200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database (4 Viewers)

[AnyMal]

this photo shows why I don't ever want to fill up my wheel well when parked on pavement. I need the wheel well to absorb articulation.

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Nice , is that a custom jalopy trim?

 

[chris777]

because Tundra bros want poke, and have huge lifts, that's why the offsets are around 0.

Oh, ok, got it. Thanks

 

[chris777]

Nice , is that a custom jalopy trim?

Sorry, i dont know what you mean by “custom jalopy trim.”

 

[AnyMal]

Sorry, i dont know what you mean by “custom jalopy trim.”

I was just taking the piss. No worries. q

 

[lx200inAR]

thank you AmyMal and Teckis 300 for taking the time to post a reply. I have Googled for a source on the Internet that says that taller tires require moving them outboard with a smaller number offset..... or, that the offset changes when you go to a taller tire. So, maybe you are right about that, maybe not. I don't know. I am certainly open to the idea. But not convinced.

My FJ60 will remain my difficult trail Land Cruiser. I would never fill the wheel well, because I know how much articulation I need in order to get up rough rocky trails. Especially when I have loaded her down with 15 gallons extra fuel, 20+ gallons of water, a 75 Dometic, food, beer, 2 tents, tools, spare parts, clothes etc. It has 33 x 15 x 10.50s. I've done the Maze District four times, the Needles twice, The Hole in the Rock "TRAIL" once, and many more. I have never needed 35s. But then, I don't like mud. I like rock and sand. My 2018 Land Cruiser has 20 inch Black Rhinos with 275/55/20s. I will use the 200 on milder runs..... White Rim, the Henrys, South Coyote Buttes, Toroweap, and so on. So I want new wheels and tires, but I don't want to give up any precious room for my wheels and rear axle to mover around. Probably bump it up to a 60 is all and stay at 275 or go 265 because of the straight line traction of a slightly narrower tire. I am currently looking on eBay.

In looking at aftermarket wheels, I got frustrated because there is no wheel, and I have looked, that has the +56 offset that the stock wheels were. I respect the Toyota Designers and engineers on this. The closest is the +43 Evo Corse. But they are so expensive. I love the Methods, but in 18", they only offer +25. the Hoss has +50 in a 20 inch tire. Don't want 20s. I air down sometimes. At the Toyota Dealership, they want $800 for each TRD Pro wheel.

I don't understand why there aren't any wheel builders that make aftermarket wheels for trucks built by the biggest most successful automobile company in the world Toyota. There are lots of Tundras. My guess was people didn't know or care about Offset.... or that they want less offset so that the wheels will poke or fill the wheel well.

I see our beloved Land Cruiser as a tool. Thats me. I use it the way it was intended. If I wanted something beautiful I would buy the Hyundai Pallisade!!! LOL. And that is where we differ. I am sorry I have hurt some feelings. I really do.

far right is my 200, the middle is my 60, the one on the far left is just to "poke" a little fun. I don't want to even know what the offset is on my 60, now that I know about it.

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I'll start by saying i probably jumped the gun a little in claiming you were "aggressive", my apologies. Here's a calculator that shows you the affect of going to a taller tire on scrub radius (it makes a guestimate on the actual change in scrub radius, but in reality this would vary by vehicle depending on the suspension geometry). If you look at the "scrub radius" part of the table, it shows how the scrub radius has become negative if no changes are made to the tire except adding height.

And from here. Installing a taller tire without changing anything else does not change the geometry of any of the parts in this diagram. So the effect of adding a taller tire takes you from A to C, and likewise, going to a shorter tire, goes from A to B.

I do agree it's seems like there should be more options in the 60-40mm offset. I mean, I know any wheel built for the USA market with a 5x150 bolt pattern is not marketed towards the LC (Tundras dominate the market by like 25 to 1, if not more). But the OEM size for Tundra is the same as LC, so you'd think there'd be a few. On the other hand, the market for people who want OEM offset and aftermarket wheels is probably not that big. That is to say, that if someone wants to stay OEM, they'd probably stick with OEM wheels and not be in the market for non OEM high offset wheels.

 

[Tex68w]

You can have whatever offset you want with certain wheel manufacturers but be prepared to pay for it. Braid comes to mind and I am constantly tempted to order a set of Braid wheels for mine but until I know exactly where I am taking this build I am going to hold off on the wheel purchase.

 

[TeCKis300]

thank you AmyMal and Teckis 300 for taking the time to post a reply. I have Googled for a source on the Internet that says that taller tires require moving them outboard with a smaller number offset..... or, that the offset changes when you go to a taller tire. So, maybe you are right about that, maybe not. I don't know. I am certainly open to the idea. But not convinced.

My FJ60 will remain my difficult trail Land Cruiser. I would never fill the wheel well, because I know how much articulation I need in order to get up rough rocky trails. Especially when I have loaded her down with 15 gallons extra fuel, 20+ gallons of water, a 75 Dometic, food, beer, 2 tents, tools, spare parts, clothes etc. It has 33 x 15 x 10.50s. I've done the Maze District four times, the Needles twice, The Hole in the Rock "TRAIL" once, and many more. I have never needed 35s. But then, I don't like mud. I like rock and sand. My 2018 Land Cruiser has 20 inch Black Rhinos with 275/55/20s. I will use the 200 on milder runs..... White Rim, the Henrys, South Coyote Buttes, Toroweap, and so on. So I want new wheels and tires, but I don't want to give up any precious room for my wheels and rear axle to mover around. Probably bump it up to a 60 is all and stay at 275 or go 265 because of the straight line traction of a slightly narrower tire. I am currently looking on eBay.

In looking at aftermarket wheels, I got frustrated because there is no wheel, and I have looked, that has the +56 offset that the stock wheels were. I respect the Toyota Designers and engineers on this. The closest is the +43 Evo Corse. But they are so expensive. I love the Methods, but in 18", they only offer +25. the Hoss has +50 in a 20 inch tire. Don't want 20s. I air down sometimes. At the Toyota Dealership, they want $800 for each TRD Pro wheel.

I don't understand why there aren't any wheel builders that make aftermarket wheels for trucks built by the biggest most successful automobile company in the world Toyota. There are lots of Tundras. My guess was people didn't know or care about Offset.... or that they want less offset so that the wheels will poke or fill the wheel well.

I see our beloved Land Cruiser as a tool. Thats me. I use it the way it was intended. If I wanted something beautiful I would buy the Hyundai Pallisade!!! LOL. And that is where we differ. I am sorry I have hurt some feelings. I really do.

far right is my 200, the middle is my 60, the one on the far left is just to "poke" a little fun. I don't want to even know what the offset is on my 60, now that I know about it.

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The picture that @lx200inAR posted above shows why geometrically that a larger diameter tire wants a lower offset. It is related to the kingpin inclination angle built into the upright of the suspension. We can drill deeper into the why and geometry, but might be more compelling by example. TRD Rock Warriors were made for a 32.7" tall tire, and is why they are +50mm offset, versus the stock +60mm offset for a stock 31.5" tire. Project this inclination angle out for larger and larger tires.

Concerning tire clearance, yes it's an important thing. Understand that the 200-series does not have the same suspension architecture of older cruiser that use leaf springs and such. It's an double wishbone IFS front. And a 5-link solid axle out back. These are some or the most accurate locating architectures and why the new generation of vehicles have such poise and control on and off-road. It's so good, it's why you see the new gen Ford Raptor finally adopt the more sophisticated 5-link rear. As does the RAM TRX.

As you stated you like sand, I'd caution the 265s. These vehicles are heavy, especially with gear. Tread length will only go so far for floatation. Need width and airing down or it won't float in the softest of sand. Again, unlike old vehicles, the 200-series has power and can benefit and use the width to the best effect.

Sure, there still needs to be clearance and granted mine is on the aggressive end. My picture was only to show even with the vehicle slammed (it'll still tuck beyond that), that I've done the due diligence to flex out the suspension and it clears without rub.

 

[grinchy]

It's a minor quibble, but I run 'skinny' tires (currently 10.5", formerly on 275mm). These aren't really 'skinny' tires though. They are relatively skinny only when compared to a 12.5" tire (20% ish skinnier). Compared to the majority of tires run on 4x4 vehicles in history, they'd be wide.

Not much sand where I live, and I don't have the equipment for boggin'. Those are the two criteria for 'wide'(er). What I get from these 'skinny' tires is the same ground clearance aired up and down, and easier fitment parameters for the LX570.

 

[kreiten]

@lx200inAR covered everything well and ill add a couple more notes.

Nobody here is chasing poke, but some more or less a fender flush fitment. How something looks is important to varying degrees but no one can say its irrelevant.
We are also managing poke due to wheel selection issues. We are also (some of us) trying to avoid spacers.
And some slightly less of us in newer LXs are only offered somewhat stylistically matched OEM wheels in 20" as our smallest option.

The factory offset (we are assuming) is neutral and much too light for me and some others as well.
Adding some positive scrub can actually improve stability. It completely negated the jittery nature of my steering for example.
Contact patch directly at the steering pivot point isnt even intended on IFS double wishbone setups to begin with.
The road forces act too aggressively on wheel traction and power steering is already too light to be super stable and is easily influenced by road defects. This is the shopping cart effect, and all of the mass market oriented Toyotas have the same feel so that grandma can steer easily and Toyota isnt gospel. Not in performance anyway.
We (mainly myself) are constantly looking for the most optimal fitment for our tire size and no one that i know here is running crazy poke except for @kreiten, but he has a lifelong grudge against the publics windshields and paint. Jokes aside as he can probably tell you there are good reasons to widen your track for crawling.
Also the amount of paint damage is fairly negligible anyway for what most here are running (even me, and trust me im more anal than you) but depends on the terrain. If you look at your truck on a rainy day you will see that almost all of the same debris splashing takes place on your door panels because every time you turn your steering your wheels are positioned outside your fender and one of them will be spraying right at your body panels.
Lastly, a lot of folks running bigger tires than stock are removing/repositioning mudflaps anyway and a simple aftermarket fender flare or flared flaps solves it for $100. Im confused how you thought it was some insurmountable challenge that didn't effect OEM fittings.

Im all for purity in design intent but at the same time you have to realize we are all trying to make improvements but make compromises along the way.
If you think some +25-40 offsets look dumb, i can tell you that the stock fitment looks terrible in my opinion. But that second sentiment is shared by probably the entire automotive enthusiast community. Stance is a huge thing regardless of how much you hate it and has spawned a billion(s) $ industry of aftermarket wheels.

LMAO, no confirmed windshields taken out yet man, but the day is young I'll be out running trails while you guys decide the proper offset everyone should be running

 

[TeCKis300]

It's a minor quibble, but I run 'skinny' tires (currently 10.5", formerly on 275mm). These aren't really 'skinny' tires though. They are relatively skinny only when compared to a 12.5" tire (20% ish skinnier). Compared to the majority of tires run on 4x4 vehicles in history, they'd be wide.

Not much sand where I live, and I don't have the equipment for boggin'. Those are the two criteria for 'wide'(er). What I get from these 'skinny' tires is the same ground clearance aired up and down, and easier fitment parameters for the LX570.

To your credit, you're running 35s, and when paired that way with skinnies, can provide a nice long surface area for floatation. Probably works great in sand! It's the relatively smaller diameter skinnies that will be giving up surface area in every dimension.

 

[AnyMal]

To your credit, you're running 35s, and when paired that way with skinnies, can provide a nice long surface area for floatation. Probably works great in sand! It's the relatively smaller diameter skinnies that will be giving up surface area in every dimension.

Andrew St. Pierre sure as hell harps about skinnies for sand all the time.

 

[TeCKis300]

Andrew St. Pierre sure as hell harps about skinnies for sand all the time.

Good guy and I've learned a bit watching his channel. I'd say context is important as he's strictly an overlander. Doesn't necessarily look for the fun or more challenging path, over getting to a destination. Efficiency is a priority for him and no doubt skinnies can work better in that regard.

This video speaks well to this and actually show exactly where I want my car to perform as some of the sand and silt in the southwest can be similar.

Some notes
- He's tried to build as light as he could, yet is still heavy (~8500lbs). Some built 200-series laden for a trip are not far from this number.
- Falken AT3W 285/75R16 (32.8" x 11.1"). Great tire in sand btw from my experience.
- Diesel 79 series, read: heavy, crude, and lower power (HP)
- This is flat ground, not even a grade or dune where floatation and power come can really come into play

 

[Tex68w]

I love his channel and have been watching/reading his material for years, good stuff.

 

[AnyMal]

Good guy and I've learned a bit watching his channel. I'd say context is important as he's strictly an overlander. Doesn't necessarily look for the fun or more challenging path, over getting to a destination. Efficiency is a priority for him and no doubt skinnies can work better in that regard.

This video speaks well to this and actually show exactly where I want my car to perform as some of the sand and silt in the southwest can be similar.

Some notes
- He's tried to build as light as he could, yet is still heavy (~8500lbs). Some built 200-series laden for a trip are not far from this number.
- Falken AT3W 285/75R16 (32.8" x 11.1"). Great tire in sand btw from my experience.
- Diesel 79 series, read: heavy, crude, and lower power (HP)
- This is flat ground, not even a grade or dune where floatation and power come can really come into play

You can see where its begining to "push" the sand where it should roll.
If you pay attention (i know you do) there is a point in a tires conformity profile where it will no longer asborb an obstacle and use the momentum to eat the bump and translate that into rotation but rather deform so abruptly that it will push against it (as well as fight your suspension design) and impede forward travel.
I guess sand is an exaggerated model of this.
I would say that on such terrain there is a window of pressure (for every speed interval) that allows this transfer to function best.
Its probably higher than i would imagine.

Also his wife just TROLLING and grinning is fantastic. "stuck again aye"

 

[Dixon Santana]

Switched to an A/T and thoroughly enjoying the switch. My current driving situation requires a fair bit of highway driving and M/T tires are not a good fit for me anymore. Went with the Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT (295/70R18.) So far I’m very impressed by how smooth and quiet these tires are.
Still haven’t made my mind up whether I want to switch to a 275/70R18. Not sure if I’d be able to squeeze out a bit more fuel range stepping down in size. A comprobable A/T in a 275/70R18 (KO2) is the same weight as the cooper in a 295 (59lbs.)
Also don’t know if the 275’s would look small on the 200 with the amount of clearance I have in the wheel well right now.
The manager at the Discount Tire I went to said I have 30 days to decide. Decisions, decisions…

 

[Tex68w]

Switched to an A/T and thoroughly enjoying the switch. My current driving situation requires a fair bit of highway driving and M/T tires are not a good fit for me anymore. Went with the Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT (295/70R18.) So far I’m very impressed by how smooth and quiet these tires are.
Still haven’t made my mind up whether I want to switch to a 275/70R18. Not sure if I’d be able to squeeze out a bit more fuel range stepping down in size. A comprobable A/T in a 275/70R18 (KO2) is the same weight as the cooper in a 295 (59lbs.)
Also don’t know if the 275’s would look small on the 200 with the amount of clearance I have in the wheel well right now.
The manager at the Discount Tire I went to said I have 30 days to decide. Decisions, decisions…

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That looks great! I like the 275's we have on ours but I am only running the OEM 10mm spacers in the front, if I had a true lift and I were shopping for new rubber I'd definitely be going up a size. That said, there are a few here who are running 275's with a lift so it is done and it looks ok with the proper offset wheel or with wheel spacers. I doubt you pick up much in the way of fuel economy by stepping down a size so I vote you keep what you have there.

 

[04UZJ100]

Switched to an A/T and thoroughly enjoying the switch. My current driving situation requires a fair bit of highway driving and M/T tires are not a good fit for me anymore. Went with the Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT (295/70R18.) So far I’m very impressed by how smooth and quiet these tires are.
Still haven’t made my mind up whether I want to switch to a 275/70R18. Not sure if I’d be able to squeeze out a bit more fuel range stepping down in size. A comprobable A/T in a 275/70R18 (KO2) is the same weight as the cooper in a 295 (59lbs.)
Also don’t know if the 275’s would look small on the 200 with the amount of clearance I have in the wheel well right now.
The manager at the Discount Tire I went to said I have 30 days to decide. Decisions, decisions…

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How was it fitting them? I see you still have mudflaps. No spacers?

 

[Dixon Santana]

How was it fitting them? I see you still have mudflaps. No spacers?

Not too difficult, just have to play with the alignment. Definitely still need the KDSS relocation. I removed the stock mudflaps and put in some generic ones. They don’t bulge out like the OE mudflaps.

 

[Tex68w]

Not too difficult, just have to play with the alignment. Definitely still need the KDSS relocation. I removed the stock mudflaps and put in some generic ones. They don’t bulge out like the OE mudflaps.

Details and pics of these mud flaps?

 

[f2f46]

Does anyone have pics of the 2016+ stock double 5-spoke wheels powder coated bronze? I found them in another thread but not mounted

Ideally a darker bronze, similar to HE color. My LC is blue onyx pearl

Also wondering how to address centercaps if I went that route.

@Eric Sarjeant any builds you've done with bronze powder coated wheels?

Thanks!