2nd t-case mount.... (1 Viewer)

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woody

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looking at options for a 2nd t-case mount for my D300....I know Texican does a really simple setup with the trans mount and the adapter, but the adapter I have doesn't have a mount included....

so, i looked at this option from Throttle Down Kustoms...should work with the aftermarket rear output on my D300...$60 for the ring, $80 if you add in the tabs and bushing....

any other possibilities out there? wanna avoid another busted trans housing....uugh...
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here's one that he had on facebook....Maybe Woody can describe how it broke...
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it was an expensive break....30-spline longfield (or related parts), rear driveshaft, and the trans case...

had to be from rotation at that point....I'd thrashed the rig REALLY hard in December, and am pretty sure all the bad stuff was from there....and just let go at Barnwell

My skid protects things quite well from contact and this occurred on a climb out of a ravine....made it easy the first two times, 3rd time was a charm...lol

https://forum.ih8mud.com/tx-white-t...woodys-break-twister-w-commentary-bailey.html for the vid-e-ooo
 
yea, it had to be cracked from before!..

what about running a second Poly Mount from the cross member up to the Front output? i think this would help with twisting more than the second rear mount..
 
yea, it had to be cracked from before!..

what about running a second Poly Mount from the cross member up to the Front output? i think this would help with twisting more than the second rear mount..


that is a very bad idea, all mounts need to be in a row aside from the motor mounts, any chassis flex with that situation will break the tranny STAT
 
I'm leaning towards either something custom to the bottom cover of the D300 or the clamp-mount and an additional crossmember....should be close enuf to the existing one to have minimal flex, and all 6 points of the cage and the entire tub is all welded to the frame for minimal flex past the a-hoop....

also chatted with Cam last nite and he suggested 'finning' the tranny case with 1/4" alum for added rigidity....believe that's a must-do....know a tig welder that can do it....
 
I tied mine together like Butch did and that worked for me, but I have the mounts to do it. The parts you show should fix the problem as well as finning thing which I am not sure of. By the parts, do the fix and meet us in Moab.
 
Moab?

Have a LOT of trips before then....gonna be at KOH in Johnson Valley in February :)
 
...because every modification needs a reason....based on the break, it's definitely a weight-of-the-case issue....

the 'smaller' area here will get finned on the new trans case....and it's a K case too, truck version, so heavier duty anyways...
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Longfield carnage pic...

stripped the splines on the inner shaft....INSIDE the 300M star....which is also stripped and junk....

love it :D
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Longfield carnage pic...

stripped the splines on the inner shaft....INSIDE the 300M star....which is also stripped and junk....

love it :D

Clean that out good and wipe the star down. Mine was very similar but there was a hair line crack that made the bell expand ant that was all it took. But damn, what it took to break mine was impressive. It took a 30 MPH impact that broke the steering arm and that made the tire come to a complete stop, it was a damn hard hit.
 
that drive shaft is also pritty nice

You should put that next to your award.:flipoff2:
 
Great Job Woody!
 
update?

uugh...D300 was cracked as well...first 700 I got was too 'early' in production (1986) so we had to track down a 1990 instead....first replacement D300 I track down is 1980, which is the oddball first year, and the output pattern is different for the AA parts i have...

not been a good couple weeks, pretty much anything that could go wrong, has....
 

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