- Thread starter
- #21
Not sure I agree that the force on the standard weld plan is pulling anything together: The standard way is to weld the outside edge of the ring to the inner edge of the lip... a shearing force on the joint (?) if you were to try to pull the ring straight away from the wheel.
That is not the force being applied to the weld on ring in general (right?) GENERALLY the force, it seems to me, would be perpendicular in road use and in extreme off camber side loading would be either:
- pushing the bead inward (the problem the beadlock is supposed to address) and then the ring is being pushed into the wheel and should not be a problem for ANY style weld.
- pushing the bead outward, and in this case yes, the force is acting to try to pull the welds apart.
Then there is the case where the outer ring slams into a rock and tried to transfer that force to the inner ring... in that case you certainly want a belt and suspenders weld... both inner and outer?!?!?!?
So yes, I guess in the case where either weld would be tested (when the bead is getting pushed away from the wheel) the force on "my" inner welds will be to try to pull them apart.
I have only done the one wheel and am trying to decide if it is worth continuing down this road, the goal of which was to find a better way to air seal the ring rather than in playing around with an alternate weld method. Maybe I'll do a conventional top weld on the next one to try an see how I feel about it. I of course don't want to stray from the accepted path if it is not at least as "good" and the usual way.
That is not the force being applied to the weld on ring in general (right?) GENERALLY the force, it seems to me, would be perpendicular in road use and in extreme off camber side loading would be either:
- pushing the bead inward (the problem the beadlock is supposed to address) and then the ring is being pushed into the wheel and should not be a problem for ANY style weld.
- pushing the bead outward, and in this case yes, the force is acting to try to pull the welds apart.
Then there is the case where the outer ring slams into a rock and tried to transfer that force to the inner ring... in that case you certainly want a belt and suspenders weld... both inner and outer?!?!?!?
So yes, I guess in the case where either weld would be tested (when the bead is getting pushed away from the wheel) the force on "my" inner welds will be to try to pull them apart.
I have only done the one wheel and am trying to decide if it is worth continuing down this road, the goal of which was to find a better way to air seal the ring rather than in playing around with an alternate weld method. Maybe I'll do a conventional top weld on the next one to try an see how I feel about it. I of course don't want to stray from the accepted path if it is not at least as "good" and the usual way.