the stock gearing was pretty bad on the highway, but still fine around town and on the trail. Going to 4.56 gears was a huge improvement. I was living in Albuquerque, NM at the time, so you start at 5000' in town and go up from there. Moving to Portland, OR near sea level was a big 3FE performance boost.
Anyhow, 4.56 is an option to consider. In my experience, 4.88's with 33" tires would be overkill, especially in the Midwest.

yeah 4.56 is of no use for me...i use it for occasional rock crawl and camping, fishing trip, so 37s is perfect for my application. I had installed 4.88 on 35s and now 37s. And the rig seems to run better on 4.88 with 37s than it was with 35s, speedo is almost back to stock within 2mph.

 

[Zdeech]

@Zdeech.

That is a good overview of how the 4.56 worked for you. I am pretty low in elevation and have few hills. I should not have much of an issue if I stay with 33s. Something is nagging me about 33s vs 35s. I still have awhile to decide and research the benefits of 33s vs 35s. I might decide 35s for mud and Central WI sand. There is plenty of it. After I drive the LC stock for a year I'll pull the trigger on the tires, gearing and lockers.

You might be absolutely rightD

@Zdeech.

That is a good overview of how the 4.56 worked for you. I am pretty low in elevation and have few hills. I should not have much of an issue if I stay with 33s. Something is nagging me about 33s vs 35s. I still have awhile to decide and research the benefits of 33s vs 35s. I might decide 35s for mud and Central WI sand. There is plenty of it. After I drive the LC stock for a year I'll pull the trigger on the tires, gearing and lockers.

You might be absolutely right!

Driving it for a year sounds like a great plan.

35's would do better in mud and sand than 33's would for sure!

 

[Zdeech]

yeah 4.56 is of no use for me...i use it for occasional rock crawl and camping, fishing trip, so 37s is perfect for my application. I had installed 4.88 on 35s and now 37s. And the rig seems to run better on 4.88 with 37s than it was with 35s, speedo is almost back to stock within 2mp

yeah 4.56 is of no use for me...i use it for occasional rock crawl and camping, fishing trip, so 37s is perfect for my application. I had installed 4.88 on 35s and now 37s. And the rig seems to run better on 4.88 with 37s than it was with 35s, speedo is almost back to stock within 2mph.

If you are into rock crawling, that totally makes sense to have 37's. Mentioning fishing and camping in that same sentence made me laugh though. I guess you won't have to be bothered by sharing your backwoods campsite with anyone driving a subaru!

Your rig looks awesome. How do you pull off being de-smogged in Los Angeles?

 

[Marco Lau]

If you are into rock crawling, that totally makes sense to have 37's. Mentioning fishing and camping in that same sentence made me laugh though. I guess you won't have to be bothered by sharing your backwoods campsite with anyone driving a subaru!

Your rig looks awesome. How do you pull off being de-smogged in Los Angeles?

No, we only do dispersed style camping....only way to do it. Desmog in California...i will not make any further comment...

 

[lt1fire]

My wife @CatskillsRunner and I are joining the 80 series fray again….

08/1991 (MY1992) FJ80.

Picked it up from Northern New Mexico and of course had to make a pit stop to my old stomping grounds….

View attachment 2689494

Lots of restorative work coming up on this survivor. Future plans (once 3F-E or the A440F craps the bed) will be a 2UZ swap.

2fe build dude

 

[BassCruiser80]

Thank you, my 91 was bone stock 1 owner from Arizona when i got her, and have done the transformation slowly by myself. Started with a 3" lift on 33s, 35s and now 37s. 4.88 is perfect for it...but could could probably benefit from 5.29 more for towing or pulling steep grades. It has front and rear ARB air lockers which works flawlessly since after upgrading to stainless air lines...Desmog and advanced timing is probably the biggest performance gain other than keeping up with maintenance and such. I can't remember. but it pulls much stronger now the way it sits than when i first got her...probably because most of the solenoids and vacuum lines were on in bad condition. The cooling is probably the most important upgrade for it since the motor makes alot of excessive heat and retains alot due to all cast iron block design....for the most part, the stock cooling is adequate for putting around town, but once u get bumpers, sliders, skids and such, you will want to upgrade cooling not soon after.View attachment 2699211

Hey Marco any shop recommendations for regearing? In and around LA?

 

[Marco Lau]

Hey Marco any shop recommendations for regearing? In and around LA?

RPM

 

[Icecreampaintjb]

Hello fellow 3fe chads. First post on any forum on here at all. Have been driving this 92 3fe cruiser daily for over a year with no serious issues until now. I come to you immediately off the bat with an issue.

It's somewhat hard to describe the sound it's developed in what I assume is near the front of the engine. Like a rythmic grinding when it hits higher revs. This happens in park, neutral, and for the first few gear changes and it builds to an almost uncomfortable volume under acceleration before gear changes, (which I should note are usually pretty smooth). I have no idea when this actually originated and all that's been done in the year I've had it was a fuel pump change, fuel filter change, plugs, wires and distributor cap+ rotor, fluids and a battery lead thing within the last 2mo to solve a brief stalling issue due to it losing connection. Could the stalling have caused this? Seems strange given these engines were practically designed to stall out. If I had to place the origin of the grinding, id say driver's side front of engine. Possibly alternator area although I've never heard one make this sound before.

it is still drivable but it's starting to freak me out thinking it's bottom of the engine stuff or a trans issue telling me it's about to commit seppuku.

What's the best way to link short vids on here? Would help for context I'm sure.


Also, Hi!

 

[Sleeve Sleevens]

Hello fellow 3fe chads. First post on any forum on here at all. Have been driving this 92 3fe cruiser daily for over a year with no serious issues until now. I come to you immediately off the bat with an issue.

It's somewhat hard to describe the sound it's developed in what I assume is near the front of the engine. Like a rythmic grinding when it hits higher revs. This happens in park, neutral, and for the first few gear changes and it builds to an almost uncomfortable volume under acceleration before gear changes, (which I should note are usually pretty smooth). I have no idea when this actually originated and all that's been done in the year I've had it was a fuel pump change, fuel filter change, plugs, wires and distributor cap+ rotor, fluids and a battery lead thing within the last 2mo to solve a brief stalling issue due to it losing connection. Could the stalling have caused this? Seems strange given these engines were practically designed to stall out. If I had to place the origin of the grinding, id say driver's side front of engine. Possibly alternator area although I've never heard one make this sound before.

it is still drivable but it's starting to freak me out thinking it's bottom of the engine stuff or a trans issue telling me it's about to commit seppuku.

What's the best way to link short vids on here? Would help for context I'm sure.


Also, Hi!

One thought... My bro had a motor mount bad on a different car that every rev of the engine caused it to twist and lift up which made the fan touch the shroud

other thoughts ... Maybe ur fan clutch is toast?

maybe a bad bearing in a pulley ?

 

[vsatking]

Check you power steering pump. They can make a grinding sound when going bad. Not sure if it applies to the 80s. On my 100 I used a cap full of Downey fabric softener to quiet it up. It did go bad a year later.

Other then that it would be the usual suspects that I am sure you have already tested.

Best way to podt a video is on YouTube then drop in a link. Video would help a lot.

 

[Icecreampaintjb]

Check you power steering pump. They can make a grinding sound when going bad. Not sure if it applies to the 80s. On my 100 I used a cap full of Downey fabric softener to quiet it up. It did go bad a year later.

Other then that it would be the usual suspects that I am sure you have already tested.

Best way to podt a video is on YouTube then drop in a link. Video would help a lot.

Cool I'll film one tomorrow and link it for you guys. Can't find anything remotely similar online but at the same time I also have no idea what's causing it, so I'm just running through yt vids of potential issues looking for the sound.

 

[Icecreampaintjb]

Alright, here's a link to a video of the grinding issue. It's annoying harder to pick up in this than it is in person but you can make it out clearly near the end of the vid. Again, this is only a high rpm issue, also very consistent and replicable every time. Thanks in advance.

 

[vsatking]

You alternator is moving a lot. I would check that first. Alternator should have no movement.

Good video...it is hard to pinpoint the sound. I would also get a stethoscope to help isolate component by component.

 

[Icecreampaintjb]

You alternator is moving a lot. I would check that first. Alternator should have no movement.

Good video...it is hard to pinpoint the sound. I would also get a stethoscope to help isolate component by component.

Noticed that too. The video actually isolated the vibrations there and made it more noticable. Good idea on the stethoscope. If it is the alternator, what's the best way to source a new one? I understand there's a compatibility difference on the 3fe between 91-92 but I really don't know much about the alternators or if there's a known upgrade people have done.

 

[Sleeve Sleevens]

Alright, here's a link to a video of the grinding issue. It's annoying harder to pick up in this than it is in person but you can make it out clearly near the end of the vid. Again, this is only a high rpm issue, also very consistent and replicable every time. Thanks in advance.

Didn’t see all the replies but alternator looks loose to me

 

[vsatking]

With the whole alternator moving. Check the bolts first. Just get in there and look around. Likely missing a bolt.

 

[rghouse]

Wow, this is pretty wild! I haven't been closely following the 80 series market recently. Those last two rigs you posted were in very nice shape, but wow....$25k and $20k sales prices. Things escalated quickly.
I bought my rust free (NM / TX) '91 FJ80 - unmolested with 166k - in spring 2016 locally off craigslist for $5k. I was happy to have found it, but they weren't impossible to find at the time and I thought I was overpaying by $500 to $1000. A friend of mine thought the price was getting crazy because he had picked up a '92 FJ80 6 or 7 years prior to that for around $3k!

Ya, I got in on the 3FE for 3k deal in 2016. Mine was from out of state, had fading paint, and needed a cooling system reboot ($1500), but ran and drove fine under 80 degrees F. Interior and body were just about immaculate, and it had 168k verified miles.

this price hike really happened fast, hard to fathom. The 80 series is hard to beat, and the old school feel of the 3FE really makes it special. Love my 80 and going strong at 210k now.

as long as we are talking gears… I will add that there is a transfer case regear set (over/under) sitting in my shop waiting to go in. I too have stuck with 33s and the ratio (4.56ish) should suit my needs of over landing and trail.