Vae Victus
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- #121
Yes - love his table, his shop, etc. great resource. Hope to get better at welding.
2F Engine Rebuild - the Vae Victus way (1 Viewer)
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Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
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- #122
Continuing engine teardown today.
Started with the front end timing plate. Used the Vessel rotating screw driver that I bought 9 months ago. It's been sitting it the box, waiting for this day so I could pull those darn flat countersunk screws in the timing plate. Worked like a charm. Couple of solid taps and the screws loosened right up.
Gasket sealant anyone?
Started with the front end timing plate. Used the Vessel rotating screw driver that I bought 9 months ago. It's been sitting it the box, waiting for this day so I could pull those darn flat countersunk screws in the timing plate. Worked like a charm. Couple of solid taps and the screws loosened right up.
Gasket sealant anyone?
Vae Victus
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Next it was time for the oil pan. I've not been looking forward to this though I know it's not going to be hard. Didn't want to deal with the extra oil in the bottom (wasn't bad).
Zipped all of the dozen or so bolts off the pan with the hammer drill (the electric version of the air tool). Then had to loosen the gasket all the way Round with the putty knife and a hammer.
Finally popped it off. Easy. A little oil in the bottom, 2-3 oz maybe, and some sludge. Much more gray in color in the photos than in person.
Dealt with the oil, wiped out the pan and set it aside.
Zipped all of the dozen or so bolts off the pan with the hammer drill (the electric version of the air tool). Then had to loosen the gasket all the way Round with the putty knife and a hammer.
Finally popped it off. Easy. A little oil in the bottom, 2-3 oz maybe, and some sludge. Much more gray in color in the photos than in person.
Dealt with the oil, wiped out the pan and set it aside.
Vae Victus
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Began to roll the engine over to gain access to the crankshaft. But, oops, forgot about the last of the water jacket. Splash! No photos but about 8oz of sticky antifreeze that looked like the muddy Mississippi poured out on my floor.
Cleaned that up and rolled the motor outside, put a bucket under it and caught, literally, the last 1/2 oz of liquid.
Rotated it upside down. Took some photos of the bottom at different angles for ref. Been rebuilt before - lots of mating marks on the rod caps.
Oil pickup and pump had some of the red gasket sealant stuck in it. Wonder why?
Rolled it back in. Measured the connecting rod thrust clearances between each rod face. All were fine.
Measured the crankshaft thrust tolerances. One between 4 & 5 was out of spec (> 0.30 mm) so all bearings need to be replaced.
Cleaned that up and rolled the motor outside, put a bucket under it and caught, literally, the last 1/2 oz of liquid.
Rotated it upside down. Took some photos of the bottom at different angles for ref. Been rebuilt before - lots of mating marks on the rod caps.
Oil pickup and pump had some of the red gasket sealant stuck in it. Wonder why?
Rolled it back in. Measured the connecting rod thrust clearances between each rod face. All were fine.
Measured the crankshaft thrust tolerances. One between 4 & 5 was out of spec (> 0.30 mm) so all bearings need to be replaced.
Vae Victus
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So, is it going to hurt the piston if I pull it out of the top of the block (it is sticking a little on the top of the cylinder - #1 piston is out about 1/2" and stuck on the 2nd ring it looks like). Or, should I wait until I pull the crankshaft and pull them out the bottom?
EDIT: Solved. See below.
EDIT: Solved. See below.
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Vae Victus
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Ok nvm. I figured that one out. Just kept wiggling till it came out.
Noticed one of the cam shaft bearings is not lined up with the oil passage. Others are. I take it that's not really good for long term wear.
No oil passage beneath. This is btw 2&3.
This one does have oil passage below it (btw 4&5):
Noticed one of the cam shaft bearings is not lined up with the oil passage. Others are. I take it that's not really good for long term wear.
No oil passage beneath. This is btw 2&3.
This one does have oil passage below it (btw 4&5):
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Vae Victus
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Huge milestone on Monday - dropped the engine at the engine place! Woo hoo! Fought one crankshaft bolt for 3-4 hours, and finally just levered it off, hoping it wouldn't break. Thankfully it did not. Wore out my 19mm deep air socket - thing was almost smoking hot after a 5 minute session on that nut.
The engine guy is the son of my corporate office manager (who has worked for me for 10 years). I've watched him go from engine rookie, to working for multiple Truck series race teams, and building custom engines for corvette enthusiasts. His shop, way out in the country, was brand new, and was very impressive. Several clean rooms to do finally assy, 20-30 race engines in various states of repair.
The most impressive thing was his $185,000 valve seat CNC machine. He said there were less than 10 of these in the country, and could cut a valve seat angle past vertical up to 140* (other CNCs limited to about 90 vertical). He claims that "all the new discovery in horsepower is in valve seating. Bore and stroke are of course the basic elements, but the seat angles can vastly increase horsepower.
I don't know anything about that, but trust that this young man has $200,000 worth of CNCs in his little country shop, and several dozen race engines. I'm tending to trust him and believe the engine will get very good treatment.
Here's the CNC
The engine guy is the son of my corporate office manager (who has worked for me for 10 years). I've watched him go from engine rookie, to working for multiple Truck series race teams, and building custom engines for corvette enthusiasts. His shop, way out in the country, was brand new, and was very impressive. Several clean rooms to do finally assy, 20-30 race engines in various states of repair.
The most impressive thing was his $185,000 valve seat CNC machine. He said there were less than 10 of these in the country, and could cut a valve seat angle past vertical up to 140* (other CNCs limited to about 90 vertical). He claims that "all the new discovery in horsepower is in valve seating. Bore and stroke are of course the basic elements, but the seat angles can vastly increase horsepower.
I don't know anything about that, but trust that this young man has $200,000 worth of CNCs in his little country shop, and several dozen race engines. I'm tending to trust him and believe the engine will get very good treatment.
Here's the CNC
The old 2F will be a huge step backwards for this shop , lol . Just remind him it's a tractor engine and balancing is key to it's lifespan , which is a week shy of forever ....
Did you get any goodie in the mail yet ??
Sarge
Did you get any goodie in the mail yet ??
Sarge
Vae Victus
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- #129
Hmmm. Not yet. Wife grabbed it. May not have looked thru it. Home late after son's lacrosse game.
5x7 padded postal envelope , hope that didn't get lost ....
Sarge
Sarge
Vae Victus
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- #131
Got it - thanks for making a long adapter for the dial caliper! Nice workmanship. Very generous of you, this will come in handy and actually make this tool kinda useful.
I'm rebuilding a 76' 2f now, domed pistons, mine has already been stripped, dipped and cleaned at the CARQUEST Machine shop near my home in Asheville. The crank has been turned as well. Here's the deal, my machine shop and my friend/professional mechanic says 99% of the time you can re-use your stock pistons and just hone the cylinders on these engines unless they have really been abused. The main reason for my teardown was the harmonic balancer was not tightened properly back in the 90's and it tore up the key way beyond repair. So the engine was just parked because the previous owner thought the knocking noise was a thrown bearing or rod. Ultimately after measurement the shop just recommended honing mine and re-using the original Toyota pistons.
I got a stock gasket kit from toyotaoverstock.com for $240 shipped that included every single gasket I needed.
My total cost to have every single metal part cleaned and blasted, cylinders honed, crank turned, heads rebuilt and bearings installed was $550.
Meanwhile, I need standard cam bearings, piston rings and .10 under rod and main bearings. Where did or might you decide to order this stuff from?
BTW I'd highly recommend sending your stock Aisan Carburetor to Jim C. for rebuild (FJ40jim on mud) I did and when I re-installed it on my daily driver 77 the acceleration was so smooth it felt like fuel injection and my mileage jumped from 14.5 to 16.5 highway driving.
I got a stock gasket kit from toyotaoverstock.com for $240 shipped that included every single gasket I needed.
My total cost to have every single metal part cleaned and blasted, cylinders honed, crank turned, heads rebuilt and bearings installed was $550.
Meanwhile, I need standard cam bearings, piston rings and .10 under rod and main bearings. Where did or might you decide to order this stuff from?
BTW I'd highly recommend sending your stock Aisan Carburetor to Jim C. for rebuild (FJ40jim on mud) I did and when I re-installed it on my daily driver 77 the acceleration was so smooth it felt like fuel injection and my mileage jumped from 14.5 to 16.5 highway driving.
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kiwidog
Kiwidog
Hi Vae,
Yes i think you will find Sarge's DTI extension very useful.
I went to a friend of mines 65th birthday last week and he gave me some bits and pieces for a machinist's toolbox. The calendar on the Starrett tables was from 1964 so that have been around for a while.
Have been following your tear down and now build with interest. I see that the previous builder had used excessive quantities of RTV to hold that 2F oil tight. It really isn't necessary in my opinion, other than a few select places. Sure makes for a neater looking engine if you paint the parts first and have the gaskets show a the joining surfaces in their original colour.
I am in the process of freshening up the 2F for our 1980 FJ. It has had slight oil leak at the rear for ever. I pulled the pan and you could see the pan wasn't touching the gasket at the rear seal area very well. Some one had tried to beat the pan a little to get more crush on the gasket, it didn't work. What was needed was rear pan rail needed to be reshaped a little at the rear seal area. i would recommend you check yours to see that the the rib on the front and rear of the pan fits the groove in the bearing caps real well before you install the pan gasket.
Keep up the good work on the 40. How are the plans for the shop coming?
Thanks jb
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Hope it works out for you . Those pan rail areas are a typical problem on that design , in the past I've rolled the pan lip a bit further with a ball peen hammer and then roll the sealing edge down tighter to fit the bearing cap . Works most of the time , but still a very small bead of The Right Stuff for insurance .
Sarge
Sarge
Vae Victus
Posting more than I know
- Thread starter
- #135
Rumor has it he is starting on my engine "in a week."
Good luck dude! Sounds like it's going to put that rebuilt transmission to good use.
Rainman
Wondering what my next vehicle will be...
Let me know when it's time to put the drive train in...
Or will it have to wait on the chassis?
And the axles?
And the suspension?
And the tires?
And the wheels?
And the...
Or will it have to wait on the chassis?
And the axles?
And the suspension?
And the tires?
And the wheels?
And the...
Vae Victus
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- #138
sheepdawg
Champagne appetite. Beer income.
Great thread. I've read it three times now. I am just a few steps behind you on my 84 2f rebuild. Also my 1st rebuild.
Vae Victus
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- #140
Thanks man, just waiting patiently for my engine... Among other tasks I keep putting off.
I'll have to re read the thread myself it's been so long.
...via IH8MUD app
