Builds 2010 LX 570 -AHC Delete, Tundra Swap, 4.5" BDS Lift (5 Viewers)

[GJamisonUT]

Amazing.
what are your plans for all them AHC parts?

I might be interested in buying your pump - Wouldn't mind having a spare one on hand.

not sure if you've found a "fix" to disable all the dash lights regarding the missing AHC, or are you just going to put black tape over them?

@radman I think we can work something out if you want the pump, send me a direct message and we'll chat.

As @turbo8 stated, his method disables the AHC with no warning lights. I followed the steps he outlined before removing anything to ensure that it worked as expected.

 

[GJamisonUT]

It's for the better that you're going to have to extend the upper mount. Keeping the trailing arms close to stock angles is going to make a much better handling end product. There would be some significant axle displacement in wheelbase and rotation running at the extreme angles. Panhard bar is going to want the same treatment.

Are you going to do anything to relocate the lower trailing arm? Looks like the pickup point may interfere with the axle housing trying to raise it any. May be more straightforward the lower the mount at the frame rail?

Cool stuff with the 3D modeling!

Moving the trailing arms was something I was going to address sooner or later...both upper and lower...I was just hoping that I'd be able to get by for a bit without having to fab anything in the rear. The only thing like this I had to do on the Sequoia was the panhard, which I had lowered about 5" to bring it back to a horizontal position. I plan on doing the same to the LX, and I also purchased an adjustable panhard and adjustable lower trailing arms to help fine-tune things

 

[Atwalz]

37s on 17s

What wheels you plan to run?

 

[GJamisonUT]

What wheels you plan to run?

I'm thinking Method 704. I like to air down on rough trails, and the 704s are designed to help keep the bead in place at low pressure. I'll probably go with Cooper Discoverer STT Pro tires, but haven't made up my mind yet.

 

[Atwalz]

I'm thinking Method 704. I like to air down on rough trails, and the 704s are designed to help keep the bead in place at low pressure. I'll probably go with Cooper Discoverer STT Pro tires, but haven't made up my mind yet.

Thanks. I am also right behind you. I ordered bds 4.5” kit with fox Coilovers dsc option. I am thinking about retaining RW wheels with a spacers. I already have tundra swap done few years ago. I hope RWs work out. If not I will be looking for wheels and tires. Regear to 4.88 and add lockers at some future date.

 

[GJamisonUT]

Thanks. I am also right behind you. I ordered bds 4.5” kit with fox Coilovers dsc option. I am thinking about retaining RW wheels with a spacers. I already have tundra swap done few years ago. I hope RWs work out. If not I will be looking for wheels and tires. Regear to 4.88 and add lockers at some future date.

Nice! Can't wait to see how your build goes!

 

[afgman786]

Props to both of you!
A friendly race to see who's done first....?

 

[GJamisonUT]

Quick update.

I'm still waiting on my buddy to finish up a project of his own before he can come weld up my stuff. I got the front BDS cross member loosely bolted in place to see how it fit and looks.

Then I went ahead and removed all of the plastic panels for the air dam, and did some trimming in preparation for 37" tires.

This bracket holds the bottom of the bumper cover in place, one on each side of the truck. It sticks out quite a bit, and just looks out of place. I started rounding it down a bit, but then decided to just get it out of the way all together.

I drilled out the the rivets attaching the top piece of the bracket to the aluminum bumper, and then used a bolt and flange nut to secure the bottom piece of the bracket to the bumper through one of the rivet holes. This is surprisingly sturdy, and actually holds the foam that sits between the bumper and the bumper cover in place better than stock (I could wiggle the foam back and forth about an inch before I made this change).

Also did the BDS sway-bar relocation, moving it forward an inch to help clear the new Fox coil-overs, along with the reservoir mounting brackets. Probably going to hit the aluminum bumper with some black chassis paint to help hide it a bit.

 

[grinchy]

Quick update.

I'm still waiting on my buddy to finish up a project of his own before he can come weld up my stuff. I got the front BDS cross member loosely bolted in place to see how it fit and looks.
View attachment 2410640

Then I went ahead and removed all of the plastic panels for the air dam, and did some trimming in preparation for 37" tires.
View attachment 2410646

This bracket holds the bottom of the bumper cover in place, one on each side of the truck. It sticks out quite a bit, and just looks out of place. I started rounding it down a bit, but then decided to just get it out of the way all together.
View attachment 2410647

I drilled out the the rivets attaching the top piece of the bracket to the aluminum bumper, and then used a bolt and flange nut to secure the bottom piece of the bracket to the bumper through one of the rivet holes. This is surprisingly sturdy, and actually holds the foam that sits between the bumper and the bumper cover in place better than stock (I could wiggle the foam back and forth about an inch before I made this change).
View attachment 2410654

Also did the BDS sway-bar relocation, moving it forward an inch to help clear the new Fox coil-overs, along with the reservoir mounting brackets. Probably going to hit the aluminum bumper with some black chassis paint to help hide it a bit.
View attachment 2410657

Nice work. Would love to see a side profile as it sits now with the crash bar bracket attached to the shorter wing.

 

[GJamisonUT]

Nice work. Would love to see a side profile as it sits now with the crash bar bracket attached to the shorter wing.

Here ya go @grinchy

My garage is pretty small, so this is the best I can do for a profile pic at the moment.

 

[Atwalz]

I will probably have to do custom remote resi mount on driver side as kdss is in the way.

 

[GJamisonUT]

View attachment 2411917

I will probably have to do custom remote resi mount on driver side as kdss is in the way.

I didn't even think about that for your rig. Are you going to drop the KDSS mounts or swaybar at all?

 

[Atwalz]

I didn't even think about that for your rig. Are you going to drop the KDSS mounts or swaybar at all?

I am going to retain the KDSS at stock location and use the BDS links supplied in the kit. BDS sway bar links are mounted on the outside of the factory pocket on LCA using longer bolts and spacers. No need to drop KDSS or move it. I am still waiting for the lift to be shipped. Hoping to get it in a week or two, then the fun starts. I will need to make a remote resi mount on the driver's side.

 

[GJamisonUT]

I am going to retain the KDSS at stock location and use the BDS links supplied in the kit. BDS sway bar links are mounted on the outside of the factory pocket on LCA using longer bolts and spacers. No need to drop KDSS or move it. I am still waiting for the lift to be shipped. Hoping to get it in a week or two, then the fun starts. I will need to make a remote resi mount on the driver's side.View attachment 2414918

Sweet. I asked because the reservoir mounts get bolted between the frame and the swaybar relocation plate. As you mentioned, the BDS links mount on the outside of the LCA pockets because the swaybar has been moved forward an inch to prevent contact with the coilovers...but it looks like you're already using a similar setup with the link up front so you're good.

 

[Cruisin911]

I have to ask. If the intended use is increased off road capability, why not SAS it and be done? You likely would have the first SAS 200 series and the articulation would be insane. I see all of this with a drop bracket lift and had to ask.

 

[Chino]

Watching this...
Great work man

 

[GJamisonUT]

I have to ask. If the intended use is increased off road capability, why not SAS it and be done? You likely would have the first SAS 200 series and the articulation would be insane. I see all of this with a drop bracket lift and had to ask.

If I had the ability to do that type of fabrication...and if I was building a off-road only rig...then SAS would be the choice. But I don't have the tools or skills to do that, and I plan on the LX being my daily driver (I work out of my home, no daily commute) and I don't want a rig that handles like a turd on the road. SAS can be dope but it's a whole other can of worms.

 

[Atwalz]

I picked up the BDS lift yesterday and started disassembly, front cross member is installed loosely. I will be cutting rear cross member and start welding later today.

 

[GJamisonUT]

I picked up the BDS lift yesterday and started disassembly, front cross member is installed loosely. I will be cutting rear cross member and start welding later today.

Nice! I ended up deciding to do gears and lockers now while I have the front diff sitting on the ground, so I'm still waiting for parts but should have most of the front end assembled this weekend.

 

[Atwalz]

Nice! I ended up deciding to do gears and lockers now while I have the front diff sitting on the ground, so I'm still waiting for parts but should have most of the front end assembled this weekend.

Makes sense to do gears and lockers while diff is out. In my case, I am having a shop do it in October. They will deal with removing diff then. Did you go with ARB or Harrop? I am going with ARB and 4.88 nitro gears.