2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Timing Belt Replacement (1 Viewer)

[Goose17]

If you look up @OTRAMM on YouTube, he has a very comprehensive video walkthrough. Might help you get sorted faster

I ended up accessing it from underneath. My exhaust manifold heat shield made it very difficult to access from above. I was able to go in front of the CV axle and get my ratcheting wrench on it (not even a flex). I could also fit my hand in there and have enough space to move it back and forth.

 

[2001LC]

Hello,
I'm in the process of replacing the timing belt on my '02 LX. I am stuck on how to access the rear bolt on the AC compressor, it's buried. I luckily found your post. So you're saying if I just remove the front 2, I'll be able to remove the fan bracket? Thank you

That's correct. No need to remove rear AC bolt, not even loosen.

 

[2001LC]

For the lower front AC/Fan bracket bolt. Use a long extension from below. I slide it in along R&P boot, under R&P fluid lines with a universal on the end with 14mm socket.

See post #10 picture

In post #10 you'll also see how I release the wire housing from timing cover. In post #1 video Timmy struggles with this one, everyone does. Most just break its securing clip. Timmy ended-up reaching inside cover and un-pinning. I found that (going in from back side) to be the easier/faster way, more so than the way I showed. Thanks Timmy, save me time!

 

[Goose17]

For the lower front AC/Fan bracket bolt. Use a long extension from below. I slide it in along R&P boot, under R&P fluid lines with a universal on the end with 14mm socket.

See post #10 picture

In post #10 you'll also see how I release the wire housing from timing cover. In post #1 video Timmy struggles with this one, everyone does. Most just break it's securing clip. Timmy ended-up reaching inside cover and un-pinning. I found that (going in from back side) to be the easier/faster than the way I showed. Thanks Timmy, save me time!

Thanks for the follow up. I ended up removing the oil filter to make my life easier. That clip was already broken from the last person that changed the timing belt. I will probably replace it.
I did end up going 50 degrees past TDC per the FSM and AISIN kit. Cams did jump. If I manually move the cams counter clockwise to the "T" and the crankshaft counter clockwise to the "dot" (I plan on putting the lower timing cover back on). Do I risk damaging anything? AISIN kit manual has WARNING: DO NOT TURN the crankshaft.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the follow up. I ended up removing the oil filter to make my life easier. That clip was already broken from the last person that changed the timing belt. I will probably replace it.
I did end up going 50 degrees past TDC per the FSM and AISIN kit. Cams did jump. If I manually move the cams counter clockwise to the "T" and the crankshaft counter clockwise to the "dot" (I plan on putting the lower timing cover back on). Do I risk damaging anything? AISIN kit manual has WARNING: DO NOT TURN the crankshaft.

No problem in the 98-05, turning crank or cams independently.

Again, review post #10. In post #10 see last 2 pictures of crank sprocket marks. Use hard crank sprocket to oil pump cover marks. Align cams with straight line, not the "T". I do not put covers on, unit belt on, tension un-pinned and I've spun crank 720 degrees to confirm timed.

BTW: I

've found if cams and crank set on timing mark, before removing belt, they'll not move if not touched. So I always set on marks pre belt removal. EASY!
I also install belt before #2 pulley (LH or Driver side) or tensioner. But first install #1 pulley (RH, passage side) with thread sealant. I use Toyota oil pan FIPG (FIPG 102 or the new 103). But any oil rated sealant is good. Not as critical in most 4.7L, but good idea. Seal threads of #2 pulley bolt also. We do sometime get and oil leak in #2 and always in #1 if bolt threads not sealed. In fact depending on which year FSM, some do recommend .

"Precoated part" means sealed on threads.

Make sure to the crank position sensor plate curve out, so teeth line up with sensor. If in wrong teeth ride on belt.

 

[Goose17]

Got it. Thanks for your help. There is so much back and forth online about where to align everything before removing the belt, that I finally just decided to go with the FSM. When they jumped, I was worried that if I moved anything independently that I could damage the engine, since it is interference. I will move everything to TDC and then start putting everything back together. Thanks again...

 

[kwon-offroad]

06 VVTI.

Need clarification in this thread (since this is the video I will use).
Timmy aligns to the TDC mark in his procedure. OTRAMM aligns to the ATDC mark. This doesn't seem to be very critical as long as the markings on the belt line up and Toyota's own ambiguity in the FSM doesn't help either. Is the consensus that aligning to ATDC creates less chances for jump in the cams then at TDC? Or is that also ambiguous between the different make/models with difference real world outcomes between TDC and ATDC?

Believe it or not, in decades of owning and working on a lot of cars, this is my very first interference motor TB job.

 

[Goose17]

This is my first too. I followed FSM and OTRAMM and went 50 degrees after TDC. Cams jumped and I don't have a way to line the cams back up, because there are no reference points at that location. I am going to move everything back individually to TDC. I would just go TDC before taking off the belt. If I do another one, that's what I would do.

 

[nissanh]

This is my first too. I followed FSM and OTRAMM and went 50 degrees after TDC. Cams jumped and I don't have a way to line the cams back up, because there are no reference points at that location. I am going to move everything back individually to TDC. I would just go TDC before taking off the belt. If I do another one, that's what I would do.

When I did mine, I just went with TDC. Cams right at 12 O clock marks and cam on the dimple. No jumping of cams or any issues, just sheer fun of doing a t-Belt on a V8. By the I have done just one t-belt job on a 4 cylinder prior to taking the V8 apart.

 

[kwon-offroad]

When I did mine, I just went with TDC. Cams right at 12 O clock marks and cam on the dimple. No jumping of cams or any issues, just sheer fun of doing a t-Belt on a V8. By the I have done just one t-belt job on a 4 cylinder prior to taking the V8 apart.

That's what I was leaning towards, TDC. But most of all (maybe actuall all?) of the timing belts I've done on other cars, TDC tends to have the most tension on the cams so it's interesting that on this motor it apparently doesn't ???

 

[nissanh]

That's what I was leaning towards, TDC. But most of all (maybe actuall all?) of the timing belts I've done on other cars, TDC tends to have the most tension on the cams so it's interesting that on this motor it apparently doesn't ???

All toyota's are TDC as far as the vehicles in my fleet, 5VZFE 3L 2UZFE 4AFE all are at TDC, I am present while the job is done so I know the mechanic set at TDC. Also they lost more jobs from me after I see what they are doing is a piece of cake!

 

[tmoneyallday]

Since it would be your first time doing it, just plan on it being an all day job, around 8 hours. It's a lot of steps to take apart and put back together so you should take your time, be very organized, and not be in a rush. If you were experienced with the job, then I'd say it would take around 5 hours to do. If you were a paid mechanic that did this job all the time, maybe you could pull it off in 3-4 hours doing everything right and not cutting any corners.

For big jobs like this, people on forums always quote ridiculous times, like "I did it in a couple hours." Every time I hear people quote times like this, I call BS.

The shop rates depends on what part of California you are in. In the Bay Area where I'm at, Toyota dealers charge around $200/hour and good independent shops are around $150/hour. It would be my guess shops are going to bill at least 4 hours for this job so maybe $600 labor plus parts. Once you start calling around and getting quotes, you'll find out how many hours the job bills for. Good luck!

That price is spot on. Labor for my job was $575 if I provided the parts

 

[Goose17]

I ran into another issue. The 12mm bolt for the fan bracket only goes in about 95% of the way and then hits something. I repaired all the threads on the bolt, that didn't work. Pressurized air didn't get anything out, I have heard old coolant can get stuck in there. A little penetrating oil didn't work. The threads on the end of the bolt become damaged every time I try to torque it down. Should I just put on a few 8mm washers and call it a day? If I do retap the threads, I would need to buy a long tap, the one I have is not long enough. I'm not about to remove the belt and water pump and do that over again. Thanks

 

[2001LC]

I'll first say: I rarely do a T-belt service, without replacing FB. It's only a part, no extra labor. Unless it passes inspect, which they almost never do.

That bolt if you've the correct length bolt, goes in later.

 

[2001LC]

Make sure crank sensor & oil sender unit wire housing routed behind FB.
This one was not routed correctly.

And the mouse door in place.

 

[Goose17]

Thank you! That would be why it's not getting tight. And I did have that wire on the wrong side. Rookie mistakes.

 

[2001LC]

Thank you! That would be why it's not getting tight. And I did have that wire on the wrong side. Rookie mistakes.

NP!

 

[Dave JR]

Hi. I just picked up a 2003 with 117k miles on it. Minty fresh other than a bunch of surface rust from South Dakota winters. Preparing to do the TB job as it has never been done. This is my first Land Cruiser and my first of this motor series.

Is there a consensus out there on timing position for pulling the timing belt? From what I’ve read here, following the instructions still results in cam jump in many cases. It sounds like some here are ignoring the fsm and aligning to top dead center with good results?

Cheers

 

[Goose17]

Hi. I just picked up a 2003 with 117k miles on it. Minty fresh other than a bunch of surface rust from South Dakota winters. Preparing to do the TB job as it has never been done. This is my first Land Cruiser and my first of this motor series.

Is there a consensus out there on timing position for pulling the timing belt? From what I’ve read here, following the instructions still results in cam jump in many cases. It sounds like some here are ignoring the fsm and aligning to top dead center with good results?

Cheers

I just did it last week along with a bunch of other stuff (Radiator, AC Condenser, thermostat, throttle body cleaning and gasket, etc).
Have it at TDC before you pull the old belt. It won't jump and then you can just put the new belt on without moving anything.

 

[Timmy65]

I just did it last week along with a bunch of other stuff (Radiator, AC Condenser, thermostat, throttle body cleaning and gasket, etc).
Have it at TDC before you pull the old belt. It won't jump and then you can just put the new belt on without moving anything.

I've heard from comments on my video that the "T" position is a good position to turn the cam sprockets to, so the camshafts don't jump when you take off the timing belt.