2004 lx 470 cv axle replacement (1 Viewer)

[AJB]

For a few months have had the typical cv axle knocking noise that happens when I am making a turn. Finally took it to a repair shop and was quoted $2700 for both front axles & bearings. Is it reasonable? Should I also consider getting tie rods also replaced? It only has 86k miles. I bought it a year ago in pristine condition from a single owner. I was thinking of replacing all the fluids. Was quoted $1100 for all the fluids. Again - is that a fair price? I intend to keep this car forever.

BTW: I had timing belt etc replaced when I bought it.

Also - any recommendation on a reliable repair shop near the Morristown NJ area? Would sincerely appreciate it. My experience with the local Toyota and Lexus dealers was unsatisfactory.

 

[Cosmo Kramer]

Not sure if I missed a year or you didn't post it but Crazy money even the Toyota axles are maybe $400 each.

Get your service manual get your hands greasy and figured out it's not that hard.

Good luck.

 

[AJB]

Not sure if I missed a year or you didn't post it but Crazy money even the Toyota axles are maybe $400 each.

Get your service manual get your hands greasy and figured out it's not that hard.

Good luck.

Thank you! It is a 2004 LX. Day job does not leave even evenings free for anything. Have to get someone to take care of it.

 

[BullElk]

That is standard dealership crazy stupid pricing. If time and effort permits, look for an independent mechanic. I just had one axle replaced for $100 labor. If I had a secure flat concrete drive I would have done it myself.

 

[bucfl]

Thats hi in my area, not sure a bout your location. I would get another quote. My dealer will allow me to buy parts and they will install. You can buy from online dealer and get cheaper parts. See if yours will let you do that. Also, if you dont off road, you may be able to get away with after market CV axels. I would go with NAPA new not reman.

If your tie rods are okay then skip it.

 

[AJB]

Thank you much for confirming that I should shop around. I am in Morristown, NJ.

I am only looking at independent shops.

 

[2001LC]

For a few months have had the typical cv axle knocking noise that happens when I am making a turn. Finally took it to a repair shop and was quoted $2700 for both front axles & bearings. Is it reasonable? Should I also consider getting tie rods also replaced? It only has 86k miles. I bought it a year ago in pristine condition from a single owner. I was thinking of replacing all the fluids. Was quoted $1100 for all the fluids. Again - is that a fair price? I intend to keep this car forever.

BTW: I had timing belt etc replaced when I bought it.

Also - any recommendation on a reliable repair shop near the Morristown NJ area? Would sincerely appreciate it. My experience with the local Toyota and Lexus dealers was unsatisfactory.

I've not heard of "typical cv axle knocking noise that happens when I am making a turn. " What I hear is a clicking sound on turns. But would be unusual to hear on factory installed at only 86K miles, unless lifted or boot ripped open.

All to often, improper wheel bearing service leads to FDS (AKA CVs) issues. The most common issue is damage to the splines of outer axle.

Note: FDS has 2 CV inner and outer and 3 axle inner, center and outer.

 

[AJB]

I've not heard of "typical cv axle knocking noise that happens when I am making a turn. " What I hear is a clicking sound on turns. But would be unusual to hear on factory installed at only 86K miles, unless lifted or boot ripped open.

All to often, improper wheel bearing service leads to FDS (AKA CVs) issues. The most common issue is damage to the splines of outer axle.

Note: FDS has 2 CV inner and outer and 3 axle inner, center and outer.

Thank you. Love the diagnosis. It was like you knew the case.

I misspoke- it is a clicking sound and not a knocking sound.

The clicking sound started after I had asked the dealer to repack the bearings to fix the steering wheel shaking.

This week, when I lifted the car and checked for play by holding it at the top and bottom, there was significant play in both the wheels. I am very naïve about the car’s mechanics. One day, I will start fixing stuff myself. For now, according to the mechanic - One of the CV axle appears to be after market. The other boot appears to be eroding. He recommended I get new CV axles and bearings.

Sincerely appreciate all the advice and possible path forward.

 

[bozncsurf]

Thank you. Love the diagnosis. It was like you knew the case.

I misspoke- it is a clicking sound and not a knocking sound.

The clicking sound started after I had asked the dealer to repack the bearings to fix the steering wheel shaking.

This week, when I lifted the car and checked for play by holding it at the top and bottom, there was significant play in both the wheels. I am very naïve about the car’s mechanics. One day, I will start fixing stuff myself. For now, according to the mechanic - One of the CV axle appears to be after market. The other boot appears to be eroding. He recommended I get new CV axles and bearings.

Sincerely appreciate all the advice and possible path forward.

Moving the tire by holding the 12 & 6 o’clock positions and feeling play can also be failing joints on the upper control arms.

Call OK4WD in Stewartsville NJ - ask specifically for Chuck. He has a 100 series cruiser and knows them well

HTH

** and if you find success with OK4WD you can thank me by having some shrimp tacos delivered from urban kitchen in the downtown square

 

[AJB]

Moving the tire by holding the 12 & 6 o’clock positions and feeling play can also be failing joints on the upper control arms.

Call OK4WD in Stewartsville NJ - ask specifically for Chuck. He has a 100 series cruiser and knows them well

HTH

** and if you find success with OK4WD you can thank me by having some shrimp tacos delivered from urban kitchen in the downtown square

Thank you. Will do (accompanied by beer)

 

[AJB]

Thank you. Will do (accompanied by beer)

BTW: a year ago, when I got the bearings repacked, I was told to get new upper control arms - which I did.

 

[2001LC]

Thank you. Love the diagnosis. It was like you knew the case.

I misspoke- it is a clicking sound and not a knocking sound.

The clicking sound started after I had asked the dealer to repack the bearings to fix the steering wheel shaking.

This week, when I lifted the car and checked for play by holding it at the top and bottom, there was significant play in both the wheels. I am very naïve about the car’s mechanics. One day, I will start fixing stuff myself. For now, according to the mechanic - One of the CV axle appears to be after market. The other boot appears to be eroding. He recommended I get new CV axles and bearings.

Sincerely appreciate all the advice and possible path forward.

Unfortunately most shops can't keep a good mechanic.

Find a 100 series specialist in your area. Or. A good Dealership.

A sign of good: Is mechanic and other employees, have worked there for many many years. I've one Toyota Dealership near me, most have worked at for 20 plus years.

Your FDS:
Likely, the factory FDS were replaced due to improper wheel bearing service which can damage them and or minor FDS boot clamp weep. Boot clamp weeping CV grease is common. Wherein, all that is needed is a new clamp. But many shop replace the FDs needlessly instead. They end up putting on junk aftermarkets or manufacturer FDS,

The fact you "feel" loose wheel bearing now, after a wheel bearing service. Indicates a shop and or a tech, that has no clue how to work on these 100 series.

It's suggested (above) the 12 & 6 o'clock inspection play. Could be bad ball joint or control arms bushings. This is true! But not likely at 86K miles. Unless accident damage or the upper control bushing bolts here left loose. When alignment is done, the upper control arm bolts/nuts are loosened. If not re-torque, you "may" get a false 12 & 6 o'clock feel, "I suppose". But I did test on one with accident damage Wherein accident damaged UCA bushing and body shop made a mess of the whole system. Also when SPC upper ball joints installed, we do feel a lot of play. As they are designed with play. So yes there is cases, where we get a false loose wheel bearing feel.

So a second wheel bearing test, is placing finger between wheel and brake caliper. If finger pinched while doing the 12 & 6 (modified 2 & 8 o'clock) play inspection. Then wheel bearings are loose.

In your case:
It's most likely Dealership Tech did not properly pack the wheel bearings. Unfortunately it's near impossibly to find a shop, that does the job by the book (FSM) (Factory service manual). Either they known how, and take to many short cuts to complete service in less than book time (flat rate) and or make mistakes. Or they've no clue and don't open the FSM. The worst is usual when a Brake shop replaces front rotors. Those techs, really make a mess of our front wheel hub.

Here a video less than 2K miles after a Wheel and FDS service. From a shop that claims in their name, to be a Toyota & Lexus specialty shop. We've found them to not only to do terrible service work, damaging 100 series. But crooks as well. In that if you take back for do over of a bad service work done. They'll says it's something else not their fault, and charge big $$ to correct.

 

[2001LC]

Here's same bad wheel bearing service from above, as O open it up.

 

[2001LC]

Here's the same wheel bearing service, where it get's interesting

 

[2001LC]

Here a wheel hub where they pounded off the rotor improperly. I see this all the time. I can usually pound and flat file to get the run-out corrected. But this one, was not restorable. Even the wheel had indentation from the hub. It was a case where when wheel torqued on, a gap remained between wheel hub and wheel. As it was driven, soft metal of wheel, impressed onto hub. Resulting in loose wheels lugs. This vehicle, would never balance or align well with this wheel hub. You can't check wheel hub run-out either, with these beat on hubs.

 

[AJB]

Unfortunately most shops can't keep a good mechanic.

Find a 100 series specialist in your area. Or. A good Dealership.

A sign of good: Is mechanic and other employees, have worked there for many many years. I've one Toyota Dealership near me, most have worked at for 20 plus years.

Your FDS:
Likely, the factory FDS were replaced due to improper wheel bearing service which can damage them and or minor FDS boot clamp weep. Boot clamp weeping CV grease is common. Wherein, all that is needed is a new clamp. But many shop replace the FDs needlessly instead. They end up putting on junk aftermarkets or manufacturer FDS,

The fact you "feel" loose wheel bearing now, after a wheel bearing service. Indicates a shop and or a tech, that has no clue how to work on these 100 series.

It's suggested (above) the 12 & 6 o'clock inspection play. Could be bad ball joint or control arms bushings. This is true! But not likely at 86K miles. Unless accident damage or the upper control bushing bolts here left loose. When alignment is done, the upper control arm bolts/nuts are loosened. If not re-torque, you "may" get a false 12 & 6 o'clock feel, "I suppose". But I did test on one with accident damage Wherein accident damaged UCA bushing and body shop made a mess of the whole system. Also when SPC upper ball joints installed, we do feel a lot of play. As they are designed with play. So yes there is cases, where we get a false loose wheel bearing feel.

So a second wheel bearing test, is placing finger between wheel and brake caliper. If finger pinched while doing the 12 & 6 (modified 2 & 8 o'clock) play inspection. Then wheel bearings are loose.

In your case:
It's most likely Dealership Tech did not properly pack the wheel bearings. Unfortunately it's near impossibly to find a shop, that does the job by the book (FSM) (Factory service manual). Either they known how, and take to many short cuts to complete service in less than book time (flat rate) and or make mistakes. Or they've no clue and don't open the FSM. The worst is usual when a Brake shop replaces front rotors. Those techs, really make a mess of our front wheel hub.

Here a video less than 2K miles after a Wheel and FDS service. From a shop that claims in their name, to be a Toyota & Lexus specialty shop. We've found them to not only to do terrible service work, damaging 100 series. But crooks as well. In that if you take back for do over of a bad service work done. They'll says it's something else not their fault, and charge big $$ to correct.

This is a great resource for many of us. You, Sir, are an encyclopedia and very generous. Sincerely appreciate your guidance.

 

[IGLUZJ]

For a few months have had the typical cv axle knocking noise that happens when I am making a turn. Finally took it to a repair shop and was quoted $2700 for both front axles & bearings. Is it reasonable? Should I also consider getting tie rods also replaced? It only has 86k miles. I bought it a year ago in pristine condition from a single owner. I was thinking of replacing all the fluids. Was quoted $1100 for all the fluids. Again - is that a fair price? I intend to keep this car forever.

BTW: I had timing belt etc replaced when I bought it.

Also - any recommendation on a reliable repair shop near the Morristown NJ area? Would sincerely appreciate it. My experience with the local Toyota and Lexus dealers was unsatisfactory.

For CV axle options as well, they're usually back ordered but you can ask for reman CV axles. A lot cheaper and I cracked one side of one open, all looked OEM to me. And then you could have someone else install. People in the past have said they're rebranded as OEM and not OEM as background on that. Make sure you or them get the new CV seals and snap rings too.

 

[AJB]

For CV axle options as well, they're usually back ordered but you can ask for reman CV axles. A lot cheaper and I cracked one side of one open, all looked OEM to me. And then you could have someone else install. People in the past have said they're rebranded as OEM and not OEM as background on that. Make sure you or them get the new CV seals and snap rings too.

Will do. Thank you!