LX470 Radiator Capacity? (1 Viewer)
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94SRUNNER
GOLD Star
The coolant system uses about 4 gallons of coolant.
Most here on Mud use either the Toyota super long life pink coolant which is premixed and ready to add or the Toyota long life red coolant which needs to go in at able a 50:50 mix with distilled water. Others use other brands, but stick with red/pink Japanese spec coolants. Stay away from the green coolants.
And whatever you do, make sure you flush the system really good with distilled water to get any old coolant and contaminates that are in the system.
There are lots of threads here on Mud regarding the coolant system and associated maintenance. Search away!
Most here on Mud use either the Toyota super long life pink coolant which is premixed and ready to add or the Toyota long life red coolant which needs to go in at able a 50:50 mix with distilled water. Others use other brands, but stick with red/pink Japanese spec coolants. Stay away from the green coolants.
And whatever you do, make sure you flush the system really good with distilled water to get any old coolant and contaminates that are in the system.
There are lots of threads here on Mud regarding the coolant system and associated maintenance. Search away!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Drain the block both side, radiator and res. If you also replace heater tee. Blow at the heater cores while they're off. You'll get about 3.5 to 3.8 gallons.
2 Toy LL (red) & 2 DS water. mix 50/50 1998-2003
4 Toy SLL (pink) 2004- up.
2 Toy LL (red) & 2 DS water. mix 50/50 1998-2003
4 Toy SLL (pink) 2004- up.
i heard somewhere that the red coolant is supposed to only last 2-3 years, whereas the pink lasts over 5 years. Does anyone have any experience with that ?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Red is 2 yr or 30K, which every first.
Pink is 5yr or 50k, which every first.
Toyota sale liture, states we can mix.
TSB March 22, 2002: Introduction: Applicable Vehicles Warranty Information A new pink colored LLC is being phased into production for all 2002 Japan Built Toyota models. The color change does not affect the maintenance procedures or intervals established for the red coolant. The new pink coolant is 100% compatible with the current red coolant and red coolant can be used to replace, top off, or mix in with the pink coolant with no adverse effects
Why did they develop Pink (also sealed AT). IMHO two reasons:
1) EPA laws, to reduce pollutants. Flush less, less old needs disposal of.
2) Cost of ownership tables. Flush less reduce annual cost.
But here's the "rub" IMHO:
1) I find less pitting issues throughout the system and plastic, such as Radiator plastic and heater Tees. Seem to last longer w/Red. That is, in a "properly maintain" Red system (98-03).
Two possible reasons either or both may be true, just my thoughts:
A) Refreshing coolant more often. Adds back the plasticizer heat and time leaches out.
Note: I did once find article, stated the Toyota coolant has a plasticizer. But I'm not positive it was true/accurate!
B) Ph level become more acid with time and use. Refreshing helps keep a proper ph.
2) If we mix Pink in a red system. Which Pinks states do not add water. We have added water, since some red remains in the coolant system. Which has 50% D-water mixed in. So best practice, we must flush on red schedule. Which I read the TSB to say (in bold above).
3) I never like mixing any fluids. So next owner or some shop, see It's a "Red system" the 98-03 100 series and tops with red or visa versa. "Suppose" to be okay. But it is not okay to add water to Pink. Humm! Confused yet?
4) Red is mixed w/ D-water 50/50. This lends itself to D-water flush. We measure what comes out, and find we 1 gallon (unless we blow out, then we may only level 1 or 2 qts) remaining in system. So after 3 D-water flushing (until runs clear). We've a gallon of ~95% D-water and 5% old mix. So we've ~1 gal of ~98% clean D-water remaining in system. We then add 1 gal of red 100%. Now we've 2 gal of 51/49% red/D-water in system. We premix a jug of red with D-water and top with 2 gallons of our premix we just made (50/50 red / D-water). Done, with fresh as can be 50/50 (50.98/49.02%) Red mix.
4) Pink systems (03-07) I avoid chemical or D-water flushes. Why, we can't get out all chemicals or D-water from the system. Best case we'll have 1qt of D-water in the system. So when we then add in the Pink which is premixed 50/50, I've now added to 1qt D-water. Read the bottle, which it very clearly warns "Do not to add water". So again we must flush early, as if we have a system with red. We also have dilute the pink pre mix. This change ph and freezing & boiling points/temps
5) When I help others with their 100 & 200 series. I top coolant with what their rig year calls for by OM. If they happen to have Pink in a red system (98-03) I've just contaminated. They now need 2yr or 30K flush.
When I baseline any 100 or 200 series. I flush 100% of and add back:
Coolant, Toyota yr spec.
Brake fluid. Toyota only.
Gear boxes, Mobil 1 (exp 200 series TC, they get $100 Toy TC lube).
Engine, Mobil 1,
AT 12qt flush. 98-02 Mobil 1 MV ATF, 03-up Mobil MV full Syn (I switch from WS, a few years ago, but will use WS on request).
PS, Mobil 1 MV ATF.
This way I also know I'm not mixing fluids, any time I top. I've seen many issues mixing, especially Brake, AT, coolant even gear lubes.
Other shops like Slee. Don't use synthetic gear lubes (AFAIK) in gear boxes. Some articles around about not using synthetics gear lubes. A top tier gear box (diffs & TC) rebuilder, warns: do not use syn gear lubes, with Mobil 1 as exception.
My 2 cent.
Pink is 5yr or 50k, which every first.
Toyota sale liture, states we can mix.
TSB March 22, 2002: Introduction: Applicable Vehicles Warranty Information A new pink colored LLC is being phased into production for all 2002 Japan Built Toyota models. The color change does not affect the maintenance procedures or intervals established for the red coolant. The new pink coolant is 100% compatible with the current red coolant and red coolant can be used to replace, top off, or mix in with the pink coolant with no adverse effects
Why did they develop Pink (also sealed AT). IMHO two reasons:
1) EPA laws, to reduce pollutants. Flush less, less old needs disposal of.
2) Cost of ownership tables. Flush less reduce annual cost.
But here's the "rub" IMHO:
1) I find less pitting issues throughout the system and plastic, such as Radiator plastic and heater Tees. Seem to last longer w/Red. That is, in a "properly maintain" Red system (98-03).
Two possible reasons either or both may be true, just my thoughts:
A) Refreshing coolant more often. Adds back the plasticizer heat and time leaches out.
Note: I did once find article, stated the Toyota coolant has a plasticizer. But I'm not positive it was true/accurate!
B) Ph level become more acid with time and use. Refreshing helps keep a proper ph.
2) If we mix Pink in a red system. Which Pinks states do not add water. We have added water, since some red remains in the coolant system. Which has 50% D-water mixed in. So best practice, we must flush on red schedule. Which I read the TSB to say (in bold above).
3) I never like mixing any fluids. So next owner or some shop, see It's a "Red system" the 98-03 100 series and tops with red or visa versa. "Suppose" to be okay. But it is not okay to add water to Pink. Humm! Confused yet?
4) Red is mixed w/ D-water 50/50. This lends itself to D-water flush. We measure what comes out, and find we 1 gallon (unless we blow out, then we may only level 1 or 2 qts) remaining in system. So after 3 D-water flushing (until runs clear). We've a gallon of ~95% D-water and 5% old mix. So we've ~1 gal of ~98% clean D-water remaining in system. We then add 1 gal of red 100%. Now we've 2 gal of 51/49% red/D-water in system. We premix a jug of red with D-water and top with 2 gallons of our premix we just made (50/50 red / D-water). Done, with fresh as can be 50/50 (50.98/49.02%) Red mix.
4) Pink systems (03-07) I avoid chemical or D-water flushes. Why, we can't get out all chemicals or D-water from the system. Best case we'll have 1qt of D-water in the system. So when we then add in the Pink which is premixed 50/50, I've now added to 1qt D-water. Read the bottle, which it very clearly warns "Do not to add water". So again we must flush early, as if we have a system with red. We also have dilute the pink pre mix. This change ph and freezing & boiling points/temps
5) When I help others with their 100 & 200 series. I top coolant with what their rig year calls for by OM. If they happen to have Pink in a red system (98-03) I've just contaminated. They now need 2yr or 30K flush.
When I baseline any 100 or 200 series. I flush 100% of and add back:
Coolant, Toyota yr spec.
Brake fluid. Toyota only.
Gear boxes, Mobil 1 (exp 200 series TC, they get $100 Toy TC lube).
Engine, Mobil 1,
AT 12qt flush. 98-02 Mobil 1 MV ATF, 03-up Mobil MV full Syn (I switch from WS, a few years ago, but will use WS on request).
PS, Mobil 1 MV ATF.
This way I also know I'm not mixing fluids, any time I top. I've seen many issues mixing, especially Brake, AT, coolant even gear lubes.
Other shops like Slee. Don't use synthetic gear lubes (AFAIK) in gear boxes. Some articles around about not using synthetics gear lubes. A top tier gear box (diffs & TC) rebuilder, warns: do not use syn gear lubes, with Mobil 1 as exception.
My 2 cent.
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
Water pitting on it on block.
My little block pit patching. I find all have some pits:
My little block pit patching. I find all have some pits:
