3FE Head and 2F block (2FE) build questions (1 Viewer)

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Hey, @Randy88FJ62 . Just curious, if you ever did get a quote for your head work what did it come to? I am contemplating building a 2fe on a budget and am just trying to figure out all of the costs. Also, does anyone know what it costs to have your block balanced? If I do this then I am going to keep the stock 2f cam, the only block work I might have done is to have it balanced, still trying to figure out if a balancing is worthwhile though.
 
Balancing is definitely worth it. The long stroke of 2f means it will vibrate like a bad boy if not balanced.

No clue on the pricing. But even a static balance will be better than nothing.

The stock cam dies at a fairly low rpm. If you go to the trouble of balancing, then a aftermarket cam will wake the upper end up considerably.
 
I spent five hours with a friend diagnosing my truck before giving up and installing a new engine.

It ended up being the 4" piece of fuel hose connecting the internal fuel pump to the hard lines that exit the tank. The fuel hose had deteriorated and cracked open on the side giving me virtually no fuel pressure.

I swapped in a new fuel pump and new piece of proper hose and now I don't need an engine. :D

So I can't help ya on the costs of getting a head rebuilt.
 
With the engine apart, the cost of balancing is relatively cheap for the improvement it makes in a 2F. I think it added a couple hundred to mine, but I had the FW, clutch and PP balanced as well, and block align bored. Really makes if rev so much smoother.
 
Balancing is definitely worth it. The long stroke of 2f means it will vibrate like a bad boy if not balanced.

No clue on the pricing. But even a static balance will be better than nothing.

The stock cam dies at a fairly low rpm. If you go to the trouble of balancing, then a aftermarket cam will wake the upper end up considerably.
Thanks.
Yea, after reading a bunch of old 2fe threads I came to realize that the cam reground to 262* will also be less prone to detonation with the increased compression. All of this is still in the speculation and planning stage, if it does end up happening it will not be for another 1-2 years. What I really need to do is talk to some people and get some recommendations for a good machine shop in my area. Then I can get a better idea of what it is going to cost.
 
I spent five hours with a friend diagnosing my truck before giving up and installing a new engine.

It ended up being the 4" piece of fuel hose connecting the internal fuel pump to the hard lines that exit the tank. The fuel hose had deteriorated and cracked open on the side giving me virtually no fuel pressure.

I swapped in a new fuel pump and new piece of proper hose and now I don't need an engine. :D

So I can't help ya on the costs of getting a head rebuilt.

Whoa, suddenly I'm kinda lost, or maybe missed something important along the way. I thought you started out by saying your old motor had lost compression in all cylinders and you were considering rebuilding it or swapping in a new block and head. Are you now saying the problem was a crack in a fuel hose inside the gas tank?
 
I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would reach and see if anyone knows if a 2F timing cover will fit on a 3FE block? The 3FE cover is NLA and the 2F is still available. Thanks.
They are the same as far as mounting, but the 3FE cover has an extension at the bottom for an attachment point for a coolant or steering hose that crossed under the engine at that point.
You can certainly run the 2F cover.
 
The Timing Cover is also Discontinued for the 2F - I tried to get one. But any TC will fit 58-92, I believe. The small attachment at the bottom was added as support for the hard coolant pipe for 10/86 on.


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So any other custom modifications that I haven't thought of?

Here's my list:

2F block
2F push rods
3FE head
2F water pump
reducer fitting from water pump to main cooling hose (2F water pump has larger diameter output compared to 3FE water pump)
modified upper fan shroud (2F water pump sits 3/4" higher than 3FE water pump)
clean/rebuild injectors
Head Gasket Kit
modify/weld up pcv valve on 2F side cover, use 3Fe valve cover.
extend exhaust.
Engine mount to AC custom bracket
AC to PS custom bracket
Ø3/8 steel pipe used as spacer for alternator
1" X 1/4" flat steel plate to spacer the smog pump
ilder pulley (large belt) mounting bracket must be trimmed
block off coolant hoses from 3FE thermostat housing that used to go to 3FE water pump. (2F water pump doesn’t have enough outlets)
This may be a catastrophically stupid question. Would this work on a F155/ F.5 engine? The thinking goes a 2F valve cover will bolt onto an F.5 and a 3FE cover will bolt onto a 2F. Sooooooo 3FE top on F.5?
 
This may be a catastrophically stupid question. Would this work on a F155/ F.5 engine? The thinking goes a 2F valve cover will bolt onto an F.5 and a 3FE cover will bolt onto a 2F. Sooooooo 3FE top on F.5?
Oiling isn't an issue with the F.5 so yes, it should.
 
Hey all, does anyone know of a definitive guide or step by step instructions on converting to 2FE? I have a 60 series 2F block and want to add the 3FE. I also want to desmog it.
 
Hey all, does anyone know of a definitive guide or step by step instructions on converting to 2FE? I have a 60 series 2F block and want to add the 3FE. I also want to desmog it.

Look in the 40-series sub-forum also; there are at least a couple of 2FE build threads over there.
 

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