2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Timing Belt Replacement (7 Viewers)

[Dave JR]

I just tore into a 100 series i recently picked up and am having trouble removing the original water-pump gasket. Does anyone here have any tricks for removing stubborn gasket. It was the original 21 year old gasket and apparently had a self sealing leak at one point as was evident by the giant dried coolant plug that had formed over the oil pump.

I’ve tried the usual red scubbie and razor blade combo, but am 4 hours in to carefully trying to remove this stuff and still have a bit more to go in a couple spots. Has anyone tried anything like a magic eraser with success?

 

[Goose17]

It took me awhile too. I used sand paper and new sharp razor blades.

Something like this for a Dremel might help:
Amazon product ASIN B07PTBH6Q9

 

[Goose17]

The Aisin kit has all you need. Except tools, 1282B FIPG and soapy (Dove) water.

I'd not replace everything touched or in area working, unless needed. Not even cam or crank seals. Keep in mind in most cases; The factory installed parts are best you can get. Keep them as long as their good.

I do like timing a few things with T-belt service, like:
Coolant service.
Tune up.

Very often I do find fan bracket will not pass inspection. So I like to keep those on hand.



Sorry just saw question.

Well I've didn't know they came precoated (never seen a new one). But if threads coated by factory, it should be just fine. No worries!

What happens is we get a very small oil weep if not sealed. Provided bolt was torque in. If not sealed and not torque in, they can leak kind of badly. The oil weep is not a pressure leak. It's just the back side of oil pump housing area, which is bathed in oil. So any oil rated sealant works. Just do not use some sealant that locks the threads in, like RED loctite.

The leak from this bolts threads, not being sealed. Typically shows itself, at first appearance, on right side (BK2) engine at side of lower T-cover about 3" above oil pan. It than spreads, to weep hole, right side first. Given time the whole area becomes wet.


View attachment 2834603
Over time wet area grows. Often thought to be crank and or cam seal leak(s).

View attachment 2834608

That's the exact leak that I have. Thank you for posting those pictures. I am about to take it apart and do the timing belt and I was reviewing the old threads to refresh my memory. Now I know what to look out for. Thank you

 

[Tekem]

Love your work Timmy. You do more thoughtful jobs that most all shop (INDY, specialty or Dealership). Been watching your videos for years. Thanks for all of them! My first AC job went well thanks to you.

We all do these T-belt job a bit different. I would make some suggest here for the 100 series.
1) The 100 series we don't have to remove some of the wiring off body/frame nor PS reservoir. No need to pull cam sensor on any 2UZ if not replacing.
2) AC compressor. Just remove the two front bolts. Get all fan bracket bolts in, including compressor bolt, before torquing. Sung compressor bolts than torque front bracket bolts/nuts first than come back on torque compressor bolts.
3) That pesky time cover clip holding cam sensor wire. Is a pain. If crank/oil wire housing routed properly, I don't know if you can pulling cover first. I'll try next one I do. But I do know you can release clip from cover (as you found after 20 minutes) while timing cover on. I keep a picture to remind on how to release that clip. I can't tell how many shops just bust it, and leave dangling. Good job taking time releasing without busting. It is one of the most frustrating clip on the 100 series 2UZ.
4) block surface under water pump gasket is always pitted. I've a trick to seal with Toy 1282B FIPG (see video below). But it requires letting cure overnight. So do this as a 2 day job minimum. I'm so slow!
5) I never replace crank or cam seals. Unless leaking. Have never seen factory seal leak, and I've do dozen of these 2UZ every year.
6) I install water inlet last. I use only Toy 1282B FIPG only here or any coolant related. It must be torque in in less than 5 minutes or romove FIPG and re-due.. We can get away with 103 FIPG. But I see two things that concerns me. Concerns are: leaks and chemical reaction on water pump bushing element. FSM states 1282B. Aisin actually has a little tube they sell for water inlet, we believe is Toy 1282B. Just a heck of a lot cheaper as is a smaller tube.
7) I just use 103 FIPG to seal the tensioner pulley 10mm alen-head bolt threads, going into the oil pump housing. Not sealing bolt as Toy FSM directs, result in oil leak. This leak is often miss diagnose as crank or cam seal leak, due to oil at lower weep hole. Clean the area and watch for re-appearance of leak. It first appears RH side of lower timing belt cover.
8) Some toque spec different in 100 series FSM. But difference is minor. I would use vehicle specific FSM on and T-belt job.
9) The wire harness holding wires for crank sensor and oil sending unit. Need to be put behind leg of fan bracket. Routed in front of fan bracket, it may rubs drive belt and cuts wires. Vehicle will not start, if crank sensor wire cut..
10) Did not review video closely, press for time this morning. But a little plastic triangular cover goes in before fan bracket. We call it "the mouse door" . Mice get in if left off, and can take out a timing belt. Seen happen, no kidding. Mickey mouse can kill a land cruise, if the 2UZ VVT engine. Non VVT just leave on side of road.
11) Number of coolant adding/burping tools on market. But I always check coolant level under the cap next morning, after 8 hour cool down. I find them low, so very often. Especial if block drained and or heater core blown out.



We don't pull radiator unless replacing. But nice touch is to cover it or condenser rad fins with cardboard.

Pesky clip release
View attachment 2684144
Mouse door is closed!
View attachment 2684139

Lower AC compressor bolt easy accessView attachment 2684129

Hard timing marks of crank
View attachment 2684133
View attachment 2684135

My water pump started leaking while I was driving. I had taken it to Mavis to do a TB and WP. When I took a look I can see the TB as the mouse door is missing. They never put it back. Does anyone know what the part number is to replace it? I will do the TB and WP replacement myself based on @cruiserpatch and @Timmy65. Instructions. I am ordering the fipg 128b2 as I have experience on my Honda civic with using the wrong gasket maker when I turbo charged it.

 

[Goose17]

You'll need the gasket too, which is 1133850010. Small things like this, I would get from Lexus Parts because they offer a free shipping credit up to $100, with no minimum. Through Chatham Parkway Lexus (31405), you can get both, out the door, for $17.43. This dealership will also drop ship, if they don't have parts in stock, which they probably won't.

 

[2001LC]

VVti timing,

Timing marks on 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVti of the 2006 & 2007 100 series. I use the "T"

During disassemble, I set cams to the "T", and line harmonic balance to the nipple protruding from lower plastic cover. I do not turn Cams nor Crank, unless belt on and pin pulled from tensioner. I check timing, to "I" and cranks sprocket "V" to tiny metal nipple on oil pump as always.

Nipple protruding from lower plastic cover. Correlates harmonic balance crankshaft locking key to a "box" symbol on oil pump.

In below pictures. They happen to show,t a little ahead of marks. ~1/2 tooth on cams, and 1 tooth on crank sprockets. Had I been dead on. The the double lines on belt on crank sprocket, would be on oil pump "box". This is what the second double set of lines on belt for.

Had I been dead on at time of pictures. The the double lines on belt on crank sprocket, would be on oil pump "box" symbol. This is what the second double set of lines on belt is for.

I work on get better pictures next time. Where marks dead on.

 

[Tekem]

You'll need the gasket too, which is 1133850010. Small things like this, I would get from Lexus Parts because they offer a free shipping credit up to $100, with no minimum. Through Chatham Parkway Lexus (31405), you can get both, out the door, for $17.43. This dealership will also drop ship, if they don't have parts in stock, which they probably won't.


View attachment 3809695

Thank you very much!

 

[Goose17]

Thank you very much!

No problem. Also, you won't pay sales tax, since you do not live in the same state as the dealership you are ordering from. Looks like you are in NY and Chatham Parkway Lexus is in GA. The parts will probably drop ship from the West Caldwell, NJ warehouse and you'll get them quickly, since you live so close.
Lastly, did you have Mavis, the tire store, work on your timing belt? I wouldn't let that place top off my wiper fluid. I would do the work myself or look elsewhere. Good luck!