2F connecting rod caps

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Jun 22, 2009
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Location
High Point, NC
The nuts for the connecting rod end caps came off with little problem, but separating the caps from the rods is another story. I've tried hitting them with a dead blow hammer, but they refuse to move. The block is still in the frame, so there's not a whole lot of room for using a hammer. Tips or tricks for breaking them loose?
 
Rotate the crankshaft.
 
After marking the cap and rod to make sure they stay together and properly configured, put the connecting rod nuts on flush to the bottom of the stud and tap up on the stud and nut assembly with a soft face hammer.

After the cap separates, remove the bearing shells and use the handle of the hammer and push the piston and rod assembly out of the bore.

Works best if the carbon is removed from the top lip of the cylinder.

:meh:
 
After marking the cap and rod to make sure they stay together and properly configured, put the connecting rod nuts on flush to the bottom of the stud and tap up on the stud and nut assembly with a soft face hammer.

After the cap separates, remove the bearing shells and use the handle of the hammer and push the piston and rod assembly out of the bore.

Works best if the carbon is removed from the top lip of the cylinder.

:meh:

I was able to get the #6 end cap off with some light taps from a ball peen hammer. I'll try your method next time I'm in the shop... hopefully it will have quicker results than mine.

I don't think I'm following you completely on removing the piston. Do you rotate the crankshaft out of the way, and put the handle against the inner radius of the connecting rod and push upwards? There's no carbon at the top of the bore, only on the crown of the pistons.

I tried to push the #6 piston out earlier, but the paper thin ridge at the top of the bore is enough to catch on the rings.

Thanks
 
I'm going to check the ridge with some emery cloth to see if it will clean up.
 
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