I’ve read where a few members had full replacements compliments of Toyota while others received a $300 credit towards the bill. But my local dealer wanted $125 just to look at it in order to get a case started which is a gamble. I figured I’d just put that towards the cost of the part and do it myself.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter jclarke450
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
Lots of history buying Toyota’s and having your cruiser since new seems to help. But most people don’t get any.
I’m having the symptoms in my 2011 LX:
-low reservoir
-hairline crack at the square protrusion on top of the radiator
-small signs of coolant splatter near reservoir and under some of those upper hoses
-as best as I can see, no signs of leakage near the water pump
-as best as I can see, no signs of coolant under the intake, though I’m not sure how obvious it is without removing lots of parts.
Is there any way to make sure you get the updated design with the nice filleted corners, is there a part number specific to that upgraded part?
like this:
-low reservoir
-hairline crack at the square protrusion on top of the radiator
-small signs of coolant splatter near reservoir and under some of those upper hoses
-as best as I can see, no signs of leakage near the water pump
-as best as I can see, no signs of coolant under the intake, though I’m not sure how obvious it is without removing lots of parts.
Is there any way to make sure you get the updated design with the nice filleted corners, is there a part number specific to that upgraded part?
like this:
I would say your biggest worry is getting the parts. Have you checked availability?
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Not sure - I ordered this part from Olathe parts and got the new version "with filleted corners":
| 16400-50384 | Radiator |
2010-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser Radiator 16400-50384 | Toyota Parts Center
Save Big On This OEM Toyota Radiator, Part #16400-50384 for 2010-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser. Wholesale Prices, Fast Shipping. Order Online or Call 866-596-1970.
parts.olathetoyota.com
Edit -Deleted incorrect information, please see @gaijin post below for correct application chart.
Last edited:
gaijin
GOLD Star
Not sure - I ordered this part from Olathe parts and got the new version "with filleted corners":
16400-50384 Radiator
2010-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser Radiator 16400-50384 | Toyota Parts Center
Save Big On This OEM Toyota Radiator, Part #16400-50384 for 2010-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser. Wholesale Prices, Fast Shipping. Order Online or Call 866-596-1970.
It says it fits 17+ (but I am pretty sure people have reported that it fits all different model years - mine's a '13):
THIS PART FITS
Make Model Year Body & Trim Engine & Transmission Toyota Land Cruiser 2020 Base, Heritage Edition 5.7L V8 - Gas Toyota Land Cruiser 2019 Base 5.7L V8 - Gas Toyota Land Cruiser 2018 Base 5.7L V8 - Gas Toyota Land Cruiser 2017 Base 5.7L V8 - Gas
If you expand the list on your link, it actually shows this:
HTH
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Thanks, I didn't notice that option. Appreciate the help. I edited the original post to point to yours.
Not sure - I ordered this part from Olathe parts and got the new version "with filleted corners":
16400-50384 Radiator
2010-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser Radiator 16400-50384 | Toyota Parts Center
Save Big On This OEM Toyota Radiator, Part #16400-50384 for 2010-2021 Toyota Land Cruiser. Wholesale Prices, Fast Shipping. Order Online or Call 866-596-1970.
Edit -Deleted incorrect information, please see @gaijin post below for correct application chart.
thanks, that’s the part number I am indeed searching for. Did your radiator come with the foam strip that goes along the top or is that a separate part you have to order? I looked at the diagram in the link you posted and it seems to be part of the assembly according to the exploded diagram.
Am I the only one who feels Toyota did us a favor by adding this stress point to the mold just exactly where one could see it?
Having worked around BMWs and other makes, plastic cooling system parts failure is business as usual. In the 2000s, if you hadn't replaced your water pump, ect... on your inline 6 BMW by 70k you were on borrowed time. Still the case with many....
I just completed this repair on my ' 08 at 152k
Some very good information in this thread posted early on.
Especially: Leaving the right side rad support bracket in the vehicle and unbolting the rad from it.... makes this job very straight forward. This avoids having to disturb the oil cooler. Major time-saver!
Secondly, I would absolutely recommend having a fan support bracket on hand before starting this job.
I replaced radiator, serpentine belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner assembly, thermostat, and plenty of hoses/clamps while I was in there. The only bearing that showed any sign of deterioration was that fan support bracket.
I got to say, guys who are patching the radiator from the outside, this just won't/cant work from a physics perspective. Plastic begins to deteriorate from the inside out and it's going to let go.
I have done it with aluminum motorcycle radiators, but that is when the rad has been damaged externally. This plastic is crumbling from the inside out.
Consider seeing the crack ahead of time a gift. Something to put you on notice to start collecting parts or book an appointment.
It is a straight forward job, do it all at once. Maybe six hours in my home garage once I had parts on hand.
Having worked around BMWs and other makes, plastic cooling system parts failure is business as usual. In the 2000s, if you hadn't replaced your water pump, ect... on your inline 6 BMW by 70k you were on borrowed time. Still the case with many....
I just completed this repair on my ' 08 at 152k
Some very good information in this thread posted early on.
Especially: Leaving the right side rad support bracket in the vehicle and unbolting the rad from it.... makes this job very straight forward. This avoids having to disturb the oil cooler. Major time-saver!
Secondly, I would absolutely recommend having a fan support bracket on hand before starting this job.
I replaced radiator, serpentine belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner assembly, thermostat, and plenty of hoses/clamps while I was in there. The only bearing that showed any sign of deterioration was that fan support bracket.
I got to say, guys who are patching the radiator from the outside, this just won't/cant work from a physics perspective. Plastic begins to deteriorate from the inside out and it's going to let go.
I have done it with aluminum motorcycle radiators, but that is when the rad has been damaged externally. This plastic is crumbling from the inside out.
Consider seeing the crack ahead of time a gift. Something to put you on notice to start collecting parts or book an appointment.
It is a straight forward job, do it all at once. Maybe six hours in my home garage once I had parts on hand.
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bloc
SILVER Star
My fan support was getting tired at 150k as well. Around that mileage people should be checking theirs. I did have a very light occasional squeak even with a new belt and 40k water pump, and I believe the support bearing to be the cause.
My radiator started to crack at 50k miles and would most likely fail in the next couple of years. So I saw this as a project and do some recurrent training with skills I haven't used for a long while. I will have no trouble installing a new radiator some time latter but not now at 70k miles.
I put down 1 layer of 4oz fiber glass and 8 more layers of carbon fiber to round off the fail point and one more layer to cover all of that. The epoxy was then raised to 225 deg f for a few hours for tempering and and then 180 for a while longer, blah blah blah, enough details.
The radiator may fail some were else at any time, but I had fun.
I put down 1 layer of 4oz fiber glass and 8 more layers of carbon fiber to round off the fail point and one more layer to cover all of that. The epoxy was then raised to 225 deg f for a few hours for tempering and and then 180 for a while longer, blah blah blah, enough details.
The radiator may fail some were else at any time, but I had fun.
@Pacer do you have a part number handy for that fan support bracket? I haven’t torn into my truck yet so I’m not visualizing the part and can’t find it at the Toyota parts site. Thanks!
I did some more poking around today and it looks like there is seepage around the water pump. So perhaps my leak is from the water pump but I already see the crack on the radiator so I’m gonna replace all of it.
the instructions refer to a Toyota spanner wrench to hold the water pump pulley so that you can unbolt it. Is this a standard pulley spanner that I can rent at AutoZone?
I did some more poking around today and it looks like there is seepage around the water pump. So perhaps my leak is from the water pump but I already see the crack on the radiator so I’m gonna replace all of it.
the instructions refer to a Toyota spanner wrench to hold the water pump pulley so that you can unbolt it. Is this a standard pulley spanner that I can rent at AutoZone?
Toyota P/N 16380-0S010.
That looks really nicely done. How did you remove the raised part, did you just file it away?
Nicely done, hope it works for you.
You can get the identical Aisin part from Rock Auto for considerably less money. Same with the water pump. They're the OEM parts. You won't need the spanner wrench for the water pump pulley. Loosen the bolts before the belt is off and tighten after belt is back on.
bloc
SILVER Star
And if the pulley slips and spins (mine usually do), just use a large screwdriver or pry bar between the fan stub and one of the nut heads to hold back. Note that you should NOT use this method if the nut you are prying on has been unthreaded.. that could bend/break the stud. only if it is flush with the pulley hub.
No, the raised portion is hollow. I cut heavy pieces of CF in a U shape each one smaller than the last to gradually fill the void. I did not use any peel sheets to make it smooth because is is just a radiator and the tempering process would have altered that material.
Don't tell any one, but I did sand off the corner with a power sander when I was prepping the surface.
Gerald, at Polymer Composites, The Epoxy Experts is the guy to talk to about specialized applications with epoxy. He is the chemist who designed this high temp MAX HTE. Watch a couple of his you tube videos, the back ground music great.
I mentioned it earlier, but plastic welding worked well on mine, but I replaced it anyway before a long trip (bought the radiator as preventative maintenance, and decided to play with the welder (also have a butane welder in car for emergencies. Didn't have the full crack through (thankfully no mess in engine bay) but drilled and used polymide 6/6 plastic zip ties (glass infused like radiator). I used the hf plastic welding kit. I made sure that the old and new material mixed. Should have taken pics.
I had long-term success with this method on my old mazda/ford pickup and would trust more than any epoxy. My 16 looks to have the radiator, so may go through this again and will document next time (assuming it happens after the platinum warranty the PO transferred to me is up)...
I had long-term success with this method on my old mazda/ford pickup and would trust more than any epoxy. My 16 looks to have the radiator, so may go through this again and will document next time (assuming it happens after the platinum warranty the PO transferred to me is up)...
