George, that is what I found also. Local to me in the Seattle area they wanted around $400 plus tax. Camelback sent it to me in a week (since they had to source it in the midwest at the time), with no tax or shipping at that time. It was a great deal. Thanks must also be given to TexAZ for his great how to write up. I followed it to the letter and it was a great and accurate write up for DIY. There is no good instructions with the radiator and I did not have a shop manual. It took about a day of my time and I am 66, half blind, and slow. lol But I still do my own wrenching.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter jclarke450
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TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
hey @jackiejay29 , you in Yuma?
I lived there for a few years while working out at YPG.
if you ever get over to Phoenix, check out the copper state cruisers. great group of Toyota people.
the service director for camelback is a prominent member......probably why they know cruisers so well!
I lived there for a few years while working out at YPG.
if you ever get over to Phoenix, check out the copper state cruisers. great group of Toyota people.
the service director for camelback is a prominent member......probably why they know cruisers so well!
Just picked one up from Toyota parts deal for $315 shipped.
16400-50384 - Genuine Toyota RADIATOR ASSY
16400-50384 - Genuine Toyota RADIATOR ASSY
As a matter of fact, I am in Yuma AZ. We spend winters there and summers in WA. We will eventually move to Yuma permanently. I will check out the copper state cruisers. Thanks for the tip, TexAZ.
My eyes must escape me. Where is the fracture/failure in this pic?
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
No failure yet, the white line at the lower edge of the part number boss is sign of weakening plastic and immenent failure.
Surprised to see an 08 with only 90k on it. Even more surprised to see the radiator failing with those low miles (low for a cruiser anyway)
Surprised to see an 08 with only 90k on it. Even more surprised to see the radiator failing with those low miles (low for a cruiser anyway)
I see now, thanks. Now I'm paranoid as I'm currently monitoring my 09 LX's coolant levels.
TexAZ
NEW???? It's BETTER than new!!!
That's the spot. Keep an eye on that lower line, if it starts to turn lighter or if you see a hairline crack forming , change it out. Not too expensive and can be done in the driveway.
Looking through this thread, I'm thinking the posted results indicate that the failures are much more closely related to age than miles. To me, it makes sense that age and heat cycles would be more of a factor(s) than miles.
That photo above maximizes the appearance of the current "crack" that's developing. I wiped it down to remove the dust, and the light highlights the dust that is deposited in the crack/joint. For example, there is zero crack at the side joint, yet the dust makes it look like there is. I have other photos where you pretty much can't see any crack at the bottom joint. I'm going to keep an eye on it, probably replace it in another year or so, or sometime when I feel like it. Or, sometime sooner, after the wrecker tows me home after it blows.
You may want to go ahead and order the newest updated LX570/LC200 replacement from Toyota or Lexus and keep on hand, because it seems very, very likely you will need to replace it. Why not have it on hand and do it when you have the time. The best part about not paying robber baron prices for an original '08 radiator is that the updated ones, like I bought last summer, still have the raised number boss, but it sticks up less and is smaller. It should be less prone to cracking there, but who knows? It just looks less sketchy than the '08 design does to me.Looking through this thread, I'm thinking the posted results indicate that the failures are much more closely related to age than miles. To me, it makes sense that age and heat cycles would be more of a factor(s) than miles.
That photo above maximizes the appearance of the current "crack" that's developing. I wiped it down to remove the dust, and the light highlights the dust that is deposited in the crack/joint. For example, there is zero crack at the side joint, yet the dust makes it look like there is. I have other photos where you pretty much can't see any crack at the bottom joint. I'm going to keep an eye on it, probably replace it in another year or so, or sometime when I feel like it. Or, sometime sooner, after the wrecker tows me home after it blows.
Brainstorming...
It occurs to me that one could proactively strengthen that stress point with a fillet of something like JBWeld (specifically PlasticWeld Epoxy Putty). It could potentially repair a leaking seam. But for a radiator that is still stable and intact, it might completely head off any potential failure indefinitely.
I've just talked myself into this. Going to do it. No harm or foul if it doesn't work.
It occurs to me that one could proactively strengthen that stress point with a fillet of something like JBWeld (specifically PlasticWeld Epoxy Putty). It could potentially repair a leaking seam. But for a radiator that is still stable and intact, it might completely head off any potential failure indefinitely.
I've just talked myself into this. Going to do it. No harm or foul if it doesn't work.
Tried that first on my old radiator when it was merely seeping a few drops a day.....did not last. A week later the seeping was back, so I went ahead and ordered a radiator. But, like you said, if it is not yet leaking, it may work. Why not try it? I even tried plastic welding on mine but it was too late. These tanks should be metal in my opinion, but I am old school.
I'm planning to do that. I was going to do some research to see if either the OEM radiator or the Denso model might be any less prone to the crack, but it sounds like you may have already researched it, or at least learned that the OEM has been revised in the crack-prone area. I'm a fan of Denso parts and inclined to go with their version, all else being equal, but if the OEM has a unique upgrade I'd pay a few more bucks for that one...
Yeah, it's probably much trickier once it leaks as the coolant is under pressure. The corner there is a stress riser that fatigues over time with the heating and cooling cycles. I'm thinking a fillet of material will reduce the concentrated forces at the stress riser to prevent fatigue and failure over time.
I got a new OEM installed on my 2015 LX OEM parts price on repair bill shows $415, only thing wrong with the original was a couple of bent fins, no leaks but they wanted to replace everything “new” and OEM. So I have a warranty from my insurance company for as long as I own my LX to replace any part they had to fix if it fails. So I guess I have a lifetime warranty on my radiator trans cooler and horns, lights and radar
So my 2011 LX570 with 101,000 miles has the hairline crack of doom starting to show at the usual place. I'm gonna try to do a high temp, for plastic epoxy patch with a sheet of fiberglass or kevlar, etc. to reinforce it before it starts to leak. I'll let you all know how it goes.
Question for those that have received relief from Toyota/Lexus for the replacement out of warranty. Has anyone been a second (third, ...) owner and still received relief from Corporate? Or do they only help out original owners?
Thanks!
Question for those that have received relief from Toyota/Lexus for the replacement out of warranty. Has anyone been a second (third, ...) owner and still received relief from Corporate? Or do they only help out original owners?
Thanks!
I'm not sure this isn't actually the best place for your radiator to fail. If you make it too stout there, might it fail someplace else and be much more catastrophic?
