Registry 3FE Owners Check-In (4 Viewers)

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Hoping for some diagnostic help, sorry if it seems elementary I’m new to wrenching.

Nothing recently has changed on the cruiser, have been daily driving for a couple months.

2 days ago the cel came on for a brief second, then off, then on, then off for the rest of my trip. No other signs.

Yesterday I warm up, no issues. Get about a quarter a mile down the road and it starts to stumble. Go to push the accelerator to get through an intersection and it dies. Turning the key kicks the starter and cranks, but never turns over. Tow it home.

Today, starts fine. Warms up, and instead of the rpm’s going down as it warms, the rpm’s increase. When I push the accelerator the engine tries to die. I turned off the key, waited a couple minutes, and it won’t turn over but cranks. No cel during this entire process, other than when they key is “on” like normal.

My initial thought was fuel related, but after today I’m not sure. Any thoughts on what to start diving into?
Fuseable link. Wanna know for sure start her up and wiggle wiring harnesses once you get to the battery BAM! Same christmas tree lights happened to me and i pulled over told my wife to give me a thumbs up when the CEL light would flicker on and off as i wiggled wires. Obviously she didnt run me over because im typing this.
 
I noticed today that the wires to my “all” vacuum switching valve are severed. Anyone know what symptoms may arise from a disabled VSV?

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I be
That is on my short list. Going to do a fair bit of research to see how to do 8t right.

Do you have a pic that is easy to post?
I believe when you DESMOG the 3FE. the VSV will render inoperable anyways...once the vacuum lines are pulled. you can use BB inside the vacuum lines to keep it stealth, i just leave the entire nest as is....
 
My CEL has came on and then off again every morning this week on my 3 mile commute to work. (lucky I know)
I've had a bad isle since I picked up the rig 5 months ago, but thought it was just from old ass vac lines. Could I be experiencing fusable link problems as well?
I haven't jumped my port to see what it is yet. I checked out my oxygen sensor last night before it got dark and it didn't look too crappy compared to other things I've replaced thus far on my 80 series journey. TIA.
 
Ok. Gotnit. I don't have smog in my state so I am going for a clean and efficient look. 3fe already has enough coolant hoses to help me confused:)
If you look up Lerms Customs he has a delete kit. If you want the extra bling you can order a wits end key chain as well. Mine is desmogged completely. I wouldn’t say it runs better or gets better mileage but it’s less stuff to go wrong and if you get the right muffler you’ll sound like a diesel when you get on it.
 
My CEL has came on and then off again every morning this week on my 3 mile commute to work. (lucky I know)
I've had a bad isle since I picked up the rig 5 months ago, but thought it was just from old ass vac lines. Could I be experiencing fusable link problems as well?
I haven't jumped my port to see what it is yet. I checked out my oxygen sensor last night before it got dark and it didn't look too crappy compared to other things I've replaced thus far on my 80 series journey. TIA.
Jumped my ports when I got home last night, didn't get any stored codes.
Checked my harness by the EGR and the loom was removed, and one if not more have been cut and reconnected. Not sure if something happened from the PO or what.
Seems like I'm running rich because my MPG is down.
Throttle line seemed to have a lot of slack in it. I couldn't find anything disconnected or visibly cracked under the hood though.
 
If you look up Lerms Customs he has a delete kit. If you want the extra bling you can order a wits end key chain as well. Mine is desmogged completely. I wouldn’t say it runs better or gets better mileage but it’s less stuff to go wrong and if you get the right muffler you’ll sound like a diesel when you get on it.
I did get the egr delete kit (not installed). I am going to try to remove as much as possible. A key chain would be nice too. Just put a new exhaust on it. The shop wouldn't leave off the CATs. Ill eventually find a way to permanently remove them. It does sound so smooth and quiet with them on though. If I can pick up any noticeable power by removing then they'll come off.
 
I did get the egr delete kit (not installed). I am going to try to remove as much as possible. A key chain would be nice too. Just put a new exhaust on it. The shop wouldn't leave off the CATs. Ill eventually find a way to permanently remove them. It does sound so smooth and quiet with them on though. If I can pick up any noticeable power by removing then they'll come off.
You wonT find any more power as long as your cats are flowing properly. A frind helped m remove the cats.
 
My CEL has came on and then off again every morning this week on my 3 mile commute to work. (lucky I know)
I've had a bad isle since I picked up the rig 5 months ago, but thought it was just from old ass vac lines. Could I be experiencing fusable link problems as well?
I haven't jumped my port to see what it is yet. I checked out my oxygen sensor last night before it got dark and it didn't look too crappy compared to other things I've replaced thus far on my 80 series journey. TIA.
I would say ur egr isnt working correctly if u have a bad idle and ur CEL light comes on even after you remove negative side of the battery to reset it. Do the vacuum lines one at a time and chase the blockage back to the throttle body (most likely clogged on the two small vents at the top). Easy fix is to remove the intake hose before the throttle body, hold a sewing needle in a pair of needle nose pliers poke the two holes open and spray cleaner in thru the top vents.
The fuseable link issue is more electrical related, like blinky dash lights or weird gremlins, on mine the D aka “drive light” never came on, then eventually the whole dash would flicker as I drove over bumps.
 
I would say ur egr isnt working correctly if u have a bad idle and ur CEL light comes on even after you remove negative side of the battery to reset it. Do the vacuum lines one at a time and chase the blockage back to the throttle body (most likely clogged on the two small vents at the top). Easy fix is to remove the intake hose before the throttle body, hold a sewing needle in a pair of needle nose pliers poke the two holes open and spray cleaner in thru the top vents.
The fuseable link issue is more electrical related, like blinky dash lights or weird gremlins, on mine the D aka “drive light” never came on, then eventually the whole dash would flicker as I drove over bumps.
Yea my D light doesn't come on either, but all the others work. It does seem to flicker when I'm not on pavement.
I'll check that when I have some time this week. I was thinking about replacing the vac lines around that area because they don't take much to pull off.
I even blew one off when I first drove it home.

thanks for the heads up about the EGR I'll look up some threads here about cleaning it up. I'm sure someone has a write up.
 
My CEL has came on and then off again every morning this week on my 3 mile commute to work. (lucky I know)
I've had a bad isle since I picked up the rig 5 months ago, but thought it was just from old ass vac lines. Could I be experiencing fusable link problems as well?
I haven't jumped my port to see what it is yet. I checked out my oxygen sensor last night before it got dark and it didn't look too crappy compared to other things I've replaced thus far on my 80 series journey. TIA.
Yep sounds like the fuseable link is about ready to go and the EGR is not opening up when it should. Kinda related to see whats going on with your charging system And something i have on all my vehicles is a USB & voltage display plug, to see exactly what ur alternater is putting out. You can even see battery voltage before you start the engine. This is a cool little gadget will give you a quick diagnosis of you electrical system if your on the road and left ur voltmeter at home.

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Yep sounds like the fuseable link is about ready to go and the EGR is not opening up when it should. Kinda related to see whats going on with your charging system And something i have on all my vehicles is a USB & voltage display plug, to see exactly what ur alternater is putting out. You can even see battery voltage before you start the engine. This is a cool little gadget will give you a quick diagnosis of you electrical system if your on the road and left ur voltmeter at home.

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I guess I'll just order a new one. it looks old so it may just be time anyway.
my battery and alternator are brand new, I had to replace those immediately after I got it home because it had been trickle charging at the POs house for a while.

last night I tried to push the vac lines onto their mating connectors further.
I'm going to pick up some new tubing this week to try and get a majority of the intake and EGR stuff relined.
 
I guess I'll just order a new one. it looks old so it may just be time anyway.
my battery and alternator are brand new, I had to replace those immediately after I got it home because it had been trickle charging at the POs house for a while.

last night I tried to push the vac lines onto their mating connectors further.
I'm going to pick up some new tubing this week to try and get a majority of the intake and EGR stuff relined.
This weekend I replaced ~80% of the vac lines starting with the EGR and throttle body lines and moving out.
A lot of the lines were cracked at the ends and came off with almost any fight. I pulled the negative battery lead to reset everything.
Adjusted the throttle cable to take out the slack but not tight. I got the keeper nut as far as I could then had to throw a zip tie on the pedal side of the wire as another spacer.
I did not adjust the kick down cable, but when I took it out for a 20 min drive to re learn the EFI stuff it sounded SOO much smoother, and was a lot more responsive on the road.
 
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Here's a picture of "the twins"! Coz one FJ80 just ain't enuff! The real one is pretty much bone stock with 234000 miles (US truck). I did the front birfs awhile ago & slid some Dobinson suspension under it a year or so ago. It's not a daily driver anymore but still sees regular softroad offroad in season. Still a very solid & dependable rig.
 

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