I did bump a few things for sure.... it was a fun trip.....There's been no noise of anything breaking down or fracturing or anything like that.
2000 LX470 Transmission Failure (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BLetty
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no it was dry for sure. that fluid is Tcase 100% because it's glistening around it and I have had that before. this time it's just a lot. BUT the tCase doesn't and didn't make any noise like major failure or anything....
There shouldn't be any sparkles in the oil that you drain. Let's say there was few, but you still have to drop the pan to get a good idea of the condition. If you see a lot of metal debris, then there is no need to do anything to that transmission as it needs a full rebuild. If there are no debris, first take a good breath! then leave the filter alone, clean the magnets, a new filter gasket (notice there are two types of gaskets, 19 bolts and 20 bolts): add new fluid and call it done.
Now to the oil. this can be from over heating gear oil from either front diff or transfer case breathers. check the breather tubes: front diff breather is located right below the power steering reservoir and the transfer breather is attached to the trans dipstick housing closer to the top.
Now to the oil. this can be from over heating gear oil from either front diff or transfer case breathers. check the breather tubes: front diff breather is located right below the power steering reservoir and the transfer breather is attached to the trans dipstick housing closer to the top.
There's no transmission fluid anywhere (the fluid on my shots is gear oil from Tcase) I have check from front to back and there's not a drop or a sign of any leaks. The trans cooler is fine as well, I mean it's dirty but no cracks, no leaks nothing. The hoses to and from it are tight and dry.
I am going to drain the transmission and remove the pan next for sure. but if there's no debris then i am not sure what it could be.
I checked all the linkage and all the electrical connection on the outside of Transmission and everything is in place and tight, no cut wires etc....
No CEL on dashboard when the trans went? Connect Techstream, health check, and look for any DTC of Transmission solenoids. DTC won’t always cause a CEL.
When you drop the pan, you can run diagnostics on the valve body solenoids - there are values for each listed in the FSM.
If you can find a valve body out of a junkyard model, you can swap to see if that’s your problem- or weigh the cost of rebuilt trans vs a valve body. The A343F used to be available from Toyota in a rebuilt option- not sure if it’s still being offered.
Check around to see if it can be ordered $3800 +\~
350106A02084
When you drop the pan, you can run diagnostics on the valve body solenoids - there are values for each listed in the FSM.
If you can find a valve body out of a junkyard model, you can swap to see if that’s your problem- or weigh the cost of rebuilt trans vs a valve body. The A343F used to be available from Toyota in a rebuilt option- not sure if it’s still being offered.
Check around to see if it can be ordered $3800 +\~
350106A02084
Hi guys,
Same thing happened to my 2000 lc. Last week after a week in Death Valley. I got it towed to Toyota San Bernardino. They were able to find compatible transmission with 87k miles. Curious if you know this pn will work for my 100.
Same thing happened to my 2000 lc. Last week after a week in Death Valley. I got it towed to Toyota San Bernardino. They were able to find compatible transmission with 87k miles. Curious if you know this pn will work for my 100.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
The ID plate you need is on the side of the gearbox. I'd seriously doubt that mileage number.
The problem (for me) buying a used transmission is that you have absolutely no idea how that thing performed before it was pulled. It's not like an engine that you can run on a pallet to check.
For perspective, a new torque converter ($380) and OEM overhaul kit ($650), less labor (removal/teardown/reassembly/reinstallation), will cost you right at $1000. And $130 for ATF. Plus the jack rental (2x $45; once for removal and once for installation).
If you buy a used transmission, you have to pay for removal of the old one, and installation of the new (used) one, and if it fails, you're out twice that, plus the cost of TWO transmissions, because now you need another one. Regardless of "guarantees". Plus you're out the use of your truck.
If you rebuild yours, or have it rebuilt, you have a new transmission. And a new torque converter (I wouldn't put the old one back in). FWIW, when I looked last year, there were no Toyota reman units available.
The problem (for me) buying a used transmission is that you have absolutely no idea how that thing performed before it was pulled. It's not like an engine that you can run on a pallet to check.
For perspective, a new torque converter ($380) and OEM overhaul kit ($650), less labor (removal/teardown/reassembly/reinstallation), will cost you right at $1000. And $130 for ATF. Plus the jack rental (2x $45; once for removal and once for installation).
If you buy a used transmission, you have to pay for removal of the old one, and installation of the new (used) one, and if it fails, you're out twice that, plus the cost of TWO transmissions, because now you need another one. Regardless of "guarantees". Plus you're out the use of your truck.
If you rebuild yours, or have it rebuilt, you have a new transmission. And a new torque converter (I wouldn't put the old one back in). FWIW, when I looked last year, there were no Toyota reman units available.
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In addition to what said above, if teeth on planetary gears are damaged, a simple repair kit won't help. I went this way.. ended up using a good used trans and rebuilding it.
These fancy 87K miles are not real. It could be 287K miles. Again, if it is also from a 2000, then same going to happen down the road. Best will be to fully rebuild the trans. My cruiser pulls10 times better after the trans rebuild ( cost $3881).
In any case, make sure to install an inline trans filter (magnaflow is an excellent brand) after the air cooler to catch any particles that may still present in lines.
These fancy 87K miles are not real. It could be 287K miles. Again, if it is also from a 2000, then same going to happen down the road. Best will be to fully rebuild the trans. My cruiser pulls10 times better after the trans rebuild ( cost $3881).
In any case, make sure to install an inline trans filter (magnaflow is an excellent brand) after the air cooler to catch any particles that may still present in lines.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
If that's really a 1999 model, it should have one of these numbers on the ID plate:
Each year had a different part number (apparently) but anything from 1998-2001 will work. You're looking for a model A343F from a truck with your engine size. The 80 series A343F (1995-1997) will not work. You also need a torque converter, because I doubt the salvage unit comes with one (I wouldn't use it even if it did).
The two best sources I've found are Precision Torque Converter in NH and Florida Torque Converter. Their prices are the same. Florida TC sells directly (which is why I bought mine from them), Precision sells through a dealer network of transmission shops, which is a PITA. Both sell rebuilt units, which is OK. No one is making new ones (at least not that I was able to find).
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
^This. And, the overhaul kit contains ONLY gaskets and new steel/clutches. If you have any other damage, that'll be extra
...or you could just flush the cooler lines.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
@Rioja100Series, you can get all the model/part numbers, like the ones I posted above, at Lexus Parts now. Just change the vehicle year for all the years I listed above.
great info. Toyota San Bernardino currently installing it now. Let me know your thoughts here is the
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
That looks like a 1998 model, but yes, it's a replacement. The different years may have different clutch packs in them, I haven't done a comprehensive comparison. But if it came out of a truck with the same size engine as yours, it'll work at least as good as it did in that truck. For whatever that's worth to you.
If Toyota is installing it, they should be able to verify applicable fitment for you; down to tracing the serial number. Also, if they find the serial number, they can provide you with the VIN it was attached to, and from that you (or they) can list the service history, which, among other things, will tell you how many miles were on it when it was last serviced, by Toyota.
I'd make sure they flushed the transmission cooling system, BEFORE they connected the cooler lines to it, otherwise, whatever was floating around in your transmission is going to be in this one, too.
Also, FWIW, my concern about used torque converters is the lack of ability to get them flushed, even if they function check correctly. Someone may tell you they can flush the entire system after they get it together, but why would you pay someone to circulate trash inside your transmission, and THEN remove it?
If Toyota is installing it, they should be able to verify applicable fitment for you; down to tracing the serial number. Also, if they find the serial number, they can provide you with the VIN it was attached to, and from that you (or they) can list the service history, which, among other things, will tell you how many miles were on it when it was last serviced, by Toyota.
I'd make sure they flushed the transmission cooling system, BEFORE they connected the cooler lines to it, otherwise, whatever was floating around in your transmission is going to be in this one, too.
Also, FWIW, my concern about used torque converters is the lack of ability to get them flushed, even if they function check correctly. Someone may tell you they can flush the entire system after they get it together, but why would you pay someone to circulate trash inside your transmission, and THEN remove it?
A new torque converter as stated above is like 350, so getting a new converter will give you a peace of mind and may improve the throttle response as I experiencing with trans rebuild with a new converter. By reading all rhese transes related threads, I am glad I listened to the shop who advised me (told them I plan to keep the truck) to get it done right at the first place. I just went under my truck to inspect the tag on the side and yes it is my 2000 year trans 60840.
Two days ago something felt off, so yesterday I drove into work with Radio off into work, and got a 1-2 slip shift, some call it flaring i guess? I did that once the trans was at temp. Kind of did it every stop after that. On the way home, seemed ok until I was almost home (40 Min commute, all highway), pulling out from a light in a slow traffic turn, had it in first, and it 'popped out' of gear, let off the throttle and kicked back in. That was about a mile from home. Parked it and will dig in tomorrow. Have a feeling the pan is going to look like the OP pics... Have our annual trip to San Juan's in about 5 weeks. Looking at 200's lol, but will probably take this as a point to do a bunch of mods I've been waiting to do. Will post here as I find out more. 178K Miles.
Bought with 110K about 6 years ago, I'd say my miles are 80% highway and 20% adventure, mostly Colorado passes and quite a few mild not much wild offroading/camp trips in Ark.
Bought with 110K about 6 years ago, I'd say my miles are 80% highway and 20% adventure, mostly Colorado passes and quite a few mild not much wild offroading/camp trips in Ark.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I'd flush the transmission first, and see if that helps. Mine is on the bench for full rebuild this weekend, but when it started slipping as you describe, the flush made a noticeable difference. And prolonged the eventual demise by six months. Using the 2nd start feature helped, too; shifting into 2nd with the gear selector lever won't work - it'll still start out in 1st.
Your symptoms sound like clutch failure. If it is, it'll progress from the lower gears until the O/D fails, then you'll be stuck with one gear. Unfortunately, unlike an engine, there is no way to diagnose these transmissions without disassembling them, unless you have a clear fault code. I'd plan on an overhaul in the near future.
Are you building yours? If so what all parts did you source?
Dropped the pan and confirmed. Tons of fines and quite a lot of chunks. Put a clean filter, and replaced 5 qts. Drives better now but I'm leaving od off. I'll start sourcing parts and start looking for a new daily, the 100 will probably get relegated to adventure mostly.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Ughh! Mine's nowhere near that bad. I am overhauling it myself. Hopefully it doesn't become a rebuild. It is taking a while, because I have to function check every assembly to find out what works and what doesn't. I don't want to install seals on parts that won't work. I'm using an OEM overhaul kit and OEM parts, where necessary.
My plan is to complete the function checks before installing the new seals and clutch disks. If there are any serious problems, or parts I cannot replace because they're NLA, I'm overhauling another gerabox.
Mine looks similar to yours; someone's been in it before and it wasn't a factory rebuild. That cork gasket isn't OEM. That's a job shop rebuild tell tale. The aftermarket overhaul kits have them. Mine had a cork gasket and the previous idiot left the O/D piston out of the valve body when he put it back together.
My plan is to complete the function checks before installing the new seals and clutch disks. If there are any serious problems, or parts I cannot replace because they're NLA, I'm overhauling another gerabox.
Mine looks similar to yours; someone's been in it before and it wasn't a factory rebuild. That cork gasket isn't OEM. That's a job shop rebuild tell tale. The aftermarket overhaul kits have them. Mine had a cork gasket and the previous idiot left the O/D piston out of the valve body when he put it back together.
It was red FPIG, no cork gasket. But yeah. My Over Drive is gone, replaced 5 qty of fluid, new filter and runs ok, but got to keep it out of OD. There is one shop in town that I'm going to call and see if he'd done one before and how he feels about it. If that's a bust i'll do it my self, like you over time. Looking for a GX460 to do the Colorado trip we have coming up in a few weeks.
