200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database (20 Viewers)

[lcjockey]

I went with:
BFGoodrich
KO3
275/70R18

Very happy with them but very few miles on theM at the moment. I like the look compared to my old tires and happy with the wheels. I was worried for a little thinking I made the wrong choice - but love them now. I have plans to hopefully cover up the chrome strip in the future.

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Very nice! Bone stock, any trimming? Thanks

 

[wjcunningham3]

Very nice! Bone stock, any trimming? Thanks

Dang - I meant to include that info!

Only the Toyota spacer
Refreshed stock suspension

 

[Viking03]

I assumed they were the same in weight as the others. Great info thanks.

Another combo to add: Evo Corse 18” et45 with 275/65 R18 Falken AT4W’s SL. I wanted a softer and more rugged looking setup than the stock 21’s. Also needed better snow traction for commuting. No rubbing or need for plastic adjustments. The rake looks a bit aggressive but she’s parked on a bit of a downhill angle.

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This combo looks great.

 

[TeCKis300]

Question, I am thinking about going to 34s (285/70r18) from the stock tires on my 2013 LC. I am thinking I want to use the Wescott designs preload collar lift as a cheap stopgap until I am ready to get some real suspension (so supposedly 3" front and 1" rear). The wheels that I also want to purchase at the same time are a +18mm offset, so about 1.6 inches out from standard +60mm offset. At the moment, this is my daily and so it will be pretty strictly on-road driving but I am not too worried about ride quality differences from E load tires.

I have the standard front bumper, mudflaps, etc. Does anyone know if A: those tires will fit with that amount of offset, or B: Would I likely need to do any trimming of the wheel wells or use an additional spacer of some kind?

I do not see anyone running a +18 offset wheel in the database.

Thanks!

285/70r18 is a great size!

Do yourself a favor, skip the Wescott and look at Bilsteins. They are as proper a suspension as anything, and for about the same money will give you lift on the front using adjustable perches on the shock bodies using stock (or aftermarket) front springs, while adding a bit more performance damping to support the taller ride height.

Skip +18 offset, and use no less than +25. Lower offset has dramatic impacts to traction, handling (especially on-road), and fitment. Ideal offset depends on tire diameter, but ideally, you'll want to stay in the +25 to +40 offset range. Low offsets are worst thing you can do and has on more than one occasion, ruined what is otherwise a highly capable rig/build. The poke will cause the tire to hit the fender in real off-roading, create more fitment issues in the wheel well and body mount with tire swing, and invite bad handling, busy steering, and more stress on the suspension/steering rack with how it impacts suspension geometry.

 

[TeCKis300]

To be fair, there is a place for +18 and +0 offsets. Hardcore rockcrawlers rely on poke to keep rocks off the body and gain more sidehill stability. It's going to take a different strategy and build bias that trades daily drivability and balanced offroad performance like fast Baja running. Because of the compression travel deep into the fenders, poke will need a serious fender cut, body lift, limit up travel, or a combination thereof. Add tire size limitations because of swing into the body mount.

A better way to get poke might be long travel arms like Tundra arms. This allows a wider track with good geometry. Fender clearance is still a problem so same strategy one applies. But won't tire swing is okay.

Or portals...