Builds 3 days and 3300 miles later (1 Viewer)

[buckroseau]

did'nt you tint your SEM to match the color of the underside? what is involved in doing that?

Yes, I did tint it to match.....matches abosolutely perfect.


You goto your local auto parts store and ask them to mix up a gallon of single stage ureathane in the color of your choice.......but, then ask them to leave out the binder.....This is where they look at you real funny.


A gallon of single stage ureathane paint with out the binder is about a pint of color. The instructions are in the SEM kit, so you can bring it to the store if you have any questions...they should know what to do.

If I remember corretly it's 8 parts catalylized SEM to 1 part color.....or 8 parts un-cataylized SEM to 1 part color...not sure, can't remember right now. I'll read the can tomorrow and post that also.

Matt

 

[merbesfield]

what type paint do you shot for your body work single stage or two?

 

[buckroseau]

Instructions off the back of the can on SEM's #39650 bedliner kit.

Pic of shutz gun, 1/2" tip.....a must!!


Matt

 

[buckroseau]

Shutz gun, 1/2" tip.

 

[buckroseau]

what type paint do you shot for your body work single stage or two?

I spray single stage ureathane paints on the frame, frame parts, engine parts, misc. brackets....etc.....

As far as the body itself, only base/clear.


Matt

 

[TJDIV]

well git at it man...

 

[Poser]

Green might fly in about a week. Be gone this weekend, but might be ready to spray the cab and fenders the week after....well see of course.


Yes, we can put the cab back on after we swap the springs in the lv......although the time you get here you might be helping me with the box

Matt

Careful....I may be putting a cot up in your garge sooner than you think....

 

[apeterson]

Let me know also... I am no help, but I got a sleeping bag and would love to come up and watch what you guys are working on!

 

[merbesfield]

metal prer?

I spray single stage ureathane paints on the frame, frame parts, engine parts, misc. brackets....etc.....

As far as the body itself, only base/clear.


Matt

I have been doing a lot of media blasting. My question is before you spray the primer, do you wipe down your parts to get the dust off? do you just hit them with the air gun? do you use a liquid metal prep?

Next question: Once you spray the primer on the metal parts which will be receiving a single stage paint, do you sand the primer before you shoot paint or just shoot paint? what do you do about the metal parts that are pitted from rust? do you wipe those with a thin highly sand-able filler before spraying?

Last question: With regards to your paint booth, when the exhaust fan pulls air out what are you doing on the back side i.e. outside to deal with over-spray? Not sure if you have enough land to where it is not an issue, but I have a parking lot full of cars and trucks to deal with over-spray so I was wondering how to direct the air and what my options might be?

Thanks, Mark

 

[rutbeer]

By the time the exhaust comes out of the booth, isn't the mist dry?

 

[merbesfield]

Paint booth exhaust

By the time the exhaust comes out of the booth, isn't the mist dry?

I don't know that is why I am posting the question? I have never built a paint booth before nor have I ever painted an entire car. My mechanic and a buddy of mine who paints houses both have their concerns that is why I have posted the question to find out for sure.

 

[buckroseau]

1. I have been doing a lot of media blasting. My question is before you spray the primer, do you wipe down your parts to get the dust off? do you just hit them with the air gun? do you use a liquid metal prep?

2. Next question: Once you spray the primer on the metal parts which will be receiving a single stage paint, do you sand the primer before you shoot paint or just shoot paint? what do you do about the metal parts that are pitted from rust? do you wipe those with a thin highly sand-able filler before spraying?

3. Last question: With regards to your paint booth, when the exhaust fan pulls air out what are you doing on the back side i.e. outside to deal with over-spray? Not sure if you have enough land to where it is not an issue, but I have a parking lot full of cars and trucks to deal with over-spray so I was wondering how to direct the air and what my options might be?

Thanks, Mark

Hi Mark,

1. After I've media blasted and I'm going to be going to primer/paint within days I do not wipe them down with any metal prep. I do hang them and blow them off while I run a tack cloth in front of it. I make sure to blow pretty much every square inch while wiping it down with the cloth. This actually sounds time consuming, but goes very quickly. If they were to sit around for weeks then I might wipe them down with DX330 and repeat the same steps above after that.

2. If you spray PPG's DP line of epoxy primer I believe you have 72 hours to shoot the topcoat (the paint) without sanding. Once you pass that 72 hour threshold then you have to scuff up the primer with a scotch brite pad or fine sand paper to get a mechanical bond between the paint and primer. If you shoot the topcoat within the 72 hour window the DP primers are designed to chemically bond/x-link to the topcoat....no sanding required. I usually shoot the paint an hour after I spray the primer.

If you have pitted parts and need to sand that is a totally different story.....I spray 1 coat of epoxy primer and then shoot 2 coats of sandable ureathane primer an hour later. Then next day the sanding begins, sometimes several coats of sandable primer are required, and sanded out or filler. After your done with your body work (whatever is required) I usally shoot a coat of epoxy over the top prior to paint, you can even do that after wet sanding right before you paint.

3. I have enough land where it is not an issue, but my I can paint the trees about 30 feet away Also, my neighbors a few acres away can always tell when I'm painting by the smell ;p I initially set up my booth so I could slide in replaceable airfilters on the inside, in fact I think in the pics you can see each opening.....each opening take 3 filters. The problem I had is that the filters fill up with overspray fairly quickly. It's a little tougher on the fan and stuff because the blades build up with overspray, but I don't have to keep changing filters constantly now. If the overspray builds up on the fan to much I'll just start chipping the big stuff off. But, if you have cars a few feet away.....you may have a problem and might have to filter it. You might also want to design it similiar to mine, but then have the fan on the top of the plenum and vent vertically out the roof????


Hope this helps and sorry about the late reply....was up in the woods for 4 days at my hunting cabin deer hunting, just got back this evening......

Matt

 

[merbesfield]

paint booth help

Hi Mark,

1. After I've media blasted and I'm going to be going to primer/paint within days I do not wipe them down with any metal prep. I do hang them and blow them off while I run a tack cloth in front of it. I make sure to blow pretty much every square inch while wiping it down with the cloth. This actually sounds time consuming, but goes very quickly. If they were to sit around for weeks then I might wipe them down with DX330 and repeat the same steps above after that.

2. If you spray PPG's DP line of epoxy primer I believe you have 72 hours to shoot the topcoat (the paint) without sanding. Once you pass that 72 hour threshold then you have to scuff up the primer with a scotch brite pad or fine sand paper to get a mechanical bond between the paint and primer. If you shoot the topcoat within the 72 hour window the DP primers are designed to chemically bond/x-link to the topcoat....no sanding required. I usually shoot the paint an hour after I spray the primer.

If you have pitted parts and need to sand that is a totally different story.....I spray 1 coat of epoxy primer and then shoot 2 coats of sandable ureathane primer an hour later. Then next day the sanding begins, sometimes several coats of sandable primer are required, and sanded out or filler. After your done with your body work (whatever is required) I usally shoot a coat of epoxy over the top prior to paint, you can even do that after wet sanding right before you paint.

3. I have enough land where it is not an issue, but my I can paint the trees about 30 feet away Also, my neighbors a few acres away can always tell when I'm painting by the smell ;p I initially set up my booth so I could slide in replaceable airfilters on the inside, in fact I think in the pics you can see each opening.....each opening take 3 filters. The problem I had is that the filters fill up with overspray fairly quickly. It's a little tougher on the fan and stuff because the blades build up with overspray, but I don't have to keep changing filters constantly now. If the overspray builds up on the fan to much I'll just start chipping the big stuff off. But, if you have cars a few feet away.....you may have a problem and might have to filter it. You might also want to design it similiar to mine, but then have the fan on the top of the plenum and vent vertically out the roof????


Hope this helps and sorry about the late reply....was up in the woods for 4 days at my hunting cabin deer hunting, just got back this evening......

Matt

Hi Matt,

Yes that helps a great deal. Exhaust will be a problem for me. I was trying to keep the booth simple and have it designed basically exactly as you have yours, but I have the problem with the exhaust. I thought about ducting it along the side of the warehouse and turning the corner where it hopefully would be dry and safe. I am concerned with trying to push air a distance of a approximately 30+ feet. The fan is 4'x4' which would then have to be reduced to down to a manageable duct size for the 30+ feet. I am not an HVAC specialist nor an engineer but I think going from 4'x4' to even 24" dia. pipe would be a squeeze, which would effect the draw of the fan. The initial design was simple, 4'x4' of exhaust fan and approx. 2'x 8' x 2 of intake (left and right of the roll up entry door), similar to yours. I guess the easy thing to do is filter the exhaust and change it often, but that may not work for long.

 

[buckroseau]

I am concerned with trying to push air a distance of a approximately 30+ feet. The fan is 4'x4' which would then have to be reduced to down to a manageable duct size for the 30+ feet. I am not an HVAC specialist nor an engineer but I think going from 4'x4' to even 24" dia. pipe would be a squeeze, which would effect the draw of the fan. The initial design was simple, 4'x4' of exhaust fan and approx. 2'x 8' x 2 of intake (left and right of the roll up entry door), similar to yours. I guess the easy thing to do is filter the exhaust and change it often, but that may not work for long.

I am not an HVAC guy either, but going from 4x4 to 24"....I agree, I think you will have a problem.

I have seen the vertical stacks work very well. You could go through the exterior wall and build the stack on the outside of the buidling? Frame it up and side it with tin or whatever your building has on it now?

Just a thought?

Matt

 

[merbesfield]

exhaust

I am not an HVAC guy either, but going from 4x4 to 24"....I agree, I think you will have a problem.

I have seen the vertical stacks work very well. You could go through the exterior wall and build the stack on the outside of the buidling? Frame it up and side it with tin or whatever your building has on it now?

Just a thought?

Matt

yes, but there goes the whole KISS thing. again
not to worry, it will get sorted out, or I will just give all my company trucks a light dusting of paint each time I spray. Hell they are always so dirty, no one would probably even notice, not my guys thats for sure.

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Matt how thick does the bedliner spray in, and what is the overall consistency of it, soft or fairly hard? Look forward to pics of it in..

 

[MDH33]

Hope this helps and sorry about the late reply....was up in the woods for 4 days at my hunting cabin deer hunting, just got back this evening......

Matt

Wow Matt, nice cabin. It's bigger than my urban Denver dwelling and in a much nicer surroundings. ;p

So, did you bag a buck??

 

[buckroseau]

I had to work this evening so I got about 2 hours on the lpb this morning.

Pretty much applied seam sealer to the locations where it was orginally, but I had to take it out. Pics pretty much say it all. I use masking tape along each side and smooth it out with my finger. I then pull the tape to get a nice clean line with the seam sealer....I think it pretty much looks like factory. Some of the seams had the factory seam sealer still in it further up, I just faded the new stuff into that.

Also had to do some seam sealing on the inside, but didn't get any pics of that. Hoping to start doing some work on the fenders in the next couple days and try to get them up to speed. As I said before I would like to shoot the SEM sauce on the bottom of the fenders the same time I spray the bottom of the cab.

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

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[buckroseau]

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