200 Skid Plate Protection

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What's the real-world difference between the Bud Built Rock Armor vs Overland Setup?

(No, I haven't had time to actually read and compare all the details ;) Hoping someone here has...
I think the design is the same with the only differences being the material used. Overland is lighter and offers less protection due to thinner material.
  • Rock Armor: 3/16" Steel - 228 pounds (103kg) [stage 4]
  • Overland: 1/8" (3.175mm) Lite Steel - 167 pounds (76kg) [stage 4]
  • Overland: 1/4" (6.35mm) Aluminum Alloy - 115 pounds (52kg) [stage 4]
 
Other's have said this, but easy math. The aluminum is great for fire road overlanding. The light steel great for hairy unmaintained roads, and light trails. The armor is just incredible for trail and off rd. I punched out an oil pan from a high speed rock contact on a bush road many years ago and was lucky to eventually get recovered.

The aluminum would have saved that. But now I'm doing a lot of low speed crawling and needed something that could slide over my mistakes and not snag like aluminum, or, even hold the whole fully loaded vehicle up on a high center. The light steel could have worked for me, but I'm in rock country and sometimes don't get a choice on lines.
 
I’ve pushed my 200 pretty hard. Not has hard as some of you guys (Tony P comes to mind :)). I’ve had stock skid plates on it up until late April this year. The factory skid plates are pretty adequate for overland type trips. Mechanical Sympathy and careful tire placement go a long way. Adding a super robust skid system is pretty far down on the list for me if you have budget constraints. Taking the $1200 that a nice skid system costs, and paying someone like Bill Burke for a driving lesson will be money much better spent. That being said we currently have a skid system in R&D and we’re putting it through it’s paces.
 
I’ve pushed my 200 pretty hard. Not has hard as some of you guys (Tony P comes to mind :)). I’ve had stock skid plates on it up until late April this year. The factory skid plates are pretty adequate for overland type trips. Mechanical Sympathy and careful tire placement go a long way. Adding a super robust skid system is pretty far down on the list for me if you have budget constraints. Taking the $1200 that a nice skid system costs, and paying someone like Bill Burke for a driving lesson will be money much better spent. That being said we currently have a skid system in R&D and we’re putting it through it’s paces.

In some rock obstacles, you are going to hit no matter how skilled you are. I agree about lines, but believe me...there are obstacles out there where even the best line is going to hit and hit hard. Bill Burke lessons are great, no doubt...but in some cases, you either withstand impacts...or you turn around or take a bypass..l Sometimes, turning around isn’t an option.

We all choose different trails and accept or reject challenges at some level. Most here aren’t doing those kind crazy of obstacles. But for some, it’s strong armor, or trouble.
 
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In some rock obstacles, you are going to hit no matter how skilled you are. I agree about lines, but believe me...there are obstacles out there where even the best line is going to hit and hit hard. We all choose different trails, and most here aren’t doing those kind of obstacles. But for some, it’s strong skids, or trouble.

Absolutely! And to be fair, taking my factory skids on and off is a chore because they’re so mangled lol. However, they have done their job above and beyond :)

Those tougher trails I just use a different arrow from the quiver.
 
It is a simpler debate. none of us intentionally take bad lines. Sometimes I am exhausted, sometimes the shadows cover the drop, sometimes it is pitch black and the trail is unknown, sometimes the rocks slip and get kicked up, sometimes I pick the wrong line, and sometimes I am trying to keep momentum up the gully and the tires are crabbing sideways and I hit the damn thing. Chartering a heavy lift helicopter is a lot more money than some armor.
 
It is a simpler debate. none of us intentionally take bad lines. Sometimes I am exhausted, sometimes the shadows cover the drop, sometimes it is pitch black and the trail is unknown, sometimes the rocks slip and get kicked up, sometimes I pick the wrong line, and sometimes I am trying to keep momentum up the gully and the tires are crabbing sideways and I hit the damn thing. Chartering a heavy lift helicopter is a lot more money than some armor.

This.

And...some situations can be to precarious that you either take the hit and keep going...or you brake too hard in avoiding them......and roll your truck.

I know that sounds far-fetched, but here is a spot where the factors were exactly that (see photo below).

This decline was so tippy, so severe and unevenly steep that I was hanging my driver tires repeatedly...while attempting not to roll to the right and down. Would have been very bad. But...when at the edge of tipping, braking too hard would have been all it took to go beyond the limit. So...taking the hits here was literally a choice. Hard to describe...and this photo does NOT do the scenario justice. @TonyP was spotting and can vouch. This was super iffy. Banging and avoiding a roll-over was far better than braking to avoid bangs...and losing the entire rig...

What you can’t see in this photo are my hanging left side, and the more iffy section I’m about to drop into. Pretty sure it looked worse as a spotter than as a driver... because the angles were more obviously nutty from outside...

But anyway... I’ll take skids. ;)
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I have taken much harder hits than this one scenario, but it’s an interesting example of how sometimes even well-chosen line can still bang. :meh:
 
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This.

And...some situations can be to precarious that you either take the hit and keep going...or you brake too hard in avoiding them......and roll your truck.

I know that sounds far-fetched, but here is a spot where the factors were exactly that (see photo below).

This decline was so tippy, so severe and unevenly steep that I was hanging my driver tires repeatedly...while attempting not to roll to the right and down. Would have been very bad. But...when at the edge of tipping, braking too hard would have been all it took to go beyond the limit. So...taking the hits here was literally a choice. Hard to describe...and this photo does NOT do the scenario justice. @TonyP was spotting and can vouch. This was super iffy. Banging and avoiding a roll-over was far better than braking to avoid bangs...and losing the entire rig...

What you can’t see in this photo are my hanging left side, and the more iffy section I’m about to drop into. Pretty sure it looked worse as a spotter than as a driver... because the angles were more obviously nutty from outside...

But anyway... I’ll take skids. ;)
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I have taken much harder hits than this one scenario, but it’s an interesting example of how sometimes even well-chosen line can still bang. :meh:
That is fun, what trail is that?
 
That is fun, what trail is that?

Near the end of Steel Bender.

Aparrently (according to drivers who had done it years before), that last obstacle had degraded big time and was sketchier on the right-side alternative than they remembered. A couple trucks did the big wall to the right with a strapped rear to prevent rolling forward, and a few of us did the left in the photo. Others turned back to an alternate exit. Ken Romer did it, and as I recall, he said, “Not doin that one again!” Hehe. He’s a smart man. :) I wouldn’t recommend it...although who knows—Obstacles change. Might be easy-peasy now...or a mess. That’s one thing about revisiting trails that keeps them fun.. Unless they are all solid “slick rock” they change a lot.
 
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How would you guys rate the ARB skid plate system? Generally, I hear nothing but good things about ARB stuff on here and how tough it is but everyone seems to be in one of two camps... 1) leave the OEM's on because you're not seriously rock crawling or 2)Get the $1500+ set because you ARE doing rock crawling. The ARB's are currently under $600. Are they a waste of money because they are not any better than the OEM's? Not trying to stir up trouble, just trying to understand what my options are and thinking I could get a Prinsu rack AND the ARB skids for the same price as Slee/BB skids.
 
How would you guys rate the ARB skid plate system? Generally, I hear nothing but good things about ARB stuff on here and how tough it is but everyone seems to be in one of two camps... 1) leave the OEM's on because you're not seriously rock crawling or 2)Get the $1500+ set because you ARE doing rock crawling. The ARB's are currently under $600. Are they a waste of money because they are not any better than the OEM's? Not trying to stir up trouble, just trying to understand what my options are and thinking I could get a Prinsu rack AND the ARB skids for the same price as Slee/BB skids.

Definitely not a waste of money... the main legitimate complaint about the ARBs is that the transfer case skid isn't isolated from the transfer case. At best, it may deter a puncture but at worst could actually be a damage multiplier. I hit my transfer skid pretty hard (enough to bend it and the mount) and subsequently had some minor transfer case issues that could have been explained by impact. It could have been a coincidence or it could have been a result of the skid... no way to tell.

The OEM skids seem to hold up relatively well. Think about your use case and whether aftermarket skids are worth the weight and cost at all...
 
How would you guys rate the ARB skid plate system? Generally, I hear nothing but good things about ARB stuff on here and how tough it is but everyone seems to be in one of two camps... 1) leave the OEM's on because you're not seriously rock crawling or 2)Get the $1500+ set because you ARE doing rock crawling. The ARB's are currently under $600. Are they a waste of money because they are not any better than the OEM's? Not trying to stir up trouble, just trying to understand what my options are and thinking I could get a Prinsu rack AND the ARB skids for the same price as Slee/BB skids.

They are definitely a great bang for the buck. As Cole said above, evaluate your needs and go from there. If your banging fire roads and exploring easy to moderate stuff they are a great upgrade from the stock plates (fairly decent for stock stuff).
 
So folks can visualize this better, the green are the three metal plates (and the green highlighted area would be the new welded/reinforced plate), and the red highlighted parts are the plastic shields.

Thinking about frame flex under articulation loads, it occurs to me that this may be one reason why the shielding is so “flimsy” and multi-component — could it be that it’s purposely designed to allow flex? So the three metal plate design is engineered to buckle a little bit under particular geometries? A good way to test this in the field is to examine ARB & other skid plate setups to see if the mounting holes are being stretched after years of heavy duty use, in other words — to determine if those setups result in something like frame plating (making ladder frame less flexible) or if they still permit the necessary flex.

I know we are talking about minimal angles of flex in OEM v. variously reinforced frames, but from an engineering perspective, it’s still worthwhile to think about.

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Love this view of the underneath.
 

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