2000 lx470 no gears? (4 Viewers)

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I have had it for 2 years. 225,000 miles. Only thing I can think of is sometimes it would make a clunk into drive but that's if I shifted to fast without stopping all the way. Literally no other signs I can think of. No leaks at all. Let me double check the fluid but the rattle is a little concerning. Would torque converter be a reason drive shaft isn't spinning? There is no resistance shifting but I did notice that the drive shaft would bump when shifting so I'm guessing it wouldn't be the shifter itself? Thoughts?
The clunk is pretty normal and mine has been clunking away for many years. Torque converter issues would lead to no motion but I don't know, it doesn't seem like your converter can just fail like that. I don't think I've seen any forums around that and if so, it's rare. Does your fluid smell burnt and look very dark?

Someone feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

If you put it in neutral does the vehicle roll? Seeing the driveshaft bump when you shift seems like a promising sign that something is happening.

So vehicle in drive, giving it a little throttle, you just hear some noise or nothing happens, it just revs up?


WTF are we missing here. If your range lever was stuck in Neutral I think there would be a dash warning light and buzzer so that shouldn't be a concern. I'm temporarily stumped.
 
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This one is interesting as the 343 is a pretty venerable transmission. I have no idea how much you know about these trucks, so don't take it personally here. We need to rule this one out for certain:

When you hit the center diff lock button, do you hear a faintly audible click from near your feet, and do you see the ABS, VSC, and CDL lamps illuminate as steady lights on the dash? There should be no blinking lamps. Need all of that to happen for this test to be meaningful. We're trying to get power to your back axle in the event that you blew a drive flange or CV spline. This is a VERY common failure which presents almost exactly as you are describing, so I want to make absolutely certain that this is not the case.

Otherwise, there are a couple long shot items in the trans that could lead to this.
 
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Oh no what 2000 Trans issue?
FWIW, the 2000 100 series (LC & LX) have a higher transmission failure rate than all the other 100 series year models, because Toyota made and sold 2x more of them in the US. It has the same transmission as the 1998-1999 and 2001. The 2002-2003 has the same series, but with different internal parts; I haven't been able to determine whether these are interchangeable or not (again, FWIW).

The A343F in the 100 series typically fails due to clutch wear (My 2000 LX470 has this problem). This type of failure is progressive and not at all what you are describing.
 
This one is interesting as the 343 is a pretty venerable transmission. I have no idea how much you know about these trucks, so don't take it personally here. We need to rule this one out for certain:

When you hit the center diff lock button, do you hear a faintly audible click from near your feet, and do you see the ABS, VSC, and CDL lamps illuminate as steady lights on the dash? There should be no blinking lamps. Need all of that to happen for this test to be meaningful. We're trying to get power to your back axle in the event that you blew a drive flange or CV spline. This is a VERY common failure which presents almost exactly as you are describing, so I want to make absolutely certain that this is not the case.

Otherwise, there are a couple long shot items in the trans that could lead to this.
Ok so lock the center and I hear the click more kind of passenger floorboard. Lights for vsc and the center lock come on dashboard. Oh one weird thing and this is the only thing I can think of sometimes while driving the vsx and center lock come on when I stop for a few mins. I just turn it on and then off lights go off. That's probably happened 5 times since I have owned her. When I called the trans shop they were surprised there wasn't any catastrophic damage or something. Is there something small maybe with vsc that would make no motion? Once again I appreciate everyone putting their heads to this.
This one is interesting as the 343 is a pretty venerable transmission. I have no idea how much you know about these trucks, so don't take it personally here. We need to rule this one out for certain:

When you hit the center diff lock button, do you hear a faintly audible click from near your feet, and do you see the ABS, VSC, and CDL lamps illuminate as steady lights on the dash? There should be no blinking lamps. Need all of that to happen for this test to be meaningful. We're trying to get power to your back axle in the event that you blew a drive flange or CV spline. This is a VERY common failure which presents almost exactly as you are describing, so I want to make absolutely certain that this is not the case.

Otherwise, there are a couple long shot items in the trans that could lead to this.
This one is interesting as the 343 is a pretty venerable transmission. I have no idea how much you know about these trucks, so don't take it personally here. We need to rule this one out for certain:

When you hit the center diff lock button, do you hear a faintly audible click from near your feet, and do you see the ABS, VSC, and CDL lamps illuminate as steady lights on the dash? There should be no blinking lamps. Need all of that to happen for this test to be meaningful. We're trying to get power to your back axle in the event that you blew a drive flange or CV spline. This is a VERY common failure which presents almost exactly as you are describing, so I want to make absolutely certain that this is not the case.

Otherwise, there are a couple long shot items in the trans that could lead to this.
Ok so lock the center and I hear the click more kind of passenger floorboard. Lights for vsc and the center lock come on dashboard. Oh one weird thing and this is the only thing I can think of sometimes while driving the vsx and center lock come on when I stop for a few mins. I just turn it on and then off lights go off. That's probably happened 5 times since I have owned her over two years. When I called the trans shop they were surprised there wasn't any catastrophic damage or something. Is there something small maybe with vsc that would make no motion? Once again I appreciate everyone putting their heads to this.
 
FWIW, the 2000 100 series (LC & LX) have a higher transmission failure rate than all the other 100 series year models, because Toyota made and sold 2x more of them in the US. It has the same transmission as the 1998-1999 and 2001. The 2002-2003 has the same series, but with different internal parts; I haven't been able to determine whether these are interchangeable or not (again, FWIW).

The A343F in the 100 series typically fails due to clutch wear (My 2000 LX470 has this problem). This type of failure is progressive and not at all what you are describing.


Theres definitely a common theme for trans failures on the 2000 MY, it's well documented on mud. It has nothing to due with production figures.
 
Do you see either of the front CVs moving when its in gear? This really sounds like a front hub failure and the center lock is not working. If non of the driveshafts are turning, though, then no power is leaving the transfer case.
 
Do you see either of the front CVs moving when its in gear? This really sounds like a front hub failure and the center lock is not working. If non of the driveshafts are turning, though, then no power is leaving the transfer case.
Okay so do cvs turn when in gear just in drive they should be moving? Cause drive shaft doesn't move in drive or reverse
 
Okay so do cvs turn when in gear just in drive they should be moving? Cause drive shaft doesn't move in drive or reverse
You have a rear and front driveshaft. Normally you can’t see the front driveshaft with the covers on, but you can see the CV axles. If your center lock is not locking and one of your hubs has failed, all of the power will go to that single axle and it will spin away.
 
You have a rear and front driveshaft. Normally you can’t see the front driveshaft with the covers on, but you can see the CV axles. If your center lock is not locking and one of your hubs has failed, all of the power will go to that single axle and it will spin away.
Ok gotcha so I should try it in gear and watch the cvs?
 
Yes
 

Theres definitely a common theme for trans failures on the 2000 MY, it's well documented on mud. It has nothing to due with production figures.
Thus spake Zarathustra
 
It has the same transmission as the 1998-1999 and 2001. The 2002-2003 has the same series, but with different internal parts;

There were substantial internal changes in the 2000 model year, enough to require a completely different rebuild kit for 2000 to 2002. There are two generations of A343F - 1995 to 1999, and 2000 to 2002. 2003 is a A720F five speed.
 
Nitpicking...but for accuracy's sake...2003-2007 got variants of the A750F (the 5 indicates 5 speeds).

What's the word, @Jacob117? Is one of your CVs spinning when in gear?
 
Nitpicking...but for accuracy's sake...2003-2007 got variants of the A750F (the 5 indicates 5 speeds).

What's the word, @Jacob117? Is one of your CVs spinning when in gear

Nitpicking...but for accuracy's sake...2003-2007 got variants of the A750F (the 5 indicates 5 speeds).

What's the word, @Jacob117? Is one of your CVs spinning when in gear?
Man this forum is honestly a major reason I pulled the trigger on this car. I have been a part of other car forums for mustangs and car clubs but you guys are so knowledgeable and willing to help and I really appreciate that

Update,
Nothing is moving haha. The front drive shaft will bump a little bit probly every third time it goes into drive. Cvs didn't move at all. Rear drive shaft no movement. Center lock on in D and R and no movement. Thoughts on torque converter? I have a mustang 5 speed and when my clutch went out it felt the exact same just boom and no movement. I am fairly mechanically inclined but transmissions in general always scared me haha too many parts. So I really don't know anything about internals on transmission. Any other thoughts?
 
Man this forum is honestly a major reason I pulled the trigger on this car. I have been a part of other car forums for mustangs and car clubs but you guys are so knowledgeable and willing to help and I really appreciate that

Update,
Nothing is moving haha. The front drive shaft will bump a little bit probly every third time it goes into drive. Cvs didn't move at all. Rear drive shaft no movement. Center lock on in D and R and no movement. Thoughts on torque converter? I have a mustang 5 speed and when my clutch went out it felt the exact same just boom and no movement. I am fairly mechanically inclined but transmissions in general always scared me haha too many parts. So I really don't know anything about internals on transmission. Any other thoughts?
Not sure why we're on page 2 here still discussing...everything you have described is a a typical trans failure in the 2000ish model. Perhaps would have expect a bit of whining noise preceding...and would kind of expect a bit of cement mixer gravel sound when putting into gear after the failure, but besides that you've described exactly what happed to my vehicle when the trans failed. Basically the planetary gears end up eating themselves up and you have no gears...no movement. You can get it rebuilt at a local shop or spend an extra $1000 and get a Toyota remanufactured. After doing the former and it failing again after 70K miles, I would recommend the later. Totally sucks, but most likely what is going on...
 
Not sure why we're on page 2 here still discussing...everything you have described is a a typical trans failure in the 2000ish model. Perhaps would have expect a bit of whining noise preceding...and would kind of expect a bit of cement mixer gravel sound when putting into gear after the failure, but besides that you've described exactly what happed to my vehicle when the trans failed. Basically the planetary gears end up eating themselves up and you have no gears...no movement. You can get it rebuilt at a local shop or spend an extra $1000 and get a Toyota remanufactured. After doing the former and it failing again after 70K miles, I would recommend the later. Totally sucks, but most likely what is going on...
I didn't know this type of failure can happen so suddenly. And almost without notice on the 2000's. I'll keep an eye on it.

But @codertimt what was the cause of that? Not changing the fluids enough? Or just that it's a 2000 and will failed eventually? Anything that could be done to prevent this type of transmission failure on the 2k's?
 
Not sure why we're on page 2 here still discussing...everything you have described is a a typical trans failure in the 2000ish model. Perhaps would have expect a bit of whining noise preceding...and would kind of expect a bit of cement mixer gravel sound when putting into gear after the failure, but besides that you've described exactly what happed to my vehicle when the trans failed. Basically the planetary gears end up eating themselves up and you have no gears...no movement. You can get it rebuilt at a local shop or spend an extra $1000 and get a Toyota remanufactured. After doing the former and it failing again after 70K miles, I would recommend the later. Totally sucks, but most likely what is going on...
Gotcha,
So you just got a reman? With the mention of the 2000 trans being more likely to fail did you get a different year reman?
 
I didn't know this type of failure can happen so suddenly. And almost without notice on the 2000's. I'll keep an eye on it.

But @codertimt what was the cause of that? Not changing the fluids enough? Or just that it's a 2000 and will failed eventually? Anything that could be done to prevent this type of transmission failure on the 2k's?

From what I remember it's a bad thrust washer or something like like. Not really anything that can be done... Not guaranteed to fail, just somewhat more likely. There is no full information of failure rates, but I've seen numbers like a 4% early failure rate from late 99 to early 2001...versus like 1% or something in other years. Maybe less than that for the 5 speed...

Gotcha,
So you just got a reman? With the mention of the 2000 trans being more likely to fail did you get a different year reman?

All toyota remanufactured should have issue fixed...so only if you are thinking of grabbing a junkyard trans to throw do you have to worry about year. And I didn't mean to imply that I know with 100% certainty that is the issue when I commenting on why we were still discussing...but if you have no movement at all, on these vehicles, either the trans went or front drive flanges went. Usually the drive flange is proceeded by some sort of shock load and you can still move with center diff locked. Of course unusually there is also some noised after the fact with the transmission, so definitely want to in some way verify...I would assume there should be decent metal in the pan...but yes reman IMVHO is the way to go...
 
From what I remember it's a bad thrust washer or something like like. Not really anything that can be done... Not guaranteed to fail, just somewhat more likely. There is no full information of failure rates, but I've seen numbers like a 4% early failure rate from late 99 to early 2001...versus like 1% or something in other years. Maybe less than that for the 5 speed...



All toyota remanufactured should have issue fixed...so only if you are thinking of grabbing a junkyard trans to throw do you have to worry about year. And I didn't mean to imply that I know with 100% certainty that is the issue when I commenting on why we were still discussing...but if you have no movement at all, on these vehicles, either the trans went or front drive flanges went. Usually the drive flange is proceeded by some sort of shock load and you can still move with center diff locked. Of course unusually there is also some noised after the fact with the transmission, so definitely want to in some way verify...I would assume there should be decent metal in the pan...but yes reman IMVHO is the way to go...
Update: Transmission shop called they said the overdrive is more than likely gone. They say that they don't have many come in but overdrive is usually what happens. Now to poll the group. I am not sure on cost 100 percent sure because he said he will get into it more and give me a quote with parts and labor. Let me also say I basically stole this car and couldn't replace it even with a full blown rebuild around 4k. I want to keep it and not worry about trans for a while. Would you guys trust a reman from online? Remanufactured & Rebuilt 2000 Lexus LX470 Transmissions. - https://reman-transmission.com/transmissions/lexus/lx470/2000/ automatic for 2500 with 5 year warranty or just do a rebuild on the original trans. Open to any and all suggestions/ discussion
 
Update: Transmission shop called they said the overdrive is more than likely gone. They say that they don't have many come in but overdrive is usually what happens. Now to poll the group. I am not sure on cost 100 percent sure because he said he will get into it more and give me a quote with parts and labor. Let me also say I basically stole this car and couldn't replace it even with a full blown rebuild around 4k. I want to keep it and not worry about trans for a while. Would you guys trust a reman from online? Remanufactured & Rebuilt 2000 Lexus LX470 Transmissions. - https://reman-transmission.com/transmissions/lexus/lx470/2000/ automatic for 2500 with 5 year warranty or just do a rebuild on the original trans. Open to any and all suggestions/ discussion
Guess it would depend on the reputation of the shop your currently working with an your confidence in their diagnosis / repair. Maybe ask them for more info and better understand how the diagnosed and what the steps / parts being used are for repairing.
 

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