22re remanufacture from a machinists perspective (1 Viewer)

[88repo]

I dont use anything except The Right Stuff...

Ok, so take the pan, is there any skin over time or are you torquing bolts while it's still fully wet?

I'd tend to think snugging the bolts down finger tight then sitting overnight before torquing would be the way to go as it should prevent metal to metal contact but hey, what do I know....

 

[toyotaboy80]

Ok, so take the pan, is there any skin over time or are you torquing bolts while it's still fully wet?

I'd tend to think snugging the bolts down finger tight then sitting overnight before torquing would be the way to go as it should prevent metal to metal contact but hey, what do I know....

Torque it asap. If you cant get it torqued in 5 minutes, start over. By the time you lay down the right stuff, put the pan on, finger all your bolts in 3/4 of a thread and grab the speed wrench, the right stuff is already skinned over. Suck it down in 3 hand tight increments and torque down.

For something like a 2 bolt plate where I need it sealed and can install and torque it in 30 seconds, I will set it hand tight, let it set for a minute or two, and then torque it down.

The actual procedure for most standard wrong stuff is roughly tight enough to see the squeeze, let it set 1 hour, and then torque spec.

Finger tight 24hrs later torque it, IMO, is just going to split the material after its already bonded; it wont be able to flow and will create a leak.

 

[88repo]

Great info, thanks!

Of the 3 pan installs I've done, the only one that sealed 100% was amazingly done while on my back and o/c with the wrong stuff. Other two done on the stand leaked like stuck pigs.

Next one I want right and tight but have a long way to go before that happens.

Anxious to hear about the results of your build.

 

[toyotaboy80]

The previous owner had the oil pan, front cover, water pump, and water pipes all glued on. Zero leaks, no gaskets used. Id assume he would of had to use the right stuff given how hard it came apart.

For what its worth I put it on the pan following the grooves and circling the holes then installed the pan. Putting it on the block and then installing the pan doesnt guarantee theres enough sealant in the right spots to fill the voids in the pan.

Even though youre not supposed to use silicone with paper gaskets, I do....but only the right stuff. An ULTRA thin bead, so thin it barely squeezes out. My theory is that the do not use both ideal came from following the skin over approach and then when it came to torquing it the skinned over sealant would split the paper gasket. When I use the right stuff with a paper gasket I torque it within 30 seconds...extra insurance that it takes care of variance in surface flatness that would otherwise seep or leak when ran with a straight up gasket.

for the 22re pan gasket being cork, I think it is best to delete it entirely.

I'm not expecting any leaks or issues... but who does after spending hours building something...

 

[Mudder]

One thing worth nothing on the 22r(e) oil pans, the earlier styles does use a gasket, the pan as raised bumps going towards the engine block, while the later style uses FPIG and has the recessed grooves pointing away from the engine block.

 

[toyotaboy80]

One thing worth nothing on the 22r(e) oil pans, the earlier styles does use a gasket, the pan as raised bumps going towards the engine block, while the later style uses FPIG and has the recessed grooves pointing away from the engine block.

Good to know.... I've only ever seen the pan with recessed grooves. In the case of requiring the use of the cork gasket I'd right stuff both sides of the gasket with an 1/8" bead and torque asap.

 

[ALX4X4]

Can I ask a layman question for a machinst point of view ? At least in Aus, to have a crank ground, block decked and honed, all the basic stuff, we seem to be asked to pay a lot ( A LOT) more for a 4-cyl diesel engine to be put through what seems to be exactly the same process / machining that a 4-cyl gas engine .
I cant see it costs more to tunnel bore deck and hone a diesel block that a gas, same machine, same operation.
Are we just getting gouged because diesel has a different perception ??
Cheers.

 

[toyotaboy80]

A diesel crank requires more attention to the radius on the journals due to the extra load the crank sees. The radius has to be dressed into the stone, and stones arent cheap. I'd have to check but I think we charge more for a diesel crank.

Setting up decking the block is the same amount of time for a gas or diesel. Although we would charge more for either a gas or diesel application if we had to take extra steps to ensure a specific deck height whether that is zero deck, piston protrusion, or piston recession. That is a much more critical measurement for a diesel engine than gas. A typical gas rebuild you "take what you get" so to speak.

Resizing the piston bore doesnt matter price wise if the bore is integral to the block and can be taken to a nominal oversize. If machining for a sleeve or re&re'ing a sleeve and then honing is required, it costs more.

Generally speaking a diesel engine requires more time and attention to details.