Just did this one myself. Interstate 27f, $135.99 out the door.
2013 LX Battery/Alternator (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jjtrou2072
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
My local dealer wants $438.89 plus tax for alternator part number 27330-38140...
You might end up having no choice but to buy a new alternator.
You do have a choice on what alternator you buy. And now you have an excuse.
I've used these guys a few times for fire trucks. Good product, fast shipping.
-FYI
I don't like the cut scenes where they transition from the part being INSIDE the engine bay to OUTSIDE the engine bay. Always makes me suspicious to their claims of how "easy" it is. I will gladly defer to someone who's done this, but I appreciate honest people without the movie magic of furthering their shill/hits/money train.
I wasn't able to pull mine through the passenger wheel well. Just wasn't enough room. I've got some more notes on my post regarding my alternator replacement.
forum.ih8mud.com
Alternator Replacement / Battery Dash Light Fix
Just wanted to give folks some more insight into an alternator replacement on the 200. I had the battery dash light pop up on me the other day. Checked voltage on the battery while running and was only getting 11.6v or so. The alternator needed to be replaced. If you're a search nut like myself...
forum.ih8mud.com
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #25
New battery is in.
Alternator is not charging, just picked up a new one from Toyota.
About to start tearing it apart.
I appreciate any and all tips on getting the old one out.
About to read the thread linked above before i get started.
Alternator is not charging, just picked up a new one from Toyota.
About to start tearing it apart.
I appreciate any and all tips on getting the old one out.
About to read the thread linked above before i get started.
- Thread starter
- #26
Here is what a $500 alternator looks like.
I also didn't realize they were "reman" units through Toyota.
I also didn't realize they were "reman" units through Toyota.
It's not as hard as you think to get the radiator out after you pull the two large hoses, transmission cooler hoses, and cowl/fan.
There are four bolts (one per corner) and it lifts right out.
There are four bolts (one per corner) and it lifts right out.
- Thread starter
- #28
Thank you for this info.I wasn't able to pull mine through the passenger wheel well. Just wasn't enough room. I've got some more notes on my post regarding my alternator replacement.
Alternator Replacement / Battery Dash Light Fix
Just wanted to give folks some more insight into an alternator replacement on the 200. I had the battery dash light pop up on me the other day. Checked voltage on the battery while running and was only getting 11.6v or so. The alternator needed to be replaced. If you're a search nut like myself...
One question. I just want to confirm that you did not have to remove the radiator?
Nope. There was enough room without the fan, shroud and hoses in the way to pull up and out.
- Thread starter
- #30
One more question. Did you unbolt the power steering pump?
Pretty sure I didn't need to.
- Thread starter
- #32
Ok thanks.
After getting everything out of the way I think I've got decent access to the bottom 2 bolts but the top one is making me think I may have to take the power steering pump loose.
The pic is looking in from wheel well.
- Thread starter
- #33
New alternator is in.
Voltmeter shows it charging at 14volts.
Battery light gone.
Here is roughly the steps I took.
1. Remove passenger side wheel / tire. Take out two plastic clips and rotate the wheel liner up out of your way.
2. Remove Bottom Shields/Fan/Shroud/Radiator Hoses and Serpentine Belt. I also dropped the sway bar (4 17mm Bolts) to give more access from below.
3. Loosen the transmission cooler hard lines by taking the bolt out of the front bracket (On Alternator). And the bolt on the backside bracket close to transmission. *This step is necessary to give yourself room to get the bottom 2 Alternator bolts out.
4. Remove bottom two alternator bolts. Even with loose transmission lines this step is still a PITA. I attacked this from below.
5. I wound up removing the power steering pump. (2) 14mm bolts come out through the front of the PS pulley. Then a prybar through the wheel well to get it out of its bracket. I used a coat hanger to hold it up out of the way once it's free.
6. Once the PS pump is clear, it's a straight shot from the wheel well to the remaining bolt and nut holding the alternator in place.
7. Lastly I Disconnected the plug and 12mm nut holding down the power terminal then fished the alternator up through the front of the engine bay on the Driver's side.
This took basically a whole day for me granted I'm not a professional. I'm sure there are others who could do it faster with less steps.
Voltmeter shows it charging at 14volts.
Battery light gone.
Here is roughly the steps I took.
1. Remove passenger side wheel / tire. Take out two plastic clips and rotate the wheel liner up out of your way.
2. Remove Bottom Shields/Fan/Shroud/Radiator Hoses and Serpentine Belt. I also dropped the sway bar (4 17mm Bolts) to give more access from below.
3. Loosen the transmission cooler hard lines by taking the bolt out of the front bracket (On Alternator). And the bolt on the backside bracket close to transmission. *This step is necessary to give yourself room to get the bottom 2 Alternator bolts out.
4. Remove bottom two alternator bolts. Even with loose transmission lines this step is still a PITA. I attacked this from below.
5. I wound up removing the power steering pump. (2) 14mm bolts come out through the front of the PS pulley. Then a prybar through the wheel well to get it out of its bracket. I used a coat hanger to hold it up out of the way once it's free.
6. Once the PS pump is clear, it's a straight shot from the wheel well to the remaining bolt and nut holding the alternator in place.
7. Lastly I Disconnected the plug and 12mm nut holding down the power terminal then fished the alternator up through the front of the engine bay on the Driver's side.
This took basically a whole day for me granted I'm not a professional. I'm sure there are others who could do it faster with less steps.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #34
I was thinking about potential reasons my alternator failed.
The bearings showed no signs of failure, there was really no discernable play in the pulley or noise from the unit which I thought was pretty impressive for approx. 160K miles. To be honest it was in pretty good shape once I got it out.
Here is what I think happened. Pure speculation.
I replaced the radiator in the truck a few weeks back (probably a month ago), and did not replace the skids as I was also planning on changing the oil a few days later.
Well those "few days" turned into a month that the wife drove around with no bottom shields... through multiple springs showers etc...
I'm sure it was time for it to go, but I also find the timing pretty coincidental.
I've seen enough water fording videos on youtube that result in a bad alternator to know these things don't like water.
If anything the added moisture probably helped end the life of an already failing regulator.
Shields maybe more important than I thought due to Toyota's decision to place the alternator so low in the bay.
My .02 cents.
The bearings showed no signs of failure, there was really no discernable play in the pulley or noise from the unit which I thought was pretty impressive for approx. 160K miles. To be honest it was in pretty good shape once I got it out.
Here is what I think happened. Pure speculation.
I replaced the radiator in the truck a few weeks back (probably a month ago), and did not replace the skids as I was also planning on changing the oil a few days later.
Well those "few days" turned into a month that the wife drove around with no bottom shields... through multiple springs showers etc...
I'm sure it was time for it to go, but I also find the timing pretty coincidental.
I've seen enough water fording videos on youtube that result in a bad alternator to know these things don't like water.
If anything the added moisture probably helped end the life of an already failing regulator.
Shields maybe more important than I thought due to Toyota's decision to place the alternator so low in the bay.
My .02 cents.
