2LTE EGR cap installation

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crushers

post ho
Joined
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Derwent Alberta
this is the caps that are supposed to even out the head to help prevent the cracking between the valves.

first remove the nuts holding the fuel filter and housing and lay it down out of the way. this gives easy access to the piping that you will be removing.
this is the location of the 3 sets of nuts you will need to remove.

the ones on the exhaust are a bit of a pain to get at, especially when the shop that installed the head missed the upper nut and the bottom was threaded on crooked... (butt heads).
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the pipe is easily accesable once the fuel filter and housing is removed. remove the 4 nuts holding the pipe on. keep the gasket below the throttle body but remove the 2 long studs. you will need 2 x 3/4" long bolts to install the cap.
the cap i got made up are a perfect fit and are ceramic coated.
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make sure you have pleanty of time on your hands in case a stud in the exhaust manifold decides to break, and then when you're taking the manifold out one on the head does too :doh:
BTDT on a nissan, man I hate those things.:flipoff2:
 
yah, i was concerned about that but all went well...
since the head was recently replaced the exhaust studs "should" be safe ro remove, never had to find out though...

remove the VSV valves and plate, you will need to reuse the one, the other is expendable.
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the nuts on the exhaust manifold side would have been fairly easy from up to but due to the circumstances i needed to get the impact gun on to the bottom nut, it was siezed on there pretty good.
once it was off a new plate and hte old gasket was installed using the original nuts.
now that side is complete.
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you will need to mount the VSV valve back to the block, i used a 90 degree plate but it is up to you how you mount it.
reinstall the fuel filter and you are done.

i have 25 of these blocking plates in stock...
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these are the parts you will be removing.
the most fun is getting the pipe from behind the head. if you remove the engine lift mount it makes it easier or if you seperate the pipe from the cast. i just worked it around till i got it out. it can be done.
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Good write up Wayne.

Since you left the one VSV valve in place I assume your butterfly is still functional for that nice smooth shutdown? I removed all my VSV's and concequently shutdown is a bit rough and shaky.

A bit of a digression but have you noticed any effect on your boost properties? Might be different on mine since it was a 2LTII but another effect of removing all the VSV's on mine has been a much smoother transition to/from boost. Not sure which of the 3 VSV's it was but one when you let off the throttle slightly the VSV I believe would cut air flow to the boost compensator and the boost switch resulting in a boost cut that was instant (ie 10 to 0), then when throttle was re-applied boost on was also quite instant (ie guage would go from 0 to 7 then wind up to 10) and you could feel the 'jolt'. Without the VSV's, boost winds up smoothly (winds up from 0 to 10) and as I ease off the pedal the boost now winds down smoothly as well. The result is a smoother feel, but I have had a slight reduction in fuel ecconomy since I made the mod, that may be due to the fact that the boost compensator is 'compensating' more than before since I am now rarely ever completely off boost.
 
thanks for the compliment.

i have no issues with the performance, it is all the same as before...

cheers
 
I'd heard before that removing the EGR system would actually make the turbo spool quicker and provide boost sooner.

did you notice anything like this wayne?
 
Enjoyed your write up Wayne.
Very informative..
 
Wow... I'm about to remove the s*** from my 2LT-II these days, and was a bit unsecure about what and how. Here you've explained it all...
Great, and thanks. :-)
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if it's not an -E then you probably have nothing to remove :D

Well, I don't have the E-version, but still I have the EGR-system, and a bunch of vacuum-stuff.
By removing the EGR-system I also get rid of some of the vacuum-things. The engine I bought also have a throttle sensor on the pump, but that I found out belongs to the AT, while I have a manual. Just don't need to connect it, and don't know if I bother to remove it.

Here you see the engine, and absolutely with the EGR-system. The guys are two good friends with bad habits.
Good friends.webp
 
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I had never seen that. Where does your truck/engine come from originally ?
Either way you now can remove the whole piping and all the vacuum lines and valves as well, only thing you will need is the boost compensator presure line that goes from the intake manifold to the injection pump.
 
I had never seen that. Where does your truck/engine come from originally ?

The car is sold new in Norway. The engine is imported by a partsdealer, and I guess it's from Portugal, Spain or the surroundings. I look forward to clean up a bit. :)

A little tip:
I'm still going to use the original glowsystem from the car (it's the easiest), so I had to change the glowplugs in the new 2LT-II engine and install the type that was mounted in the 2LT engine, because of the difference in the voltage they work with.
 
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Hi mates good day i followed the instruction in removal of egr but then i got a big problem after the removal of Whole EGR system there is a cloud of white smoke coming out of my exaust what could this be before removing the EgR system there were no smoke what seems to be the problem can anyone help me
 
Hi mates good day i followed the instruction in removal of egr but then i got a big problem after the removal of Whole EGR system there is a cloud of white smoke coming out of my exaust what could this be before removing the EgR system there were no smoke what seems to be the problem can anyone help me

Your engine is probably being starved of air which is causing the white smoke. I think this is because you also removed the VSV which controls the second throttle plate in the intake. This is ok, but you need to force the small secondary throttle to be open all the time. This will fix the smoke immediately. On my engine, I removed the large throttle plate completely which also fixes that problem, but you don't have to do this. Here is a picture showing the part I'm talking about. It is the shaft that sticks out of the throttle body at the bottom center of this picture. Mine is hanging free because I removed the throttle plate inside. But you will need to force yours open.
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