2F Rebuild - First Timer (1 Viewer)

[Arabian Cruiser]

Here's a good article explaining the process. Basically, you are making sure things that spin (crank, rod, piston) all match in weight and the crank is balanced along it's length. If you have already started assembly, it may be too late unless you want to backtrack. It cost me about $200 extra IIRC, at the machine shop, and I think it's the best money I've ever spent on my 40.

http://www.nmradigital.com/2014/02/26/how-to-balance-a-rotating-assembly/

Also, MAKE SURE you have the right freeze plug (i.e. toyota sourced only) in the back of the block behind the cam. One that is too deep won't allow the cam to sit far enough in the block and will kill lifters in a hurry as well as the cam itself.

GL
Ramon

Ok I will find out if it can be done and where. I'll ask my machine shop. He would probably be the best place to start.

I'll delay the assembly one more day to get asking.

So I'll start on Sunday.

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

Great job so far. You can celebrate, but don't let your shisha dry out.

Thanks but I'm more worried about my camels dry lips ; )

 

[Weber Sarge]

There really is no place on an engine to use that Indian Shellac - I hate that stuff since it dries to something about 3 grades harder than concrete , seen guys destroy intake manifolds and such trying to remove it .
Sarge

 

[Pin_Head]

Thanks but I'm more worried about my camels dry lips ; )

I would be more concerned about dry camel toes.

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

I would be more concerned about dry camel toes.

Yes. That is concerning.

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

Still waiting for a few new lifters & push rods from the dealer. It seems they are digging deep to get them.

So got the torque wrenches off the shelf

Also pulled out the 8mm threaded Galley plug that I had previously installed because it was a bit wobbly when I had installed it.

Drilled it out with a 9mm drill bit, tapped it with a 10mm and put in the new threaded plug. Fits like a glove. Much better now.

Will clean it out tomorrow before I lock it in and start the assembly as the parts should arrive.

Till then.

 

[Pin_Head]

That type of hole in cast iron should have a tapered pipe thread because the threads are self sealing and the tapered thread plug won't back out.

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

That type of hole in cast iron should have a tapered pipe thread because the threads are self sealing and the tapered thread plug won't back out.

thanks Pin_Head,

Ill get that fixed.

 

[DougAustinTx]

I didn't have a tapered plug for my heads, so I used teflon paste sealing compound on the first plug, then installed another plug with locktite to lock the first plug into place.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

this is what I did as well...dig the color

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

I didn't have a tapered plug for my heads, so I used teflon paste sealing compound on the first plug, then installed another plug with locktite to lock the first plug into place.

Thanks for coming through when you did. I was out trying to find Pin_Heads recommendation and couldn't find any. Plus after drilling the second time to enlarge it the 10mm hole it's at I don't want to do anymore drilling and crack the head. Will definitely do the tapered thread on my next builds. I have three more 2f s to build.

Will be using the short ones at the front.

So ended up getting two threaded plugs that are half the size and a bunch of epoxies.

Which one do you think would be best to use instead of the Teflon paste sealing compound ?

The Loctite Epoxy
Tensile strength 3400 PSI
Heat up to 302 f 150 C

Bison Epoxy
Tensile strength 180kg
Heat up to 100c

JB Weld
Tensile strength 2424 PSI
Heat up to 230 c

Devcon leak stopper
Heat up to 93 c 200f
Can drill tap and sand and paint

Thanks

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

this is what I did as well...dig the color

Thanks

 

[Pin_Head]

I would use red Locktite 271 or 272 in this application for a permanent repair.

Pipe thread is used all over the world so taps and fittings should not be hard to find. Since the threaded hole is tapered, the size is nominal and is listed according to the inside diameter of the pipe. The thread shape and pitch are important and there are three standards: National pipe thread (NPT, used in the US), British standard pipe thread (BSPT, used in the UK and Japan) and metric pipe thread. As long as the tap thread matches the plug, you will be fine.

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

I would use red Locktite 271 or 272 in this application for a permanent repair.

Ok I have some of that.

In your opinion is it best to use one long threaded plug or two shorter threaded plugs ?

Much appreciated.

 

[Pin_Head]

I would use two shorter plugs so that the second one has something to tighten against.

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

I would use two shorter plugs so that the second one has something to tighten against.

Thanks

 

[Pin_Head]

على الرحب والسعة

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

على الرحب والسعة

Pin_head Hahahaha

Had to through those words through a translator app to get the meaning.

Your Arabic is better than mine.

عفوا

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

I would use red Locktite 271 or 272 in this application for a permanent repair.

Pipe thread is used all over the world so taps and fittings should not be hard to find. Since the threaded hole is tapered, the size is nominal and is listed according to the inside diameter of the pipe. The thread shape and pitch are important and there are three standards: National pipe thread (NPT, used in the US), British standard pipe thread (BSPT, used in the UK and Japan) and metric pipe thread. As long as the tap thread matches the plug, you will be fine.

Pin_Head اهلًا

Do these look like the three standards ?

The one on the left looks tapered to me. Am I getting warmer ?

Thanks

 

[Arabian Cruiser]

Need to get that Loctite. The stuff I have has expired and a different number.