JunkCrzr89
Competent Ignoramoose
good example of how useful a WD hitch setup can be when towing heavy!
2001 Lx470 Towing Capacity (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mattman615
- Start date
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good example of how useful a WD hitch setup can be when towing heavy!
Springs are maybe $300 new.
Replacement is a couple hours labor (maybe less).
Front spring adjustment is maybe 30 minutes.
Checking pressures with techstream is around 15 minutes if you include pulling the car into and out of the bay and carefully recording readings.
Call it $500-750, pending labor rates? Tough part finding a mechanic that isn't clueless with AHC. If you start calling around I bet 75% of shops will immediately recommend a complete removal of the system and start quoting you an OME lift kit.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
A properly setup WD/AS hitch will allow you to use the airbags successfully to help with hitching and unhitching, mostly. However, the airbags are pretty redundant with the WD/AS working correctly, even when towing RIGHT AT the 6500lb limit (wink wink) on an 01LX. The airbags will help prevent big road undulations from causing the AHC to drop to L and not be able to recover to N too.
FWIW, I use the Husky WD/AS hitch system with the 1K bars and it works very, very well. They key is ensuring the bar sway action is loosey goosey so you steer the trailer, and not vice versa (don't ask how I found this out).
FWIW, I use the Husky WD/AS hitch system with the 1K bars and it works very, very well. They key is ensuring the bar sway action is loosey goosey so you steer the trailer, and not vice versa (don't ask how I found this out).
- Thread starter
- #24
After much consideration, I’ve almost decided to add air bags to the rear and only pump them up when towing camper. I’m curious though, how does the AHC react when those air bags and springs are there? I’m concerned that the AHC might freak out and try to either drop all the way because the load seems light enough
No problem. AHC aims to maintain height and it's constantly checking and correcting.
I know this isn’t the point of your post but I just want to mention the overdrive off feature if you aren’t using it.
I have a 2001 LX with 130k and tow a trailer that probably is about 3k lbs fully loaded. In overdrive I can tow at 70 easy, but with OD off 65 is kind of the max.
With how heavy your trailer is and comfortably hitting 70, I want to make sure you are utilizing OD appropriately so you don’t burn up an otherwise fairly stout transmission.
- Thread starter
- #27
So then it would function ok if I added bags? Also if you know of a decently priced set (without compressor) I’d love your input!
hoser
SILVER Star
When comes time for new tires, I'd suggest LT tires.... stock diameter or not much larger.
I tow an Rpod 180 camper with my 2002 LX470, Weight Distribution Hitch, Trailer Brakes, single axle, no special mirrors.
Dry weight, my Rpod 180 weights 2,841 lbs but loaded will all our stuff its probably just over 3,000 lbs.
I really wanted another camper (Coachmen 192RBS) weighing dry 4,100 lbs but doing a calculation it was just under the GVWR
and I got concerned. In any case, when I take my Rpod 180 to the mountains of North Carolina, I've had to drop to 2cd gear for the climbs.
Here is the spreadsheet I got off a camping forum some time ago - its pretty good:
Dry weight, my Rpod 180 weights 2,841 lbs but loaded will all our stuff its probably just over 3,000 lbs.
I really wanted another camper (Coachmen 192RBS) weighing dry 4,100 lbs but doing a calculation it was just under the GVWR
and I got concerned. In any case, when I take my Rpod 180 to the mountains of North Carolina, I've had to drop to 2cd gear for the climbs.
Here is the spreadsheet I got off a camping forum some time ago - its pretty good:
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
These rigs can tow 6500 lbs up mountain passes on an interstate highway. I've never climbed higher than a 7% average grade, but the rig will do 7% and should not die from it on a well-maintained and monitored rig. It helps to set aside any mechanical sympathy for the rig, and send "shout outs" to the Higher Power of your choosing when doing so, however. They say life is about the journey, and you'll have plenty of time to savor it going uphill.
With my slightly over 3,000 lb RV when fully loaded, I use OD on flat ground and on anticipation to an upgrade, switch it off, then at the top go back into OD.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
I'd like to know if you see a mpg improvement using OD towing that weight at highway speeds. When towing a 6500lb brick, I see no difference. My trailer is over 9ft. tall and doesn't have a V-hull up front. I'd anticipate its coefficient of aero drag is very high.
In my case towing my RV from the center of N.C. to the coast was 9.5mpg OD off vs 10.9mpg OD on.
Mostly flat ground.
You are right, not much difference.
One note on this: your load sensing proportioning valve (lspv) for your rear brakes gets fooled when you add air to the bags. This prevents it from sending additional pressure to the rear brakes to compensate for the extra weight. The net result is brake force distribution designed for an unloaded rig trying to stop a loaded one. The only way to address this on a part time tow vehicle this old is to install a trailer brake controller.
If you aren't comfortable digging into the wiring, the install shouldn't be too bad at a uhaul shop.
If you aren't comfortable digging into the wiring, the install shouldn't be too bad at a uhaul shop.
- Thread starter
- #35
I guess maybe I’m new to Lexus and Toyota. It puts a little fear in my heart to think about pulling my 6000lb camper at a pretty constant 3500-4500 rpm. Is that fear not rational?
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Worry not grasshopper. I've done that exact thing crossing the country more than once. Coulda traded the rig in on a F250 Powerstroke, but then my cool factor woulda fallen off of the proverbial cliff. PrioritiesI guess maybe I’m new to Lexus and Toyota. It puts a little fear in my heart to think about pulling my 6000lb camper at a pretty constant 3500-4500 rpm. Is that fear not rational?
- Thread starter
- #37
@dieselgeek I purchased air bags, they’re on the way. Also got a WDS coming. Yesterday I got my Scan Gauge. I plugged in the codes that I could find on their website, and I only got a TFT reading on like 2-3 of them. But the TFT was reading 350 when idling in my driveway. What in the world?
The newer 100's with the 5 speed certainly do a lot better for towing closer to rated weights and at higher speeds.
I tow a 4-4.5k ski boat with mine and always keep OD off and speeds lower. I have a plug in OBD2 reader that I use to always monitor my temps when towing - I like to see my temps stay low. We do not tow long distances, and frankly I have never seen temps higher when towing than when driving regularly. I installed an electric over hydraulic setup on our boat trailer (tandem axle with one braking axle) that is so strong it can stop the land cruiser given enough time and distance, so there is little to no braking load on the 100 from the trailer.
Some like pushing weight from their trailer and keep the gain way down on the brakes with the vehicle's brakes picking up a good amount of the work. I prefer the trailer brakes do at least 80% of the braking for the trailer, and there are cases where I've actually felt the trailer slowing the 100 down due to the .5s brake hold delay I have programmed in.
I tow a 4-4.5k ski boat with mine and always keep OD off and speeds lower. I have a plug in OBD2 reader that I use to always monitor my temps when towing - I like to see my temps stay low. We do not tow long distances, and frankly I have never seen temps higher when towing than when driving regularly. I installed an electric over hydraulic setup on our boat trailer (tandem axle with one braking axle) that is so strong it can stop the land cruiser given enough time and distance, so there is little to no braking load on the 100 from the trailer.
Some like pushing weight from their trailer and keep the gain way down on the brakes with the vehicle's brakes picking up a good amount of the work. I prefer the trailer brakes do at least 80% of the braking for the trailer, and there are cases where I've actually felt the trailer slowing the 100 down due to the .5s brake hold delay I have programmed in.
ramangain
Clarksonian disciple
Very good points about trailer brakes. When going down the mountain passes, I almost exclusively use the trailer brakes to control speed in combination with engine braking.
I'm also the fool who will go WOT as long as possible when I see an appreciable incline to build momentum. The 2UZ can survive a whipping.
