2f TDC

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Oct 31, 2011
Threads
34
Messages
81
Location
Grants pass OR.
So is tdc on a 75 2f when both #1 piston valves are open. And we're do I point the distributor rotor when installing a new distributor? Or if I'm wrong how do I find tdc. I'm at my wits end with motor and this new hei I got... Nothing seems to work.

1974 fj40,4' man a fre lift,4+ winch bumper,
 
tdc can be found on the flywheel too. look through the lookout on the bellhousing on the pass side engine compartment. rotate crank till the BB hits the arrow. Thats TDC or take out number 1 spark plug and bring piston to top of cylinder. That will get you close to tdc.
If you are looking to obtain tdc? you want to have your rotor pointing at number 1.
 
On your flwheel are two marks. One is a BB and to the left of that is a line. The BB is 7* before top dead center and is your timing mark. The line is top dead center and is used for valve adjustment. When installing your dissy the rotor will be pointing to the no. 1 on your dist. cap and the line on the flywheel should be aligned with the little pointer in the window where you view your fly wheel. I think a lot of confusion on where your rotor is pointing is because when the rotor is pointing at the no. 1 on you r cap, the no.1 on the cap is actually in line with the No. 4 spark plug on your engine. There are better discriptions by other posters but hope this helps.
 
TDC is when the #1 piston is all the way at the top of the cylinder and both valves are closed.

So is tdc on a 75 2f when both #1 piston valves are open. And we're do I point the distributor rotor when installing a new distributor? Or if I'm wrong how do I find tdc. I'm at my wits end with motor and this new hei I got... Nothing seems to work.

1974 fj40,4' man a fre lift,4+ winch bumper,
 
Ok so I finnaly got it set, and it still wasn't work but I thought. That I might be 180 out so I switched my wires around and it runs and starts great!! But is it bad to run it 180 out all the time? And when I shut it off it takes a few seconds to shut off, would that be that it's advanced to much?

1974 fj40,4' man a fre lift,4+ winch bumper,
 
! But is it bad to run it 180 out all the time?

And when I shut it off it takes a few seconds to shut off, would that be that it's advanced to much?


Nope. Engine doesn't care.

Yup, could be.
 
Just to confirm the marks are right, I have put a plastic straw or piece of thin wood dowel into the #1 sparkplug hole and as I turned the crank watched it get pushed out of the hole until it stopped. I then confirmed that both valves were closed, and then looked at the flywheel window.
 
TDC happens twice in each complete cycle of a four-cycle engine like the 2F, once on the compression stroke and once on the exhaust stroke. You must install the distributor with the #1 cylinder at or near TDC on the compression stroke, i.e. with both valves closed.
 
looking for confirmation on TDC, this thread has it on the BB and also on the line. Which is true? I have a 79' wont start...
 
this is where i am pointed with marker lined up with line on flywheel. points to 2 o’clock

E3592FFA-4FB2-4433-AC59-6F586D5B9BB8.jpeg
 
Hello. I’m hoping someone can help me understand the FSM. How can the piston be at top dead center if I line up the fly wheel at 7 degrees before top dead center?

It's not, but it's only seven degrees of rotation (out of 360 degrees, a little less than 1/50 of the circle) before top dead center, which is hardly anything at all. You wouldn't be able to tell the difference without the flywheel marks. If you want absolute TDC then you would put the TDC line on the flywheel under the pointer in the window. Note how close on the flywheel the TDC line is to the 7 degrees BTDC timing ball. So, at 7 degrees BTDC both valves are still closed on cylinder #1.
 
It's not, but it's only seven degrees of rotation (out of 360 degrees, a little less than 1/50 of the circle) before top dead center, which is hardly anything at all. You wouldn't be able to tell the difference without the flywheel marks. If you want absolute TDC then you would put the TDC line on the flywheel under the pointer in the window. Note how close on the flywheel the TDC line is to the 7 degrees BTDC timing ball. So, at 7 degrees BTDC both valves are still closed on cylinder #1.
I agree with you, and was thinking the same. And I like your estimation of the number.

I am just removing a modified 3Fe distributor on my 75 FJ40 that is no longer supported by AFI and returning to OEM. So - my reason for understanding the nuance is to noodle out if the 3Fe distributor is in correctly.

Appreciate you response.
 
While you are at it, you may want to consider putting a dab or two of white paint on your TDC line on the flywheel as well as on the BB. It makes them really visible you are trying to find TDC. Although there are lots of recommendations, I found using a 46mm Crow’s Foot Wrench on the Crankshaft Pulley Nut makes easy work for rotating the flywheel.
 
While you are at it, you may want to consider putting a dab or two of white paint on your TDC line on the flywheel as well as on the BB. It makes them really visible you are trying to find TDC. Although there are lots of recommendations, I found using a 46mm Crow’s Foot Wrench on the Crankshaft Pulley Nut makes easy work for rotating the flywheel.
LOL. Already did. And great suggestion Did it real nice for tuning the AFI setup at top dead center ( per their specs) and - when I tried to do just the bubble for 7 degrees - well. There’s. HUGE white mark there now.

Oh well.

I’ll see if I can get a 46mm at harbor freight. Bumping this rig isn’t as easy as my 74 TR6 nor my 78 Dodge colt.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom