2013 LX Battery/Alternator (1 Viewer)

[jjtrou2072]

I am out of town for work at the moment.
The battery indicator lit up on the wife's LX570 last night on her way home.
I figured the battery was just getting older and it was letting us know we need to replace soon. (Hoped it would make it till I get back on Friday).

She sent me a pic of the voltmeter while it was running and it seemed low but I don't drive it everyday. Started thinking it may be the Alternator.

Well today the dashboard lit up with the dreaded "Check 4-Wheel AHC System" followed by the radio screen flickering just as she pulled into the driveway.

It's not moving from the driveway until I get home.
What does the forum think is the issue, step one for me is gonna be a new battery but how should I diagnose the Alternator?

 

[grinchy]

That's an alternator probably. And if it has been running on battery to make up for the missing alternator power, then possibly also a battery. Definitely have the battery load tested.

 

[jjtrou2072]

I was afraid of that. I just replaced the radiator a few weeks back. Replaced all the front end pulleys and hoses. I thought the alternator was pretty bullet proof so left it alone.

Kicking myself for not replacing it.

That's an alternator probably. And if it has been running on battery to make up for the missing alternator power, then possibly also a battery. Definitely have the battery load tested.

 

[doru]

Kicking myself for not replacing it.

Don't. Noone replaces alternators preventively. They are very long lasting.
Test the battery/charge it and drive to the local auto store to have the alternator tested. Some store require the alternator out of the truck.

BUT before blaming the alternator, make sure the battery is good. It is very likely the battery is to blame. I'm not familiar with the 200 wiring, but in other cars that I own the car is running off the battery not the alternator and the voltmeter shows the battery not the alternator output. So a bad battery results in a Christmas tree dashboard. That is on both my Volvo and Subaru.

 

[TeCKis300]

Definitely the voltmeter is confirming something is up as it's showing the system running at ~11V. That should never be the case with the engine running as the alternator should have the system voltage closer to 13-13.5V when idle and fully warm. Initial startup will show closer to 14V.

Consider the battery done whether it's the causal issue or not, as it's been stressed and likely sulfated at this point.

Question is whether the alternator and I think there's some strong hints it might be. It's plausable the battery can pull down the system voltage enough with a short. But with a 185A alternator, generally not and I think there is something going on there.

 

[jjtrou2072]

Definitely the voltmeter is confirming something is up as it's showing the system running at ~11V. That should never be the case with the engine running as the alternator should have the system voltage closer to 13-13.5V when idle and fully warm. Initial startup will show closer to 14V.

Consider the battery done whether it's the causal issue or not, as it's been stressed and likely sulfated at this point.

Question is whether the alternator and I think there's some strong hints it might be. It's plausable the battery can pull down the system voltage enough with a short. But with a 185A alternator, generally not and I think there is something going on there.

Yeah those are my thoughts and gameplan.

I'm going to go ahead and start trying to source an alternator. (OEM)

Is there a resource for testing voltage/Amp output of the alternator? Also what about replacement. I've searched and read a few threads about how big of a PITA it is but haven't found a comprehensive DIY thread.

Still holding out hope it's somehow just a battery issue.

 

[jjtrou2072]

There are a few LC alternator videos on YouTube but most pertain to the diesel segment.

I did run across some folks using "brushless" alternators which I guess handle dirt, grime, water better than a standard version with brushes. My instinct is to stick with OEM.

 

[TeCKis300]

You might look for a tundra video

 

[KLF]

Many of the larger chain parts stores (AutoZone, Kragens, etc) will test an alternator for free. Not sure if it has to be removed or if they can do it out in the parking lot, but it doesn't sound like your truck is mobile.

If you're gonna go to the trouble of pulling it out, might as well replace it.

 

[jjtrou2072]

Many of the larger chain parts stores (AutoZone, Kragens, etc) will test an alternator for free. Not sure if it has to be removed or if they can do it out in the parking lot, but it doesn't sound like your truck is mobile.

If you're gonna go to the trouble of pulling it out, might as well replace it.

Yeah I am planning on going ahead and bolting in a new battery. So If it is an alternator issue then I guess it would be mobile until the system drains it.

 

[jjtrou2072]

My local dealer wants $438.89 plus tax for alternator part number 27330-38140...

 

[doru]

While you are getting the battery, if you don't already have, get a charger that is compatible the battery you are getting (e.g. AMG). This way, you are not risking killing the new battery, keeping it charged between the short runs.
Shop online to. Local dealer depending on where you live can charge double or more the online dealers.

 

[jjtrou2072]

While you are getting the battery, if you don't already have, get a charger that is compatible the battery you are getting (e.g. AMG). This way, you are not risking killing the new battery, keeping it charged between the short runs.
Shop online to. Local dealer depending on where you live can charge double or more the online dealers.

I'm sure there is a lot of debate around batteries, but if I wanted a slight upgrade over original is there a clear recommendation?

 

[doru]

I believe there is not perfect battery. Battery has to match the vehicle and how the owner is using it. The factory put in a battery that is good for most of the customers and aligns with their bottom line, not specially for you.
Examples: I run a lithium battery on my super sport bike because I care mostly about the battery weight. I run a 2 sizes larger AGM battery for my wagon to cope with lots of electrical demand (there is space for it in the trunk from the factory). For my kid Suby I run a deep discharge battery to protect against frequent deep discharges - listening to the music with friends in the parking lot. The Suby battery space is very limited.
There is a battery pack starting device in every car to jump strat it if in need. The lithium battery on the bike has a special button to start the engine even when battery run out (that battery is not cheap).
For my truck ... previous owner just replaced the battery, so I had no need to replace it yet.
But if I need to replace questions to ask are: am I going to go dual battery in the future? If not then I'll look for high capacity or a lithium battery (same physical size but higher capacity). Do I often run the battery down? If yes, either a deep discharge or a lithium battery is in order. Between acid and AGM I prefere AGM batteries. Do I regularly spend time in remote areas, or is my truck more of a mall crawler?
For traditional batteries a good source is Costco. The batteries are Interstate. Friend and I had good luck with Costco batteries and service. My wagon runs one.
I also had good luck in the past with Duralast Gold (sold at Sears), but that was a while ago before the Sears fiasco.
I run Optima red and yellow top batteries on my Toyota and Suby respectively.
Previous owner put a Duralast Autozone battery in my truck. Nothing exciting, but it runs so I'll leave it alone.

Sorry for not giving you more concrete info about batteries for our trucks.

 

[gasman4u]

most of the auto stores near me (advance, batteries plus, etc) all have a tester that checks the battery and alternator concurrently. They don't want to warranty a ton of batteries if it's the alternator. like @TeCKis300 said, I would replace the battery regardless. Maybe you'll get lucky and someone will have mercy on you if you go to where they sell your battery and it's in warranty. I wouldn't count on it though.

 

[bicycleagent003]

It's pretty hard to beat the Interstate battery at Costco, on price, availability and warranty. Just my two cents. And assuming you're not running dual batteries, a fridge, winch, etc.

 

[32cls6speedmt]

Temps have been rising. Hopefully it is just your battery. I have 13 lx and have to replace battery every 2.5 years due to heat. Heat kills batteries. Luckily I get my batteries from Costco. No questions asked. Free replacement.

Auto parts store attempt to charge the replacement batteries. Wastes about one hour while you are waiting.

 

[Sandroad]

One thing not mentioned yet is bad connections at the terminals or ground. You indicated the battery might be old so the connections might be giving up. That could cause the symptoms. So pop in a new one and clean up the connections real well. Then see how things are. I'd suggest either a Toyota/Lexus Truestart or a 27F Interstate from Costco. Either will serve you well and have good warranties.

 

[jjtrou2072]

Wife is picking up the Costco Interstate Special to have on deck when I get back home.
Also have an Alternator on deck at the local dealer.

Here is my plan of attack:
1. Install battery.
2. Test voltage / amps with truck OFF.
3. Test voltage / amps with truck ON.
4. Hope voltage / amps with truck ON is higher than with it OFF.

If not then start tearing apart the front of the engine bay to try and get to the Alternator.
If this happens I will try and document it for others cause I am not turning up much in the way of Alternator replacement threads on the 5.7 200/LX.

Let me know if you would do something different.
Should be a fun weekend.

 

[SF1911A1]

Wife is picking up the Costco Interstate Special to have on deck when I get back home.
Also have an Alternator on deck at the local dealer.

Here is my plan of attack:
1. Install battery.
2. Test voltage / amps with truck OFF.
3. Test voltage / amps with truck ON.
4. Hope voltage / amps with truck ON is higher than with it OFF.

If not then start tearing apart the front of the engine bay to try and get to the Alternator.
If this happens I will try and document it for others cause I am not turning up much in the way of Alternator replacement threads on the 5.7 200/LX.

Let me know if you would do something different.
Should be a fun weekend.

Does this method work on the 200?