38" Swampers + ProComp Wheels + DIY Beadlocks

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Not sure I agree that the force on the standard weld plan is pulling anything together: The standard way is to weld the outside edge of the ring to the inner edge of the lip... a shearing force on the joint (?) if you were to try to pull the ring straight away from the wheel.
That is not the force being applied to the weld on ring in general (right?) GENERALLY the force, it seems to me, would be perpendicular in road use and in extreme off camber side loading would be either:
- pushing the bead inward (the problem the beadlock is supposed to address) and then the ring is being pushed into the wheel and should not be a problem for ANY style weld.
- pushing the bead outward, and in this case yes, the force is acting to try to pull the welds apart.

Then there is the case where the outer ring slams into a rock and tried to transfer that force to the inner ring... in that case you certainly want a belt and suspenders weld... both inner and outer?!?!?!?

So yes, I guess in the case where either weld would be tested (when the bead is getting pushed away from the wheel) the force on "my" inner welds will be to try to pull them apart.

I have only done the one wheel and am trying to decide if it is worth continuing down this road, the goal of which was to find a better way to air seal the ring rather than in playing around with an alternate weld method. Maybe I'll do a conventional top weld on the next one to try an see how I feel about it. I of course don't want to stray from the accepted path if it is not at least as "good" and the usual way.
 
Better pic of the full welds, roughly one bead per bolt hole...1.5" each-ish

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If all of the rings are welded to the rims with that much weld, you're most likely good. I would have finished the welds, but that's fine.

I don't think you'll lose any strength with this method. It might actually be stronger than a top weld because you don't have to grind any of the weld away, assuming your penetration is good.
 
And in retrospect I agree that I should fully weld - and I will on the other wheels... the good part is I don't need to worry about the collection of stitch welds needing to be air tight.
 
I think I have a pretty good idea for how to expand upon the wheel hub concept... hint, it involves a fully built rear axle, a drill, and a ziptie.
 
gotta have the zip tie- it won't work without one...
 
Why don't u wanna weld from top? Also the bottom weld could interfere wirh the nut and washer when u go to tighten it.
 
My top welded diy beadlock been holding air no problem.
 
I'm now just wondering where the pictures of the wheels and tires on his 60 are :flipoff2:
 
Pics will come when the project is done. Family plus running my own business somehow gets in he way of Cruiser projects. I have 3 done except for 45 degree valve stems (waiting for delivery). Hope to get the last 2 welded up this weekend.
 
TSL.jpg




I got 2 rings bolted down (20 ft/lbs) and the other wheels slipped into the tires today. Evening projects for this week will be to bolt down the other 3 rings. Added some black RTV to the underside of the bead surface where it sits on the welded-on ring. That part of the Swamper is very rough and I wanted to try to avoid leaks there.
I'm going to use bead sealer/glue for the backside bead (being a belt and suspenders kinda guy)
 
Sorry to report: leak city.... my little experiment is currently in failure mode. 2 tires leaked down all the way overnight. I'll be pulling a ring back off to see if I can see the failure point (I can see where the air is getting through the weld - soap bubbles)
 

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