2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Timing Belt Replacement (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Threads
27
Messages
106
Location
95128
Hey Dudes, the 2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Engine you guys have in your rigs is an interference engine and you know you don't want to push the interval at which you replace the timing belt because very bad things can happen if the timing belt breaks. Is it an absolute that valve damage will happen if the timing belt breaks? It appears that's not the case because people have reported on forums that their timing belt broke and the engine was fine. But, I guess it's still not something you probably want to roll the dice on and majorly extend the interval at which you renew the timing belt on this engine.

So, now for the good part. We have a 2-Part video series you can use to replace it along with the associated components like the timing belt tensioner, timing belt idler pulleys, water pump, and crankshaft seal.

This is a fairly big job but it's not above the abilities of any DIYer with the Right Information, Right Tools and Right Level of Patience. We got you covered on the information front and we also provide you with links to all the tools you'll need to be successful. The only thing we can't provide you with is the level of patience to see a job of this level through from beginning to end. If you take your time and are very organized, you'll have no problem knocking this job out.

We hope you find the video helpful. If you have questions, you know where to find us. You can message us here on Facebook, on our YouTube channel and on Instagram.

Here's the Video and Enjoy the Show!
p.s. Part 2 will be coming out within the next week so stay tuned!

 
the 2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Engine you guys have in your rigs is an interference engine
1620665556485.gif

@2001LC
 
Great video really informative, looking fwd to part 2.
It will be out pretty soon. I went through and did all the rough cuts and my buddy Sean is going to polish it up over the next few days, a week at the most.
 
You guys have got that process figured out! Nice work.
 
Thank you for documenting all that! I need to get this done. Whether I do this myself or take it to a shop will depend on time vs. money as usual.

So how much time would you estimate if all the tools and parts were lined up? And does anyone know what a reasonable cost should be from an independent shop who’s done this before?
 
Since it would be your first time doing it, just plan on it being an all day job, around 8 hours. It's a lot of steps to take apart and put back together so you should take your time, be very organized, and not be in a rush. If you were experienced with the job, then I'd say it would take around 5 hours to do. If you were a paid mechanic that did this job all the time, maybe you could pull it off in 3-4 hours doing everything right and not cutting any corners.

For big jobs like this, people on forums always quote ridiculous times, like "I did it in a couple hours." Every time I hear people quote times like this, I call BS.

The shop rates depends on what part of California you are in. In the Bay Area where I'm at, Toyota dealers charge around $200/hour and good independent shops are around $150/hour. It would be my guess shops are going to bill at least 4 hours for this job so maybe $600 labor plus parts. Once you start calling around and getting quotes, you'll find out how many hours the job bills for. Good luck!
 
Love your work Timmy. You do more thoughtful jobs that most all shop (INDY, specialty or Dealership). Been watching your videos for years. Thanks for all of them! My first AC job went well thanks to you.

We all do these T-belt job a bit different. I would make some suggest here for the 100 series.
1) The 100 series we don't have to remove some of the wiring off body/frame nor PS reservoir. No need to pull cam sensor on any 2UZ if not replacing.
2) AC compressor. Just remove the two front bolts. Get all fan bracket bolts in, including compressor bolt, before torquing. Sung compressor bolts than torque front bracket bolts/nuts first than come back on torque compressor bolts.
3) That pesky time cover clip holding cam sensor wire. Is a pain. If crank/oil wire housing routed properly, I don't know if you can pulling cover first. I'll try next one I do. But I do know you can release clip from cover (as you found after 20 minutes) while timing cover on. I keep a picture to remind on how to release that clip. I can't tell how many shops just bust it, and leave dangling. Good job taking time releasing without busting. It is one of the most frustrating clip on the 100 series 2UZ.
4) block surface under water pump gasket is always pitted. I've a trick to seal with Toy 1282B FIPG (see video below). But it requires letting cure overnight. So do this as a 2 day job minimum. I'm so slow!
5) I never replace crank or cam seals. Unless leaking. Have never seen factory seal leak, and I've do dozen of these 2UZ every year.
6) I install water inlet last. I use only Toy 1282B FIPG only here or any coolant related. It must be torque in in less than 5 minutes or romove FIPG and re-due.. We can get away with 103 FIPG. But I see two things that concerns me. Concerns are: leaks and chemical reaction on water pump bushing element. FSM states 1282B. Aisin actually has a little tube they sell for water inlet, we believe is Toy 1282B. Just a heck of a lot cheaper as is a smaller tube.
7) I just use 103 FIPG to seal the tensioner pulley 10mm alen-head bolt threads, going into the oil pump housing. Not sealing bolt as Toy FSM directs, result in oil leak. This leak is often miss diagnose as crank or cam seal leak, due to oil at lower weep hole. Clean the area and watch for re-appearance of leak. It first appears RH side of lower timing belt cover.
8) Some toque spec different in 100 series FSM. But difference is minor. I would use vehicle specific FSM on and T-belt job.
9) The wire harness holding wires for crank sensor and oil sending unit. Need to be put behind leg of fan bracket. Routed in front of fan bracket, it may rubs drive belt and cuts wires. Vehicle will not start, if crank sensor wire cut..
10) Did not review video closely, press for time this morning. But a little plastic triangular cover goes in before fan bracket. We call it "the mouse door" . Mice get in if left off, and can take out a timing belt. Seen happen, no kidding. Mickey mouse can kill a land cruise, if the 2UZ VVT engine. Non VVT just leave on side of road.
11) Number of coolant adding/burping tools on market. But I always check coolant level under the cap next morning, after 8 hour cool down. I find them low, so very often. Especial if block drained and or heater core blown out.



We don't pull radiator unless replacing. But nice touch is to cover it or condenser rad fins with cardboard.

Pesky clip release
Timing belt cover cam clip wire housing (11).JPG

Mouse door is closed!
029.JPG


Lower AC compressor bolt easy access
AC bolt (3).JPG


Hard timing marks of crank
Timing Belt 06LC 194K 050.JPG

013.JPG
 
Last edited:
Thank you for documenting all that! I need to get this done. Whether I do this myself or take it to a shop will depend on time vs. money as usual.

So how much time would you estimate if all the tools and parts were lined up? And does anyone know what a reasonable cost should be from an independent shop who’s done this before?

Love your work Timmy. You do more thoughtful jobs that most all shop (INDY, specialty or Dealership). Been watching your videos for years. Thanks for all of them! My first AC job went well thanks to you.

We all do these T-belt job a bit different. I would make some suggest here for the 100 series.
1) The 100 series we don't have to remove some of the wiring off body/frame nor PS reservoir. No need to pull cam sensor on any 2UZ if not replacing.
2) AC compressor. Just remove the two front bolts. Get all fan bracket bolts in, including compressor bolt, before torquing. Sung compressor bolts than torque front bracket bolts/nuts first than come back on torque compressor bolts.
3) That pesky time cover clip holding cam sensor wire. Is a pain. If crank/oil wire housing routed properly, I don't know if you can pulling cover first. I'll try next one I do. But I do know you can release clip from cover (as you found after 20 minutes) while timing cover on. I keep a picture to remind on how to release that clip. I can't tell how many shops just bust it, and leave dangling. Good job taking time releasing without busting. It is one of the most frustrating clip on the 100 series 2UZ.
4) block surface under water pump gasket is always pitted. I've a trick to seal with Toy 1282B FIPG (see video below). But it requires letting cure overnight. So do this as a 2 day job minimum. I'm so slow!
5) I never replace crank or cam seals. Unless leaking. Have never seen factory seal leak, and I've do dozen of these 2UZ every year.
6) I install water inlet last. I use only Toy 1282B FIPG only here or any coolant related. It must be torque in in less than 5 minutes or romove FIPG and re-due.. We can get away with 103 FOPG. But I see two things that concerns me. Concerns are: leaks and chemical reaction on water pump bushing element. FSM states 1282B. Aisin actually has a little tube they sell for water inlet, we believe is Toy 1282B. Just a heck of a lot cheaper as is a smaller tube.
7) I just use 103 FIPG to seal the tensioner pulley 10mm alen-head bolt threads, going into the oil pump housing. Not sealing bolt as Toy FSM directs, result in oil leak. This leak is often miss diagnose as crank or cam seal leak, due to oil at lower weep hole. Clean the area and watch for re-appearance of leak. It first appears RH side of lower timing belt cover.
8) Some toque spec different in 100 series FSM. But difference is minor. I would use vehicle specific FSM on and T-belt job.
9) The wire harness holding wires for crank sensor and oil sending unit. Need to be put behind leg of fan bracket. Routed in front of fan bracket, it may rubs drive belt and cuts wires. Vehicle will not start, if crank sensor wire cut..
10) Did not review video closely, press for time this morning. But a little plastic triangular cover goes in before fan bracket. We call it "the mouse door" . Mice get in if left off, and can take out a timing belt. Seen happen, no kidding. Mickey mouse can kill a land cruise, if the 2UZ VVT engine. Non VVT just leave on side of road.
11) Number of coolant adding/burping tools on market. But I always check coolant level under the cap next morning, after 8 hour cool down. I find them low, so very often. Especial if block drained and or heater core blown out.



We don't pull radiator unless replacing. But nice touch is to cover it or condenser rad fins with cardboard.

Pesky clip release
View attachment 2684144
Mouse door is closed!
View attachment 2684139

Lower AC compressor bolt easy accessView attachment 2684129

Hard timing marks of crank
View attachment 2684133
View attachment 2684135


Thanks for sharing your experience with this job. I wondered about using FIPG 103 for that pulley bolt. I think I'll do that next time I do a timing belt job which is coming very soon on my 2000 4runner.

I've never used that coolant specific FIPG but now I'm going to buy some. Luckily that water inlet is easy to get to if that 103 doesn't hold.
 
Help! Yesterday driving in the mountains my 1999 LX470 2UZ-FE started squealing from the TB chamber. I pulled over just in time to hear the belt snap. I shut off the engine and coasted in neutral to the side of the road. I plan to order everything I need to fix it asap.

I bought the vehicle last December and PO claimed that TB/WP had been replaced recently (I have the paperwork). Pretty sure the shop did some stuff wrong. Coolant leaking from WP and TB is shredded. Earlier this year I replaced the fan pulley bracket and the belt/wp looked in perfect condition. No reason this should have happened.

I checked the cylinder heads with a borescope and they look unscathed. Is it true that the 1998-1999 2UZ-FE is non-interference? Based on the photos below do you think I can get away with throwing on a new belt, lining up the marks, and giving it a shot?

I am stuck in the mountains of North Carolina (near Brevard) and have to get home by Sunday for work.
20210704_203452.jpg
20210704_203418.jpg
20210704_203500.jpg

Really appreciate all your threads and expertise @2001LC and @Timmy65

Any advice/tools/parts recommendations are welcome.
 
Help! Yesterday driving in the mountains my 1999 LX470 2UZ-FE started squealing from the TB chamber. I pulled over just in time to hear the belt snap. I shut off the engine and coasted in neutral to the side of the road. I plan to order everything I need to fix it asap.

I bought the vehicle last December and PO claimed that TB/WP had been replaced recently (I have the paperwork). Pretty sure the shop did some stuff wrong. Coolant leaking from WP and TB is shredded. Earlier this year I replaced the fan pulley bracket and the belt/wp looked in perfect condition. No reason this should have happened.

I checked the cylinder heads with a borescope and they look unscathed. Is it true that the 1998-1999 2UZ-FE is non-interference? Based on the photos below do you think I can get away with throwing on a new belt, lining up the marks, and giving it a shot?

I am stuck in the mountains of North Carolina (near Brevard) and have to get home by Sunday for work.
View attachment 2722405View attachment 2722404View attachment 2722406
Really appreciate all your threads and expertise @2001LC and @Timmy65

Any advice/tools/parts recommendations are welcome.
*should* be ok, but I would want to know what caused the belt to disintegrate. Possibly a pulley seized, idler, tensioner, or WP. I would replace everything: TB, WP, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, tensioner (ie, the Aisin TKT-021 kit).
 
*should* be ok, but I would want to know what caused the belt to disintegrate. Possibly a pulley seized, idler, tensioner, or WP. I would replace everything: TB, WP, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, tensioner (ie, the Aisin TKT-021 kit).
That's the plan. The whole AISIN kit (TKT-021).

From the squealing I assume a pulley seized. Probably was not replaced during the last TB job.
 
I doubt damaged belt caused any interference (damage to valves or pistons).

Some thoughts on possible cause:
Low mileage WP leak is not common unless a defective WP. I suppose if coolant to low, it could damage water pump. Which would be low enough to cause overheating
All to often, Dealerships do not replace pulleys. So pulley freeze up very possible.
Mouse door left off. The little plastic shield behind fan bracket or WP. Rodent nest or other debris in belt area.
 
I doubt damaged belt caused any interference (damage to valves or pistons).

Some thoughts on possible cause:
Low mileage WP leak is not common unless a defective WP. I suppose if coolant to low, it could damage water pump. Which would be low enough to cause overheating
All to often, Dealerships do not replace pulleys. So pulley freeze up very possible.
Mouse door left off. The little plastic shield behind fan bracket or WP. Rodent nest or other debris in belt area.
My best guess is faulty WP. Rodent door was in place and coolant has been meticulously maintained at proper levels (by yours truly). Pulleys look old so possible seized pulley. I will update with further pictures when I replace the belt on Thursday/Friday.

Thanks, @2001LC
 
My best guess is faulty WP. Rodent door was in place and coolant has been meticulously maintained at proper levels (by yours truly). Pulleys look old so possible seized pulley. I will update with further pictures when I replace the belt on Thursday/Friday.

Thanks, @2001LC
If WP or either pulley it should be easy to tell which, just by spinning. Then there is also the tensioner to consider!

Be interesting to hear back, what was the cause :popcorn:
 
I'd say I found the problem....

I have a feeling the shop that replaced the TB/WP (allegedly) did not replace the pulleys.....just a feeling.

@2001LC @JunkCrzr89
20210708_111003.jpg
20210708_110946_001.jpg
20210708_110932.jpg


Time to get to work...

Patch
 
What are you basing that on?

Just a hunch, I'm no expert, but the pulley that decided to suddenly disassemble might point towards excessive age.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom