2UZ-FE Normal Operating Temperature (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rpreme
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- #22
Thanks for the help fellas! It means a lot to me since my LC is a daily driver.
To my findings, I am also missing a condenser fan, which doesn't help my case. I do not see any wiring for it and maybe it was sold without one? Not too sure. Which explains why my AC isn't as cold, and kinda cools when I'm driving.
Anyone got leads to a aftermarket condenser fan kit for the 100? I think LCP discontinued the condenser fan kits for both the 80 and 100 series.
To my findings, I am also missing a condenser fan, which doesn't help my case. I do not see any wiring for it and maybe it was sold without one? Not too sure. Which explains why my AC isn't as cold, and kinda cools when I'm driving.
Anyone got leads to a aftermarket condenser fan kit for the 100? I think LCP discontinued the condenser fan kits for both the 80 and 100 series.
Condenser fan fluid mod?
Did you wash condenser and oil cooler radiators, replace rad cap and thermostat with OEM also?
I'm surprised you're not seeing similar to my 184-187F ECT!
Input your VIN here, an see what you can find in parts diagrams. www.partsouq.com
Yes,
New radiator, cap, themostat, hoses. Zerex Asian coolant, washed condenser from front and back and put 20K silicone fluid in fan clutch. I do see temps close to yours at times but I am basing my reply on an average for Texas Summertime weather. Engine runs cool and I don't see elevated swings to speak of. Happy with it.
Mine is 90c aka 194 and is a 2006. I plan on replacing thermostat. Radiator was replaced about 20k ago, hoses look good. I do not think they replaced the fan assembly - is this something wise to do as well?
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
By fan assembly...do you mean the fan clutch? If so, yes I would say replace the fan clutch if you are unsure if it has ever been replaced.
Yes you are correct fan clutch is what I meant, I will do some research now!
When I manually move the fan blade(engine cold, sat overnight) from a noon position it moves approximately 1 fan blade then stops. Is less movement more desirable than more movement? I saw ppl post videos in other fan clutch threads but not indicating what is actually optimum.
I'm looking hard at what is baseline ECT, for all stock 100 series. I'm trying to establish a baseline for all years. Seems we may have some variation 98-02, 03-05 and 06-07. Variation may also by regional. Altitude and humidity may play some role, IDK.
Many think of Colorado as cooler OAT, than say Texas or GA. What we actually have in Colorado is low humidity and cool nights. But during the day we've a very hot sun. So driving on black top at 97F afternoon sun in stop and go traffic here, is brutal. Yet I can get a very constant 184-187F only touching 190F worst case. Even in a 22 year old factory radiator or replacement CSF Radiator (Is what I've been using). Provided engine and coolant system is baseline.
I should note: I've been using Denso IK20TT spark plugs. IDK, but they may shave my ECT a tad.
When a fan clutch has gone bad it's easy to tell. But when they just marginal (not operating at optimal performance) it's a very difficult call. But if over 150K miles, it's not a bad idea to replace. But note; I've one at over 350K miles, seems fine and yield 184 to 187F in my 00LX.
First is to clean radiator fins, replace rad cap and thermostat over 90K miles 7yr. Flush coolant (drain block) and use Toyota coolant specified in OM, is best. Tune engine, making sure no vacuum leaks or loose or bad spark plugs.
This guy puts out some good stuff. But I've seen old pass, and a brand new fail the rolled up paper stop test. We put on new, and may have shaved off 2F. That was in and 07 w/150K.
Many think of Colorado as cooler OAT, than say Texas or GA. What we actually have in Colorado is low humidity and cool nights. But during the day we've a very hot sun. So driving on black top at 97F afternoon sun in stop and go traffic here, is brutal. Yet I can get a very constant 184-187F only touching 190F worst case. Even in a 22 year old factory radiator or replacement CSF Radiator (Is what I've been using). Provided engine and coolant system is baseline.
I should note: I've been using Denso IK20TT spark plugs. IDK, but they may shave my ECT a tad.
194 average, may be normal for a 2006. But seems high to me. It's what I'm trying to learn now, that is, what is normal for a given year. If your ECT jumps up and drop fast, than you've issue. Issue which may or may not be fan clutch.
When a fan clutch has gone bad it's easy to tell. But when they just marginal (not operating at optimal performance) it's a very difficult call. But if over 150K miles, it's not a bad idea to replace. But note; I've one at over 350K miles, seems fine and yield 184 to 187F in my 00LX.
First is to clean radiator fins, replace rad cap and thermostat over 90K miles 7yr. Flush coolant (drain block) and use Toyota coolant specified in OM, is best. Tune engine, making sure no vacuum leaks or loose or bad spark plugs.
This guy puts out some good stuff. But I've seen old pass, and a brand new fail the rolled up paper stop test. We put on new, and may have shaved off 2F. That was in and 07 w/150K.
Thank you for the detailed reply. The radiator assembly was just replaced 15k miles ago/ 2 years ago. I am going to do thermostat first and see if that changes anything. I had noticed some evidence of coolant coming out of the top of the radiator cap(dried coolant) when I first purchased the car, I cleaned it up and I think it has been dry since. Spark plugs were done at 120k, but I haven't pulled them.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I don't know if this will help, but here was my recent "test." Drove 600 miles round trip from Seattle to Bend, OR.
Temps mostly stayed around 185-188 until I hit the hotter weather/mountain passes. With the OAT at 100, doing 70 mph up a mountain pass I saw 203 a couple of times but mainly 195-199. As soon as it flattened out it returned to normal (188-192 on a hot day). It will usually run 195 idling in a hot parking lot with both AC running.
I am going to replace my thermostat soon as well as add some foam to the radiator housing to see if that helps. I wasn't worried with the temps I was seeing, but I still want to be able to go wherever I want (even Death Valley) and not worry about overheating.
1999 LX470 with 247k - all work done within last month unless otherwise noted:
Temps mostly stayed around 185-188 until I hit the hotter weather/mountain passes. With the OAT at 100, doing 70 mph up a mountain pass I saw 203 a couple of times but mainly 195-199. As soon as it flattened out it returned to normal (188-192 on a hot day). It will usually run 195 idling in a hot parking lot with both AC running.
I am going to replace my thermostat soon as well as add some foam to the radiator housing to see if that helps. I wasn't worried with the temps I was seeing, but I still want to be able to go wherever I want (even Death Valley) and not worry about overheating.
1999 LX470 with 247k - all work done within last month unless otherwise noted:
- Radiator replaced and flushed/filled with new toyota red coolant.
- Radiator upper/lower hoses replaced with OEM
- Radiator cap replaced with OEM
- Heater T AND all hoses replaced with OEM.
- Thermostat was replaced by PO at the dealer 7 years ago (70,000 miles ago). Should have replaced the thermostat when I did the radiator but couldn't get the part in time.
- Fan clutch was replaced by the PO at the dealer 3 years ago (40,000 miles ago).
Thank you for those baselines. I should mention I am reading 90c aka 194 when sitting idling at operating temperature in my driveway.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
What is the outside temp when you do this? I can drive around all day at freeway speeds and idle as long as I want and it never goes over 188 as long as it's cool outside (sub-80F). When I was in Oregon I was at a drive-through and it was 199 idling but it was 100f outside. When it was 90ish it was down to 195. I really think my thermostat is hosed and I am pissed at myself for not dealing with it during radiator job. I hate dealing with coolant.
Drove around today to fill up gas and replace battery with a Costco Interstate. Coolant temp ranged from 89 to 93. It his 93 briefly as far as I could tell then cooled down to 91. So this is a range of 192F-199F. It was 77 degrees outside, however, no clouds and felt much hotter. I live in San Diego near the beach so more humid than typical I would say.
I plan on replacing thermostat and will probably do the fan clutch. Does this seem like a normal operating range of ~7 deg? Seems reasonable to me? The radiator fins are clean and the assembly was replaced ~2 years ago as I stated, coolant nice and pink and filled properly at reservoir. Checked radiator cap it is not leaking.
94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
Just to clarify...do you mean 189-193 and 191?
Depending on engine load, ambient weather conditions, etc...This isn't unheard of. However, 199 is a little higher than I would expect. I would certainly replace the thermostat (OEM strongly recommended) at a minimum and it would be good to replace the fan clutch.
What is the condition of your radiator cap?
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Yes, definitely replace the radiator cap. Cheap and easy.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
The radiator cap doesn't have to be leaking to cause problems. Records for my truck showed the dealer recommending a new radiator cap which wasn't done when the radiator was replaced. The radiator started leaking a year after it was installed by dealer (OEM) as well as leaking radiator hoses, thermostat housing etc....
I don't know for sure but I'm suspecting the radiator cap wasn't releasing pressure well and caused the leak. At any rate I replaced it and now I don't need to worry about it for a while.
No, I was referring to Celsius from the Icarsoft. I haven't played with it to get my imperial measurments. So the range was 192F-199F or 89-93 Celsius. I will replace radiator cap asap and I have oem thermostat on hand. Will also order fan clutch just as PM.
Yep, many miss the fact, that a good wook radiator cap is so important. If stuck it can not only caused leaks. It can blow the radiator top and or heater tee's or any weak spot. Weak cap and we've other issues. All radiator manufacture recommend new cap and thermostat at time of radiator replacement. But you'd be surprised, how often a dealership or INDY only replaced the radiator.
Additionally; If radiator fins clogged with weed, bugs, cotten, dirt, etc. Dealerships, will in most cases, recommend a new radiator, as opposed to just cleaning. Labor/time is about the same. But than they often fail to clean the other two radiators. If condenser clogged up with road debris, It may reduce air flow to engine radiator. Then engine runs hot.
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- #40
Awesome feedback guys! My radiator and radiator cap is original so I just ordered a new radiator cap and AISIN fan clutch. Hopefully this does the trick.
If I experience the same "hotter than usual" engine temps, Radiator would be next, then a condenser fan since I was missing it to begin with.
If I experience the same "hotter than usual" engine temps, Radiator would be next, then a condenser fan since I was missing it to begin with.
