3B sputtering, power loss. (1 Viewer)

[Profibus]

This seems to be an intermittent issue. Only happens in 4th gear, going up a hill with the rpm down low and the engine is working itself.

Truck will sputter and I will lose power, barely enough to maintain any speed. I had some exhaust work done a few months ago, could this have anything to do with the manifold? Manifold separating from the down pipe maybe? I haven't been able to replicate it at rest or high idle with similar rpm.

When this happens, I can downshift to 3rd to get me revs up, then shift back to 4th and the problem goes away. Any ideas on what I can check? I recently drained my sedimentor and changed the belts. Fuel filter was done about 2 months ago. That's the only engine work I've done since the exhaust work.

 

[duncanrm]

It really sounds fuel related.. I would bypass your sedimenter as the first step. The switch back to 3rd would dramatically increase RPMs and potentially overcome a minor amount of air that may been introduced.. The factory sedimenters are effective but they do rust out and they do require disassembly for proper cleaning every 100,000klms or so, draining them is not enough for a proper clean.

Your recent exhaust work would not be the cause of this.

 

[Profibus]

An update:

This afternoon on my way home, approx. 20°C. The truck basically lost all power down to 2nd gear. I dropped it down to 1st and mashed the throttle, which cleared the issue. The problem kept coming back in some mild traffic congestion. I pulled off and bypassed the sedimenter, and the problem has seemed to stop. I will keep it bypassed for a few days to see if that was the true cause, but I suspect you're right duncanrm. I'll be looking in to either an oem replacement or an aftermarket solution. I had a peak inside and it isn't worth cleaning.

 

[duncanrm]

Fingers crossed.

I replaced mine with a combined filter/separator. Glass sight bowl on bottom, 20micron filter. I change the filter about every 10,000klms and the factory filter is still in place which I change every 5000klms.

 

[bcsteel]

I had a 3b with a similar problem. The sediment bowl had a hairline crack. Toss it and go with something else

 

[Profibus]

What's everyone's recommendation for a replacement unit? I've done some searching but there's so many options it's a little overwhelming.

 

[duncanrm]

I use this style of filter/water separator.. 20micron filter, engine bay mounted.

 

[doug720]

I suspect fuel related also. Good advice above.

In addition, check the banjo bolt where the fuel pipe attaches to the injection pump. Inside the banjo bolt is a small screw in strainer/filter. This can clog with debris and restrict fuel flow.

 

[bcsteel]

Something like this

Fuel Filter [D 23300-58080] - $269.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

would be kinda nice. Appears to be a euro spec 3b filter. Kinda pricey with the Canadian peso as it is. I’ll phone the dealership up here with the part number and see if they can get it. I’m not a huge fan of the racor style. Found the plastic bowls can get hairline cracks and then provide the same results.

 

[brownbear]

SO I have a few thoughts on this. You may also have some issues inside your tank with a lot of crud.

But on the filters.

I think if I was replace mine it needs to be similar and on the frame. It's a low point and it's important to collect water there before it gets to the engine. Water is heavier than diesel and collects low. If you push it to the filter in the engine bay, Suck it there, it's not going to separate as easily. So I want it in the same location as OEM.

The height needs to be short like it is now so it doesn't get snagged.

It should be all metal in design, as rocks go up there.

I want a bottom drain plug and if I want a filter body to unscrew where a paper filter is inside to change.

Just a brief search I saw this. RACOR 120RMAM2 Spin-On Diesel Fuel Filter/Water Separator, 2 Micron | West Marine

I also don't feel we need 2 micron filters. Like my link showed. 20 microns is probably okay. My engine filter is 25 microns. And you don't want to restrict fuel flow too much. Our fuel system is more rugged and can handle more crap. Built for africa and bush re-filling.

Not saying it's what I would buy. But if I was replacing the filter with something this expensive I would consider removing the fuel tank and getting it cleaned out. It may have serious issues.

 

[tornio]

i have this one :

and the replacement cartdrige is only About 30 euros , in the states maybe cheaper !

racor is a good company for diesel water separator , don't buy 2 micron version is to much for a pre-filter buy a 20 micron cartdrige
the factory diesel filter is 5 micron

 

[jim land]

Simple to install on the frame

 

[roscoFJ73]

What's everyone's recommendation for a replacement unit? I've done some searching but there's so many options it's a little overwhelming.

Yes there are a lot of options. You have to look at things like like flow rate. Even a 3B can use a rate of 40 litres an hour for short bursts.
A delphi/lucas/cav 296 set up is cheap to buy and the replacement filters are very common and only $6-7 ea and they come in dual set up if you want. And you can add water alarms etc if you want.

 

[Profibus]

Thanks for all the info everyone! I have my new filter on order