2F Broken Crankshaft!! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 7, 2013
Threads
40
Messages
134
Location
Graham, TX
Hello all,

Just discovered the crankshaft in my 1970 FJ40 is broken. Heres the background:

1975 2F swapped in before I bought the truck five years ago. Previous owner said engine had been rebuilt recently. I had no reason to doubt him. Engine was very clean, ran great, and didn't leak or burn oil. Then I put in an SM465 and new clutch about two years ago. Probably put 20k miles on it in total, with 7-8k of that with the SM465. No problems...until a few weeks ago. Had started to notice a very faint ticking/tapping that was rpm dependant. Noise was coming from transmission tunnel area. Was so faint I couldn't tell if it was actually a noise or just my imagination. Got ever so slightly louder, but still not loud enough for my car-ignorant wife to notice. At first I thought throw out bearing was riding on clutch fingers all the time and making noise. That wasn't the prob. Stayed same volume for a week or so, then got louder, and definitely noticeable one day on way home from work. At that point I knew something was wrong, not just a throw out bearing or something similar. Close to home, pulling away from a stop light, I hear/feel a terrible sound like Godzilla gargling metal bowling balls. I shut motor off immediately and coast into parking lot. Call wife and have her tow me home with our FJ62.

Once home, I pull clutch cover and look/feel around. All clutch stuff looks fine. Then I grab the flywheel. I can rotate it back and forth a degree or so. At this point I'm thinking loose flywheel bolts. Remove trans/tcase and clutch expecting to find partially-backed out flywheel bolts. Nope, solid as the day I torqued them when I installed the new clutch. I all but know the real problem now. Drop oil pan, rear main cap, and rod #6 cap. There it is, big, nasty break, right through rod #6 journal. #6 rod bearing is all chewed up. I cut the oil filter open and the upstream side is dusted with non-magnetic bearing debris, as is the bottom of the oil pan.

Now I have a few questions. First and most obvious, what caused the break? I drove it gently and kept clean oil in it. One might expect this from a race engine, but not a gently driven 2F. I'd hate to replace crank then it break in another three years. However, I know there are a ton of 2Fs around with a ton of miles on them so this must be pretty uncommon.

Does SM465 have something to do with it? Wouldn't think so.

Now shopping for 2F crankshafts. What year range of cranks fit? Are any 2F crankshafts different than any other years?

Guess I know my project for the next few weeks/months.

Stephan
 
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Yes, it moves freely. The crank, albeit broken into two pieces, and all the rods, pistons, and cam all rotate and turn freely.
 
#6 rod bearing is chewed up, but not all the way through. The #6 crank journal surface looks clean and smooth, other than the break. No circumferential scoring.
 
Will post pics of the #6 rod bearing halves this afternoon after work.
 
Sorry man... That sucks!!

Have you checked the cylinders to see if some metal might have jammed a piston, causing the crank to torque and snap?

The jammer (metal) could have come loose after the crank snapped.

I would have expected a rod to snap first... Unless the crank was already flawed/damaged and wasn't properly inspected when the engine was rebuilt...

I don't know SM465s.... But I think I've seen many people saying they are running them.
 
I had a crank break on my 73' triumph spitfire ... the crank was cut when we did the motor on it... the shop that cut the crank went 'two sizes up' when it was cut... it had already been cut before I got it it seemed

Maybe yours was cut a number of times and weakened it ... like mine

Try to find a crank that had not been cut previously
 
Haven't looked at cylinders/pistons yet from the top side. They look clean from the bottom side. Everything spins freely right now.

Will check harmonic balancer tonight. Good suggestion.

Good thoughts on crank being ground multiple times. I'll mic the journal diameters when I get the crank out to determine how many times it has been ground.
 

Thanks for the thought Danny. Cranks are heavy...and plentiful. He's got Jason at the Cruiser yard right there in TX that can probably fix him up just as good without the ripoff the shipping companies wedge into the deal. Ironic, because Jason has complained in the past about shipping charges, but here it tips the scale in his favor.

On the tech side, I have heard of two other cranks failing on the rear like that.
 
I think I'd balance the flywheel before putting it back together, just to be on the safe side. And the harmonic balancer if it looked bad. Was it vibrating at all before it started making noise?
 
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I think I'd balance the flywheel before putting it back together, just to be on the safe side. And the harmonic balancer if it looked bad. Was it vibrating at all before it started making noise?

I doubt a harmonic balancer on the front would cause crankshaft to snap at number six rod. Out of balance flywheel should have caused wear at the rear main. Because crankshaft has the most torque at number six rod of all the rods it would be the most likely to break. The 2F was thirty-five years old when installed into your cruiser. Guessing unknown history. Also adding a lower geared transmission then Toyota ever used. With the right tires on the right surface with good traction you can put a lot of stress on the drivetrain without realizing it.
 
How heavy a pressure plate did you new tranny setup require. My guess is the pressure plate spring load flexed the crank at the bearing journal over and over.

That 2500 pound clutch clamping force all goes forward for the thrust bearing to handle when pushing in clutch pedal. Everything behind thrust bearing has to take it.
 

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