Builds 2L-T vs 2L-TII LJ70 Build (3 Viewers)

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hi Nick and Everybody!

I've got the 2.4TD 2LTII engine in my 1990's LC. The engine has been washed 2-3 times in the last 3 weeks and now it's sure, we have to take off the cylinder head, because the oil is leaking from that area (in the front at the left side, where the engine number is, in the rear at both sides). I hope it's only a faulty gasket, because it hasn't got any coolant loss, power is constant and the engine starts and runs smooth.

1. I'm on the way to order the parts like engine overhaul gasket kit, cylinder bolts- and gasket. What do you think? Should I buy original parts, or are Elring/Victor Reinz parts good as well?

2. I've got some manuals for the car. But I'm not sure which one to use because the bolt torquing powers are not the same. Manual 1.: three passes tighting, torquing (118Nm) on the final pass. Manual 2.: 1. pass torquing with 78Nm, 2. pass 90° retighting, 3. pass additional 90° retighting.

3. Can I find somewhere a correct manual for the engine 2LTII?

It's possible the cylinder head has been replaced in the past and not torqued correctly. Even some Toyota OEM cylinder heads seem to need a re-torque.

Based on your description, I'd highly recommend trying to re-torque the head before going through the effort of removing it entirely. A friend of mine retorqued his 1HDT head (also because of a small oil leak), and it fixed his problem entirely. This would save you a LOT of effort.

RM520E and RM582E at this link are the manuals that cover the 2LT-II engine. Cylinder head torque figures in that manual are correct. It's a real work out! Help! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help.1191714/#post-12892663

 

[Dprio34]

@HP96 , most all the manuals are listed on this forum...I’m still away from home, so I don’t have my manuals at hand.

I personally would stick with Toyota gaskets and bolts. Like you said, let’s hope it is just the gasket.

 

[HP96]

It's possible the cylinder head has been replaced in the past and not torqued correctly. Even some Toyota OEM cylinder heads seem to need a re-torque.

Based on your description, I'd highly recommend trying to re-torque the head before going through the effort of removing it entirely. A friend of mine retorqued his 1HDT head (also because of a small oil leak), and it fixed his problem entirely. This would save you a LOT of effort.

RM520E and RM582E at this link are the manuals that cover the 2LT-II engine. Cylinder head torque figures in that manual are correct. It's a real work out! Help! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help.1191714/#post-12892663

Thank you for the answer and the links. Here are 2 photos of the head. 1. What does this number means? Maybe a “remastered“ head? 2. Here you can see the oil leaking. Eventually there is something more than oil, maybe the mechanic used some paste too, not only the gasket?

OK, you say, re-torque the head. How do you mean it? It’s a bit complicated because if the bolts have been torqued by the 3 pass way (1 - torque with 78Nm, 2 - 90° retighting, 3 - additional 90° retighting), what is the torque force to do the retorque progress? Or should we loose the bolts in the correct order and do the retorque progress from the beginning?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thank you for the answer and the links. Here are 2 photos of the head. 1. What does this number means? Maybe a “remastered“ head? 2. Here you can see the oil leaking. Eventually there is something more than oil, maybe the mechanic used some paste too, not only the gasket?

OK, you say, re-torque the head. How do you mean it? It’s a bit complicated because if the bolts have been torqued by the 3 pass way (1 - torque with 78Nm, 2 - 90° retighting, 3 - additional 90° retighting), what is the torque force to do the retorque progress? Or should we loose the bolts in the correct order and do the retorque progress from the beginning?

I can't say definitively about the numbers you have identified. Many people have asked about how to identify various L series heads, but no one seems to have an answer.

Your oil leak doesn't seem bad? Is that the only spot? Are you certain it's not seeping from the valve cover or front cam seal area? If it was me, I'd almost be inclined to leave it alone, and just monitor it once in a while.

Regarding re-torque procedure, that is an excellent question. I'll ask my friend with the 1HDT how he did it. He is a machinist and very detail oriented, so will have good advice I'm sure.

 

[HP96]

I can't say definitively about the numbers you have identified. Many people have asked about how to identify various L series heads, but no one seems to have an answer.

Your oil leak doesn't seem bad? Is that the only spot? Are you certain it's not seeping from the valve cover or front cam seal area? If it was me, I'd almost be inclined to leave it alone, and just monitor it once in a while.

Regarding re-torque procedure, that is an excellent question. I'll ask my friend with the 1HDT how he did it. He is a machinist and very detail oriented, so will have good advice I'm sure.

I think the oil leak is more than acceptable and I monitor it since more than 4.500km. The oil ”runs” through the block until the oil pan and from there it reaches the tie rod assy. As I mentioned there are two points of leaking: one point is in the area around the engine number (here is the right side not affected), the other point is at the back of the head, here are both sides affected. The valve cover is clean, no sign of oil. I’m not a mechanic so I didn’t looked under the timing gear cover to check the cam seal area.

What do you think? Could it be a crack without other symptoms like oil leaking?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I think the oil leak is more than acceptable and I monitor it since more than 4.500km. The oil ”runs” through the block until the oil pan and from there it reaches the tie rod assy. As I mentioned there are two points of leaking: one point is in the area around the engine number (here is the right side not affected), the other point is at the back of the head, here are both sides affected. The valve cover is clean, no sign of oil. I’m not a mechanic so I didn’t looked under the timing gear cover to check the cam seal area.

What do you think? Could it be a crack without other symptoms like oil leaking?

Maybe we should move this to a different thread so as not to side track @Dprio34 's build thread too much? I'll give one final comment here.

My valve cover looks clean from the top right now too, but is causing a bad oil leak all down one side of my engine (I've been meaning to deal with it). For the longest time I thought the leak was from elsewhere, but realized a couple months ago it was actually the valve cover. So in your case, it's possible too.

Main thing you should watch for at the headgasket is bubbles of oil when the motor is running. That would definitely indicate it was the headgasket. If I had to guess from your pictures, I'd suggest the leak is not your headgasket though. I've never heard of a crack in a 2LTE causing this sort of oil leak either.

 

[TLC Norway]

Thanks for that Alexy, I appreciate it.
Any idea why "24 volts" stamped on the Volts gauge?
Same gauge both 12v and 24v systems?

I have come across 24v marked gauges in 12v LJ70/73 before, clearly stock.
It's been ok, but for some many of them have the same oil gauge issues.

I decided to make a face for the 3 gauges I purchased and go for a more stock look.
ABS Stock is 1/4" and the template is 25mm at the bottom, 22mm at the top, and 18mm wide.

Additionally, I found decent option for 3rd hole of Instrument Cluster.
While the first 2 gauges are 55mm, the center one is 60mm, but so far this gets a thumbs up for value and versatility. I installed this GPS gauge that reads in MPH or KMPH or NMPH for those water crossings. It also has a volts gauge, odometer, and built in clock. So far, I'm more than happy with it. Takes less than a minute to get a lock on the satellites.

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Interesting with that 60mm gauge! Do you still enjoy it?
If so, what type/brand is it?

Cool build!
If you need any tech reference from a lhd 73 or 70 with the 2LT I have a couple of them.

Pål

 

[Dprio34]

@TLC Norway , Pal, I still have the 60mm GPS Speedo, and it's still running strong. Sorry for the late reply. I don't remember off hand what brand it is. I'll look around to see if I can find it.

 

[HP96]

My Relays have a bit more age than Nick's.

That said, I have concluded my glow plug voltage problem lies with the either the Current Sensor or Timer Realy or how the two interface with the Main Relay.

Main Relay passed all tests from page ST-4 of the service manual.
My Timer Relay, is the goldish colored square next to the fuel filter above left wheel well.
It is a self contained PFM self contained unit, that I don't feel like breaking trying to pry it open.

I get 11.5 volts on Baterry Post of the Main relay and Zero volts at the other post that has the lead for the glow plug rail post (at all times).

The main relay will not release any voltage to the glow plug rail, so I will bypass the Super Glow System all together.

Here are some pics of the Super Glow System that will get Bypassed.

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Dprio! As I see the cap assy of your brake master reservoir filler doesn't have got the sensor too... What did you do with that?