2006 LC seems gutless (1 Viewer)

[farright]

I just bought a 2006 Cruiser with 165k miles. Good service records and a very clean truck. I only test drove it a few miles, and i noticed no real issued.

It was a bit of an impulse purchase. I sold my triple locked 80 a few months ago and have regretted it.

ANYWAY on the home i really started to notice that there seems to be a serious lack of power. I have have a 2003 Tundra with the 4.7 to compare it to, but there is alot of difference.

The LC does have a 2" lift, bumpers and 33" tires but it seems worse than what that would slow down.

Any ideas of where to begin looking? Im somewhat wondering if its the transmission.

 

[YotaWagon]

Your new land cruiser is likely 1,000 lbs heavier than the Tundra.

 

[FxFormat]

Much heavier vehicle, full time AWD, bigger tires, and lift all adds up to what you feel now. Check for brake drag if you feel like someone is not spinning freely.

 

[2001LC]

Did you happen the monitor your ECT & LTFT (engine coolant temp & long term fuel trims). They can be revealing!
Coming from and 80 series and saying that, somethings wrong. The 06 VVT is a peppy engine. They have excellent passing ability. On colorado mountain passes they get up and go. Even going up Berthoud pass, they have power to spare. The heavy build may slow a bit, so down shift. But likely you need a good tune. I'd start with logging ECT, LTFT and CAT temps. Then do good tune up, w/coolant system service and transmission flush.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Your 06 should feel more powerful than the older Tundra. I had an 05 tundra and 99 LC at the same time and power was very similar. The older Tundra vs newer cruiser should push the power balance to the cruiser actually.

If apples to apples you're feeling the LC is slower, something is up.

Pull the battery connection, pump the brakes, reinstall battery connection to reset ecu. Might be in limp mode for some reason. Go drive and check for codes. Run it hard to try to push a code through.

Start with the easy stuff like cleaning MAF sensor, air filter to verify good airflow and metering.

Then electric: Check plugs for gapping/cleanliness and look at coil packs boots etc for dryness and cracking.

Then fuel: Could be bad gas so swap the fuel. could be dirty injectors so run some injector cleaner. Then go to fuel pressure so clogged fuel filter, etc.

Code should throw if O2 sensor or clogged cats, but could be an option. Expensive so look into later. Or find a local 4x4 club and see if someone has something you can test swap on.

Could be fuel pump but don't just replace it until ruling out all other things. Fuel delivery sounds ok for now so more likely a restriction.

 

[farright]

Did you happen the monitor your ECT & LTFT (engine coolant temp & long term fuel trims). They can be revealing!
Coming from and 80 series and saying that, somethings wrong. The 06 VVT is a peppy engine. They have excellent passing ability. On colorado mountain passes they get up and go. Even going up Berthoud pass, they have power to spare. The heavy build may slow a bit, so down shift. But likely you need a good tune. I'd start with logging ECT, LTFT and CAT temps. Then do good tune up, w/coolant system service and transmission flush.

I havent checked that, but i do have a bluetooth scanner. It might need a tune up. The power seems to be missing on the low end.

 

[farright]

Your 06 should feel more powerful than the older Tundra. I had an 05 tundra and 99 LC at the same time and power was very similar. The older Tundra vs newer cruiser should push the power balance to the cruiser actually.

If apples to apples you're feeling the LC is slower, something is up.

Pull the battery connection, pump the brakes, reinstall battery connection to reset ecu. Might be in limp mode for some reason. Go drive and check for codes. Run it hard to try to push a code through.

Start with the easy stuff like cleaning MAF sensor, air filter to verify good airflow and metering.

Then electric: Check plugs for gapping/cleanliness and look at coil packs boots etc for dryness and cracking.

Then fuel: Could be bad gas so swap the fuel. could be dirty injectors so run some injector cleaner. Then go to fuel pressure so clogged fuel filter, etc.

Code should throw if O2 sensor or clogged cats, but could be an option. Expensive so look into later. Or find a local 4x4 club and see if someone has something you can test swap on.

Could be fuel pump but don't just replace it until ruling out all other things. Fuel delivery sounds ok for now so more likely a restriction.

Thanks for the suggestions. It actually is throwing a o2 code. but has an aftermarket borla exhaust system. Was told that was the reason why...

 

[AlpineAccess]

Thanks for the suggestions. It actually is throwing a o2 code. but has an aftermarket borla exhaust system. Was told that was the reason why...

There you go , I'd start there by making sure you have working 02's.

The borla system is probably just a cat back, so you need to verify if you're have cats. If you do, and they've disconnected 02 sensors or something weird, it's not getting accurate sensor data so its running a base tune or is in safe mode.

 

[ogsuv]

You could check to see if there is slack in the throttle cable at the throttle body. Adjustment is easy and a quicker downshift will make it at least sound like you are going faster....

 

[trdcorolla]

You could check to see if there is slack in the throttle cable at the throttle body. Adjustment is easy and a quicker downshift will make it at least sound like you are going faster....

Only 98-02's have throttle cables.

 

[ogsuv]

Then he could buy a 98-02?

disregard my previous post please

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the suggestions. It actually is throwing a o2 code. but has an aftermarket borla exhaust system. Was told that was the reason why...

Seems I looked at one recently, remotely. They said code from exhaust, IIRC. It had aftermarket CAT's and borla muffler. I did not feel the exhaust was primary issue. That whomever replaced CATs, did not correct upstream issue. I passed on the Deal, based on price and what I felt it would take to restore..

Sorry, I look so many and work on so many and advise on so many 100 series. Details of this one is foggy. I spent maybe 1-2 hours remotely inspecting. I've already dump my notes and forgotten it's detail. But likely it is the one you bought. PM with your phone #, and we can talk if you like.

 

[farright]

Attached are pictures of the trouble codes, long term fuel trims (have no idea what these mean) and the horrendous gas mileage.

i have to say i might have done a rushed job checking it out.


@2001LC was it a black one in AR?

 

[2001LC]

Yeah, I think is was back 06LC in AR.

CAT Codes I expected. They can be cleared. Then you check codes, comes up all clear. Until after some HWY speeds. Then the PO420 & 430 come back. Knock sensor codes I did not expect.

 

[jerryb]

knock sensor codes are what you get after a long term 420 and 430. clear them and they may or may not come back, in the case of no cats, or not so great aftermarket cats they will or could come back eventually. It's in safe mode because of that 333. Erasing that will take you out of safe mode. iF you erase the 420 and 30 it will be some time before the 333 comes back. The 420 and 430 have to come first. Then after a couple additional cycles of 40+mph plus 2500RPM it will come back, unless it's a momentary short term and if the 420 and 30 remain pending or not.
not a huge deal. post a pic of your non stock, or stock, or non existent cat pipes, and whether you have the rear o2 sensors installed or not.

 

[ScubaJon]

Did you check if the floor mats are blocking the accelerator pedal from going all the way down.


After moving the floor mats I noticed improved acceleration.

 

[Mike NXP]

Pedal to the floor and hammer down

 

[farright]

Pictures of the exhaust, and tickets i have for work.
When i clear the codes with my scanner they almost instantly pop back.

 

[farright]

More tickets.

 

[AlpineAccess]

Can you see / take pictures of the O2 sensors?

I can see what looks like a port behind the driveshaft but can't tell if anything is in it.