Hi,
I've been reading this site for many months ago and decide to join in because i can read so much info here.
First, English is not quite common in here (Indonesia) so forgive me for my bad english and maybe some of you find it difficult to understand what i write.
Second, i like to share my experience when i pull out my webber DCN40 and put Holley Pro-Jection 2D with analog fuel controller that basically for V8 engine in 2F.
To make TBI fit with stock 2F intake manifold i made Aluminium adaptor about 1 inch thick (forgot to take a picture) and directly bolt on TBI unit on top of aluminium adaptor. Between Intake manifold and Aluminium adaptor, i still use stock insulator.
I fit it that way because it is easier for me to set the TPS when it needed to.
J30 300 psi for fuel line and smaller size for return line (grey color).
Installing the cables, fuel pump, fuel filter, ECT and mount the fuel controller regarding the installation manual.
I decide to choose the Small block fuel map by pressing the switch inside the Fuel controller but I hook up the pink wire to Ignition switch so it get current only when i crank the engine (contrary from the manual instalation that pink wire must hook up to negative ground when small block fuel map chosen).
After all the cables and fuel line installed, i turn the switch on and the fuel pump is running for about 5 second then stop. I turn on and off couple time to push away the air from fuel line and Check the leakage that may occur.
Set the Fuel pressure bit higher than holley recomends (but it works fine with 15 psi as holley recomend).
Then it is time to first crank.
The engine idle perfectly, only it idle too high. I let the engine idle until it reach its working temp. According to the manual, I turn the idle screw counter clockwise to lower the idle rpm until it reach 600 - 700 rpm.
Turn the engine off.
Set the TPS 0,63 - 0,69 volt. I'm using digital AVO meter because the analog AVO cant provide accurate measurement. It is something that you have to do precisely because too high voltage makes the engine runs too rich so even when you turn the "main" knob at the Fuel controller all the way off it still run rich.
At the first measurement i found that the TPS wont give me lower than 0,75 volt so i grind the adjusting screw holes. Now the TPS can lower down to 0,57 volt.
Crank the engine and it idle very smooth at 600 rpm. After it reach working temp, i drive it and make adjustment at the fuel controller knob just like manual tells.
It is runs very poor. Hesitation, sputtering, weak pull, black smoke and it begin firing at exhaust. I try to lower down all the knob by small increment and it begin firing at TBI unit. Nothing I can do to make it runs better until i heared strange sound from fuel pump. It is like the pump is screaming trying to push fuel to make sufficient pressure to atomizing the fuel.
I play with throtle when inspecting fuel spray at nozzle. I think I Found the problem... Fuel not SPRAY, it is sometimes DRIP, sometimes do not eject fuel and sometimes the spray pattern is different between two nozzle.
I change Holley pump with Bosch pump that can provide continuous 40 psi when needed.
The Bosch pump instalation required bigger Fuel Hose diameter at the inlet and same diameter at ex compared to Holley pump.
After finishing new pump intalation, i rechecked the fuel pressure to make sure it is not overpressure because the nozzle wont open when it overpressure.
Cranks the engine...it idle very smooth...
With Fuel controller knob at default position, the engine pull very strong. All hesitation, stumbling, black smoke, sputtering gone away.
It only need small adjusment at fuel controller to make it run better.
I'm very happy with the final result. I'm not affraid with extreme angle anymore.
Along with KC859 Delta camshaft it makes noticable different.
Probably, Holley pro-jection is the best mod i ever done.
Here's short video my 2F run with Pro-Jection.
VID 00004 20110928 1225 - YouTube
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Cheers
I've been reading this site for many months ago and decide to join in because i can read so much info here.
First, English is not quite common in here (Indonesia) so forgive me for my bad english and maybe some of you find it difficult to understand what i write.
Second, i like to share my experience when i pull out my webber DCN40 and put Holley Pro-Jection 2D with analog fuel controller that basically for V8 engine in 2F.
To make TBI fit with stock 2F intake manifold i made Aluminium adaptor about 1 inch thick (forgot to take a picture) and directly bolt on TBI unit on top of aluminium adaptor. Between Intake manifold and Aluminium adaptor, i still use stock insulator.
I fit it that way because it is easier for me to set the TPS when it needed to.
J30 300 psi for fuel line and smaller size for return line (grey color).
Installing the cables, fuel pump, fuel filter, ECT and mount the fuel controller regarding the installation manual.
I decide to choose the Small block fuel map by pressing the switch inside the Fuel controller but I hook up the pink wire to Ignition switch so it get current only when i crank the engine (contrary from the manual instalation that pink wire must hook up to negative ground when small block fuel map chosen).
After all the cables and fuel line installed, i turn the switch on and the fuel pump is running for about 5 second then stop. I turn on and off couple time to push away the air from fuel line and Check the leakage that may occur.
Set the Fuel pressure bit higher than holley recomends (but it works fine with 15 psi as holley recomend).
Then it is time to first crank.
The engine idle perfectly, only it idle too high. I let the engine idle until it reach its working temp. According to the manual, I turn the idle screw counter clockwise to lower the idle rpm until it reach 600 - 700 rpm.
Turn the engine off.
Set the TPS 0,63 - 0,69 volt. I'm using digital AVO meter because the analog AVO cant provide accurate measurement. It is something that you have to do precisely because too high voltage makes the engine runs too rich so even when you turn the "main" knob at the Fuel controller all the way off it still run rich.
At the first measurement i found that the TPS wont give me lower than 0,75 volt so i grind the adjusting screw holes. Now the TPS can lower down to 0,57 volt.
Crank the engine and it idle very smooth at 600 rpm. After it reach working temp, i drive it and make adjustment at the fuel controller knob just like manual tells.
It is runs very poor. Hesitation, sputtering, weak pull, black smoke and it begin firing at exhaust. I try to lower down all the knob by small increment and it begin firing at TBI unit. Nothing I can do to make it runs better until i heared strange sound from fuel pump. It is like the pump is screaming trying to push fuel to make sufficient pressure to atomizing the fuel.
I play with throtle when inspecting fuel spray at nozzle. I think I Found the problem... Fuel not SPRAY, it is sometimes DRIP, sometimes do not eject fuel and sometimes the spray pattern is different between two nozzle.
I change Holley pump with Bosch pump that can provide continuous 40 psi when needed.
The Bosch pump instalation required bigger Fuel Hose diameter at the inlet and same diameter at ex compared to Holley pump.
After finishing new pump intalation, i rechecked the fuel pressure to make sure it is not overpressure because the nozzle wont open when it overpressure.
Cranks the engine...it idle very smooth...
With Fuel controller knob at default position, the engine pull very strong. All hesitation, stumbling, black smoke, sputtering gone away.
It only need small adjusment at fuel controller to make it run better.
I'm very happy with the final result. I'm not affraid with extreme angle anymore.
Along with KC859 Delta camshaft it makes noticable different.
Probably, Holley pro-jection is the best mod i ever done.
Here's short video my 2F run with Pro-Jection.
VID 00004 20110928 1225 - YouTube
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Cheers
and they don't tolerate even a light spray from a hose. Sooo, I always carry a spare sensor in a water-proof container. They don't cost toooo much though....
I ran the closed loop kit, and I think it probably helped emission wise, but my old 327 runs better with a slightly richer mixture than what the closed loop kit suggests, so I chose to run the system without the closed loop kit. I'm sure it would help as far as emissions and gas milage are concerned. I did consider wiring a variable resistor into the kit's O2 sensor wire to make the closed loop mixture adjustable, but never got around to it. I think that would be nice though, closed loop with an adjustable mixture setting.
