2977cc B and 3431cc 3B parts interchangeability (1 Viewer)

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WOW so nice!

Darn! Why didn't I think of that? :eek:



Thanks. (Finding out all that would have taken you quite a bit of time too. :clap:)



I imported it from Oz so it is an import which was "assembled in Japan for the Australian market". (I understand Toyota Australia imported theirs fully-assembled while Toyota NZ imported theirs as CKD.)



I don't think mine looks quite like that. This is the engine bay:

View attachment 226367

I'm working on the body/chassis etc now.

:cheers:
View attachment 226367
 
Just been having some private discussions about oil coolers so I thought I'd add what we've found to this thread.

The B engine in my 1979 BJ40RV-KCQ has a sealed-unit oil cooler (not designed to be opened-up) that is secured to the block with just two bolts. (And these bolts are hollow to carry the oil flow.)

Whereas the oil cooler in a 3B in a 1981 BJ42RV-KC has a big removeable cast-alloy cover secured to the block with many bolts (and sandwiching a gasket inbetween). Inside this oil-filled housing is a separate (removeable) plate-type heat exchanger through which the coolant passes.

---- So the 3B employs a much more sophisticated unit that is more serviceable.


Edit 23 Dec 008 : This thread here shows a 1983 European BJ40 where the 2977cc B diesel is actually fitted with the 3B-type alloy oil cooler:
1983 bj40 in uk
So it looks like BJ40 production continued on past 1980 for certain markets (but not for the Australian/NZ market where I am) and those B-engines got some of the 3B features (like an alloy oil cooler and 3-bolt exhaust-pipe flange).

I suspect the reason for the continued production of the B-engined BJ40 past 1980 would have been connected with "marketing" and "Government Regulations". What I'm thinking is ........ Perhaps in certain countries a vehicle with an engine capacity over 3 litre may have incurred an increased tax/duty penalty. In such a case, Toyota may have stuck with the lower engine capacity in that market to make its vehicles more affordable.

:cheers:

You may have already figured this out by now since this thread is quite old, but my 2B has the 3B-type alloy oil cooler. It is an early build 2B, which shares a number of parts with your B. Mine also has the 3 bolt exhaust flange pipe.

IMG_3838 [1467405].JPG
 
You may have already figured this out by now since this thread is quite old, but my 2B has the 3B-type alloy oil cooler. It is an early build 2B, which shares a number of parts with your B. Mine also has the 3 bolt exhaust flange pipe....

Thanks Wes.

Yes. I think I've learnt a lot since 2008.

In fact it can be embarrassing re-reading old threads such as this one.

Throughout this thread I was comparing engines without specifying their build dates and of course it is the engine with the most recent build-date (regardless of whether it is a B, 2B or 3B) that will feature the more modern (and usually but-not-always "the most upgraded") features.

:beer:
 
Thanks for this info. I'm in the process of freshening up a 2b right now. Do you have a source for the valve stem seals?
 
Thanks for this info. I'm in the process of freshening up a 2b right now. Do you have a source for the valve stem seals?

I'd try Engine Australia.

When searching just now, I did see other sources but I'm not sure I trust them to be selling the correct seals.

:beer:
 
Seems like a pretty straight forward job to perform without removing the head. Anything difficult I should watch out for?
 
Seems like a pretty straight forward job to perform without removing the head. Anything difficult I should watch out for?

I've never replaced any so I don't have personal experience.

I imagine you won't want to drop a valve so I guess each piston should be at TDC when you tackle each cylinder.

I think I recall threads where people have used techniques (such as introduced air pressure) to keep their valves seated (once the collets/springs are removed).. But I'm not certain this is necessary.

Hopefully someone more experienced will reply..

:)
 
Hey everyone. Awesome thread! I know I'm late but thought it was worth a shot!

I had a precup blow out on my 77 b series and do some damage to the head cylinder. Attached is a photo of the aftermath . Is this a head cylinder replacement or can I get lucky and replace the precup and damaged piston? The missing precup has a chip around the rim. I'm affraid machining it would make the hole too big. Id like to save the money and just replace the precup but worry that chip with cause pressure issues....

Any help is hugely appreciated!

IMG_20160526_093248.jpg
 
Hey everyone. Awesome thread! I know I'm late but thought it was worth a shot!

I had a precup blow out on my 77 b series and do some damage to the head cylinder. Attached is a photo of the aftermath . Is this a head cylinder replacement or can I get lucky and replace the precup and damaged piston? The missing precup has a chip around the rim. I'm affraid machining it would make the hole too big. Id like to save the money and just replace the precup but worry that chip with cause pressure issues....

Any help is hugely appreciated!

View attachment 1277846
Replace all the precups, as they all look cracked. I would be concerned about the valve seat as well, but should be replaceable.

If it were me I would bring to a reputable rebuilder and have crack tested as has seen some impact and if let them fix if feasible. Valve seat will need a replacement or reaming? and face will need a kiss from a grinder anyways. Hard to tell from pics but is the bore round? Damage to the bore where the precup sits?
 
.....
I had a precup blow out on my 77 b series and do some damage to the head cylinder. Attached is a photo of the aftermath . Is this a head cylinder replacement or can I get lucky and replace the precup and damaged piston? The missing precup has a chip around the rim. I'm affraid machining it would make the hole too big. Id like to save the money and just replace the precup but worry that chip with cause pressure issues....
Any help is hugely appreciated!

It looks to me like the missing precup has belted out the side of the recess that it was seated in.

The "head gasket sealing ring for that particular cylinder" needs to seal right across the new precup when it is fitted. So if I'm correct, unfortunately the hot gases will now have an easy bypass path past this "ring".

So I think the head is now "junk".

Sorry to say..
 
Reviving an old thread here as i have just cracked the head on my b engine and it appears that B heads are unicorns but 3B heads are available. After reading through this thread i am under the opinion that a 3B head will do the trick.
Would i be correct in assuming this?
 
@Marn0 I haven't read this thread in a long time, but from my understanding the heads are not interchangeable between generations... Meaning you cannot swap heads from a B, 2B, or 3B. IIRC, you cannot even swap the 3B and 3BII heads...

But, so I'm not all doom and gloom, I will say that you will probably save a lot of time and money by looking for a good 3B or even 13BT to swap in... Both would be much more drivable and will provide some more part security than the B. The only reason to keep the B is if you are trying to keep the rig original.

Heck, I have seen some 14B and 15B variants show up for remarkably fair prices recently... If I still had a B series engine, if definitely look at one of those too update to.
 
@Marn0 I haven't read this thread in a long time, but from my understanding the heads are not interchangeable between generations... Meaning you cannot swap heads from a B, 2B, or 3B. IIRC, you cannot even swap the 3B and 3BII heads...

But, so I'm not all doom and gloom, I will say that you will probably save a lot of time and money by looking for a good 3B or even 13BT to swap in... Both would be much more drivable and will provide some more part security than the B. The only reason to keep the B is if you are trying to keep the rig original.

Heck, I have seen some 14B and 15B variants show up for remarkably fair prices recently... If I still had a B series engine, if definitely look at one of those too update to.
15bt would be awesome but unfortunately funds are restricting be to just getting this thing on the road at the moment. Head cracked 6 days out from rego time so i need to find $1000 for rego and $1000 for a head
 
Gotcha... If money is tight, I'd start scouring wrecking yards for long blocks that may have a rebuildable head... Sometimes it is easier to find a good engine in a wrecked truck for less than finding a bare head somewhere... Good luck to you! Cruisers need to be on the road!
 
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Hi Mate don't spose you know if a 11B engine will fit in 13B are the flywheels the Sam size,?

I see quite a few new engine parts available for 3B engines but seldom see any available for my smaller (and less common) B engine. (Looking on places like eBay.)


Yet I know that the following parts are common to both engines:
  • oil filter (Toyota 15600-41010, Ryco Z9, AC PF2, Highway 51016, FRAM PH8A)
  • fuel filter (Ryco Z169A, FRAM P4178, etc)
  • primer pump (Bosch 2 447 010 033, Bosch 2 447 010 038, Bosch 2 447 222 125, Bosch 2 447 222 126, Denso 09219-50)
  • Injection pump diaphragm (Denso 090580-0041) where an "in-line type" injector pump is utilised
  • Glow plugs 8.5V (Toyota 19850-68030 or HKT PT104) - provided the engine utilises 12V-battery-power and provided it has a MANUAL glow sytem (without "superglow" feature)
And it looks like the exhaust manifold and its gasket are "very similar" on both engines too(See posts 12, 14 and 16 below) Edit-12 Sept 08 - They appear to be the same except for that most B engines employ a 2-bolt pipe-flange (compared to the stronger 3-bolt flange on the 3B) and some B engines may use "smaller diameter exhaust manifold studs".



So if anyone knows of other ENGINE PARTS that are interchangeable between these engines, could they please help me by posting replies here?

PS. I'm trying to update this post (and/or #5 post) as I go (with info I gain from working on this thread)

Edit 12 Sept 08 - Post No.4 in this thread talks about starter motor interchangeability: -
Help with starter for B motor - https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/239928-help-starter-b-motor.html
So does post # 32 in this thread: -
BJ40 Starter problems - https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/236917-bj40-starter-problems-2.html#post3650411
And here's another thread:
b and 3b starters and flywheels - https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/242949-b-3b-starters-flywheels.html#post3698334
So it looks like the B engine in a 1979-onwards BJ40 employs the same 2.5kW gear-reduction starter motor as the 3B in a 1982 BJ42 for instance.

But if your looking for a replacement starter motor for your B or 3B engine, check out this thread first:
3B starter compatibility - https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/248398-3b-starter-compatibility.html
As you can see from reading it, you may be able to buy a starter that was designed for an entirely different vehicle (and as such, may be cheaper and more readily-available in your country) and then simply swap your old "starter nose" onto it to make it fit your vehicle.

And this thread here talks about replacing a 2B engine with a 3B.

Problems swapping LHD 3b into RHD 1981 BJ-44 w/2B - https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/246309-problems-swapping-lhd-3b-into-rhd-1981-bj-44-w-2b.html

So it appears that a "latemodel" B or 2B bellhousing bolts straight up to a 3B (as used in a BJ42) with the original B/2B engine mounts able to be re-used on the 3B. (Sounds almost too good to be true!) I guess a feature to look for is that both original and transplant engines have/had "gear-reduction starter motors" - because I have heard of odd-ball early B-engines (with simpler/lower-torque starters) that had significant differences from the 3B (making such transplants very much more difficult.)

Thanks in advance for any help and/or corrections offered.

:cheers:

Note: This all gets a little complicated because two engines can have the same designation (B, 3B or whatever) yet still have differences. For instance I know some 3B engines have rotary injection pumps instead of the more rugged/dependable in-line type. And while a 3B in a BJ42 may use the same glow plugs as my B engine in my BJ40, a 3B in a BJ60 will not. Furthermore, a 24 volt model will CERTAINLY use different glow plugs to a 12 volt model. (Note: Even some 3B-powered BJ42s use different glow plugs. For instance a 1984 12 Volt BJ42 will feature "superglow" and be fitted with 6V plugs.)
 

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