**********2LT-E TO 2LT-II SWAP ********* (1 Viewer)

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

Hey y'all, new the those forum here, have had a lot of help over the past couple weeks with my Hilux surf from this forum and I'm loving it. I've reached the point where I've got some questions noone has asked or I've failed to find. So registered a new account n here we go.


Got my 1993 surf, has 70k on it immaculate condition, with a 2LTE . It's already been messed with and the previous owner swapped the head to a Chinese replica 3L head and then timed it wrong and valves n pistons had an orgy. I've heard and seen enough about these motors to know their not the best. So instead of rebuilding it I started looking for the closest direct swap and ended up buying a low km 2LTII from a jdm importer in Montreal.


I've started the swap and everything seems straight forward enough, but I can already tell there is a few differences with the wiring harnesses. The new motor came with a full harness and ECU. So it's just a matter of .. I guess.. combining the two.

Now I can turn a wrench but this stuff is a but complex so I wanted to know if anyone has ever done this before and if there are any tips or writeups regarding this swap. Any tips or help will be GREATLY appreciated.


Hope to hear from you guys. Cheers .

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Is your surf auto or manual transmission? If auto, going to 2LT-II will be much harder, as the trans still needs the ECU to function properly. You'll have to buy an aftermarket trans controller or something. Will make things more complicated.

You can't put the electronic parts from the 2LTE onto the 2LT-II, because it doesn't have a crank position sensor, otherwise that would have been the easiest option.

Anyhow, your best bet is to read lots and look at the tech info on the Aus Hilux Surf page. People have done this same swap over there, and they have lots of tech info such as wiring. In theory going from the electronic to the mechanical injection engines should result in much less wiring. http://www.toyotasurf.asn.au/forum/

The 2LT-II does have an emissions computer and some similar sensors/VSVs to the 2LTE, but it can all be ripped off. Get rid of the EGR system too. I'd also get rid of the throttle butterfly. I had an OEM 1990 2LT-II 5spd Hilux Surf for a little while. Might have some pictures around.

If the motor you bought still has the original cylinder head (flawed), you should also consider buying the proper replacement upgraded cylinder head from Toyota. Then you'll have years of trouble free operation. Big investment, but worth the peace of mind. Make sure you get the timing belt right, LOL. I've beat the heck out of my 2LTE for the last 8 years and had no problems with the head.

 

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

Hey thanks for replying, first off sorry I forgot to mention my surf is manual, and the engine also came from a manual transmission application, not sure what it came out of, and it has a manual transmission ecu as well with it.



Thanks for the link to the other forums I'm gonna binge those threads

Cheerss

 

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

Hey y'all, I didn't get much of a response from anyone. plz help guys. My dumb 25 year old ass has spent over 7k CAD on this truck and have been wrenchin for weeks, only to have it not start PLZ HELP.


I've got the engine in the truck and I modified the harness so that everything plugs in. However I've noticed some differences in my engine. Compared to the 2LTE that was in it, first off mechanical injection pump and alot of stuff is either missing or has been intentionally deleted. The EGR has been removed and blocked off, there are no butterfly valves in the intake, there is just a solid spacer on the intake manifold where there would be a butterfly valve for the EGR system.

The injection pump itself does not have the ASDC or w.e it's called, ( the thing that has coolant lines running to it ) neither does it have any EGR stuff on it. It has one boost compensator on the top with a vacum line going nowhere. I can't seem to make sence of the vacum lines either, the EGR us not there anymore and I'm struggling to understand where this compensator would get either boost/vacum that it needs.


The injection pump itself has only 2 connectors, one is a 1 pin, and the other is 2 pin. I have no idea what these are for. Some sort of fuel cut and spill valve connectors? The harness has a 2 wire section that the previous owner has cut off and one of the wires goes to the single pin connector on the injection pump. The other has just been cut and goes nowhere kinda dangles in the wind.

There are a few other connectors that I've found homes for on the deleted EGR stuff.

Basically every plug in for a connector that the engine physically has on it, has been plugged in .


Went to try and start the truck and nothing. It cranks and cranks and cranks but no sign of firing. See white smoke seeping out of the exhaust but just barely, seems like my engines not getting any fuel. It has good compression.


Im stumped as to why or which wires go where and im having alot of trouble finding info on the wires that go to the injection pump.

ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

Also if this thread would be better suited somewhere else please let me know or link the thread , thank-you everyone for taking the time to read this essay lol.

 

[Dprio34]

@Hilixsurf93bigb , You posted in the middle of the night.. most members are in bed at that time. lol.
Now that is it morning, you will probably get more responses.
Have you bled your fuel lines at the head. If you haven't tried that, I would start there. Crack all (4) lines, crank the engine a few seconds until you see fuel coming out. Tighten each fuel line accordingly.

Let us know if that works.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

You really should find the schematics for the mechanical injection LN130 Surf and it would show you everything. I know they're out there. Check the Hilux Surf Au Tech site.

Your injection pump has a fuel cutoff solenoid in the top of the pump head (cast iron part that injector lines come out of). This must get power or your injectors will not get any fuel. You can temporarily connect 12V direct from the battery (maybe use a fuse in line just in case) to get it going for a test. Test the solenoid resistance ahead of time to make sure you get the wires right.

Your injection pump probably also has an output for your tachometer. This would be the other wire(s).

The vacuum system should be very simple:

- Your boost compensator needs to connect to a nipple at the intake manifold so that as your boost rises, the injection pump adds more fuel to compensate. There should be a little filter in line to keep oil and crap from getting into your boost comp. This same system also connects to a boost sensor which will light up the little LED in your dash when your engine is making boost. So the vacuum line should t off somewhere.

- You also have a vacuum pump on your alternator which creates vacuum for all the emissions and 4wd VSVs, as well as your brake booster. This is a SEPARATE system to the boost comp system. Don't connect the two! Make sure the vacuum pump is connected to all these items.

You can find vacuum line diagrams on Megazip EPC drawings if you look up the mechanical injection Hilux Surf.

Make sure you cap off and/or remove any unused boost/vacuum line hoses!

 

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

Thank-you so much guys, I did bleed the lines last night but I did it again today and after stuttering a bit she did fire up.

Thankyou for your input guys. I really appreciate it.

The vacuum lines are what I aim to tackle next, I have all the old EGR crap and I'm hoping too make something out of it comes connecting all the vital stuff and leave the rest off .

 

[Dprio34]

@Hilixsurf93bigb, I just did this job. Get some 3.5mm vacuum hose. and (2) tees, and a Filter.
Easy.. 10 minutes after you have all the parts.
Filter Part # 90917-11033
See attached pics.

Keep in mind, this is for a 2L-TII dropped into a 1989 LJ70.
You may not need the tee off to the turbo boost sensors in your set up.
You may be able to get by with just vacuum hose from Intake to "gas filter" to Injection Pump..
In the very, very, very short-term, you may just run vacuum hose from Intake Manifold to IP to see if it runs any smoother.
Not exactly familiar with what is under the hood of your vehicle.. you didn't post any pics (not sure if you have those sensor or not).

 

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

Okay guys, so I have been tinkering away, it starts up, but it struggles to start. I have routed the boost compensator vacuum lines and the other ones as well after looking at a bunch of diagrams and the pictures you sent.

I will take pics of the setup soon here and post them

Dpeio34 I read your whole thread when I started my swap and it was very informative, Once again I appreciate the help!

The truck will start and run but it idles very rough at first when started. And then it seems as if it's has issues revving up it's just running very rough.

Is there anything you would recommend for me to do next?

 

[Dprio34]

If you remove all the EGR crap, blank off the back of the exhaust manifold, and remove the butterfly valve going to the intake, I would think things would smooth out a bit.

If it is only running rough initially, maybe check the glow plugs / Super-Glow System.

Keep us posted.

 

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

If you remove all the EGR crap, blank off the back of the exhaust manifold, and remove the butterfly valve going to the intake, I would think things would smooth out a bit.

If it is only running rough initially, maybe check the glow plugs / Super-Glow System.

Keep us posted.

The butterfly valves and ASDC system has been removed already by the previous owner. However the EGR pipes where still on Wich was odd to me, however I had blank off plates from the old engine that I installed on the new one and got rid of all of the EGR crap. The crossover pipe and the smaller one, vacume system, everything is gone.


How would I know if my glow system is gone bad, apart from. The light not comming on, Wich it does, it comes on for about 1 or 2 seconds and then clicks off.

Another thing I noticed is the check engine light is on solid. From the minute the key goes into the on position it turns on and stays on

 

[Dprio34]

I'd pull out all 4 plugs first... inspect them. If they look burnt up/beat up, I'd replace.
If your engine is still running rough after 5-10 minutes at this time of the year, it probably is not the super-glow system and more likely a fuel/air issue.

Have you already replaced the vacuum hose from the Intake Manifold to Boost Compensator?
Definitely do that if you haven't already.

Can you see the part number on your Injection Pump? You mentioned it may not be stock/ or didn't have coolant lines going to it.
Verify Injection Pump part number to make sure that Injection Pump pairs with that motor. I can't imagine it was changed, but you never know. My 2LTII Injection Pump has coolant lines, Part # 22100-5B280. Not sure about other 2L-TII motors.

Another possibility... have you changed the Timing Belt? Do you know when the timing belt was changed last? Probably not. But it may be worth popping off the cover of the (water pump/oil pump/timing belt) and verify everything is lined up as it should be. Definitely worth changing while you have everything apart and check that off of the things you need to do.
Timing Belt Part Number: #13568-YZZ01

I would check those things first. Other than those things... If the problem persists, it is beyond my skill set.

 

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

Hey, so I've taken what you said into consideration, the timing belt I did before I put the motor in the truck.

I replaced the line going to the boost compensator with a filter on it. Very similar to your set up. Except I didn't attach the line to the turbo light. I didn't know what it looks like n I have a bunch of little vacuum sensors in a box. Do u have a pic of the boost light vacum sensor?

Engine runs and warms up and then idles good. However when I go to rev the engine or take it around the block it doesn't rev up to more then 3k and seems very sluggish and slow. Also my speedo isn't working, would you happen to know Wich sensor on the trans is for the speed ?


Will tinker more tonight and read the engine light that's been on. Thank-you for your help once again

 

[Dprio34]

@Hilixsurf93bigb ,
I personally never run my engine past 3000 rpm.
Peak TQ on this little motor is 2400 RPM I believe.
You may be able to squeeze a couple more ponies above 3000 rpm, but without knowing the history of that motor, I personally wouldn't. Risk management type thing... do the benefits of a couple ponies really outweigh the downside of something going wrong?

You may have jumped a tooth on your timing belt when you first started it up. That may explain some of the rough running.
That has been know to happen on this motor.
Did you crank the motor by hand at the crank bolt 5-10 times prior to closing everything back up?
(just a possibility if things seem to be running rough).

RPM setup on your vehicle that previously had a 2L-TE in it, I'm guessing has a different setup on the plug-in
in the back of the RPM gauge. I'm sure someone else will steer you correctly on that... but pretty sure that is the problem.
RPM could have gone through the computer / Crank position sensor prior to sending the signal to your gauge.. just a guess.

Low/High Boost Sensors are the 3rd pic I sent of the 3 above.
Low Boost Light (Green( should come on around 1.6 psi of Boost... generally that happens around 1800 rpm-ishhh in first gear.
High Boost Light (Red) almost never comes on unless you are going up a really big hill at around 10 psi.
Booth of these little lights are on the RPM Gauge on a 1989 LJ70. Not sure about your truck.

Anyway... sounds like things are improving and progress is being made.
Glad to be of some help.
Don

 

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

Hey y'all so the surf seems to be running healthy.

It's slow and gutless but blows no smoke and after a rough cold start it smooths out and idles and runs good.

I do have an engine light and after checking the codes I have a bunch as follows

Code 4- coolant temp sensor. Straightforward I believe I have replaced it.

Code 5- this one concerns me a little. It says correction resistance (pump) . I did some research and I can understand how that would happen with the electronic pump but I have a manual one, does this mean I have to adjust its timing and set it differently? Any help would be appreciated

Code 7- throttle position sensor, to my understanding once again this was part of the EGR and it's been removed, so unsure how I would fix this code at all

Code 8- intake air temperature sensor. I'm not sure where to start with this one, there seems to be no sensor apart from one right by the airbox is this what it's referencing here ?

Code 11- switch sign, P or N or AC on. I don't know where to start with this either but I do have the AC compressor out still. I didn't install it yet it's just sitting on the bench


And lastly my speedo is not working as well as the ODOMETER.... On a truck that I bought due to the fact it has unbelievable low kms. 67000.. this is a huge bummer. Nevertheless I would like to fix it and I know the speed sensor is on the trans but if that don't work where would I look to next.

Thank-you once again guys. If y'all have the time any help would be appreciated.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hey y'all so the surf seems to be running healthy.

It's slow and gutless but blows no smoke and after a rough cold start it smooths out and idles and runs good.

I do have an engine light and after checking the codes I have a bunch as follows

Code 4- coolant temp sensor. Straightforward I believe I have replaced it.

Code 5- this one concerns me a little. It says correction resistance (pump) . I did some research and I can understand how that would happen with the electronic pump but I have a manual one, does this mean I have to adjust its timing and set it differently? Any help would be appreciated

Code 7- throttle position sensor, to my understanding once again this was part of the EGR and it's been removed, so unsure how I would fix this code at all

Code 8- intake air temperature sensor. I'm not sure where to start with this one, there seems to be no sensor apart from one right by the airbox is this what it's referencing here ?

Code 11- switch sign, P or N or AC on. I don't know where to start with this either but I do have the AC compressor out still. I didn't install it yet it's just sitting on the bench


And lastly my speedo is not working as well as the ODOMETER.... On a truck that I bought due to the fact it has unbelievable low kms. 67000.. this is a huge bummer. Nevertheless I would like to fix it and I know the speed sensor is on the trans but if that don't work where would I look to next.

Thank-you once again guys. If y'all have the time any help would be appreciated.

You swapped to a mechanical injection diesel, and are checking ECU error codes for an electronic engine that is no longer there? Of course you're going to get some errors! Most of those sensors don't exist on your new engine!

 

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

You swapped to a mechanical injection diesel, and are checking ECU error codes for an electronic engine that is no longer there? Of course you're going to get some errors! Most of those sensors don't exist on your new engine!

You swapped to a mechanical injection diesel, and are checking ECU error codes for an electronic engine that is no longer there? Of course you're going to get some errors! Most of those sensors don't exist on your new engine!

Lol no I know, but I was a little confused because I have the ECU that came with this engine plugged in. Shouldn't it recognize that it's engine doesn't have those sensors?

If not how can I clear the engine light!?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Lol no I know, but I was a little confused because I have the ECU that came with this engine plugged in. Shouldn't it recognize that it's engine doesn't have those sensors?

If not how can I clear the engine light!?

Ah, I see. I'm surprised it used the same connectors? I think at this point I'd have to compare schematics for the two engines before I could really suggest anything. As far as I know, your new ECU is only for controlling the emissions system, thus may not really be needed. Does the motor run without it installed?

 

[Hilixsurf93bigb]

Ah, I see. I'm surprised it used the same connectors? I think at this point I'd have to compare schematics for the two engines before I could really suggest anything. As far as I know, your new ECU is only for controlling the emissions system, thus may not really be needed. Does the motor run without it installed?

Yes it's odd, it has me even more puzzled that when comparing the ECUs.. the part number and every other number is the exact same on both.

It litterally has the same exact ECU..

The harness had a few different plugs on it, mainly for the transmission. But apart from that the harness was the same as well.

This really is odd to me. I have a feeling maybe someone swapped the EFI pump for a mechanical one at some point .

Any way if there is a way that someone knows, to just get rid of the engine light i wud be just as satisfied cuz it runs pretty good .

Look forward to hearing more

Here's a beauty shot of the Hilux for y'all

This leads me to believe maybe the engine is a 2LTE but had a mechanical pump installed

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Yes it's odd, it has me even more puzzled that when comparing the ECUs.. the part number and every other number is the exact same on both.

It litterally has the same exact ECU..

The harness had a few different plugs on it, mainly for the transmission. But apart from that the harness was the same as well.

This really is odd to me. I have a feeling maybe someone swapped the EFI pump for a mechanical one at some point .

Any way if there is a way that someone knows, to just get rid of the engine light i wud be just as satisfied cuz it runs pretty good .

Look forward to hearing more

Here's a beauty shot of the Hilux for y'all

This leads me to believe maybe the engine is a 2LTE but had a mechanical pump installed

View attachment 2470151

Ahhh, yeah, that would make sense. I definitely sounds like someone put a mechanical pump onto a 2LTE. The only way to get rid of your check engine light would be to put an electronic pump back in. Or, disconnect the light in the dash, lol. You could do a Homer Simpson and put a piece of black electrical tape over it, haha.

Nice looking truck!