2F Compatible Parts?

[FloridaLife]

Before I haul the drivetrain components off to scrap next week, can anyone tell me what, if any, parts would be compatible to the 1978 2F drivetrain I'm going to be using? For example, if they use the same starter, water pump, fuel pump or anything else that I have, then I could see keeping those as spares. It has been suggested by a couple of you in a previous thread that what I thought was a 1971 F drivetrain may actually be a 1972 or 1973. Please see pics and advise:

 

[pb4ugo]

So you're gonna pitch all that Land Cruiser gold? A few things maybe obviously junk, but I wouldn't pitch a lot of it until the project is done, then see if there's a market for what's left.

 

[FloridaLife]

So you're gonna pitch all that Land Cruiser gold? A few things maybe obviously junk, but I wouldn't pitch a lot of it until the project is done, then see if there's a market for what's left.

I hate to do it, especially being an old hot rodder that was always searching for those parts, but I've had it all listed on here for a while and nobody seems interested, except for the transmission which is sold. I need the space to park the FJ40 when it gets home from being worked on, and the parts are stinking up the garage (gear oil STINKS) so anything left next week is going to go away. Plus, I have another complete 2F engine + 4 speed transmission + transfer case + overdrive unit all shrink-wrapped on a pallet at the mechanic's shop to be installed after the paint is done (easier to paint the engine bay without anything in there).

 

[Green Bean]

It sure would be a shame to see some of that go to scrap. I would think that the head and rocker assembly would be attractive.

 

[igotta40]

I was about to gas up the Crosstrek and head to Florida for that manifold set until I saw the other piece. Damn.

I swapped a 1974 1.5F for a 1975 2F and some ancillary parts were compatible, like the intake manifold, alternator, flywheel & clutch, air cleaner and more.

 

[JackA]

The majority of external items are interchangeable between the F and 2F. Why not list stuff for free if you are just gonna scrap it?

 

[mrboatman]

I’m surprised the air cleaner is still there. That usually goes to a good home.

 

[FloridaLife]

It sure would be a shame to see some of that go to scrap. I would think that the head and rocker assembly would be attractive.

I would have thought so too, but nobody has expressed any interest in them.

 

[Mark W]

Your head has open combustion chambers. I *think* that I see the boss for the cast in oiling passage to the rocker arm pedestal. This makes is at least a late '72 head (if the boss is not drilled) or more likely a '73 or '74 head (if the passage is drilled). This is a prized find. Drop it on an open chamber 2F for 9.3:1 or so compression with no other mods.

The starter is interchangeable to your new 2F.

Never scrap an Asain carb these days.

Never scrap a good (or easily repairable) OEM radiator these days.

That flywheel and pressure plate (along with the short clutch fork pivot point from the bellhousing) will work on your 2F. It is heavier than the 2F assembly which is a big plus for low speed crawling.

The thermostat housing is the same as the earlier 2Fs. they break. Keep it.

Mark...

 

[cruiserkev]

Offer this stuff up on the classifieds. Free works great, only fools throw away cruiser parts. I have regretted tossing out a few things so don't be like me. Less guilt in just hoarding the parts for life!

 

[FloridaLife]

Your head has open combustion chambers. I *think* that I see the boss for the cast in oiling passage to the rocker arm pedestal. This makes is at least a late '72 head (if the boss is not drilled) or more likely a '73 or '74 head (if the passage is drilled). This is a prized find. Drop it on an open chamber 2F for 9.3:1 or so compression with no other mods.

The starter is interchangeable to your new 2F.

Never scrap an Asain carb these days.

Never scrap a good (or easily repairable) OEM radiator these days.

That flywheel and pressure plate (along with the short clutch fork pivot point from the bellhousing) will work on your 2F. It is heavier than the 2F assembly which is a big plus for low speed crawling.

The thermostat housing is the same as the earlier 2Fs. they break. Keep it.

Mark...

You are a life saver! That's the kind of info I needed to know. I told my wife if I could find out anything that would be a good spare to keep for the future, then I could keep those things and say goodbye to the rest. I don't know if you have seen them yet, but I just posted some more pics of things where I tried wiping off the labels or numbers on things (several on the carb including a little plate under a Phillips screw) to give a better idea. If the parts you mentioned above will work on my 2F, it seems logical the alternator might too?

And it seems like I remember someone telling me when I first got on here and said I was looking for a drivetrain that a 2F with the 4 speed but connected to the 3 speed transfer case was better & stronger than the 4 speed transfer case. Do you know anything about that?

 

[cruisermatt]

Your head has open combustion chambers. I *think* that I see the boss for the cast in oiling passage to the rocker arm pedestal. This makes is at least a late '72 head (if the boss is not drilled) or more likely a '73 or '74 head (if the passage is drilled). This is a prized find. Drop it on an open chamber 2F for 9.3:1 or so compression with no other mods.

The starter is interchangeable to your new 2F.

Never scrap an Asain carb these days.

Never scrap a good (or easily repairable) OEM radiator these days.

That flywheel and pressure plate (along with the short clutch fork pivot point from the bellhousing) will work on your 2F. It is heavier than the 2F assembly which is a big plus for low speed crawling.

The thermostat housing is the same as the earlier 2Fs. they break. Keep it.

Mark...

The radiator and thermostat housings are available new OEM very inexpensively.

 

[Mark W]

You are a life saver! That's the kind of info I needed to know. I told my wife if I could find out anything that would be a good spare to keep for the future, then I could keep those things and say goodbye to the rest. I don't know if you have seen them yet, but I just posted some more pics of things where I tried wiping off the labels or numbers on things (several on the carb including a little plate under a Phillips screw) to give a better idea. If the parts you mentioned above will work on my 2F, it seems logical the alternator might too?

And it seems like I remember someone telling me when I first got on here and said I was looking for a drivetrain that a 2F with the 4 speed but connected to the 3 speed transfer case was better & stronger than the 4 speed transfer case. Do you know anything about that?

The alternator should interchange. They are cheap and easily found, but if you already have that one...


The transfercase behind the three speed tranny has a 2.313:1 low range. The one behind the 4 speed has a 1.96:1 low range. Back in the day a popular swap was to put the "three speed" TC behind the 4 speed. The gearing difference in low range is the same as if you put 4.88s in the axles. There are a couple of aftermarket parts you need to buy. The older T/C is argueble a little weaker (more bittle cse *supposedly) and narrower gears. Few will ever see any problem from this is you are not beating the rig hard and using it at the 9/10s level.

Mark...

 

[Mark W]

The radiator and thermostat housings are available new OEM very inexpensively.

Yep. But the one he has is even cheaper. And no shipping.


Mark...

 

[FloridaLife]

Your head has open combustion chambers. I *think* that I see the boss for the cast in oiling passage to the rocker arm pedestal. This makes is at least a late '72 head (if the boss is not drilled) or more likely a '73 or '74 head (if the passage is drilled). This is a prized find. Drop it on an open chamber 2F for 9.3:1 or so compression with no other mods.

The starter is interchangeable to your new 2F.

Never scrap an Asain carb these days.

Never scrap a good (or easily repairable) OEM radiator these days.

That flywheel and pressure plate (along with the short clutch fork pivot point from the bellhousing) will work on your 2F. It is heavier than the 2F assembly which is a big plus for low speed crawling.

The thermostat housing is the same as the earlier 2Fs. they break. Keep it.

Mark...

 

[FloridaLife]

Here are some more shots of the head and valve cover. Do these shots of the top of the head tell you what you were wondering, or do I need to turn it over and get more shots of the bottom of the head?

 

[Mark W]

Here are some more shots of the head and valve cover. Do these shots of the top of the head tell you what you were wondering, or do I need to turn it over and get more shots of the bottom of the head?

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The boss for the oil passage is there. However, it has not been drilled. That is '72 head. They introduced the casting into the production line before the modification was made to the oiling system in the very late Fs and in the 2 Fs.

That head is still a bit of a find, but the bore for the oil passage will need to be drilled for it to be installed on a 2F. Alternatively, you can retain the rocker arm assembly that was originally on there and oil the rock arms with a new oil line. The simplest way to supply oil to that line is to tap in to the oil filter amount or use a T on the oil pressure sending unit.

Mark...

 

[77mustard40]

Don't let that valved heater T on the head go if its working, I have one on my '77 and love shutting off the coolant to the heater in the summer since the heater valve on the firewall never fully seals in the off position. In my dual climate control 40 (my window and your window) I'll take all the help I can get in a Texas summer.

 

[FloridaLife]

Don't let that valved heater T on the head go if its working, I have one on my '77 and love shutting off the coolant to the heater in the summer since the heater valve on the firewall never fully seals in the off position. In my dual climate control 40 (my window and your window) I'll take all the help I can get in a Texas summer.

OH, is that what the brass looking thing is with the almost wing nut looking thing sticking up off of it is!? I was wondering. And being born and raised in Texas, I know all too well you are correct! You need all the help you can get in the summer? Where do you live? You might need to save up your pocket change and drive over to San Antonio to Vintage Air and get some help.

 

[FloridaLife]

The boss for the oil passage is there. However, it has not been drilled. That is '72 head. They introduced the casting into the production line before the modification was made to the oiling system in the very late Fs and in the 2 Fs.

That head is still a bit of a find, but the bore for the oil passage will need to be drilled for it to be installed on a 2F. Alternatively, you can retain the rocker arm assembly that was originally on there and oil the rock arms with a new oil line. The simplest way to supply oil to that line is to tap in to the oil filter amount or use a T on the oil pressure sending unit.

Mark...

If I keep it like you suggest, then before putting it on I would probably take it to a local machine shop and have them service the head first. If I do that, then I could probably have them drill that piece for me too. Exactly where is it? What am I looking for? If you could tell me exactly where to look on one of those pics that might help.

Also, should I have them shave / deck the block a little, or no?

Thanks