gaijin
GOLD Star
I agree that the new SLL Pink can be used in MY2002 and older vehicles that had called for the LL Red, but I don't think we can infer that the LL Red is in any way endorsed for use in newer vehicles that specify the SLL pink.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter jclarke450
- Start date
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I agree that the new SLL Pink can be used in MY2002 and older vehicles that had called for the LL Red, but I don't think we can infer that the LL Red is in any way endorsed for use in newer vehicles that specify the SLL pink.
If you are just doing the radiator and water pump I would expect two total gallons of 50/50 mix to do it (however you get to that mix) and still have some left over. If you are draining the engine block as well (which I wanted to do but couldn't get to the drain plug(s) - then you may need a total of 4 gallons of 50/50 mix fluid. See the attached quick reference guide for the 200. It states the total capacity of the cooling system (including rear heater) as being 16.9 Quarts.....so 4 gallons would be enough to essentially really replace all the fluid (good luck getting that last .9 quarts!
2008 UZJ200 Quick Service Reference Guide.pdf
I can totally understand your point. Quite frankly I was told by the parts guys that the fluids were the same - and up until a little while I ago I thought the pink was just diluted red!... So this initially concerned me. But I've read enough to convince myself that the differences in chemical make up of the two coolants each have some pros and cons. The drain interval on the red is shorter than the pink - but I'm ok with that as I don't plan to go 10 years between flushes. The funny part is that based on what I was reading, the newer fluid seems like it may be less backward compatible than the older fluid is forward compatible.....but I'm not a fluid engineer....unless drinking some nice adult beverages counts towards that degree!
The next time I flush I may go with the pink. This decision just isn't going to keep me up at night!
gaijin
GOLD Star
I wonder how many of the 2008-2010 cruisers with cracked radiators were filled with the red instead of the recommended pink ... just sayin'
Mine was cracked and it was filled with pink as they all were from the factory - so maybe the Pink is the problem and we should all be using Red!I wonder how many of the 2008-2010 cruisers with cracked radiators were filled with the red instead of the recommended pink ... just sayin'
That is not correct based on my experience - SLL Pink is preferred over the LL Red you mention.
Here's what the OM says we should be using:
Note that it specifies "Super Long Life Coolant" aka SLL Coolant.
SLL coolant is commonly known as "Factory Filled Pink Fluid" or simply Toyota Pink. Here's a pic:
I have only been able to find this SLL Pink in the pre-mixed 50:50 dilution.
The Toyota Red you mention is known as "Long Life Coolant" or LL Coolant, or Factory Red. Here's a pic:
The Long Life Toyota Red is NOT simply concentrated Super Long Life Toyota Pink - they are different.
It is important to use the Toyota Super Long Life Pink Coolant, not the older Long Life Red.
HTH
Edit to Add:
The Super Long Life Pink Coolant should be about $15/Gallon at your dealer: 00272-SLLC2 - Genuine Toyota SUPER LONG LIFE COOL
After hazard fee and shipping $110 for 2 gallons lol 2017-05-16_1621
gaijin
GOLD Star
In all fairness, I did say, "... at your dealer." This means you will have to actually go to an actual brick and mortar store and buy it - I know, I'm stuck in the Stone Age, right?
Markuson
SILVER Star
mine finally got the crack. 2008 lx w/ 147K miles. Looking at the radiator it seems to make sense why the crack develops there. as the plastic expands and contracts on its heat cycles, the thicker portion will expand/contract at a different rate and therefore there is a flex point at the base of the square portion where they part number is painted on. this creates a failure point. they need to lose the 'raised square' portion and everything will be fine.
what else should I fix while I am getting this repaired? why do people repair the fan clutch?
what else should I fix while I am getting this repaired? why do people repair the fan clutch?
Water pump if you have not changed yet. Also check if the "valley" coolant leak has started. They can check towards the back of the motor. Hope they you don't have that- gets pricy quickly.
Has anyone correlated lot numbers on the failed parts, assuming that's even possible to determine by the user?
Also, I haven't seen any 2010 model year owners chime in with failures. Mine is a 2010, 140k miles, and as far as I know everything under the hood is original. No sign of crack or leakage of any kind.
I assume the 931-32600 is a lot number or code for manufacture date?
Also, I haven't seen any 2010 model year owners chime in with failures. Mine is a 2010, 140k miles, and as far as I know everything under the hood is original. No sign of crack or leakage of any kind.
I assume the 931-32600 is a lot number or code for manufacture date?
I read with great interest the above thread. Thanks to all who contributed such helpful information. Then I said to myself, "self", surely Toyota got the message on the design of this part on later model 200's. Nonetheless, I had to go out in the garage and pop the hood on my 2017 to see if the top of the radiator had that same raised molded area for what appears to be a part number. Yes there it was, in front of god and everybody! 
Now I have no way of knowing if the manufacturer got the message or if structural changes were incorporated but I guess the stupid question of the day is, are owners of later models going to have to deal with this too. It maybe just a rhetorical question at this point and I owe it to myself to do a little further research but it sure came as a surprise.
Now I have no way of knowing if the manufacturer got the message or if structural changes were incorporated but I guess the stupid question of the day is, are owners of later models going to have to deal with this too. It maybe just a rhetorical question at this point and I owe it to myself to do a little further research but it sure came as a surprise.
Only time will tell. With a '17 you've got a lot of time at least!
About 4 years and 60k miles until I saw the crack.
Most of what has been posted so far, including myself has been about double that. 9 years and 158k on my LX. I figured more of a heat and age vs mileage thing. Might have to rethink that. I'll be disappointed if I only get 4 years and 60k out of the replacement rad or if I only get that on our '16.
You have the 4.6 correct? Any other feedback from others with that engine you know of? It could be more susceptible than even the 5.7 application.
Yep, 4.6L 1UR-FE.
Dec 12 build date and basically stock and limited off-road work and limited towing work. All servicing up to date and used from 0 C in winter to 45 C in summer.
The crack was fine and probably would have lasted a few years until failure, so 4.5 yrs + 2 yrs (my guess until failure) = similar to other reports in this thread.
Are you sure there isn't a crack in the corner? Wipe with a damp cloth to clean, then look carefully.
Hard to tell in your photo if that is dust or a very fine crack appearing. Get a magnifying glass if you need.
Positive. She's crack free.
For anyone keeping stats, my radiator just failed in my 2008 with 115K miles. Very disappointing given my past 12 year, 300K, virtually trouble free experience with my 100. I'll be following up with Toyota on this issue.
Markuson
SILVER Star
My 100 series radiator had the same failure at about the same time...from (I believe) the same design flaw of making the part number spot a weak point in the effort to make a flat stamp surface.
If you never had a radiator failure in 300k miles on your 100? Consider yourself lucky...because they were a common problem.
