2006 LX-470 Idle Adjustment

[MUDZLLA]

Hey guys/gals/LGBTQers...
Anyone know how to adjust the idle on the 2UZ-FE with VVT? My engine races to around 1800 on start-up and settles down to 1050 when warm? Also seems to jump around a bit. Spec calls for around 700. New to this model so not sure if I need to patch into the computer or there's an adjustment screw somewhere. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Try cleaning the throttle body and MAF, disconnect the batt, and let the ECU relearn.

 

[ramangain]

Also double check the idle speed with an appropriate OBD2 sensor and reader. If the tach has EVER been touched, the internal spring can move from its carefully coiled position and read incorrectly. Don't ask how I know this ....

 

[OEMGUY0720]

The 2uzfe unlike other inline4 or v6 toyota engines have an idle-up actuator. The ecu controls the idle on the 2uz based on a few factors like the throttle body, maf, coil and sais (if applicable) electrical signals. Maintain these and you should be able to bring it back to factory 750-800rpm at optimal engine temps with or without aircon turned on.

Ps, add vacuum hoses to things to check all are in good working order.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Try cleaning the throttle body and MAF, disconnect the batt, and let the ECU relearn.

Will do! Thanks.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Also double check the idle speed with an appropriate OBD2 sensor and reader. If the tach has EVER been touched, the internal spring can move from its carefully coiled position and read incorrectly. Don't ask how I know this ....

How do y--- ohh right. Well thx but I can hear it scream at start up so pretty sure it's not a wonky tach, but thx good to know.

 

[MUDZLLA]

The 2uzfe unlike other inline4 or v6 toyota engines have an idle-up actuator. The ecu controls the idle on the 2uz based on a few factors like the throttle body, maf, coil and sais (if applicable) electrical signals. Maintain these and you should be able to bring it back to factory 750-800rpm at optimal engine temps with or without aircon turned on.

Ps, add vacuum hoses to things to check all are in good working order.

Yeah I was checking vac hoses and noticed yellow paint on the idle up vacuum switch. It may have been replaced. I can pull one off my 98 I just installed and see if it helps. It's such a simple switch - high pressure and it opens the vacuum switch. Hard to see how it can get stuck open sitting in PS fluid all day. Usually the little plastic vac tube connections just break off. But definately need to follow all the vac tubes. Any good way of testing for leaks besides lighting a match beside it?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Yeah I was checking vac hoses and noticed yellow paint on the idle up vacuum switch. It may have been replaced. I can pull one off my 98 I just installed and see if it helps. It's such a simple switch - high pressure and it opens the vacuum switch. Hard to see how it can get stuck open sitting in PS fluid all day. Usually the little plastic vac tube connections just break off. But definately need to follow all the vac tubes. Any good way of testing for leaks besides lighting a match beside it?

I think the best way is to physical inspect it as cracks as small as a hairline can affect it and can barely be noticeable on idle pressure/rpm. One thing I noticed when I overhauled my 2uz intake ports, intake manifold assembly w/ new oe gaskets, throttle body assembly and oe gasket, maf and all vacuum lines was the idle became unbelievably fine smooth as silk. Pictures below of what I cleaned or decarbonized.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Wow nice! How did you decarbonize the intake port?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Wow nice! How did you decarbonize the intake port?

I just used a carb cleaner. 2 cans of it on the intake manifold assembly and another 2 cans for all 8 intake ports (most of that carbon was fossilized as hard af).

 

[hortandr]

Hey guys/gals/LGBTQers...
Anyone know how to adjust the idle on the 2UZ-FE with VVT? My engine races to around 1800 on start-up and settles down to 1050 when warm? Also seems to jump around a bit. Spec calls for around 700. New to this model so not sure if I need to patch into the computer or there's an adjustment screw somewhere. Any help would be appreciated.

MUDZLLA!!!!​

I am having this exact issue!!
Were you able to resolve this?? If so what did you do?
I cleaned MAF yesterday. It did not look dirty at all. I even replaced 7/8 spark plugs last weekend, back right ignition coil was very difficult so I left it based on the other plugs that came out looking clean enough. I start up boom truck is at 1600-1800 RPM let her warm up for a few minutes and it still is high, always above 1000 RPM until I drive for a while.

 

[MUDZLLA]

MUDZLLA!!!!​

I am having this exact issue!!
Were you able to resolve this?? If so what did you do?
I cleaned MAF yesterday. It did not look dirty at all. I even replaced 7/8 spark plugs last weekend, back right ignition coil was very difficult so I left it based on the other plugs that came out looking clean enough. I start up boom truck is at 1600-1800 RPM let her warm up for a few minutes and it still is high, always above 1000 RPM until I drive for a while.

Replaced the idle up switch IIRC. Can't remember exactly because I traded it. I think I there may have been a vacuum hose leaking or not connected as well. Good luck with it.

 

[Mike NXP]

MUDZLLA!!!!​

I am having this exact issue!!
Were you able to resolve this?? If so what did you do?
I cleaned MAF yesterday. It did not look dirty at all. I even replaced 7/8 spark plugs last weekend, back right ignition coil was very difficult so I left it based on the other plugs that came out looking clean enough. I start up boom truck is at 1600-1800 RPM let her warm up for a few minutes and it still is high, always above 1000 RPM until I drive for a while.

- Did you disconnect and let the battery sit for 20+ min then try several start cycles? Mine took a bit after MAF cleaning to calm down
- Did you remove the boot from throttle body and clean / inspect the butterfly
- Air filter clean
- Spark plugs aren't affecting your idle

- Do you have any check engine lights or other symptoms? If your symptom is consistent, high idle then it calms down once the engine is warm, maybe you've got something else going on, like bad temp sensor or something that I'm not smart enough to take guesses at. I was going to say check PCV valve and hoses but since it eventually calms down once warmed up I don't think a vacuum leak or something along those lines is the culprit

- When did the high idle issue start, right after your MAF cleaning?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

One common symptom of high idling (compensating to increase RPM) is fuel delivery. Check/service your fuel lines, fuel filter, fuel pump.
In the engine bay area, check/service injectors. Engine idling up is set by the ECM which is related to its operating temp as sensed by up/downstream O2 sensors. Engine idling up means its running rich (more fuel to air ratio). Once you have ruled these out, perform a vacuum leak test (lots of options in Amazon) to identify which hose has failed, its often hiding in plain sight and the leak test will reduce the guessing game.

 

[2001LC]

One common issue after serving engine, where air pipe was removed. Is not attaching idle up or FPR vacuum line(s) back onto air pipe. Most times but not always, I see CEL if idle up vacuum line off.

If battery negative post disconnect for 20 minutes. To clean MAF, as it should have been. It take 3 warm up cool down cycles or less. Before EMC relearns. So we often will see, high RPM, until it does.

 

[2001LC]

MUDZLLA!!!!​

I am having this exact issue!!
Were you able to resolve this?? If so what did you do?
I cleaned MAF yesterday. It did not look dirty at all. I even replaced 7/8 spark plugs last weekend, back right ignition coil was very difficult so I left it based on the other plugs that came out looking clean enough. I start up boom truck is at 1600-1800 RPM let her warm up for a few minutes and it still is high, always above 1000 RPM until I drive for a while.

BTW: If by the "right" coil (COP: coil on plug) "hard to remove". I assume you mean coil for cylinder #7 which is BK1 (left, AKA driver side) rear coil. We just need turn coil about 90 degrees, to clear AC pipe. Sometimes, if rig has been in an accident. The frame or body shift. We then may need to press on the AC pipe that block #7 coil, to move out the way.

BK2 rear spark plug (#8), some have issue with. But the COP is easy. Spark plug easy with a proper spark plug wrench and a universal Or just use the spark plug wrench in spark tire tool kit.
Tools and procedure, have been mentioned here:

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[baltistyle]

As an owner of an 06 and previously a 00, there is a definite roar to the engine at start with sais on the vvti 06. The idle will stay higher until the cats are warm. If you can log, is the idle staying higher until past the time the cats are warm? For me, the colder the weather, the longer this may take. Idle should return to normal once warm.