2006 LX470 Maintenance/Build thread (3 Viewers)

[snowglobe]

I’d like to maintain this myself and will look at doing so after @2001LC does this round, but I’m happy to have him do it as he’s very meticulous and I have two other vehicles with a lot of work waiting for me, an LX450 and a 928. I can live with those out of commission for extended times but the LX470 cant be down for long.

@2001LC mentioned there were issues with how the last timing belt job was done. Details forthcoming.

 

[2001LC]

Issues with how last timing belt job, found:

1) Cam sensor wire housing block chip busted. This is all to common. They can take some time to get released. So to often shops just break off. That fine. But they then need to replace and secure.

2) Crank sensor & oil sending unit wire housing, run wrong. This too is all to common. The wire housing needs run between fan bracket & compressor, while installing fan bracket. The wires also should be in retained on timing belt cover fasteners.

The above two are problematic. They wire sheathing and wires may rub up against serpentine belt. One or more wires, may then be cut by moving belt. This can can disable the engine.

3) Water pipe securing nut missing off timing belt cover stud.

4) Like (did not check) the two very small plastic covers missing. These go on before fan bracket.

5) Contaminate found in coolant under radiator cap. Black spec look like FIPG. Likely wrong FIPG used on water inlet to water pump seal area. Subsequent removal of water inlet, revealed FIPG poorly applied.

6) Water inlet cap grossly over torqued. Must have be a plumber working on it!

7) Water inlet bolts grossly over torqued. Non OEM thermostat found and replaced with OEM.

8) Water inlet to water bypass joint O-ring leak. Likely improper install procedure, possibly reused old O-ring and did not prep area.

9) Based on these observation. It's very like no bolt where torqued during timing belt job. Likely they're all over torqued.

Radiator cap has contaminates (black specs) on it.

Also found under rad cap.

Water inlet leak at O-ring

 

[2001LC]

Serpentine belt not 100 series, is/was longer.

New OEM

Non OEM thermostat of your left.

Air filter seal curled (not keeping dust out) See this all the time.

Battery condition (this picture was texted me). I was remote diagnosing at the time.

 

[2001LC]

Backing up a little. My first contact regrading this 06LX with Jim, was due to battery issue. Battery and positive clamp needed replacing. Not uncommon with many years of acid build up on battery. This issue began long before Jim purchased the vehicle. Which he corrected after purchase. By cleaning with baking soda (neutralizing acid) and water, than replacing positive clamp and battery.

Second contact and first service in my shop, was fuel pump replacement. We decided on R&R fuel pump based on remote (phone) diagnostic. Before posting picture on fuel pump R&R. I'd like to talk about something interesting!

I find interest, is what was an apparently a long term battery issue with post & clamp oxidation and acid build up That and the fuel pump failure. I've seen this a few times now. The 06-07 have a weak fuel pump, as it is. I replace more of these than the older (98-05) fuel pumps.

IMHO. What happens is; as the fuel pump gets hot, the resistance builds up. It seems they than do not produce enough fuel flow and pressure in their low speed mode. What's interesting here. Is the that oxidation build up on battery post and clamps, increase resistance. Then alternator can't deliver a full charge to battery. Nor can electrical system receive full volts/AMP due to resistance.

Batteries not getting fully charged, sulfate (Battery sulfation is the process of lead sulfate crystals building up on a battery cell). The electric motors throughout the vehicle, now run on reduced volts/AMP. When hot, heat than increases "resistance" in wiring to and in motors. So we see most fuel pump failures, on hot days and after fuel pump runs in high speed. More so in a rigs that have had long term battery oxidation issues.

Replacing fuel pump and fuel filter, took care of issue. But even without battery issues. It may be best as a PM, to replace 06-07 fuel pumps.

Below IS NOT pictures of this 06LX. It's my 07LX. The battery in my 07, had so much built-up of acid on the post & cables. It took pounds of baking soda and days to neutralize. So much, that the concert on my driveway, where I did most neutralizing is strained now. I had to replace it's fuel pump also. Additionally the acid worked its way into the wire block housing for the main battery wires.

Again, these are pictures from one of my 07. I did not clean Jim's wiring housing, that he can do if needed.

 

[2001LC]

Fuel pump & fuel filter. First step is disconnect fuel power electric wire block under RR door held on frame rial. Once disconnected crank engine to relive fuel pressure.

Than remove 2nd row bench seat and pull up carpet and get fuel pump out.

I always like replacing the seal at top of tank for fuel pump assembly, when removed.

 

[2001LC]

After fuel pump replacement, I did a short test drive and monitored ECT & fuel trims. It was then, I saw temp jumping to 200F. So I recommended a coolant system service and tune up. Subsequently Jim brought back in and the above posted picture of stuff found from previous timing belt came from this service.

I started with power washing the radiator fins. I also end with re-cleaning radiator. In all spent ~3 hour just washing the 3 radiators. I find ever rig comes in my shop, needs this cleaning.

Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert

I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...

forum.ih8mud.com

I also noted fuel trims indicate engine running lean. Additionally a cold start tick, like exhaust leak This was factory spark plugs walking out.

Note the plugs and coils with browning. Those, combustion gases were blowing out passed the threads of the loose plugs.
I replaced the plugs and coil seal, springs and boots.

Air filter, some vacuum line, throttle body cleaning, MAF cleaning, battery post CLN & Grease, drive belt and pulleys and bearings, etc.. tuneup...

It was than I found a coolant leak at water inlet to water bypass from improper install IMHO.
I had to recondition not just clean where large O-rings fits.

 

[2001LC]

New 1282B, soaped-up O-ring and torqued to 13ft-lbf in less than 4 minutes.

Found Drive belt was not an OEM 100 series belt. It was longer. Replaced it with OEM, as noted above.

Now ECT (engine coolant temp) running 187-190. OAT was cooler but still I feel a great improvement. Need to check again with OAT in 90's F.

Engine run very nice now. Better idle than most I've seen. Even those with less than 60k, I've tuned. I'd be proud to own this very clean rig.

Move on to brake flush and tried something a little different. I cleaned the brake control wires at bottom of ABS unit with plastic safe Electronic cleaner and pack dielectric grease. This is to help reduce corrosion and maintain spec resistance to brake booster motor.

Minor corrosion, really not bad at all.

Few other tied up issues like damage bolts. I used my threads chaser and new bolts here an other spots.

 

[2001LC]

Even after Jim cleaned up battery cables & post with baking soda. I did find a little spot on negative post cable. I keep hitting with baking soda and water for 5 hours or more. Used near a pound, on just this tiny spot. It can still use more cleaning, but sun went down.
See the blue-ing in wire.

Just keep adding baking soda wet. Let soak and wash. Repeat, repeat, repeat...

We keep washing with baking soda solution, until no more blue appears.

Here's the new positive post clamp Jim installed. Sweet!

Keeping battery, clamp and wires in great shape is important and to often overlook.

 

[2001LC]

Here list of work done, additional recommendations and observation some serviced

10/27/20		1	Power steering service & flush.
10/27/20		1.5	M1 ATF PS
10/26/20		1	Reservoir CLN
10/26/20		1	Return hose 03-07
10/26/20		1	Idle up control vacuum hoses 06-07	17030-50150 06-07
10/26/20			Drive belt & pulleys R&R
10/26/20		1	Drive belt R&R
10/26/20		1	Idler OEM, R&R (27 ft.-lbf)
10/26/20		1	Tensioner, Bearing only 27 ft.-lbf
10/28/20			Coolant Service
10/24/20		1	Radiator Cleaning fins, all 3
10/26/20		1	Coolant flush (block 9 ft.-lbf)
10/27/20		2	Heater Tees 2
10/27/20		1	Hose #1 Water bypass & clamps	Plus cust clamps
10/26/20		1	Thermostat
10/26/20		1	Thermostat Gasket 13ft-lbf
10/26/20		1	Radiator Cap
10/27/20		4	Coolant
10/26/20		1	Water inlet R&I	Leak at O-ring
10/26/20		1	O-ring water Inlet/Bypass joint	Bypass has some minor pitting
10/26/20		1	1282B FIPG
10/26/20		1	Minor tune
10/27/20		1	Throttle body CLN	0.3
10/26/20		1	MAF sensor CLN	0.1
10/26/20		1	Battery post CLN & Grease	0.1
10/26/20		1	PCV hose PS OEM 02.00-07	12262-50080 PS 00-07
10/26/20		1	PCV hose DS OEM 06-07	12261-50070 DS 05-
10/26/20		1	Air filter	0.1
10/26/20		8	Spark plugs (I use 18ft-lbf denso max. OEM 13 ft.)	1
10/26/20		8	Denso coil kits (bools & seals) (66 in-lbf)	1
10/26/20		1	Head cover PS & DS bolt re torque (53 in-lbf)	1
10/26/20		1	Oil & Filter
10/26/20		1	Oil drain, no tool plug	Install no tool drain plug
10/26/20		7	Oil	M1 5W-30
10/26/20		1	Filter	M1 209 / OEM
10/27/20		1	Propeller shaft & spider lube
10/27/20		0.5	Grease MI tube
10/27/20		1	Brake masker, Control wire clean & Dielectic	Boot #1
10/27/20		1	Brake system flush
10/27/20		8	OEM Toyota brake fluid 12oz
10/27/20		2	Bleeder caps OEM 8ft-lbf	Rears only, frts okay
10/27/20		0.1	Brake cleaner & penetrating oil
10/27/20		1	AHC Flush 6.9+/-0.5 MPa Front. 5.6-6.7 MPa Rear. F19.75 R20.50". FRT adj Slide center 5.5mm from bottom. Turnbuckles 32-35 mm spread.	Start: F6.7, R6.2, 10.5/ End:F6.9Mpa, R6.2Mpa, 10.5Mpa
10/27/20		3	AHC fluid 3qt	OEM
10/27/20		5	Bleeder cap (Globe73in-lbf, Accumulator 61in-lbf))
10/27/20		1	Torsion bar Adjust	FL 19 1/4 2CW, FR 19 1/4 1/4CCW, RL 19 3/4, RR 19 3/4.
10/23/20		1	Inspect, Pull shielding, CLN engine, undercarriage
10/28/20		2	Bolts undershield	Restore RH FRT & LH #1 to #2 threads
10/27/20		1	Re-attach rev mirror
10/26/20		0.5	Washer fluid
			Additional	recommendations
			Recommendations:
10/27/20		Coil springs rear weak. Rear AHC pressure at ~6.2.Mpa. Whereas that is not bad and within range. l would like to see closer to 5.6Mpa.The lower the pressure the less AHC need to carry. One way to reduce pressure is to lower the rear, putting more weight on rear coils springs. Thus reducing load on AHC (reduces pressure). This has already been done prior to this service call. I found the rear is sitting 3/4" low. This was likely accomplish by someone adjusting the rear AHC height sensor. The front is also low by 1/2". Again likely the front height adjustors moved. So the vehicle is now sitting with only 1/2" rake. 1/2" is okay, but 3/4" is the goal. Rake or lower front than rear, help vehicle track straight while driving. HWY is when most noticeable, as streeing wonders. Reducing load on AHC, saves for when needed for loaded vehicle damping, and adds years to globes.	Replace coils spring, and add 30mm spacers. W/O spacer, if would like to keep current lowered profile?
9/22/20			Re clamp FDS boots inner small RH. Sung LH & RH out large	Best done during wheel bearing service
10/28/20			Wheel bearing service	Due every 30K miles.
10/28/20			Lubes & Oils, Best all done as base line. Transmission included. Transmission is low if never set, SEE TSB.	PM
10/26/24			Coolant contaminate, black material on bottom of cap	BG flush when R&R water pump in 2 yrs. 2022 when T-belt due
10/26/20			Coolant fan shroud lower hose mount busted	Next time shroud out restore
10/26/20			Time belt cover, missing wire block mount bracket	Install
10/26/20			Wires routed wrong, to Cam sensor & oil sending unit	Reroute next T-belt service or sooner
10/27/20			Brake fluid was dirty (green and dark), Flushed with Toyota Fluid	Watch color of fluid in brake reservoir. We want to know how long it takes to drank and how much it darkens.
9/22/20			Tele steering column Inop	Repair
9/22/20			Window master switch. RR window broken but works	R&R
9/22/20			Glove box Air bag sensor housing busted	R&R
			Hood struts shot	R&R
9/22/20			Notes
9/22/20		10/27/20	Brakes master pedal pumps / motor run time	28 pumps/ 33.79 sec
9/22/20			Brake pads frt mm, rear mm
9/22/20		10/28/20	Brake control wire	corroded. CLN w/spray & coated w/Dielectic
9/22/20		10/28/20	Fluid condition	DARK. CLR after flusk @ 130K
9/22/20			Gas cap area	CLN
9/22/20		10/1/20	ECT / OAT	192-199F w/OAT 79 IAT ~120F. After Coolant service & tune 187F-190 OAT 50F IAT ~60F
9/22/20			LT FT	9-2020 BK1 0-6.2, BK2 1.6-6.2. 10/2020 ------
9/22/20			ST FT
10/26/20			A.I. fan shuts DN nicely
10/26/20			AHC res 10+ graduations
9/22/20		Resolved	Observation	Condition
10/26/20		10/26/20	Coolant leak water intel O-ring	R&R O-ring
10/26/20		10/26/20	Coolant water cap & inlet nuts & bolts found very over torqued.	Recondition nut threads. They are stretched.
10/26/20		10/26/20	Serp belt longer than OEM	R&R
9/22/20		10/24/20	Acid all over engine bay front & LH side	Clean engine bay using lots of baking soda
9/22/20		10/26/20	Air filter seal damage	Set straight, but needs replacing.
9/22/20		10/26/20	Coolant service	Full w/rad CLN & tees
9/22/20		10/27/20	Brake flush	Fluid dark. Need to see if darkens soon after flush
9/22/20		10/27/20	OF&L	Maintenance light on.
9/22/20			Mirror rear view center, loose.
9/22/20		10/26/20	Tune w/SP & Coil boots if not done..	Includes head cover retorque and vacuum lines. Found plugs to be factory and 3 walking-out, all loose.
9/22/20		10/27/20	Power steering service	Includes CLN reservoir
9/22/20		10/27/20	Steering rack LH output boot wet. Cleaned, may be spillage.	Watch, 10/27/20 looks dry, keep eye on
9/22/20		10/27/20	Shock RF weep. Very minor	Watch, 10/27/20 looks dry, keep eye on

 

[2001LC]

Add aftermarket oil drain plug. First I installed or work with. Dang if I did lose about a qt on my garage floor. Though I had it closed DUH...

Look close and you can see some grease coming from FDS CV boots. Likely just needs re-clamp. Want to watch for awhile, see how much grease it is losing. Based on grease slung around, I say not much lose. But I've seen where it was steam cleaned, before I inspected by PO, so couldn't read the grease slung.

Front stabilizer systems looks okay.

 

[2001LC]

All in all this is a very nice Rig, I'd be proud to own. As with all 100 series. just needed and needs some TLC.

 

[LRscorned]

All in all this is a very nice Rig, I'd be proud to own. As with all 100 series. just needed and needs some TLC.

Wow. I love reading your threads. You are mind-bogglingly thorough. We bought our 06LX from Groove this summer. We took it to ToyDoctor for a PPI and they noticed the muffler needed to be replaced. I was surprised Groove missed it (or failed to address it), but they replaced it per warranty.
I’m hesitant on taking it back to Groove or ToyDoctor (I have complete service records with all done at the two Lexus dealers, Groove or ToyDoctor for past 14 years) for any future service with you around the corner, though your thoroughness has me assuming your service fees would be in the tens of thousands of dollars!! How does one contract with you and how much does you charge??

PS. I have no current service needs, though I should probably replace the heater Ts sooner rather than later as we’re at 206k.

 

[2001LC]

Wow. I love reading your threads. You are mind-bogglingly thorough. We bought our 06LX from Groove this summer. We took it to ToyDoctor for a PPI and they noticed the muffler needed to be replaced. I was surprised Groove missed it (or failed to address it), but they replaced it per warranty.
I’m hesitant on taking it back to Groove or ToyDoctor (I have complete service records with all done at the two Lexus dealers, Groove or ToyDoctor for past 14 years) for any future service with you around the corner, though your thoroughness has me assuming your service fees would be in the tens of thousands of dollars!! How does one contract with you and how much does you charge??

PS. I have no current service needs, though I should probably replace the heater Ts sooner rather than later as we’re at 206k.

That was great they replaced muffler, parts are near $800 alone. I assume you bought extended wrty from them. PM sent to you, for contact info.

 

[LRscorned]

That was great they replaced muffler, parts are near $800 alone. I assume you bought extended wrty from them. PM sent to you, for contact info.

It actually came with a 2-month dealer warranty. Also replaced power steering pump and hoses with that warranty!

 

[snowglobe]

@2001LC , Thank You for the extensive write up! Holy Smokes! And of course thank you for the service. Folks, if you want a quality obsessed and honest mechanic near Denver, get in line!

Since the oil was dark when @2001LC changed it, I bought some more Mobil 1 5w30 and will do another change later today to help flush out the remainder of the older oil from the system.

The AHC seems a lot smoother, it had some bounce before. Now it’s like floating on a cloud when driving down the highway.