2016-17 LC200 Aussie Nudge Bar (1 Viewer)

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CAN WE? Yes
WILL WE? Not likely. I am planning on buying a new 200, so my interest is limited to the later version. We do not stock/sell bumpers, so it is outside of our usual wheelhouse.....in addition, there are a hell of a lot more 08-15 rigs out there and more of them are getting modified, so it is a much larger market if we were to view the product as a stock item.

Why not give @reevesci a shout - he is building LC 200 armor already and is a great vendor. Maybe he can do up something that will work for you. Heck, if he had a version for the 16+ series, using OEM style four-point mount, I might go that way as well. :)

W,

I'm curious as to the tube diameter (metric or std) of the nudge bar. I'd be willing if my dies are large enough. I can go up to a 2.5" 6.5CL radius. 2.5" DOM isn't cheap, but willing to give it a try if a few people were interested.

J
 
W,

I'm curious as to the tube diameter (metric or std) of the nudge bar. I'd be willing if my dies are large enough. I can go up to a 2.5" 6.5CL radius. 2.5" DOM isn't cheap, but willing to give it a try if a few people were interested.

J

I don't have a flexible tape to measure, but believe when I have bought the OEM Aussie Nudge Bar, I have found a reference that the Bar is 3inch diameter. So 2.5 will be very close and hard to spot the difference.
 
W,

I'm curious as to the tube diameter (metric or std) of the nudge bar. I'd be willing if my dies are large enough. I can go up to a 2.5" 6.5CL radius. 2.5" DOM isn't cheap, but willing to give it a try if a few people were interested.

J
Thanks, J / Luke
For me, a larger issue would be replication of the OEM connection through the grille surround so that diameter and material of bar is supported by 3rd and 4th mounting points. Hate to spend all that green only to have some yokel back into the truck fast enough to bend the bar back into the bodywork.

No expert on design, material or fabrication.....:)

upload_2017-2-17_12-42-5.png
 
Thanks, J / Luke
For me, a larger issue would be replication of the OEM connection through the grille surround so that diameter and material of bar is supported by 3rd and 4th mounting points. Hate to spend all that green only to have some yokel back into the truck fast enough to bend the bar back into the bodywork.

No expert on design, material or fabrication.....:)

View attachment 1403750

Looks like a full slide adjustment bracket which = no structural integrity in a bump/collision condition, IMO. Most nudge bars are fully supported by the lower frame mount position only (the ones I've seen). If you want full protection, these are not the way to go. IMO, most aftermarket nudge bars are more of a beautification add-on than a protection device. They can be made strong and useful. Just need to look at it.

J
 
Looks like a full slide adjustment bracket which = no structural integrity in a bump/collision condition, IMO. Most nudge bars are fully supported by the lower frame mount position only (the ones I've seen). If you want full protection, these are not the way to go. IMO, most aftermarket nudge bars are more of a beautification add-on than a protection device. They can be made strong and useful. Just need to look at it.

J
Could be - I am certainly no expert. Cannot opine on all the items part of the OEM kit and to what degree that design and execution can stand up to a minor nudge.

If "most" afternarket nudge bars do not provide "full" protection, have you seen any, Jason? I ordered a Westin for my Tacoma and when I saw how light it was and how it attached, gave it to a friend.

Maybe Luke can provide some real-world testing for us. Concrete bridge abutment at 5 mph? Video would be appreciated! :)

upload_2017-2-17_13-3-13.png
 
Could be - I am certainly no expert. Cannot opine on all the items part of the OEM kit and to what degree that design and execution can stand up to a minor nudge.

If "most" afternarket nudge bars do not provide "full" protection, have you seen any, Jason? I ordered a Westin for my Tacoma and when I saw how light it was and how it attached, gave it to a friend.

Maybe Luke can provide some real-world testing for us. Concrete bridge abutment at 5 mph? Video would be appreciated! :)

View attachment 1403755

I'd like to see the bracket up close. Maybe the slots I'm seeing are for "lightening" purposes, instead of adjustment. I see a round hole in front of the slotted ones.

For a cruiser no, but for full size trucks the Aries and Lund are WELL TESTED here in Wyoming with all the speed goats. They hold up well at 65+ mph and a 100-150# goat.

J
 
I'd like to see the bracket up close. Maybe the slots I'm seeing are for "lightening" purposes, instead of adjustment. I see a round hole in front of the slotted ones.

For a cruiser no, but for full size trucks the Aries and Lund are WELL TESTED here in Wyoming with all the speed goats. They hold up well at 65+ mph and a 100-150# goat.

J
If I bring one (or more) in we can give you a look. Have you been into the front end on a 200 Series to see where an OEM (or Trail Tailor) bar might attach? Might be a way to split the difference.

Good to know there are some products out there that will work - at least on full size trucks.
 
If I bring one (or more) in we can give you a look. Have you been into the front end on a 200 Series to see where an OEM (or Trail Tailor) bar might attach? Might be a way to split the difference.

Good to know there are some products out there that will work - at least on full size trucks.


W,

A little when I was doing some previous R&D.

I will become very intimate in the next 2-6 weeks with a 200. Full on custom armor build.

J
 
I'd like to see the bracket up close. Maybe the slots I'm seeing are for "lightening" purposes, instead of adjustment. I see a round hole in front of the slotted ones.

For a cruiser no, but for full size trucks the Aries and Lund are WELL TESTED here in Wyoming with all the speed goats. They hold up well at 65+ mph and a 100-150# goat.

J

No adjustment slots. When mounting the holes overlap. I would assume slots you are referring can be used to zip tie cables if attaching lights, etc...

Also big design thing are top brackets. They are holding all the weight. Massive, comparing to bottom attachments.
 
No adjustment slots. When mounting the holes overlap. I would assume slots you are referring can be used to zip tie cables if attaching lights, etc...

Also big design thing are top brackets. They are holding all the weight. Massive, comparing to bottom attachments.
Luke -
To review, do I have this right?
• Toyota OEM
• 3" Stainless Steel - no need to powdercoat / paint prior to installation or for repair
•. Top and bottom mounting points
• Crash tested and airbag compliant / compatible
•. Mounting points and tabs for lights, antennae, etc.
•. 40 lbs approx.
•. Would the plate bracket you removed have provided part of a mounting point for a small LED light bar?

The Australian motor transport regulators seem to pretty picky about lift kits and accessories so I would think that between them and Toyota, this is a pretty robust product.

I am going to do this. Thanks for your leadership, patience and support.

Early research suggests a door-to-door package cost of around US$1,000 can be possible.
 
Luke -
To review, do I have this right?
• Toyota OEM
• 3" Stainless Steel - no need to powdercoat / paint prior to installation or for repair
•. Top and bottom mounting points
• Crash tested and airbag compliant / compatible
•. Mounting points and tabs for lights, antennae, etc.
•. 40 lbs approx.
•. Would the plate bracket you removed have provided part of a mounting point for a small LED light bar?

The Australian motor transport regulators seem to pretty picky about lift kits and accessories so I would think that between them and Toyota, this is a pretty robust product.

I am going to do this. Thanks for your leadership, patience and support.

Early research suggests a door-to-door package cost of around US$1,000 can be possible.

Spot on. Regarding license plate bracket I have removed. It would easily be able to handle heavier attachments as it was soldered to the pipe. Since is stainless steel the local shop easily removed it and polished the pipe. Paid for an hour of labor and I have slight three marks where it was attached (light scratches).
If left and wanting to use it as light bar attachment, only draw back would be if the light bar put at front of it, that would be more forward than something top mounted and visually may not look good (unless light bar is fairly skinny). If installed below the bracket, it could be used as attachment and may be a better approach. Personally I have decided to remove for visual best look.
 
Thanks for confirmation. Yeah, was thinking small/slim light bar below and inside.
 
I am doing OEM kit for 2016-17-18, etc. - suggest aftermarket or Trail Tailor for earlier rigs.
 
Also, earlier OEM nurf bars are a little different as below

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