2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Timing Belt Replacement (5 Viewers)

[Coin]

Wow

 

[2001LC]

Very Nasty looking idler pulley bearing.

Was it done at Dealership?

They almost never replace pulleys or tensioner. Why! Actually to save customer money. I see the mechanic up at wholesale parts counter spinning the pulley, asking: "what do you guys think"! That, and work order just states: "Belt & water pump".

We buy the Aisin kits with all included. Dealership use the same parts more or less, just in Toyota box. Some say that means (Toyota box) higher standard from same manufacture. Perhaps in some cases, IDK. But the cost of OEM Toyota, is so much higher. Mechanic gets accused of ripping off customer! It can add ~$500 to the job.

I've more than once pulled Timing belt on jobs done by Dealership, within a few thousand miles after they've service. I'm shock at condition of pulleys and tensioner. A good service manager writes up as "all parts" If clients says. "OH, down the street they offer T-belt service for few hundred less. Well, let them go down the street.

Moral of story. Don't cheap out on a few extra parts. Tell the service manger you want all pulleys and tensioner.

Be glade yours is not a VVT.

 

[gatormark91]

7) I just use 103 FIPG to seal the tensioner pulley 10mm alen-head bolt threads, going into the oil pump housing. Not sealing bolt as Toy FSM directs, result in oil leak. This leak is often miss diagnose as crank or cam seal leak, due to oil at lower weep hole. Clean the area and watch for re-appearance of leak. It first appears RH side of lower timing belt cover.

Yeah, guess what I forgot to do? Knew it almost immediately after I finished the job two years ago I missed it, but it did not leak for a long time. Now have a little leaking down on the tensioner. Trying to decide if I can mark the belt and pulleys on the passenger side, secure the TB with some vice grips to the pulleys, maybe bungee the belt to the frame to keep it tight, pop the tensioner out, seal just the timing tensioner pulley bolt, and pop the tensioner back in? It is a tiny leak, but I hate any leaks...

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I'd say I found the problem....

I have a feeling the shop that replaced the TB/WP (allegedly) did not replace the pulleys.....just a feeling.

@2001LC @JunkCrzr89
View attachment 2725360View attachment 2725361View attachment 2725362

Time to get to work...

Patch

Can’t say I’ve ever seen one disintegrate that bad. Btw - Check the wiring for the camshaft position sensor. Tough to tell in the photo but looks like there may be some damage from the belt hitting it

 

[cruiserpatch]

Can’t say I’ve ever seen one disintegrate that bad. Btw - Check the wiring for the camshaft position sensor. Tough to tell in the photo but looks like there may be some damage from the belt hitting it

View attachment 2725993

Thanks for noticing this. I checked both terminals from the connector to the ground and the exposed wire and had no continuity.

There is not a short circuit present. The exposed wires tested as the ground. There is also no short across the pos/neg for the connector.

I'll tape the exposed wire for precaution.

 

[Ayune]

7) I just use 103 FIPG to seal the tensioner pulley 10mm alen-head bolt threads, going into the oil pump housing. Not sealing bolt as Toy FSM directs, result in oil leak. This leak is often miss diagnose as crank or cam seal leak, due to oil at lower weep hole. Clean the area and watch for re-appearance of leak. It first appears RH side of lower timing belt cover.

@2001LC When I did my timing belt I used a new ‘precoated’ bolt (~$8) for the tensioner idler pulley. Is this precoating enough to form the seal, or should I have also applied FIPG?

 

[cruiserpatch]

Vert Nasty looking idler pulley bearing.

Was it done at Dealership?

They almost never replace pulleys or tensioner. Why! Actually to save customer money. I see the mechanic up at wholesale parts counter spinning the pulley, asking: "what do you guys think"! That, and work order just states: "Belt & water pump".

We buy the Aisin kits with all included. Dealership use the same parts more or less, just in Toyota box. Some say that means (Toyota box) higher standard from same manufacture. Perhaps in some cases, IDK. But the cost of OEM Toyota, is so much higher. Mechanic gets accused of ripping off customer! It can add ~$500 to the job.

I've more than once pulled Timing belt on jobs done by Dealership, within a few thousand miles after they've service. I'm shock at condition of pulleys and tensioner. A good service manager writes up as "all parts" If clients says. "OH, down the street they offer T-belt service for few hundred less. Well, let them go down the street.

Moral of story. Don't cheap out on a few extra parts. Tell the service manger you want all pulleys and tensioner.

Be glade yours is not a VVT.

Your insight is truly invaluable. In this case I believe the truck was taken to a small independent shop. They used an aftermarket WP and TB, as well as a Chinese fan bracket (it failed on me about 4 months ago).

I have since replaced the TB, both idler pulleys, WP, and fan bracket with AISIN parts. I also swapped out the thermostat and, go figure, aftermarket.

In this case if the previous owner still owned the truck, he would have been forced to pay for a TB/WP job AGAIN because the mechanics decided not to replace the 248K + idler pulleys. I tried spinning the WP pulley by hand and cannot get it to budge. Same with idler pulley No. 1 (the one that did not explode).

Will add pictures later for those who want to see the aftermarket vs OEM (AISIN) stuff.

Driven about 100 miles so far and absolutely no issues.

 

[cruiserpatch]

@2001LC When I did my timing belt I used a new ‘precoated’ bolt (~$8) for the tensioner idler pulley. Is this precoating enough to form the seal, or should I have also applied FIPG?
View attachment 2726378

Follow FSM for this. I used Loctite 242.

 

[Ayune]

Follow FSM for this. I used Loctite 242. View attachment 2727066

My understanding is “precoated” fasteners have the thread locker factory applied, and for first use you do not need to apply additional thread locker or sealant. When re-installing a used fastener (that is not marked as “single-use”) you must apply fresh thread locker or sealant.

Am I correct?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

My understanding is “precoated” fasteners have the thread locker factory applied, and for first use you do not need to apply additional thread locker or sealant. When re-installing a used fastener (that is not marked as “single-use”) you must apply fresh thread locker or sealant.

Am I correct?

That’s correct.

 

[cruiserpatch]

I could use some help, folks.

I successfully replaced my TB, WP, idler pulleys, thermostat, and tensioner last week and am absolutely positive that my engine is running in time.
I've checked timing and even had Peter Merriam take a look to make sure I'm not crazy.

Unfortunately, I believe that something is wrong. Symptoms are this:
Rollback on uphill
Rough motor around 1000 RPM
Impossible to rev past 2600 RPM when traveling at speed (60-65 MPH).

I've read some places that the 1999 pre-VVTI 2UZ-FE engines are non-interference, but I cannot help but wonder if one of my valves has been bent or damaged when the idler pulley exploded etc (see previous posts). My timing belt tensioner pulley, aftermarket water pump, and timing belt idler pulley all seized when the idler exploded and my belt jumped off. I'm afraid that my engine is toast but the computer is not picking up any problems.

I will attempt a leak-down test today of a few cylinders. I tried yesterday but with mixed results.

EDIT:

The symptoms listed were due to a failed fan clutch. I also had an intermittent misfire problem because of a dirty MAF.

When doing the TB/WP job, make sure you keep your MAF protected from moisture and debris while it is sitting out.

 

[craignmongolia]

Just a question…..I have a Japanese RHD 1999 TLC. What parts should I change if I replace the timing belt and water pump? If I get the AISIN TKT-021 should I get other parts, as well? Advice appreciated!!!!

 

[cruiserpatch]

Just a question…..I have a Japanese RHD 1999 TLC. What parts should I change if I replace the timing belt and water pump? If I get the AISIN TKT-021 should I get other parts, as well? Advice appreciated!!!!

It's a great time to replace any of the following if they're old or as preventative maintenance:

Alternator
AC compressor
Fan bracket
Fan clutch
Fan shroud
Radiator
PS pump
Idler pulley
Tensioner pulley and Tensioner
Bearings (for any of the aforementioned pulleys)
Old PS hoses, reservoir, or coolant hoses
Air filter
Spark plugs, valve cover gaskets
Coil packs, coil pack gaskets
Thermostat (make sure you buy the gasket too)*

*this is highly recommended

Ultimately you will need to remove most of the items on that list to complete the job anyway, so just exchange the old for new and bingo.

If I missed anything else, others will comment

 

[J Jamm]

I'm having my TB and WP replaced soon. I bought a used 2007 with 146k miles and no history of it being done before. I'm following some of the recommendations for the "while you're in there" mentality. I'm trying to put together a list of what may make sense to replace because I haven't found a more comprehensive one with part numbers. It stops short of things like the radiator, ps pump, etc, but this is what I have come up with so far. I will be ordering all the parts myself, so I'm trying to have it all together first and make sure I'm not missing anything when the work starts. Any more thoughts or comments on this list?

Cruiserteq TB/WP kit:
Camshaft Seals
Crank Seal
Timing Belt - 1356859095
Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly - 1354050030
Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #1 - 166030W030
Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #2 - 1660450030
Timing Belt Cover Gasket Insert
Water Bypass Pipe O-ring
Water Inlet Housing O-ring
Water Pump - 1610059275
Water Pump Gasket - 1627150010

Extra:
Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley - 166040F010
Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Pulley - 166030W010
Fan Pulley - 163710F010
Serpentine Belt - 9091602585
Tensioner Assembly - 166200W101
Thermostat - 9091603138
Thermostat Gasket - 1634650010
Radiator Fan Clutch - 1621050102
Radiator Fan Clutch Bracket - 163070F010

 

[2001LC]

The Aisin kit has all you need. Except tools, 1282B FIPG and soapy (Dove) water.

I'd not replace everything touched or in area working, unless needed. Not even cam or crank seals. Keep in mind in most cases; The factory installed parts are best you can get. Keep them as long as their good.

I do like timing a few things with T-belt service, like:
Coolant service.
Tune up.

Very often I do find fan bracket will not pass inspection. So I like to keep those on hand.

@2001LC When I did my timing belt I used a new ‘precoated’ bolt (~$8) for the tensioner idler pulley. Is this precoating enough to form the seal, or should I have also applied FIPG?
View attachment 2726378

Sorry just saw question.

Well I've didn't know they came precoated (never seen a new one). But if threads coated by factory, it should be just fine. No worries!

What happens is we get a very small oil weep if not sealed. Provided bolt was torque in. If not sealed and not torque in, they can leak kind of badly. The oil weep is not a pressure leak. It's just the back side of oil pump housing area, which is bathed in oil. So any oil rated sealant works. Just do not use some sealant that locks the threads in, like RED loctite.

The leak from this bolts threads, not being sealed. Typically shows itself, at first appearance, on right side (BK2) engine at side of lower T-cover about 3" above oil pan. It than spreads, to weep hole, right side first. Given time the whole area becomes wet.

Over time wet area grows. Often thought to be crank and or cam seal leak(s).

 

[cruiserpatch]

The Aisin kit has all you need. Except tools, 1282B FIPG and soapy (Dove) water.

I'd not replace everything touched or in area working, unless needed. Not even cam or crank seals. Keep in mind in most cases; The factory installed parts are best you can get. Keep them as long as their good.

I do like timing a few things with T-belt service, like:
Coolant service.
Tune up.

Very often I do find fan bracket will not pass inspection. So I like to keep those on hand.



Sorry just saw question.

Well I've didn't know they came precoated (never seen a new one). But if threads coated by factory, it should be just fine. No worries!

What happens is we get a very small oil weep if not sealed. Provided bolt was torque in. If not sealed and not torque in, they can leak kind of badly. The oil weep is not a pressure leak. It's just the back side of oil pump housing area, which is bathed in oil. So any oil rated sealant works. Just do not use some sealant that locks the threads in, like RED loctite.

The leak from this bolts threads, not being sealed. Typically shows itself, at first appearance, on right side (BK2) engine at side of lower T-cover about 3" above oil pan. It than spreads, to weep hole, right side first. Given time the whole area becomes wet.


View attachment 2834603
Over time wet area grows. Often thought to be crank and or cam seal leak(s).

View attachment 2834608

When I did this job in August I used a rubber safe grease lubricant on the o-rings rather than soapy water.

Is there an advantage using soap-water?

 

[trdcorolla]

I'm having my TB and WP replaced soon. I bought a used 2007 with 146k miles and no history of it being done before. I'm following some of the recommendations for the "while you're in there" mentality. I'm trying to put together a list of what may make sense to replace because I haven't found a more comprehensive one with part numbers. It stops short of things like the radiator, ps pump, etc, but this is what I have come up with so far. I will be ordering all the parts myself, so I'm trying to have it all together first and make sure I'm not missing anything when the work starts. Any more thoughts or comments on this list?

Cruiserteq TB/WP kit:
Camshaft Seals
Crank Seal
Timing Belt - 1356859095
Timing Belt Tensioner Assembly - 1354050030
Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #1 - 166030W030
Timing Belt Idler Sub Assembly #2 - 1660450030
Timing Belt Cover Gasket Insert
Water Bypass Pipe O-ring
Water Inlet Housing O-ring
Water Pump - 1610059275
Water Pump Gasket - 1627150010

Extra:
Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley - 166040F010
Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Pulley - 166030W010
Fan Pulley - 163710F010
Serpentine Belt - 9091602585
Tensioner Assembly - 166200W101
Thermostat - 9091603138
Thermostat Gasket - 1634650010
Radiator Fan Clutch - 1621050102
Radiator Fan Clutch Bracket - 163070F010

You have a VVTi motor, camshafts have to come out to replace the seals, I would leave them alone if they are dry. If you had a 98-05, I would replace them while your in there. There's a comprehensive list here on mud somewhere which includes a bunch of replacement coolant hoses/clamps, heater t's, etc.

 

[Goose17]

Love your work Timmy. You do more thoughtful jobs that most all shop (INDY, specialty or Dealership). Been watching your videos for years. Thanks for all of them! My first AC job went well thanks to you.

We all do these T-belt job a bit different. I would make some suggest here for the 100 series.
1) The 100 series we don't have to remove some of the wiring off body/frame nor PS reservoir. No need to pull cam sensor on any 2UZ if not replacing.
2) AC compressor. Just remove the two front bolts. Get all fan bracket bolts in, including compressor bolt, before torquing. Sung compressor bolts than torque front bracket bolts/nuts first than come back on torque compressor bolts.
3) That pesky time cover clip holding cam sensor wire. Is a pain. If crank/oil wire housing routed properly, I don't know if you can pulling cover first. I'll try next one I do. But I do know you can release clip from cover (as you found after 20 minutes) while timing cover on. I keep a picture to remind on how to release that clip. I can't tell how many shops just bust it, and leave dangling. Good job taking time releasing without busting. It is one of the most frustrating clip on the 100 series 2UZ.
4) block surface under water pump gasket is always pitted. I've a trick to seal with Toy 1282B FIPG (see video below). But it requires letting cure overnight. So do this as a 2 day job minimum. I'm so slow!
5) I never replace crank or cam seals. Unless leaking. Have never seen factory seal leak, and I've do dozen of these 2UZ every year.
6) I install water inlet last. I use only Toy 1282B FIPG only here or any coolant related. It must be torque in in less than 5 minutes or romove FIPG and re-due.. We can get away with 103 FOPG. But I see two things that concerns me. Concerns are: leaks and chemical reaction on water pump bushing element. FSM states 1282B. Aisin actually has a little tube they sell for water inlet, we believe is Toy 1282B. Just a heck of a lot cheaper as is a smaller tube.
7) I just use 103 FIPG to seal the tensioner pulley 10mm alen-head bolt threads, going into the oil pump housing. Not sealing bolt as Toy FSM directs, result in oil leak. This leak is often miss diagnose as crank or cam seal leak, due to oil at lower weep hole. Clean the area and watch for re-appearance of leak. It first appears RH side of lower timing belt cover.
8) Some toque spec different in 100 series FSM. But difference is minor. I would use vehicle specific FSM on and T-belt job.
9) The wire harness holding wires for crank sensor and oil sending unit. Need to be put behind leg of fan bracket. Routed in front of fan bracket, it may rubs drive belt and cuts wires. Vehicle will not start, if crank sensor wire cut..
10) Did not review video closely, press for time this morning. But a little plastic triangular cover goes in before fan bracket. We call it "the mouse door" . Mice get in if left off, and can take out a timing belt. Seen happen, no kidding. Mickey mouse can kill a land cruise, if the 2UZ VVT engine. Non VVT just leave on side of road.
11) Number of coolant adding/burping tools on market. But I always check coolant level under the cap next morning, after 8 hour cool down. I find them low, so very often. Especial if block drained and or heater core blown out.



We don't pull radiator unless replacing. But nice touch is to cover it or condenser rad fins with cardboard.

Pesky clip release
View attachment 2684144
Mouse door is closed!
View attachment 2684139

Lower AC compressor bolt easy accessView attachment 2684129

Hard timing marks of crank
View attachment 2684133
View attachment 2684135

Hello,
I'm in the process of replacing the timing belt on my '02 LX. I am stuck on how to access the rear bolt on the AC compressor, it's buried. I luckily found your post. So you're saying if I just remove the front 2, I'll be able to remove the fan bracket? Thank you

 

[whitec13]

Hello,
I'm in the process of replacing the timing belt on my '02 LX. I am stuck on how to access the rear bolt on the AC compressor, it's buried. I luckily found your post. So you're saying if I just remove the front 2, I'll be able to remove the fan bracket? Thank you

If you look up @OTRAMM on YouTube, he has a very comprehensive video walkthrough. Might help you get sorted faster

 

[Goose17]

If you look up @OTRAMM on YouTube, he has a very comprehensive video walkthrough. Might help you get sorted faster

Found him.
Thanks