2006 Black LC baseline and build (1 Viewer)

[pbreisch]

I didn't have to travel far, but I was prepared to. Most of my searches were in the southwest, like phoenix and dallas. A few nice ones had popped up on CL and Autotrader but I was always a bit too slow to act. This one showed up local, and even though it's carfax says it spent it's life in Indiana, it is still mostly clean of rust and corrosion. There is some, but nothing that gets me too worried. We will see if I eat those words when I dig deeper. I already found the two busted bolts for the skid plate, but those are on the leading edge of the car and see the most abuse.

 

[Mario Garcia]

Stoked! I'm looking for a 2006 myself. Congratulations on your purchase. Did you have to travel far for it?

CA Crusin, have you checked this one out. I'd look into it myself, but I picked up and '06 last year.

2007 Toyota Land Cruiser AWD, with Warranty!

The car looks very clean but the dealer does not list a VIN # or the mileage (fishy). Ask for the VIN and check maintenance records on the Toyota Owners site. My 2006 had 158K miles (paid 18k) when I bought her and all maintenance records were on this site and were done by the dealer. The truck runs like new! Current odo reading 164876. It's a weekend car.

Toyota Owners Official Web Site

 

[pbreisch]

Rear diff fluid change done with mobil1 75-90. I replaced the bolts with Allen head fasteners from @beno . Ran out of time today but will hopefully do transfer case and front diff tomorrow.

I also tried to balance my front AHC t-bars but I didn't have a big enough (or any, really) breaker bar. Will have to wait till I am at my dads shop to do that one.

 

[PADDO]

I also tried to balance my front AHC t-bars but I didn't have a big enough (or any, really) breaker bar. Will have to wait till I am at my dads shop to do that one.

Did you try without the breaker? My tightest TB bolt turns at about 65 ft lbs, if yours haven't been touched in a while give them a hit with a penetrating oil in advance and raise the vehicle to H to take some of the loading off before adjusting. Then drop it back to L for the L to N pressure checks.

 

[pbreisch]

Did you try without the breaker? My tightest TB bolt turns at about 65 ft lbs, if yours haven't been touched in a while give them a hit with a penetrating oil in advance and raise the vehicle to H to take some of the loading off before adjusting. Then drop it back to L for the L to N pressure checks.

I didn't have a breaker, just a 12-16" long 1/2" socket wrench. I will try lifting it up to High next time I am under the truck. And I soaked them with PB oil before trying last time. I will soak them again next time.

Last night I dropped the middle plastic skid plate and finished the oil changes in the transfer case and front diff. It was easy peasy, but I am a slow worker so it took me about 2 hours. With a nice shop setup I can see how it would be a 30 minute job.

While under the truck I noticed the zerk's on the driveshaft. What is the common thought on oiling procedure? I have read conflicting reports, some say just a dab'll do ya and others say pump till clean grease comes out.

I also received my heater T's and new hoses so I will try to get that done tonight or tomorrow. The list is getting shorter.

 

[pbreisch]

Lubed the driveshaft and joints. Used lithium in the joints and did maybe 10 pumps each, just until the grease started to push out the joint. I used moly grease in the driveshaft and had to do like 70 pumps each. The rear started to push a small amount of grease out the seal and the driveshaft started to clunk and expand. The front was similar but no grease came out the seal, it clunked and expanded and then started to seep into the u joint. Cleaned everything up and went for a drive, everything seemed ok.

 

[pbreisch]

Finally got around to doing my heater T's. I used the aftermarket brass ones. In hindsight I think I would have used OEM.

Old:

T's:

New hose squeezed onto Brass T:

 

[pbreisch]

Changed the AHC fluid over the weekend. A lot simpler than I was expecting. Old nasty fluid out, clean pink fluid in.

 

[pbreisch]

Out of order, but last april (4/4/17) I drove cross country and had Benc install front and rear bumpers. Super great dude, awesome bumpers. I have a feeling I will have a lot more Dissent gear on the truck in the near future.

 

[Rolocado]

Please rust proof that beauty. Would hate to see Michigan eat yet another.

 

[pbreisch]

ahh, thanks for the reminder! I did a KROWN treatment last year, need to schedule another appt. for this year.

I also have a old tacoma that I drive most winter.

 

[FXJ 96]

Nice, I just bought a stock black 2006 so found this looking for ideas. No lift yet on your truck? What size KO2's are those?

@pbreisch

 

[MattyO]

How did you mount the awning to the stock rack? Any issues with the setup? Is the basket mounted to stock rack or do you have some aftermarket bars

 

[pbreisch]

@FXJ 96 No lift, the truck has AHC so I just put it in High mode when I am off road. I did order a body lift from Duiser on 10/26/17, but I have since learned that they might not be the best vendor so I am giving the order another week before I dispute it with my CC. I'm at work so I can't run out and look at the truck but the tires are what ever is the common size, I believe it is 285/65/18 (but check the tire thread). With body lift I wouldn't mind exploring a slightly taller tire but not necessarily wider.

@MattyO I made up some brackets to mount the awning to the factory rails. I can get some pictures to show how I did it but be forewarned, it is pretty rough. It is a very solid mount though, no vibration or loosening at all. I have crossed the country twice with it mounted with our home-brew set up. The basket is mounted to the factory cross bars using the Thule mounts that came with the basket.

 

[WickedPickle]

Out of order, but last april (4/4/17) I drove cross country and had Benc install front and rear bumpers. Super great dude, awesome bumpers. I have a feeling I will have a lot more Dissent gear on the truck in the near future.

View attachment 1565022

How long did the dissent install take? Nice LC.

 

[pbreisch]

@WickedPickle I dropped it off in the evening when I got into town, he may have gotten a jumpstart on the work that night, but it took the better part of the next day to finish the install. He did report some trouble with my factory tow hitch, it sounded like the previous owner had it installed by people less than qualified for the work. My wife and I hung out in the town for the day, I can recommend the thai restaurant on the main street.

 

[pbreisch]

Replaced the chipped windshield and had a body shop take care of any rust that might have been forming. There was a bit of bubbling at the driver A pillar and just above where the rear mirror attaches. This was an aftermarket windshield that was installed by the previous owner.

I provided the body shop all new moldings and rivets and a print out of the FSM. I explained to them how important it was to get the install done properly but I was out of town during the repair and was unable to monitor their work. They did send some pictures of the process, though none of the install.

@2001LC I tagged you because you seem interested in tracking some data on windshields and rust. This is a midwestern car that has spent it's life in the rust belt (Indiana, Illinois, and now Michigan) . The previous owners must have been conscious of keeping it clean as it shows less rust than a typical toyota of this era. I bought the truck last summer and had it Krown treated before winter. The windshield I replaced was an aftermarket model.

Pics of rust:

 

[pbreisch]

Pics of refinishing:

 

[pbreisch]

Finished my OWL Media Mount install last night.

Here are some pics documenting the install on a 2006 LC with NAV. I took the pictures while I was re-installing it so ignore any continuity errors with fasteners.

Remove the side vents, I used the trim tools from harbor freight to get them started, then they just pull straight out. You can remove the 2 connectors to get them out of the way, or just let them hang out.

Next unscrew the 4 bolts holding in the entire unit.

At this point I disconnected all the plugs and took the whole unit to the bench. It seems like a lot to pull out, but don't worry, the plugs are all unique and they can only go back one way.

Once at the bench I first used an 8mm wrench to break the bolts loose then finished them off with a screw driver.

There are 4 bolts that hold the tape deck in it's chassis, similar to a hard drive on a computer, they are the black ones.

There are 4 screws that hold the face plate to the fascia, remove them. On assembly be careful to not over torque, it's just plastic in there. I gave one an extra little twist and had it pop on me.

There are two bolts that hold the lower chassis to the lowest row of buttons. These sandwich the entire assembly. Take these out.

 

[pbreisch]

In between the tape deck and the Nav screen are 3 screws that hold the two sections of fascia together. Remove them. The one in the middle is a bit of a stretch so you will need a long screwdriver or socket extension.

Twist the fascia out of the way.

And pull the tape deck out.

The rest of the install can follow the OWL expedition instructions. I used a JIS Number 1 screw driver to get the little screws out.

Before reassembly, remember to put the lid back on the tape deck. I forgot and had to break it all down again and put it back on. I figured I might as well document the second time. My pain, your gain.


All done.