……. or just drive in the red Georgia clay on a wet day. Exact same effect.
Builds 2002 HZJ76 Build
- Thread starter Rigster
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #362
LOL... I hear you there Phil... can't tell you how many times I am seeing red wondering where it came from only to see that I have yet again scraped the skin off my hand/knuckles.
I honestly was in such a hurry and time crunch (as always) that I did not think of it! Now that you mention it, you have a great idea there!
- Thread starter
- #363
Ok, I drove the cruiser around some more over the weekend, and it is driving beautifully. Nice even braking that feels smooth and solid.
I adjusted the emergency brake and it has good tension like before, only I have to really pull on it a couple of more notches to work well enough on a slope. It seemed to grab better before. My thoughts are they just need to break in ("brake-in?"
) a bit. What do you feller's think of this theory? Time will tell I suppose.
For clarity - this is a rear disc brake setup, with the incorporated drum brake emergency brake.
EDIT: For additional clarity - My break in theory comes from the fact that drum brakes tend to grip more on one half of the shoe. Being these are new shoes, I am thinking I need to wear the corner off a bit to have more shoe in contact with the drum. Since these shoes do not really see any use (emergency brake only) I think I should go and use the emergency brake to stop myself a couple of times to get a little wear on the shoes, thereby creating better/fuller contact with the drum.
I adjusted the emergency brake and it has good tension like before, only I have to really pull on it a couple of more notches to work well enough on a slope. It seemed to grab better before. My thoughts are they just need to break in ("brake-in?"
) a bit. What do you feller's think of this theory? Time will tell I suppose.For clarity - this is a rear disc brake setup, with the incorporated drum brake emergency brake.
EDIT: For additional clarity - My break in theory comes from the fact that drum brakes tend to grip more on one half of the shoe. Being these are new shoes, I am thinking I need to wear the corner off a bit to have more shoe in contact with the drum. Since these shoes do not really see any use (emergency brake only) I think I should go and use the emergency brake to stop myself a couple of times to get a little wear on the shoes, thereby creating better/fuller contact with the drum.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #364
Not much to report lately, as I had my TDI coming up on 320,000kms so I needed to look after the timing belt.
However, I got tired of the fender mirror for people with no spatial awareness and I have had trouble finding a rubber grommet that would fit the hole it would leave behind. I decided to make a blanking plate out of some aluminum flat stock I had.
![20230629_203741[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230629_203741-1-jpg.3361583/ "20230629_203741[1].jpg")
I figure with the better aerodynamics and less weight over the front end, I should see an increase in mileage of 0.03190247 mpg
I still need to clean up the clear coat for the marks the mirror left behind, but I am glad it is gone.
However, I got tired of the fender mirror for people with no spatial awareness and I have had trouble finding a rubber grommet that would fit the hole it would leave behind. I decided to make a blanking plate out of some aluminum flat stock I had.
I figure with the better aerodynamics and less weight over the front end, I should see an increase in mileage of 0.03190247 mpg
I still need to clean up the clear coat for the marks the mirror left behind, but I am glad it is gone.
- Thread starter
- #366
I do like to try to keep a positive attitude, you know... search for that silver lining kind of thing. I find it helps to maintain sanity. That way, the voices in my head tend not to bother other people as much. Also, I like to keep a little humor in my posts to keep an otherwise boring build thread entertaining. That way, fine folks like you come back to read...@Rigster ….. “increase in mileage of 0.03190247 mpg”.
————————————————————————————
It’s obvious that you’re one of those “glass half full” kinda guys.
- Thread starter
- #367
Ok, since no one had an opinion on this, I have done my own testing, and I "broke in" the new emergency brakes a bit by using them to control my speed near my house while going down hill. While this helped a bit, I still was not satisfied with the performance.Ok, I drove the cruiser around some more over the weekend, and it is driving beautifully. Nice even braking that feels smooth and solid.
I adjusted the emergency brake and it has good tension like before, only I have to really pull on it a couple of more notches to work well enough on a slope. It seemed to grab better before. My thoughts are they just need to break in ("brake-in?"
For clarity - this is a rear disc brake setup, with the incorporated drum brake emergency brake.
View attachment 3358394
View attachment 3358395
EDIT: For additional clarity - My break in theory comes from the fact that drum brakes tend to grip more on one half of the shoe. Being these are new shoes, I am thinking I need to wear the corner off a bit to have more shoe in contact with the drum. Since these shoes do not really see any use (emergency brake only) I think I should go and use the emergency brake to stop myself a couple of times to get a little wear on the shoes, thereby creating better/fuller contact with the drum.
My conclusion was to follow the FSM to adjust, but instead of backing off 6 teeth, to simply back off only until I can move the disk/drum freely. Just in case someone else comes across this issue.
- Thread starter
- #368
After contemplating this for many months, and after the positive reports of two upstanding local cruiser owner's - @JDMBC & @JDM Journeys , I took the time to install some sound-deadener in my Land Cruiser.
I only did a rough estimate of what I would need, and purchased 1.5 boxes of kilmat (54sq ft). My plan was to install it with full coverage, and as much as I could on the inner panels and doors. However, in order to still do the doors, I will need to order another 1/2 box, so if anyone else has the same plans, then just grab the 2 full boxes (72 sq ft).
I left the rear seat in place since you can tilt it forward and back with little effort in order to do the work. Everything else came out with the exception of the middle console as I did not want to deal with the mess with the coolant lines for the rear heater.
![20230630_165403[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230630_165403-1-jpg.3365487/ "20230630_165403[1].jpg")
As you can see from the pic above, there is some sound deadener from factory, plus the carpeting has foam backing on it so I was not sure how big a difference the kilmat would make. I decided to bravely(foolishly?) forge ahead with abandon - being careful of the sheetmetal when reaching into the inside panels.
![20230630_180257[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230630_180257-1-jpg.3365488/ "20230630_180257[1].jpg")
![20230630_195010[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230630_195010-1-jpg.3365494/ "20230630_195010[1].jpg")
![20230702_080108[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230702_080108-1-jpg.3365496/ "20230702_080108[1].jpg")
![20230702_080052[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230702_080052-1-jpg.3365497/ "20230702_080052[1].jpg")
I only did a rough estimate of what I would need, and purchased 1.5 boxes of kilmat (54sq ft). My plan was to install it with full coverage, and as much as I could on the inner panels and doors. However, in order to still do the doors, I will need to order another 1/2 box, so if anyone else has the same plans, then just grab the 2 full boxes (72 sq ft).
I left the rear seat in place since you can tilt it forward and back with little effort in order to do the work. Everything else came out with the exception of the middle console as I did not want to deal with the mess with the coolant lines for the rear heater.
As you can see from the pic above, there is some sound deadener from factory, plus the carpeting has foam backing on it so I was not sure how big a difference the kilmat would make. I decided to bravely(foolishly?) forge ahead with abandon - being careful of the sheetmetal when reaching into the inside panels.
Is the Kilmat still made in Russia?? Or have they changed factories/suppliers?
- Thread starter
- #370
I am quite sure this is the first time the carpet has ever been lifted up, and probably the best this has ever been cleaned. While I did not find a lucky penny, I did find this, though I am not sure what the currency denomination is(other than the "1" on it). I had no idea that Japan made money out of aluminum
![20230701_094340[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230701_094340-1-jpg.3365499/ "20230701_094340[1].jpg")
I even did the inside of the "trunk":
Overall, I found this made a big difference. Only, maybe not in the way I would have totally expected. For example, what I found to be quiet before (engine noise) is now more noticeable. I hear wind noise around the windows that I did not before. I don't have to talk so loud on the highway to carry on a conversation, and I can hear the stereo much better.
All wins in my book. For a relatively cheap upgrade (more labor than anything) this is a good choice for best bang for buck, IMHO.
I even did the inside of the "trunk":
Overall, I found this made a big difference. Only, maybe not in the way I would have totally expected. For example, what I found to be quiet before (engine noise) is now more noticeable. I hear wind noise around the windows that I did not before. I don't have to talk so loud on the highway to carry on a conversation, and I can hear the stereo much better.
All wins in my book. For a relatively cheap upgrade (more labor than anything) this is a good choice for best bang for buck, IMHO.
That's a 1JPY coin. It's currently worth less than a now-obsolete Canadian penny, and yes they are aluminum!
- Thread starter
- #372
I honestly had no idea, so I googled it, and it appears the current status is it is made in the Russian Federation. I bought it from Amazon, so I assumed it came from that other, more populous red country.
it said on the boxes it came in. It was funky to see "Made in Russia" a few years ago... now it's an entirely different universe.
- Thread starter
- #374
LOL... shows you how much I pay attention.
- Thread starter
- #375
I thought I would post a quick update/review of a stereo changeover I did had to do on my Land Cruiser.
When my hair was long and my wits were short, I recall having stereo systems in my cars that were worth as much as, if not more, than the car. Now that my hair is short, and my wits somewhat longer, I find I skimp on the stereo options now.
To my detriment...
A couple of years ago when I got my land cruiser from Japan, I installed a feature-rich chinesium android head unit from a brand called hikity. I liked the features and capabilities, but where the plug end went into the head unit, the contacts were just off enough that the power would cut out on it on occasion. I managed to bend one of the tangs so it made better contact, and zip tied the cabling tight to the back. This worked for a while, then it started happening with the speakers. I fixed that, albeit temporarily.
I suppose that is what you get when you only spend $100. I decided my time was worth more than I was putting in trying to get a piece 'o
working properly.
The reviews were so awesome on the following, that I decided to give it another go (as in - buy another chinesium product), and I can say I am really impressed, so far, after a month in. Though it should be noted, that for BOTH the head unit and the slim-line 10" sub were $500 as opposed to $100.
Install went smooth, and the slim line bass is way better than I thought it would be. The sound is now phenomenal. Because the speaker sizes in our land cruisers are comparatively small, one is almost forced to add in a bass option. I will note, I had to MacGyver some brackets for the passenger seat to raise it one inch to fit the slim line bass under the seat and maintain the adjustability of the seat, a minor annoyance.
ATOTO F7 XE 7 inch Double-DIN Car Stereo Receiver- Wireless CarPlay & Wireless Android Auto, Bluetooth, Mirror Link, QLED Display
ATOTO CS-101SW 10” Slim Active Powered Car Subwoofer Sub
Amazon product ASIN B0BYHVV1W7I suppose one could say it was atoto win?
:groan:
When my hair was long and my wits were short, I recall having stereo systems in my cars that were worth as much as, if not more, than the car. Now that my hair is short, and my wits somewhat longer, I find I skimp on the stereo options now.
To my detriment...
A couple of years ago when I got my land cruiser from Japan, I installed a feature-rich chinesium android head unit from a brand called hikity. I liked the features and capabilities, but where the plug end went into the head unit, the contacts were just off enough that the power would cut out on it on occasion. I managed to bend one of the tangs so it made better contact, and zip tied the cabling tight to the back. This worked for a while, then it started happening with the speakers. I fixed that, albeit temporarily.
I suppose that is what you get when you only spend $100. I decided my time was worth more than I was putting in trying to get a piece 'o
working properly.The reviews were so awesome on the following, that I decided to give it another go (as in - buy another chinesium product), and I can say I am really impressed, so far, after a month in. Though it should be noted, that for BOTH the head unit and the slim-line 10" sub were $500 as opposed to $100.
Install went smooth, and the slim line bass is way better than I thought it would be. The sound is now phenomenal. Because the speaker sizes in our land cruisers are comparatively small, one is almost forced to add in a bass option. I will note, I had to MacGyver some brackets for the passenger seat to raise it one inch to fit the slim line bass under the seat and maintain the adjustability of the seat, a minor annoyance.
ATOTO F7 XE 7 inch Double-DIN Car Stereo Receiver- Wireless CarPlay & Wireless Android Auto, Bluetooth, Mirror Link, QLED Display
ATOTO CS-101SW 10” Slim Active Powered Car Subwoofer Sub
Amazon product ASIN B0BYHVV1W7I suppose one could say it was atoto win?
:groan:
when my face was tight and my jeans were baggy, now my face is baggy and my jeans are tight. My 17-year-old is doing his audio in his truck and... well you know the story already.
- Thread starter
- #377
For those with 12v 70 series (this will become much more common in the US by next year) I found these to be a perfect fit for the bulb behind the HVAC controls:
Part 84999-70010
![20230716_142104[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230716_142104-1-jpg.3375882/ "20230716_142104[1].jpg")
I was finally able to get into town while the local muffler shop was open (they close at 4:30, and are not open on weekends). Tough sometimes to get to a store like that when you work from home and live 20 mins away. I wouldn't have it any other way though.
So I managed to get a new exhaust hanger for $15 to replace the first one after the engine - the one that takes the most vibration. The 1HZ runs very smooth, except when starting and stopping.
![20230717_090639[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230717_090639-1-jpg.3375890/ "20230717_090639[1].jpg")
Part 84999-70010
I was finally able to get into town while the local muffler shop was open (they close at 4:30, and are not open on weekends). Tough sometimes to get to a store like that when you work from home and live 20 mins away. I wouldn't have it any other way though.
So I managed to get a new exhaust hanger for $15 to replace the first one after the engine - the one that takes the most vibration. The 1HZ runs very smooth, except when starting and stopping.
- Thread starter
- #378
Those of you that have followed my build thread may recall the utility trailer that I modified to allow me to be on extended SAR searches and have a place to sleep and have everything I need to essentially live wherever I am at the time. I also use it for my yearly fall 2-week trip to explore the backcountry of British Columbia.
Last winter I decided to get one of these, and finally got around to installing it:
Amazon product ASIN B09C2Y88GF
It is basically a knock off of the webasto but at 1/10 of the price. Since this is not a "mission critical" item for me, and based on the reviews, I decided to give it a go. An 8kw heater is way overkill for a ~6x12 space, but I have found running an 8kw heater at 2kw is more efficient than running a 2kw heater maxed out. And at minimal setting, they claim one tank of fuel (10L) will last 100hrs. I assume this means running it constantly, which I will not be doing.
Install was relatively easy, but people complained the injection pump was noisy - a constant "tick, tick, tick, tick" so I built an insulated box for it, and stuck that inside my forward cabinets. So all I hear is the fan, and a really faint tick in the background.
What doesn't come included is any way to exit the exhaust, so I had to buy one more length of bendy exhaust pipe and I used a marine sump port as it is double walled. I also had to build a mounting bracket for it (I didn't want a big boxy one)
![20230522_150145[1].jpg](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/20230522_150145-1-jpg.3376738/ "20230522_150145[1].jpg")
Installed up out of the way:
I still have to route the heater hose downward towards the floor, but you get the idea. You can't see it, but just behind the heater to the right is a vent to outside where it can pull in fresh air.
This heater REALLY puts out the heat... it comes with a panel that you can program for time, when to come on, when to shut off, thermostat controlled like a furnace, or just use a remote to kick it on when you want.
The specs on it, well, on anything really, is annoying. I realize they are provided a perfect lab environment and giving you specs under ideal conditions. However, it does draw a fair bit of amps on startup (glow plug) and I realized with my fridge/freezer in combination with this heater in fall/winter scenarios with limited daylight, I would really need to up my solar game. I ended up taking off my 2 100watt panels and putting up 2 200watt panels. I put in a decent charge controller originally in case I would need to do this, so it was an easy upgrade. My buddy wanted my old (3yrs old) 100watt panels so it was a no brainer for me.
The local truck shop had an insane sale on series 31 batteries which have about 100ah for only $100 so I bought 2 of them. The same bud that wanted my old panels said I should go 2 6-volt and run them in series, but I had to explain to him the difference. While I appreciated his point, I was going for ah increase, so to double my amp hours, I would need to buy 4 6-volt batteries, which incidentally were NOT on sale. Again, a no brainer for me. I am tempted to go back and get 2 more for the Land Cruiser, but I would need to measure and verify if they would fit.
A full on 2 week testing will commence this fall....
Last winter I decided to get one of these, and finally got around to installing it:
Amazon product ASIN B09C2Y88GF
It is basically a knock off of the webasto but at 1/10 of the price. Since this is not a "mission critical" item for me, and based on the reviews, I decided to give it a go. An 8kw heater is way overkill for a ~6x12 space, but I have found running an 8kw heater at 2kw is more efficient than running a 2kw heater maxed out. And at minimal setting, they claim one tank of fuel (10L) will last 100hrs. I assume this means running it constantly, which I will not be doing.
Install was relatively easy, but people complained the injection pump was noisy - a constant "tick, tick, tick, tick" so I built an insulated box for it, and stuck that inside my forward cabinets. So all I hear is the fan, and a really faint tick in the background.
What doesn't come included is any way to exit the exhaust, so I had to buy one more length of bendy exhaust pipe and I used a marine sump port as it is double walled. I also had to build a mounting bracket for it (I didn't want a big boxy one)
Installed up out of the way:
I still have to route the heater hose downward towards the floor, but you get the idea. You can't see it, but just behind the heater to the right is a vent to outside where it can pull in fresh air.
This heater REALLY puts out the heat... it comes with a panel that you can program for time, when to come on, when to shut off, thermostat controlled like a furnace, or just use a remote to kick it on when you want.
The specs on it, well, on anything really, is annoying. I realize they are provided a perfect lab environment and giving you specs under ideal conditions. However, it does draw a fair bit of amps on startup (glow plug) and I realized with my fridge/freezer in combination with this heater in fall/winter scenarios with limited daylight, I would really need to up my solar game. I ended up taking off my 2 100watt panels and putting up 2 200watt panels. I put in a decent charge controller originally in case I would need to do this, so it was an easy upgrade. My buddy wanted my old (3yrs old) 100watt panels so it was a no brainer for me.
The local truck shop had an insane sale on series 31 batteries which have about 100ah for only $100 so I bought 2 of them. The same bud that wanted my old panels said I should go 2 6-volt and run them in series, but I had to explain to him the difference. While I appreciated his point, I was going for ah increase, so to double my amp hours, I would need to buy 4 6-volt batteries, which incidentally were NOT on sale. Again, a no brainer for me. I am tempted to go back and get 2 more for the Land Cruiser, but I would need to measure and verify if they would fit.
A full on 2 week testing will commence this fall....
- Thread starter
- #380
So I was able to complete a couple of projects I have been trying to get done for some time in my "spare" time.
I had to use my spare time because, well, it was for my spare tire on the Land Cruiser, and the spare tire on the trailer. So theoretically, had I not used spare time for this then there may have been catastrophic consequences.
Ok, I will spare you further philosophical debate and get to the point!
I finished a spare tire mount for my trailer. Because it is a v-nose, mounting the spare up front was not ideal, and I did not want it inside. That left the rear...
Bolted on through the frame
Tire mounted
With my trip with the 3 lads coming up in two weeks, I wanted to get the spare out of the back of the land cruiser to maximize storage space for cargo. I simply used a 1.5" spacer and a couple of shims and I am just able to open the small door. Mission accomplished.
I had to use my spare time because, well, it was for my spare tire on the Land Cruiser, and the spare tire on the trailer. So theoretically, had I not used spare time for this then there may have been catastrophic consequences.
Ok, I will spare you further philosophical debate and get to the point!
I finished a spare tire mount for my trailer. Because it is a v-nose, mounting the spare up front was not ideal, and I did not want it inside. That left the rear...
Bolted on through the frame
Tire mounted
With my trip with the 3 lads coming up in two weeks, I wanted to get the spare out of the back of the land cruiser to maximize storage space for cargo. I simply used a 1.5" spacer and a couple of shims and I am just able to open the small door. Mission accomplished.
