2000 LX470 Transmission Failure (3 Viewers)

[BLetty]

Adding another MY2000 100 series transmission failure here. LX470 with a build date of 02/2000, mileage is at 214,383 miles. Excellent maintenance since purchase 2nd hand at 140K miles.

There was very little warning signs, a few instances of the feeling the transmission slipping in 1st and 2nd gear going up a parking garage ramp and a steep city road (Seattle). I instantly starting searching here on ih8mud and discovered many threads on MY2000 transmission failures (and a few on the edges of the model year). I took a brief test drive up to ~45 mph so it would shift into 4th gear while still as quiet as possible, and heard the slightest of whines - similar to the noise the transfer case makes when really cold. I immediately clicked the "O/D off" button to force the transmission to downshift into 3rd, the noise disappeared, and I drove home without issue.
Reference thread: 2000 Trans Status 2011 Update - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2000-trans-status-2011-update.501772/

Normally that slight whine would not have caused me much concern, but several previous posts have indicated the failure starts in the O/D planetary assembly, possibly due to a defective shim or spacer part. Later that night I dropped the transmission pan and discovered all 4 magnets had piles of metallic shards, and the entire half-inch of remaining ATF had an incredible amount of metallic silt in it. Needless to say the transmission is toast, but amazingly it still operates in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear normally with the overdrive turned off.

I cleaned the pan and screen, replaced the pan, and refilled with new AFT. The vehicle still drives without issue in the first three gears (limping to the parts store), and I haven't temped fate by letting the transmission shift into 4th gear. Looking at the A343F manual it's clear that for the first three gears the O/D Direct Clutch (Co) is activated, essentially preventing relative motion within the O/D planetary assembly. Basically just passes engine torque through to the other two planetary stages for shifting gears 1st thru 3rd. 4th gear activates the O/D Brake and releases the O/D Direct Clutch, allowing for relative motion within the O/D planetary assembly (and what I assume is a less than 1:1 ratio, hence "overdrive").

Previous thread with a picture of the O/D planetary damage: 2000 Land Cruiser Transmission Failure - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2000-land-cruiser-transmission-failure.279831/page-7

The next battle I'm fighting is finding a replacement transmission. Seems the US is out of remanufactured transmissions (35010-60840-84) for the MY2000 vehicles (08/1999 to 08/2000 production dates). I've read that there are some differences for the previous MY1998-1999 transmission (03/1998 to 08/1999 production dates), PN 35010-60611-84, and that those might not be compatible. The following years' transmission MY2000-2002 (08/2000 to 08/2002 production dates), PN 35010-6A020-84, seems like it might also work even though most part websites don't list it as such. Reason being is that both the 35010-60840-84 and 35010-60611-84 share the same rebuild kit and seal kit part numbers. My local dealership confirmed I had the correct part number, but would not confirm cross compatibility with the other part numbers. Also every junk yard I've talked to (try not to laugh, I'm running out of options here) doesn't distinguish at all between the three part numbers, and lists all model year 98-02 transmissions as interchangeable with each other. Searching online looks like there may be a few 35010-6A020-84 left in the US, and I'd love to go that route and avoid a junkyard roll-of-the-dice transmission if I could avoid it.

Reference thread on transmission part numbers: 00 and 02 transmission, different part numbers? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/00-and-02-transmission-different-part-numbers.1047396/

Can anyone comment if they have successfully installed a transmission from an earlier (98-99) or later (00-02) version in a MY2000 LX470/Landcruiser?
I really appreciate all the help here within the ih8mud community!

-Bart

 

[94fiveohvert]

Hey there, my new to me 2000 lc100 has delayed engagement/slipping in the 1-2, 2-3 shifts but no issues with o/d. Just curious if you've had any developments or leads since your last post.

 

[BnvS]

OP good luck with that.. I have a 2000 LC as well. But with 180k miles so I'll look for those signs. I hope you get this sorted out.

 

[BLetty]

I was not able to locate a new or factory remanufactured transmission (35010-60840-84) anywhere in the country after working with my local stealership. Toyota was able to locate a remanufactured unit (35010-6A020-84) for the later model years, but they refused to comment if it would be compatible. Also that unit was not in stock, it would have to be assembled/re-built once the order was placed with an unknown lead time, all to the tune on nearly $4k.

I decided to bite the bullet and I purchased a used transmission out of a 2001 Land Cruiser (35010-6A020) at a local junkyard with ~150k miles on it for about $700. I did a full parts list and sub-assy comparison between this model and my model and could only find a few minor differences (different clutch/brake plate P/Ns but with the same thickness, different gasket in the solenoid housing, etc.) with all of the seemingly important parts identical (interface housings, torque converter, solenoids, guts, wiring, connectors, planetary gear assemblies, shafting, etc.). Thought being if it works I've demonstrated that the two different models are actually interchangeable, and so if it fails cause it's a used part I can go buy the Toyota reman version without fear of spending $4k on a gamble.

 

[BLetty]

I just got the unit home and did a quick side-by-side comparison, everything looks identical externally, down to the wiring harness colors and fiddly bits. Odd thing I noticed is that the new name plate reads "35010-6A030" when I would have expected it to read "...-6A020". For reference my removed transmission name plate read "35010-60850" when I would have expected it to read "...-60840" so I'm guessing it's a sub-assy part number thing where they are off by a digit.

A few tips for transmission removal:
1. You don't need to remove all electrical connectors from the transmission, I wasted sooooo much time doing this under the vehicle. Instead just disconnect the main 3 plugs at the engine side (along with a few other connectors that come from a vehicle side harness), some vent lines, the dip stick bracket from the engine, unscrew the shift knob, unhook the cooler lines, and unhook the shift shaft. The junkyard transmission on the right is a perfect example of minimalism vs my take-out on the left of doing too much.

2. I removed the transfer case from the transmission before removing the transmission from the vehicle. This made reaching the bellhousing bolts and later dropping the transmission so much easier. If you have two transmission jacks and a bit of patience you might be able to skip this step.

3.) A 30" long 1/2" extension made the bellhousing bolts a piece of cake.

4.) I bent the factory bracket holding the main 3 electrical connectors to the transmission upward slightly for ease of access to a hidden bellhousing bolt.

5.) My transmission was originally difficult to remove from the engine, due to the torque converter pilot nose being stuck in the crankshaft pilot bore. As the transmission is first pulled rearward off the engine, the torque converted was just sliding off the transmission input shaft, making it impossible to drop down vertically. Some gentle prying on the face bolt pattern of the torque converter to free it from the crankshaft was the ticket. It's worth it to take your time adjusting the transmission jack height and angle to prevent binding.

 

[94fiveohvert]

I was not able to locate a new or factory remanufactured transmission (35010-60840-84) anywhere in the country after working with my local stealership. Toyota was able to locate a remanufactured unit (35010-6A020-84) for the later model years, but they refused to comment if it would be compatible. Also that unit was not in stock, it would have to be assembled/re-built once the order was placed with an unknown lead time, all to the tune on nearly $4k.

I decided to bite the bullet and I purchased a used transmission out of a 2001 Land Cruiser (35010-6A020) at a local junkyard with ~150k miles on it for about $700. I did a full parts list and sub-assy comparison between this model and my model and could only find a few minor differences (different clutch/brake plate P/Ns but with the same thickness, different gasket in the solenoid housing, etc.) with all of the seemingly important parts identical (interface housings, torque converter, solenoids, guts, wiring, connectors, planetary gear assemblies, shafting, etc.). Thought being if it works I've demonstrated that the two different models are actually interchangeable, and so if it fails cause it's a used part I can go buy the Toyota reman version without fear of spending $4k on a gamble.

I appreciate you going through the effort to document this. Thanks for the hard work. I'll be keeping an eye out for updates.

 

[Razorback in TX]

I just got the unit home and did a quick side-by-side comparison, everything looks identical externally, down to the wiring harness colors and fiddly bits. Odd thing I noticed is that the new name plate reads "35010-6A030" when I would have expected it to read "...-6A020". For reference my removed transmission name plate read "35010-60850" when I would have expected it to read "...-60840" so I'm guessing it's a sub-assy part number thing where they are off by a digit.
View attachment 2970548

A few tips for transmission removal:
1. You don't need to remove all electrical connectors from the transmission, I wasted sooooo much time doing this under the vehicle. Instead just disconnect the main 3 plugs at the engine side (along with a few other connectors that come from a vehicle side harness), some vent lines, the dip stick bracket from the engine, unscrew the shift knob, unhook the cooler lines, and unhook the shift shaft. The junkyard transmission on the right is a perfect example of minimalism vs my take-out on the left of doing too much.

2. I removed the transfer case from the transmission before removing the transmission from the vehicle. This made reaching the bellhousing bolts and later dropping the transmission so much easier. If you have two transmission jacks and a bit of patience you might be able to skip this step.

3.) A 30" long 1/2" extension made the bellhousing bolts a piece of cake.

4.) I bent the factory bracket holding the main 3 electrical connectors to the transmission upward slightly for ease of access to a hidden bellhousing bolt.

5.) My transmission was originally difficult to remove from the engine, due to the torque converter pilot nose being stuck in the crankshaft pilot bore. As the transmission is first pulled rearward off the engine, the torque converted was just sliding off the transmission input shaft, making it impossible to drop down vertically. Some gentle prying on the face bolt pattern of the torque converter to free it from the crankshaft was the ticket. It's worth it to take your time adjusting the transmission jack height and angle to prevent binding.

2001 LC owner here. Best of luck with the repair. I admire your tenacity!

 

[shtbrwn86]

Adding another MY2000 100 series transmission failure here. LX470 with a build date of 02/2000, mileage is at 214,383 miles. Excellent maintenance since purchase 2nd hand at 140K miles.

There was very little warning signs, a few instances of the feeling the transmission slipping in 1st and 2nd gear going up a parking garage ramp and a steep city road (Seattle). I instantly starting searching here on ih8mud and discovered many threads on MY2000 transmission failures (and a few on the edges of the model year). I took a brief test drive up to ~45 mph so it would shift into 4th gear while still as quiet as possible, and heard the slightest of whines - similar to the noise the transfer case makes when really cold. I immediately clicked the "O/D off" button to force the transmission to downshift into 3rd, the noise disappeared, and I drove home without issue.
Reference thread: 2000 Trans Status 2011 Update - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2000-trans-status-2011-update.501772/

Normally that slight whine would not have caused me much concern, but several previous posts have indicated the failure starts in the O/D planetary assembly, possibly due to a defective shim or spacer part. Later that night I dropped the transmission pan and discovered all 4 magnets had piles of metallic shards, and the entire half-inch of remaining ATF had an incredible amount of metallic silt in it. Needless to say the transmission is toast, but amazingly it still operates in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear normally with the overdrive turned off.

View attachment 2945314

I cleaned the pan and screen, replaced the pan, and refilled with new AFT. The vehicle still drives without issue in the first three gears (limping to the parts store), and I haven't temped fate by letting the transmission shift into 4th gear. Looking at the A343F manual it's clear that for the first three gears the O/D Direct Clutch (Co) is activated, essentially preventing relative motion within the O/D planetary assembly. Basically just passes engine torque through to the other two planetary stages for shifting gears 1st thru 3rd. 4th gear activates the O/D Brake and releases the O/D Direct Clutch, allowing for relative motion within the O/D planetary assembly (and what I assume is a less than 1:1 ratio, hence "overdrive").

View attachment 2945316
Previous thread with a picture of the O/D planetary damage: 2000 Land Cruiser Transmission Failure - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2000-land-cruiser-transmission-failure.279831/page-7

The next battle I'm fighting is finding a replacement transmission. Seems the US is out of remanufactured transmissions (35010-60840-84) for the MY2000 vehicles (08/1999 to 08/2000 production dates). I've read that there are some differences for the previous MY1998-1999 transmission (03/1998 to 08/1999 production dates), PN 35010-60611-84, and that those might not be compatible. The following years' transmission MY2000-2002 (08/2000 to 08/2002 production dates), PN 35010-6A020-84, seems like it might also work even though most part websites don't list it as such. Reason being is that both the 35010-60840-84 and 35010-60611-84 share the same rebuild kit and seal kit part numbers. My local dealership confirmed I had the correct part number, but would not confirm cross compatibility with the other part numbers. Also every junk yard I've talked to (try not to laugh, I'm running out of options here) doesn't distinguish at all between the three part numbers, and lists all model year 98-02 transmissions as interchangeable with each other. Searching online looks like there may be a few 35010-6A020-84 left in the US, and I'd love to go that route and avoid a junkyard roll-of-the-dice transmission if I could avoid it.

Reference thread on transmission part numbers: 00 and 02 transmission, different part numbers? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/00-and-02-transmission-different-part-numbers.1047396/

Can anyone comment if they have successfully installed a transmission from an earlier (98-99) or later (00-02) version in a MY2000 LX470/Landcruiser?
I really appreciate all the help here within the ih8mud community!

-Bart

You gave tips on removal, but I assume you installed the transmission? And you put a 2001 tranny in a 2000 LC? And everything is working fine? I have a 99 that seems to be going out and I am not sure what route to go. I assume it's discontinued as well, but if I can find one they look to be about $2,000 online? Is that right? And how ddi you find your transmission? Just called the wrecking yards until someone had one?

 

[BLetty]

You gave tips on removal, but I assume you installed the transmission? And you put a 2001 tranny in a 2000 LC? And everything is working fine? I have a 99 that seems to be going out and I am not sure what route to go. I assume it's discontinued as well, but if I can find one they look to be about $2,000 online? Is that right? And how ddi you find your transmission? Just called the wrecking yards until someone had one?

@shtbrwn86 I ended up searching my local wrecking yards (they have great online search tools) to see if they had transmissions for the target model year LX470/Landcruiser, MY2000-2002 (08/2000 to 08/2002 production dates), PN 35010-6A020-84, even though I actually have a "pure" 2000 LX470 (p/n 35010-60840-84 for the MY2000 vehicles with 08/1999 to 08/2000 production dates). So yes, I technically installed a 2001 Landcruiser/LX470 transmission in my 2000 LX470.

Can confirm I did the removal and installation myself back in early April of this year. It was definitely a lot of work without a lift, but totally do-able if you have a transmission jack/lift and jack stands.

It's been nearly 6 months of hard driving through the Washington passes and many overlanding trips without a single issue. Pretty compelling evidence that the two transmissions are indeed interchangeable. So far, so good!

Sounds like you have a 99, so see my previous posts for the part numbers and production dates. I did not scrub the parts list for that model year's transmission so I can't comment on interchangeability. I would avoid a MY2000 transmission through lol.

 

[nissanh]

I recently destroyed my 2000 LC's transmission (1st 2 pics). It worked 100% (well it shifted all gears and drove like it should) until I pulled to get gas at San Antonio TX. Then tried to drive back into the service road and felt something like a flat tire.. wont move with the gas.. Pulled to a parking lot and heard some cracking noises under the truck. I drove another mile and felt slippage, and hard shift into 2nd gear. There were no sign until this moment:

Knowing it is a 2000 year model, I knew it is the transmission. Called a trans shop (all remans are back ordered and most internal parts are not available at Toyota) . Trans shop did a tow and got it fully rebuilt for $3881 out the door with 12K mile/1 year warranty (Shop is called Mr. Transmission): the shop confirmed the O/D roller bearing disintegrated and destroyed the transmission

With the rebuilt trans, I feel the acceleration and the power of V8, Since I had it, it drove OK, but never like present! Now my cruiser is like a sports car and it pulls like it has never done before. I am very happy that I did a rebult as it has unvailed the power of a V8.

Don't forget to install an inline trans filter to catch any bit and pieces that may still be inside the lines/cooler after the damage (last picture is from another forum member).

The 1999, I believe has a different P/D safety switch connector, rest looks identical.

 

[BullElk]

Knowing it is a 2000 year model, I knew it is the transmission.

How many miles on it and what specifically about the 2000 model caused that failure?

 

[nissanh]

How many miles on it and what specifically about the 2000 model caused that failure?

249K miles:

It's the needle roller bearings located right inside the O/D planetary gears. Another thread in mud also said that his 2000 model/year faild and it is also this needle roller bearings that started disintegrating causing the damage to O/D planetary gears. He initially noted some vibration/rattle in OD and disappeared with O/D off. Mine had no symptom(s) just happened. I cruised 350 miles from home at 70-80 MPH all the way to SA-TX without any issues and it happened right in that big city! I was lucky!!

 

[BullElk]

Just thinking about my 2000s with 251k and 381k. So far so good.

 

[nissanh]

Just thinking about my 2000s with 251k and 381k. So far so good.

I heard not all 2000 have this issue. Some 2000 failed the trans at 50K and got warranty replacements. If you come across an 01 trans, just grab it. Though I got it rebuilt, if I find an 01 in the yard, I'll pull one may be another mudder may need it.

After the rebuild, my LC is FUN to drive... it pulls fast everybody inside the truck pushes back when I accelerate (just 1/2 inch on gas! not paddle to metal)

 

[Malleus]

I just got the unit home and did a quick side-by-side comparison, everything looks identical externally, down to the wiring harness colors and fiddly bits. Odd thing I noticed is that the new name plate reads "35010-6A030" when I would have expected it to read "...-6A020". For reference my removed transmission name plate read "35010-60850" when I would have expected it to read "...-60840" so I'm guessing it's a sub-assy part number thing where they are off by a digit.
View attachment 2970548

A few tips for transmission removal:
1. You don't need to remove all electrical connectors from the transmission, I wasted sooooo much time doing this under the vehicle. Instead just disconnect the main 3 plugs at the engine side (along with a few other connectors that come from a vehicle side harness), some vent lines, the dip stick bracket from the engine, unscrew the shift knob, unhook the cooler lines, and unhook the shift shaft. The junkyard transmission on the right is a perfect example of minimalism vs my take-out on the left of doing too much.

2. I removed the transfer case from the transmission before removing the transmission from the vehicle. This made reaching the bellhousing bolts and later dropping the transmission so much easier. If you have two transmission jacks and a bit of patience you might be able to skip this step.

3.) A 30" long 1/2" extension made the bellhousing bolts a piece of cake.

4.) I bent the factory bracket holding the main 3 electrical connectors to the transmission upward slightly for ease of access to a hidden bellhousing bolt.

5.) My transmission was originally difficult to remove from the engine, due to the torque converter pilot nose being stuck in the crankshaft pilot bore. As the transmission is first pulled rearward off the engine, the torque converted was just sliding off the transmission input shaft, making it impossible to drop down vertically. Some gentle prying on the face bolt pattern of the torque converter to free it from the crankshaft was the ticket. It's worth it to take your time adjusting the transmission jack height and angle to prevent binding.

Quick question for you: does the transfer lever assy have to be removed, before cropping the transmission, or wil it pivot out of the way as the transmission moves down and out? I see both of yours look like the lever assy's are still in place and weren't removed before the transmissions came out.

 

[BLetty]

Quick question for you: does the transfer lever assy have to be removed, before cropping the transmission, or wil it pivot out of the way as the transmission moves down and out? I see both of yours look like the lever assy's are still in place and weren't removed before the transmissions came out.

@Malleus I did not have to remove the shift lever before installation or removal, but I did have to remove the linkage that goes between the shift lever and rotary arm at the other end of the transmission.

 

[Malleus]

@Malleus I did not have to remove the shift lever before installation or removal, but I did have to remove the linkage that goes between the shift lever and rotary arm at the other end of the transmission.

Thanks, I got that far, but I was leary of scratching the post while I was wiggling the transmission under the floor, to get it off the crankshaft. I finally got it out, but I think I'll drill access holes in the tunnel before I put it back in. Two quarter sized holes will let me get the bolts and socket in place.

 

[SteveH]

Your story just RINGS of my '00 4Runner transmission story - here: 4Runner transmission story - https://risingsun4x4club.org/xf/threads/4runner-transmission-story.32243/

Even the damage pix are similar. I got the same story - Toyota told me that only a Calif-spec transmission would fit, when in fact, all I had to do was swap the transmission pans. I could find no shops that would rebuild it - nor did I trust any. Every junkyard told me that many years would fit (they were right). Wish I knew what caused it to grenade.

 

[samP504]

Ok so 30 miles from Albuquerque 3 days ago my 2000 LX tranny failed me on the way home to New Orleans.... that was after a great trip overlanding in Utah so I am not THAT mad but now I need to fix it. I just started to read up on all that. I had maybe a small vibration that I was not used to but didn't think anything about it since we had been driving in a lot of muddy stuff and thought that it was just that..... one moment I am going 75MPH and one second later I am hitting rev limiter a no more tranny.... did not overheat or gave me any signs of failing...

Ended up (arrived earlier today actually) trailering the rig back 1300 miles to NOLA on a uHaul trailer.... Now that I am home I need to start figuring this out.

What year do I need to look for in a replacement?

I do see a LOT of fluid under my belly but I am not sure, yet, what it's coming from. It's clear for sure. I was towed 10 miles by a friend to get to safety. I had but the tcase in neutral and the engine running to have steering and brakes. my input and output shafts seals do have leakes but that's a LOT of fluid. see pics.

I think drop the pan is my first move right ?

Thanks

 

[hoser]

Follow the fluid to the most forward position of the undercarriage. I see fluid on the passenger side T-bar. I would suspect either a hose to your transmission fluid cooler or the cooler itself. The cooler is in front of the radiator.