2F into a 72 FJ40 need transmission advice (2 Viewers)

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That was my fault. I wanted to put my old f air cleaner on the new 2f since I was reusing my manifold and carb. I torqued it back to spec in 2 increments. It’s been so long since I put a head on I forgot about the torque sequence. Sooooooo, maybe I need a new head gasket and retorque everything correctly? Not the end of the world but I’d rather not right now. I’ve heard of hotrodders pulling 1 leaking head bolt at a time, putting sealant on it and retorquing 1 at a time.
 
I thought maybe it wasn’t that big a deal since I read so many threads where folks pulled the 1 head bolt to drill and tap that pesky oil galley leak back by the #5 plug
 
thanks for the suggestion to try a test drive with the drive flanges removed - definitely helped on noise and power. I was able to briefly maintain 65 mph up a slight hill on the interstate then jumped off. I'm accepting the fact that I'm playing a game of inches here - every improvement yields a small gain. I'm next focused on the manifold gasket - going to give the remflex a shot. I'm sure I still have some noise coming from that area. thanks again for the help - and still hunting for the mystery coolant leak. if anyone has any ideas. its on the driver side, has a small puddle on top of the head and the fan blows it back on the firewall and steering column - just a little - you can't really see it but it you wipe it with a towel you'll pick it up.
 
Anyone have some real world numbers on the milling of the head a bit to raise compression? Figured I should consider it since I'm already going to take my manifolds off to install a Remflex gasket. How much of an increase in power can I expect - can I actually feel it?

also the head gasket debate - Toyota can still get one but its $180. Compared to $21 for a FelPro that seems high. Spectre lists one they call OEM, but its only $30 - what gives?
 
Mud vendors usually carry what you need at a lot better pricing than SOR.

 
can I actually feel it?
From just a head shave, likely not.
Remember, it's essentially a tractor motor.

The motor in @wngrog 's Warthog thread is what you seem to be chasing.
 
Looks like he can afford a lot more parts than I can! That was a good read. I am really interested in the Holley sniper system...

Thanks for pointing out the city racer site, I did not realize they were a mud vendor
 
Looks like he can afford a lot more parts than I can! That was a good read. I am really interested in the Holley sniper system...

Thanks for pointing out the city racer site, I did not realize they were a mud vendor

City Racer
Cruiser Outfitters
Cruiser Corps
Land Cruiser Parts and Consulting
Marks Offroad
Valley Hybrids/Cruiser Brothers


Sorry if I missed anyone but these are the ones that I have used a lot during my build.

Check in the classifies in the small business section there are a ton of great products being offered within the community.
 
While I'm waiting for some insight from the forum I'll share my list of other items to consider when doing the 3 spd transfer case to 4 speed transmission swap - with a little 1F to 2F guidance thrown in for good measure

  1. Obviously everyone knows you need the conversion input gear and rear bearing for the transfer case
  2. You also need the transfer case mounting bolts from a 4 speed transfer case - they are longer. The threads on the 4 speed transmission start deeper inside the case and your 3 speed bolts will not even catch the first thread. these bolts are not available from Toyota or McMaster Carr in the length you need.
  3. You also need internal spacers to replace the existing PTO gear in your transfer case because the PTO gear is the old 10 spline. I bought mine from Advance Adapters.
  4. There is also a spacer required outside the transfer case because you will still have an inch plus of splines before you get to the threads. Advance Adapters told me to just cut a piece of pipe to length. Picture below of this before I put the nose cone on.
  5. Linkage! Also see my picture of the interior with the transmission in place. I don't see any way the stock linage would work with my seat configuration. See the floor has a raised hump to facilitate the high low selector linkage - the 4spd moves this back a few inches, and does not fit under the hump. I've seen threads that said to clearance it by hitting the floor in, but I think that would mess up my gas tank orientation and seat mounts - they are all right in that same area. I ordered a twin stick kit from AA to hopefully remedy this - but it hasn't shipped in yet.
  6. Driveshafts - this is documented on Mud. I pulled the slip yoke out and used my 3 spd upper portion to attach to the e-brake drum and the 4 spd driveshaft to attach to the rear axle pinion. I have done a 3:73 gear swap in the rear so i already had a correctly splined pinion yoke.
  7. Clutch slave cylinder - I ordered a new slave cylinder and a longer hydraulic line b/c now its mounted on the passenger side. The rear motor mount accepted the slave.

2f swap issues

The motor mounts look the same between the 1F and 2F, but the bolt holes and bolts are bigger in the 2F block. My 2F did not come with all the mounts so I had to reuse my old ones. I had to drill them out and go source new larger bolts to fit the existing tapped holes in the block and bellhousing - so check your bolts before you get started.

I reused my 1F intake and exhaust manifolds on the 2F motor - no issues except I had to ream the mount holes out slightly b/c the studs are different between the 2 engines. This is documented on MUD

I reused my 1F fan and water pump pulley - but the alternator bracket did not line up. i had to use the 2F alternator bracket and go source a 48" belt from NAPA.


Again - I really need help on this transmission issue described a couple posts above - any help would be greatly appreciated

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Where did you get your input shaft bearing for the 3 speed case?
 

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