2001 LC 100 Series Used 215k Advice (1 Viewer)

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Hey all,

First time posting, long time lurker. Hope I can contribute something to this awesome forum at some point in the near future. I'm a proud owner of a 1997 Toyota 4runner 3rd gen. I've put nice 5100 bilstein adjustable shocks all around, nice duratrac wrangler 265/75/16 tires on the truck. I also invested in a bunch of off road recovery gear (Compressor, Maxtrax w/ mounts, rotopax (2x 3gal) w/ mounts, shovel w/ mount, roof box, nice platform swing away mountain bike rack, etc. So I have a bunch of stuff I'd like to keep going as it's only been around for about a year tops... but alas, my pocketbook has grown more and more annoyed keeping the 186k mile body and frame free of Minnesota rust and I'm just not really willing to shell out the time/money to do a frame swap or something crazy on this vehicle at its age and risk of other complications. They are awesome, they are fun, they don't deserve 15k in repairs to make them last another 5years. Just my opinion. So this brings me to my current situation. I want to sell cheap or part out the 4runner and get a 2001 LC 100 series with 215k miles. It is at my toyota dealer here in Oregon and seems to be in really good shape. 1 owner, 17 years. The manual had a small grocery list in perfect cursive lettering with healthy food on it. (don't know why that matters but stuck in my head...) Seems like it was pampered and driven pretty lightly, albeit frequently over the past decade and a half. The t joints that I've read have been known to fail near the rear of the engine block are pristine, the brake pump/compressor functions as it should, the dealership did the timing belt and water pump right before putting it on the lot, new battery, new fluids, no rust on the frame or body, no rust in the tailgate, interior leather and all controls look like new, (not armorall but just like they have been used lightly). All lights, windows, transfer case, shifters, moonroof, doors, locks etc. work well. I took it for a test drive around town and on the highway and it drives very nice and smooth but is definitely a bigger rig than the 4r, brakes and throttle are definitely more sensitive than my old t4runner too... What else should I be checking out when I go to look tomorrow?? I can see the front wheel bearings are rusty through the chrome wheels but things don't seem to have much play and it handles nicely. I put in a semi low ball offer on a 10,990 lot price of 8,500 and they met me at 9000. With Oregon there is no tax :). That's the lay of the land. Rusty 1997 t4r, nice 2001 LC100 with high mileage, a bunch of parts that I'd like to reuse, not a ton of dispensable cash, but enough to invest in a new rig.

Pre-Owned 2001 Toyota Land Cruiser Four Wheel Drive SUV

So... The question.

-Should I get this used car? Is it right for me? I look to the sage advice of the forum for guidance in this time of decision... It is in nearly perfect condition from what I can tell. I love the LC platform and intend to build a good dual purpose (off road + on road) rig for the following reasons:

1. Go explore the US countryside for hiking, rock climbing, mountain biking, and general backcountry camping that gets us away from the crowd. I love being out a little bit from civilization. Don't need to go totally into the middle of nowhere and have an unexpected breakdown or something that ruins a weekend. Somewhere in the middle of "out there" necessity.
2. Don't need super crazy rock crawling capability. I'll likely get a dirt bike or a ATV for serious offroad trails in MN and WI in the next few years and tow it behind on a small utility trailer. I drive in snow, ice, sand, gravel, about 40% of the time (it's winter for 5 months every year in MN) and on city and highway pavement about 60% of the time.
3. Mods/Upgrades: I'd likely take off the running boards, put on some sliders, add some additional skids for the times that I'll try my hand at a line I'm not really experienced with, get my roofrack sorted with maxtrax, shovel, roofbox, and add an ARB or similar front winch mount bumper as I drive in the land of 10,000 lakes and 100,000,000 deer/moose etc. I also built a really awesome sleeper/cooking box that is in the T4r that I may want to reuse or modify to fit the new rig.
4. "us" = me my lady and my labrador dog with kids in the 5 year future. Would like a good set up that we won't grow out of too quickly. I intend to do a couple of long trips across the US and possibly to SAmerica (pan american hwy) and would love to build a rig that was up to the challenge. The high mileage (215k) is the only thing that scares me here. mPG is part of the bargain for the reliability and capability of the platform in my opinion. I drive with 3-4 people, a trunk of outdoor gear, and a few dogs, for 3-4 hours almost every weekend of the year. This should be a good rig to take people and gear to wherever I want to go.
5. Aside from the mods, I would like to get something that I can build up as I go and use the parts I've invested in the t4r if at all possible. This is a big question as I don't know if there's any way... or reason, to put 5100 adjustable bilstein front and rear shocks with OME 2881 front coilover and OME 2906 rear springs into a LC 100. Is there a possibility with this to help out the stock suspension or am I being stupid in thinking this is possible?? I'd like to use my tires and/or rims if possible. They are stock rims but would save me 1k in new rims and another 1k in new tires. I love the duratrac in snow, sand, and ice and they are suprisingly quiet, they are heavy though. There are road tires and some weird aftermarket glammy rims on the thing now... They need to go regardless. I may upgrade in the future but these do just fine for the moment.
6. I haul a 5x8 trailer (~2000lbs) full of band equipment about 20 days a year. I haul a heavy pontoon, speedboat, sailboat, and other watercraft about 10-15 miles about 5-10 days a year when we put in and out at the cabin in Wisconsin. I plan to get a 4x4 ATV or dirt bike in the next few years. Would trail this behind in utility. (Thought about a Tundra for just loading that stuff in the bed but can't really do the whole full size pick up thing just yet both price wise and the size of the thing. It won't fit in my garage...)
7. I'd like to not spend more than 3-4k immediately after purchase with upgrades. a 12-13k total for the rig from used lot to my garage. I'd like to bargain with the dealer to get them to do any install of parts or preventative maintenance that is recommended for a vehicle of this age/mileage. The history on the vehicle is kind of spotty so that has me wondering what should be done before I drive off the lot. Again, it has only had one owner who bought it new in 2001 and just sold it this year to get another LC. The carfax is just regular maintenance/check ups and there are sometimes years in between entries in the carfax. Again the thing looks and drives like a dream but don't know if that raises red flags for you all.

Thanks in advance for all of your help. There is great wisdom in this forum and I'm hoping you all will be friendly to my naivety, honest in your advice, and creative with your ideas. I'd love to join the crew, just looking for a good entry point that won't screw me over.
 
I would buy it. Easy choice over the 4R.
215K is low miles. One owner (that eats healthy) and no tax... if you want it, get it. The history and condition doesn’t seem to reflect neglect. These vehicles are quite capable as is. How much you spend on it for other reasons is totally a personal thing.
Probably needs the TB service and baseline
 
I would buy it. Easy choice over the 4R.
215K is low miles. One owner (that eats healthy) and no tax... if you want it, get it. The history and condition doesn’t seem to reflect neglect. These vehicles are quite capable as is. How much you spend on it for other reasons is totally a personal thing.
Probably needs the TB service and baseline
You probably just scanned through the full essay like I did but timing belt has been done. :p

9k is exactly what I paid for my 2001 without timing belt service so I think that’s a good price. I would buy it.
 
The 100 will certainly suit your needs.
The 4runner suspension parts and wheels will not transfer to the 100. However, your 265/75r16 tires would fit nicely on a set of stock 16" 100 series wheels.

It sounds like a nice Cruiser and at $9k is reasonably priced. I'd buy it and enjoy the heck out of that low mileage Cruiser.
 
Thanks for the replies! It’s always a balance between writing too much and risk people not reading everything or be short and wind up answering questions for the first two days of comments... guess I wrote too much?

What would you recommend for a good set of wheels to mount the duratracs on? Could be Toyota or other. Would like black in color if possible.

What else could I ask the dealer to do as preventative maintenance?

I saw the Slee OffRoad checklist for used cruisers that I’ll bring with me today. Any other major things I should check on this that pics or description make you think of??

So rear coils can’t transfer either?? LC coils are swapped all the time into t4runners... i gotta keep on dreaming right?

Thx for the feedback!
 
It's priced right it would seem. Some notes from your initial post.

Wheel bearings are internal (inside the hub itself), you wouldn't see them looking through the wheels. Likely will want to pull, clean, inspect, and repack as it needs it every 50k or so. Takes a few hours the first time and about $30 in stuff. You'd feel play by lifting it off ground and doing a push/pull test.

T-joints are the heater Ts. They all will look good, even original Ts. When you remove them they fall apart. Mine were replaced by previous owner at 90k preventatively and still cracked when I swapped them at 175k. $20 bucks and an hour.

T belt being done is nice. Fluids being changed is good, so long as they didn't pump out and then fill up reservoirs like many used dealers do. I'd still plan to baseline some fluids. $100 bucks roughly and can be done at your leisure.

I'd have a full inspection done on it via a disinterested party, preferably a Toyota specialist shop. Attention paid to front CVs, ball joints, tie rod ends, steering rack, power steering pump, etc. These things may have been done and listed on paperwork, but the work may not have been done right. Inspections can catch that sometimes.

Valve cover gaskets go on these at that mileage, check for leaks by looking through the wheel well above exhaust manifold. $30 to do yourself or $300-400 for a shop.

It's a good deal even if they don't do the work. Plenty of info here and learning to do the work is fun.
 
High mileage? Sounds like just broken in 😉
Check the steering rack for leaks, they seem to go around the 200k mark. Moonroofs in these tend to seize up as well, might check that. Cables rust and will no longer open.
 
Last edited:
Hey all. Thanks for your comments. I'll try to be a bit more brief... sorry for the novella to start this thing off.

So I closed the deal this evening. They gave me a good price on my t4r on trade and I was able to put a super small payment to get the rig back home. I'll take it to a toyota specialist this next week to have CV joints, fluids, steering rack, t joints, and bearings taken care of if needed. Thanks for the feedback there. I spent about 45 mins under the car and under the hood with the slee 100 series checklist which proved super useful. The only things that I saw were the CV's had a little bit of grease/mud that looks like it was a super slow thing but built up a little bit. Other than that, there is absolutely no rust, no oil, and it drives really nice.

I'm going to do a few things right off the bat. So suggestions on some things would be great:
-A good set of rims and tires. 16-17" as I want to be able to find spares readily. Also, I'll likely get a 2" lift at some point in the near future so that should probably be factor to look towards. Thinking BFG K02s in 285/75/16 on either a set of stock 16"rims off CL (!$300 with some haggling Lexus LX470 or Land Cruiser wheels and tires . 5 Lugs . Center caps) or something after market if I can find a good deal and figure out the front wheel dust cap fitment.
-Roof rack. Low profile, strong, full length if possible, t slots preferred or something that is easy to mount things to without c clamps and all of that. Baja racks looks nice but a bit expensive. Maybe thats what I'm looking at though for price on this? Baja Rack 100 Series Land Cruiser Standard Basket Rack I have a big 3'x7' fiberglass roof box, maxtrax, and a shovel that needs to go up top. I have 2x 3gallon rotopax that could either go up top or stay on my bike rack swing out carrier. It holds up well but definitely takes my departure angles down a bit. especially without a lift... I may want a roof top tent if we decide to be in desert or snowy stuff most of the time. We are fine in the forest with hammocks/tents or sleeping in the back.
-Lift. Would like to get 2" up on this rig at least but don't want to start getting too lifted and unstable. My t4r was a bit too drifty to make me feel super confident on pavement at speed. Looking at Icon at the moment. Don't need anything too crazy but would like to replace that stuff before I get too far into the build. ICON Stage 1 Shock System 100 Series Toyota Land Cruiser What do you all think of these icons?
-Sliders. I will take the running boards off this weekend. would like to get some sliders. Do I need weld on? Will bolt on do the trick? I'd like to save some install costs if possible with this but don't want to sacrifice too much in durability as I'll want to use these as jacking points I'm sure in the future.
-Bluetooth adapter. I want to just tap the CD player in the center console for rca connectors if possible. Keep everything in there and not need to mess with too much. Is that possible? I don't think I'll ever use the CD player so I would happily replace this for some bluetooth connection in an inconspicuous spot. Was thinking this: Amazon product ASIN B00MH5CFEU
Thanks people!
https://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-MBT-RX-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B00MH5CFEU
 
Nice.

Aftermarket options are in my experience more expensive for 100s than 4r or FJ. Economies of scale and size of components generally factor in heavily. Just a lot fewer LCs out there. Roof racks are definitely a hit to the wallet. That's a lot of stuff going on the roof from a center of gravity standpoint.

Would be awesome if Prinsu made racks for 100s.

Bolt on sliders are fine. Most shops are back ordered so get yourself on the list now.

Good luck with the build. Icons are super nice.
 
Thanks for all of your help here! Super helpful.
I did a ton of reading/looking the past few days. There's a lot to take in. My lady has started to lay the hammer on my forum time researching parts and figuring out how to deliver and get all of this stuff going... Basically I need to stop for a minute. But I think I've decided that I'm going with the following to go on the cruiser. Please let me know if there are better options within similar budget that I'm unaware of or just haven't gotten to yet in the depths of this forum...

18" Tundra wheels and I'll bore out the dust cap to fit w/ a drill OEM Tires/Wheels
BFG KO2 285/65/18 = 32.5" Tall, 11.2" Wide, Is there any problem running E load rating? It seems like the only one available... LINK
OME/ARB 303001 Torsion Bars
OME Nitro Sport Shocks ARB Sport Shock - 60000
ARB/OME 2860 Rear Coils
ARB/OME 60002 Nitrocharger Shocks ARB Sport Shock - 60002
SP 25455 Upper Control Arms

4wparts in Portland is going to put it all together for me if I go this route. Any other good options up there for parts and labor? I'm going to leave it with them for 4-5 days while I'm back in MN for the weekend of June 6-11 so they have time with it.

Any great mechanics in Portland to do a complete check up and service on the LC?

Thanks yall!
 
Lets try some photoshopping to get people talking... Vote for your favorite wheels. Going with K02s in some size that will fit on a 2" lift and fits whatever wheels I choose. The stance and tires will look a little different once things are lifted. I also didn't really go into crazy detail with 17 vs 16". I can get 4 stock LC wheels to add to the matching spare for $350. I could powder coat them all black for about $200. I could get 5 method NV wheels in black or bronze (I have the gold accents on this LC...) for about $1100. The chrome 20"ers and street tires need to go.

Current Whiteout.jpg


Stock + KO2.jpg


Stock Blk + KO2.jpg


Method NV Bronze.jpg


Method NV Blk.jpg
 
Congrats.

I would stick with 16s, but that's just, like, my opinion, man. Also, it's an ancient truck and this yr allows you to very cheaply/easily ( no messing with charcoal nonsense ) to do the spare tire mount lift ( one more thing for your to search ) Does it have screen or simple radio?
 
Thanks for your reply. It has nav screen. I was wondering about this. Is there an aux jack on the back of the head that I can replace the cd left/right rca connections with a bluetooth receiver to 1/8" jack to rca on the back of the head?

I'd love to get the spare up out of underneath. I'll look it up!
 
Here's some progress photos... Got a nice set of 16" rims off CL that came off another 01' cruiser to match my spare and got 5 BFG KO2 (MTS rating not DT) 285/75/16 tires mounted up last week. Put about 1500 miles on them already. Totally changed the thing visually and the road feel is amazing. Little to no noticeable road noise increase. Never going back to duratracs if these do well in the snow this winter...

With drawers and loaded up with camping gear, the original stock springs on the rear end were sagging pretty bad. Wanting to go slow and save some money, I had a set of 2860 OME rear springs put on yesterday (I don't have a garage or jackstands out here in Oregon at the moment so paid for the shop to do it) and I think its starting to level out although there are still a few things to put in the rear so will get a little less stink buggy in the next few weeks. It's about 1.75-2" higher up in the rear but I think that'll come down with the fridge and gear loaded. I haven't driven it yet but may have to throw new shocks/tbars in there but wanted to do one thing at a time.

2007862


Next 2 things on the list:
Rear Bikes/Hitch. I need to figure out how to get that rear hitch receiver and bike rack/rotopax rack up higher. Why are they so low on these things!! I may just have to get a rear bumper before anything else. Any good ideas? I thought about a hitch splitter but that doesn't change where the receiver is located (lower than the lowest part of the rear bumper...)

Fridge. I'm sick of digging through ice water and having to stock up on ice in summer. I'm going to make the plunge. Do people plug these straight into the 12v socket in the drivers side rear cargo area? I probably won't leave the car sitting for more than a night maximum and would love to not run a dual battery just yet... Possible? Stupid? Which one? I was looking at the ARB 50qt or the Dometic CFX or CFF. Also thinking I'll get a drop or tilt slide out and transit soft case at some point so recommendations on that would be awesome. If you aren't going dual battery up in the hood, do most people run a small portable battery like the Dometic PLB40 or Goal Zero Yeti 1000 and charge that while driving then turn on the power when engine is off?

Also need to find some place to take the running boards off/sell them. I don't have a home at the moment until I get back to MN so kind of at a loss for what to do while traveling. Is it fine to take off the rear spoiler? That thing seems useless... I'm assuming the major thing is to put antiseize on bolts for both the running boards and spoiler and replace them so water/dirt doesn't get in there?
 
Take the running boards off behind a Wal-Mart somewhere when no one is looking :hillbilly:. Or like a Chick-fil-a or Hobby Lobby on Sunday where they're busy with holy matters. They're really easy to take off unless you have a ton of rust.

I run the ARB 50Q (works great). I have dual batteries now, but it worked just fine on a single battery—it's got built in voltage protection so it won't strand you (but it will let your food go to hell—just keep an eye on the voltage and start/run as necessary). Wasn't a problem all winter (of course), but once the warmer weather came in, I went to dual batteries to keep from having to monitor it. I didn't ever consider running a portable battery, because the fridge runs for a good long while on the single LC battery.

I'd buy their (ARB) fridge harness to run it. I'm not sure the plug in the back is rated for a full-amp draw (but I'm no electrician). Amazon product ASIN B0742LV4JW
If you take off the rear spoiler—do it carefully, and keep it. More than a few people here want one so you can make a few bucks back if you go that route.
 
Take the running boards off behind a Wal-Mart somewhere when no one is looking :hillbilly:. Or like a Chick-fil-a or Hobby Lobby on Sunday where they're busy with holy matters. They're really easy to take off unless you have a ton of rust.

I run the ARB 50Q (works great). I have dual batteries now, but it worked just fine on a single battery—it's got built in voltage protection so it won't strand you (but it will let your food go to hell—just keep an eye on the voltage and start/run as necessary). Wasn't a problem all winter (of course), but once the warmer weather came in, I went to dual batteries to keep from having to monitor it. I didn't ever consider running a portable battery, because the fridge runs for a good long while on the single LC battery.

I'd buy their (ARB) fridge harness to run it. I'm not sure the plug in the back is rated for a full-amp draw (but I'm no electrician). Amazon product ASIN B0742LV4JW
If you take off the rear spoiler—do it carefully, and keep it. More than a few people here want one so you can make a few bucks back if you go that route.

Yep I probably just need to take those little running boards off and give them to a chick or Walmart or something. Not a big deal. Maybe ill leave the spoiler...
 
Totally. I’m down with the gold and the trim. I think I’m just going to keep it in all of it’s weird vintage glory. I was thinking of plastidipping or rattle canning the trim but I think I’m going to rock stock bumpers for a little longer and until I get all black bumpers (effectively turning this into a stormtrooper). Then I may start to whitewash. It’s just such a clean car... I’m from MN so the lack of rust is magical.
 
Take the running boards off behind a Wal-Mart somewhere when no one is looking :hillbilly:. Or like a Chick-fil-a or Hobby Lobby on Sunday where they're busy with holy matters. They're really easy to take off unless you have a ton of rust.

I run the ARB 50Q (works great). I have dual batteries now, but it worked just fine on a single battery—it's got built in voltage protection so it won't strand you (but it will let your food go to hell—just keep an eye on the voltage and start/run as necessary). Wasn't a problem all winter (of course), but once the warmer weather came in, I went to dual batteries to keep from having to monitor it. I didn't ever consider running a portable battery, because the fridge runs for a good long while on the single LC battery.

I'd buy their (ARB) fridge harness to run it. I'm not sure the plug in the back is rated for a full-amp draw (but I'm no electrician). Amazon product ASIN B0742LV4JW
If you take off the rear spoiler—do it carefully, and keep it. More than a few people here want one so you can make a few bucks back if you go that route.
So a few questions on that ARB fridge. For the hookup, just run the lead to the Normal (single) battery terminals then to the back of the vehicle and this prevents any full discharge? Is there an easy in/out point for the wiring? Under the vehicle and up? or through the firewall and route through the interior. Could easily swap the leads to a second battery up front if/when that becomes necessary it seems like. Good for the interim and future😀... thinking about next steps and not shooting myself in the foot with this, What do you all recommend for a simple dual battery set up? There’s a ton of room under the hood so I assume someone makes an all in one with a connect/disconnect pack to link batteries/alternator right? I’ll do some searching first... should be fine with factory torsion bars.

With 9” tall drawers in back, I think I’ll either need a shorter fridge like the 63qt ARB or one of the dometic to be able to at least crack it open to grab stuff without opening the gate and pulling the whole thing out. Any recommendations for best slide and tilt or full pull/drop set up?? I don’t see the really nice dropdown ones on ARB so that’s gotta be another manufacturer right? In terms of placement in the cargo area...Does it make more sense to install the fridge on the non-gas tank side of the vehicle to balance??
 
So a few questions on that ARB fridge.

Wire routing sounds correct. Run through the grommets on either side of the firewall (depending on where your placement ends up), and from there it's easy to route through the inside. There isn't any need to cut the harness down to size if you're planning on doing it differently in the future. Just coil up what you don't use under the hood by the battery.

Simple dual battery? Homemade, manual switching to connect the two. There are a few threads here, some in the 80 series, and more in the Electrical Forum. Equipt sells a National Luna kit that works great, but of course it's more expensive than sourcing your own components. Slee makes battery trays that work well if you can't make one yourself.

You're right on the drawers—I have to slide the 50Q almost all the way out in order to get the lid to open far enough. I wish I'd put some more thought into that. I have the drawer from Frontrunner, but it doesn't tilt. Alu-cab makes one (Alu-Cab Tilting Fridge Slide (Small/Medium Fridges)), but it only fits certain dimensions. I forget the name of the other tilt slide manufacturer.

Placement: mine is on the PS, but mostly because I wanted the 60 side of the 60/40 backseat split as a spot to put the mattress when I camp that way. It makes backing up in tight spaces more difficult because of the limited/nonexistant visibility.
 

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