22RE Assistance Need / Live.

[beatdown83fj60]

Holy cow, I really thought some of you guys knew more about the venerable 22RE than this. OK, here's my input:

Pic 1: the distributor on the EFI engines does not have a vacuum advance. The ECU controls the ignition advance. That aluminum part you are referring to is NOT on the distributor, it is on the power steering pump. It's function is to increase the engine idle very slightly if you are at full-lock on the steering, so the engine has enough power to run the pump at maximum pressure.

Pic in post #7: that is the idle up controller, it is part of the AC system. Trucks without AC won't have this thing. When you turn the AC on, a VSV on the valve cover sends vacuum to this thing, which causes the engine idle to increase. Based on your pic #2 in post 3, your VSV is MISSING, so your AC system might not even work properly now. It's supposed to be in the middle if the valve cover, right behind the TOYOTA logo. I am also guessing that the wire connector you posted later on is supposed to attach to this missing VSV.

Tip: The little white knob is where you can set how much the engine idle increases with the AC on. Kinda handy, as I currently don't have the belt on my compressor (compressor is leaking), but if I push my AC switch on the dash, I still get the idle increase. Good for keeping the battery charged up while winching.

Comment: my FSM has never let me down with all this stuff. It's all in there, where each thing goes, where each hose connects, how to test each component, etc. You just have to be patient, read carefully. I find a MitiVac tool very handy to testing devices that work under vacuum.

Haha, I never said I knew anything about them, I was just taking pictures lol.

And yeah, I'm going to one up you and do a 20hp yellow paint on my valve cover!

 

[D'Animal]

So I guess everybody who posted up the 22R and the 22RE is the best engine Toyota ever built really does not know a dang thing about then.



They just stick the key in and turn it.













Nice!




































My wife does that too.

 

[D'Animal]

BIG Thanks to BeatdowFJ60 and 2ndgenerationtoyotafan (Jerod) for taking the time to help me out.


You guys represent the MUD community and what it stands for extremely well.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

Thanks Dan, sorry we couldn't help anymore... it's a bit hard whent hey changed so much emissions stuff year to year, and fed vs. cal, and AC vs. no ac.....

Here's the diagrams for an 89, if they don't help you, maybe they will help someone...

 

[D'Animal]

Thanks Jerod!


The 1988 is an entire different system. Reading the three manuals I have on it they came as:

Non California
Non USA
California
and a M/T version.


I am working on the M/T version. I don't know what that means but the truck was built and bought as a cab & chassis.

I cannot find any diagrams on the M/T version. An as you can see in the pictures it is not the same as the other standard systems.

If I do find some, I will scan them and e-mail them to you so you can add it to the sticky.

 

[D'Animal]

Haha, I never said I knew anything about them, I was just taking pictures lol.

And yeah, I'm going to one up you and do a 20hp yellow paint on my valve cover!

I hear the glossy finish gets you .2 of a hp more.

Thanks again for the pics.

 

[D'Animal]

The top and middle picture in post #44 shows a dashpot but only for M/T versions.

Anybody have any idea what it is supposer to conect too? My book shows it having a VSV and a filter on the end of it.

It was connected to the thing in post#38.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

In my book it shows an exploded view of the dashpot, and it has an internal filter... So yours probably went to an external filter...

all the dp does is slow the final closing of the throttle plate.... shouldn't have anything to do with a vsv, it's just a little springloaded diaphram thing.

 

[D'Animal]

I found out that M/T is manual transmission.

Your are right about the dash pot. It connects to nothing. It just hangs there.

 

[D'Animal]

This is a vacuum solenoid for the aftermarket air conditioner.

KLC was right on this, it is not factory.

Anybody know what this is?

 

[D'Animal]

2ndgenerationtoyotfan


I have a diffferent schematic.

PM me your fax # and I will fax it to you so you can add it to your sticky post.

 

[D'Animal]

I drove it to the Smog Shop / Mechanics Garage. This is the only mechanic that works on my rigs other than me. He double checked everything and said it was all hooked up correctly.

The fuel that was in the tank has been in it for a few years. I added 9 gallons of 91 octane and continued to drive it.

On the way home, I lost #2 cylinder.

I adjusted the valves again and it runs fine until it gets warm. I set the inake at .010 and the exhaust at .012. This was when the engine was warm. The book has a Engine Cold Range setting of .011 - .014 for the intake and .012 - .015 on the exhaust. I can drive it for about 10 miles and then #2 cylinder fades away.

I waited for the rig to completely cool down. I set the intake at .013 and the exhaust at .014 with the engine cold. Again it runs fine until it gets warm. I can drive it for about 10 miles and then #2 cylinder fades away.

Autolite spark plug and it does not matter if I change holes with another cylinder. It is always the #2 cylinder.

Anybody have any suggestions?

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

That's an odd one.... have you checked the cold compression? Maybe one of the #2 valves is binding when it warms up....

Once it's warm and #2 is dead, I'd set #2 to TDC and stick an air hose in the spark plug hole, and see if it's coming out the intake, exhause, or blowing by the rings.

Also, the valve lash settings are .008 (Int.)and .012 (Ex.) inches Cold, some people set them to .007 and .011

Going bigger shouldn't be a big issue, except for more noise.... If it were too tight, it could hold the valve open, but that's obviously not the problem if you're over....

 

[D'Animal]

Thanks

 

[D'Animal]

The valve lash settings are .008 (Int.)and .012 (Ex.) inches Cold, some people set them to .007 and .011

...

For a 22RE? WOW, my book must be wrong or I read it wrong. I will reset the valves.

 

[D'Animal]

No Change after the valve adjustment

 

[KLF]

What do you mean by #2 "fades away"? Does it just start to miss? Is there any other noise? Have you checked for fuel and spark on this cylinder?

Assuming it passes these tests, my next step would be to get it good and warmed up, then perform a cylinder leak-down test. Not a compression test, a genuine leak-down test. Then you will know if you have a problem with the valvetrain or engine.

 

[D'Animal]

What do you mean by #2 "fades away"? Does it just start to miss? Is there any other noise? Have you checked for fuel and spark on this cylinder?

Assuming it passes these tests, my next step would be to get it good and warmed up, then perform a cylinder leak-down test. Not a compression test, a genuine leak-down test. Then you will know if you have a problem with the valvetrain or engine.

It does not loose spark.


I took it to the smog station and had my buddy check it out. He said the valve is stuck open based on the emmission numbers.

 

[2ndGenToyotaFan]

That's an odd one... Have you run cold compression yet?

 

[CruisinMT]

damn i feel bad for you californians and your smog crap