2013 dies repeatedly while driving down the road (1 Viewer)

[CharlieS]

I'll pull it apart tomorrow morning and report bacK.

yep sounds like clogged fuel filter or whatever you have in the line. Had this happen many times.........and like others have said it could easily be something electronic. Stick an OBDll on it or just go to a mechanic. Sounds like something simple that could drive you crazy. )

 

[TeCKis300]

This firmly doesn't sound like a fuel, spark, or air issue. Any issue relating to those effecting the vehicle to this degree would absolutely set codes.

I agree with you that this seems electrical.

Something in the main power source wires as you said the cluster has gone dark.

The grounds are part of the power mains. I'd check those. There's many throughout the chassis. To the sides of the engine bay. Ground straps to the motor.

 

[chilibit]

If a filter is unable to deliver sufficient fuel the vehicle merely sees no fuel and shuts down. I don't think a code is thrown but I don't know that for certain. I would start the vehicle, leave it in park and time the shutdown. It should run longer than a minute and 15 seconds because the demand is reduced. The fact that it restarts immediately argues against my theory. Often the filter that protects the fuel pump is separate from the one that protects the injectors.

 

[CharlieS]

If a filter is unable to deliver sufficient fuel the vehicle merely sees no fuel and shuts down. I don't think a code is thrown but I don't know that for certain. I would start the vehicle, leave it in park and time the shutdown. It should run longer than a minute and 15 seconds because the demand is reduced. The fact that it restarts immediately argues against my theory. Often the filter that protects the fuel pump is separate from the one that protects the injectors.

With the car idling, in park, it runs approximately 1 minute and 15 seconds from start to stall. It does this over and over as many times as I try it.

 

[99Cruiser]

Do you have remote start? Maybe the module is acting up.

 

[Phalen302]

Pretty certain fuel is cutting off. Check fuel pump, classic symptoms.

 

[coleAK]

It’s sounding more like fuel delivery. Maybe bad gas clogged a filter or there’s a fuel pump/relay issue, who knows. Plz let us know what they find and for your sake I hope it’s an easy fix.

This is exactly what I thought was I read through the OP

 

[coleAK]

Do you have remote start? Maybe the module is acting up.

We have a comustar on our MB that cuts all the electronics off (gauges, lights, ...) at random.

 

[bloc]

Often the filter that protects the fuel pump is separate from the one that protects the injectors.

US market 200s only have the fuel pump screen. No other fuel filter on our systems.

 

[bloc]

You might have to get a spare fuel supply hose to cut up, as the line has quick disconnect fittings on both ends, but installing a gauge would quickly establish whether this is a fuel supply issue.

That line is 23271-38050 and about $30 from an online parts discount site.

 

[elk]

An issue with a ground strap seems like a possibility, but the consistent timing would seem to indicate otherwise. Perhaps check the fuel pressure to measure pump performance.

 

[CharlieS]

Do you have remote start? Maybe the module is acting up.

Nope, no remote start.

 

[CharlieS]

An issue with a ground strap seems like a possibility, but the consistent timing would seem to indicate otherwise. Perhaps check the fuel pressure to measure pump performance.

Good idea. It'll take a few days to get the parts to make this tool, but it seems like a good diagnostic test. Thanks

 

[GordJ]

I’m no expert but my boat has a Chevy v8 and we had issues with some relays failing intermittently. Just tossing out the possibility that a failing relay can be tripping as it gets loaded and then cooling down and resetting itself. I don’t have the expertise to know if a faulty relay (fuel pump?) will throw a code if it isn’t overloaded. We tracked down the boat issue by touching the relays with the engine running.

 

[linuxgod]

If you need a copy of techstream PM me, I have one that works on 64-bit Windows 7 and Windows 10

 

[camino70]

From the 100 forum @getco:

How-To: TechStream In 5 Minutes

Getting Techstream up and running can be a bit of a pain. Hopefully this helps someone get started quickly. Step 1: Purchase an OBD-II / Mini-VCI interface. - I have sold out of my cables and supply chains are back in order, so no reason to purchase more. Anything like this will work: Mini-VCI...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[CharlieS]

I'm suspicious of my engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.

Does anyone have the resistance values for a good ECT sensor, and know the range of plausible temperature readings?

I've been doing some testing and real-time monitoring with my scan tool and the ECT reads about 150 degrees Fahrenheit, which seems implausibly low. The scanner highlights this in a different color than all other readings, which I am speculating is an indication that it is outside of the range of plausible values.

My current line of reasoning is that if the ECT is bad, the ECU may be killing power to the fuel pump as a safety measure.

 

[linuxgod]

Coolant temp should run about 195F. I'm going to guess the formula you're using is wrong... I believe the sensor value is -40 to 300 so you need to add 40 degrees in the formula.

Screenshot from my OBD Fusion dashboard. These values are part of the Toyota extended PIDs which I paid an extra $10 for. (As a side note A/T Pan and Engine Oil will get up to 194-196F when I'm not parked. Also "gear" is ony accurate when in D or S).

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm suspicious of my engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.

Does anyone have the resistance values for a good ECT sensor, and know the range of plausible temperature readings?

I've been doing some testing and real-time monitoring with my scan tool and the ECT reads about 150 degrees Fahrenheit, which seems implausibly low. The scanner highlights this in a different color than all other readings, which I am speculating is an indication that it is outside of the range of plausible values.

My current line of reasoning is that if the ECT is bad, the ECU may be killing power to the fuel pump as a safety measure.

I can't say if the readings are good or bad. But it's unlikely that the coolant temp sensor is the direct cause for your problems. It would certainly cause a CEL (which you aren't getting?). Coolant temp effects closed loop and open loop operation, and fuel enrichment. It won't cause a stall like that even if it were completely erroneous.

Can you clarify the situation your gauge cluster when completely dark?

Like I said, it's highly unlikely that it's a fueling or spark issue if it's not setting CELs. If you have an OBD-II reader, take a look at the short term and long term fuel trims. Are they dramatically off? That would suggest the system is compensating for some A/F issue, including fuel pump whatever issues. This would generally result in a CEL. But again, you're not getting that.

 

[ceb]

Sounds like a fuel delivery issue. I'd start at the filter.

Sucks in debris, clogs flow, engine stops. No more suction and clog goes away and the car restarts. It pulls the debris in again and the cycle starts over.