200 Series Lift using Tundra front IFS and Icon shocks (2 Viewers)

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just binge read this whole thread, so what key things I gathered I might have already forgotten. This thread is also 8 years of trial and error so its a bit difficult to confirm what would be absolute for my setup.

2018 base model, friend of mine has a 2020 tundra trd pro, so I have the oppurtunity to take his wheels, front coilovers (trd pro fox) and uca.
gonna source out the oem tundra lca, axles and tie rod ends. Probably gonna stay with a "modest" 285/70/18 tire.

it seems like endlink and lower shock mount bolt are case to case issues. Besides those 2 things I feel like I can expect a smooth setup (relatively speaking) anything else I might need to know or expect?
 
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just binge read this whole thread, so what key things I gathered I might have already forgotten. This thread is also 8 years of trial and error so its a bit difficult to confirm what would be absolute for my setup.

2018 base model, friend of mine has a 2020 tundra trd pro, so I have the oppurtunity to take his wheels, front coilovers (trd pro fox) and uca.
gonna source out the oem tundra lca, axles and tie rod ends. Probably gonna stay with a "modest" 285/70/18 tire.

it seems like endlink and lower shock mount bolt are case to case issues. Besides those 2 things I feel like I can expect a smooth setup (relatively speaking) anything else I might need to know or expect?
Personally, I did the kdss relocation, although you may have a Lexus so it wouldn’t be applicable
 
Personally, I did the kdss relocation, although you may have a Lexus so it wouldn’t be applicable
Interesting... any particular reason? The tundra arms move the tire further out, so the relocation is even less necessary (even at full lock).
 
Depending on wheel offset I still get rubbing on the KDSS with 35s. (50mm offset wheels)
Would be interesting to see photos of the sway bar linkages with KDSS pushed forward.
 
Depending on wheel offset I still get rubbing on the KDSS with 35s. (50mm offset wheels)
Would be interesting to see photos of the sway bar linkages with KDSS pushed forward.
Thank you... it was the 35s part I was missing. I was running 34s and was okay, so didn't put that together.
 
Before I started assembling parts, I contacted Icon to see if the parts were interechangeable. They are not the same, but it seems like if you had one, they could revalve and exchange the bushing in the lower mount and they would be swap-able..
I kept the upper control arms off the tundra, and found a set of Tundra Icons on craigslist for about half of new pricing. They were 2 yrs old, kid worked at a toyota dealership and had installed a long travel suspension. They seemed to be in good shape and the price was right.
What year range on Tundra parts? Have a 2010 LX.
Screenshot_20231117_131540_Facebook.jpg
 
07-21 should be the same for the parts needed for the swap.
 
Here are the specs I give the shop I go to:
Camber +.1 both sides, caster:as much as possible

If you Google socal chevy tundra alignment specs you can find the full list.
 
Here are the specs I give the shop I go to:
Camber +.1 both sides, caster:as much as possible

If you Google socal chevy tundra alignment specs you can find the full list.
I tried lookin but there were so many specs, I wasn’t sure if it pertained to the 200 series with the tundra IfS because the wheel and tire difference as well
 
I’ve also noticed people with bud built skid plates having to trim or cut. Wasn’t sure if there was an option that didn’t require trimming besides oem (my car didn’t come with it); either arb, slee?
 
I have a hard copy of this paragraph, and the SPC instructions for dialing in alignment with adjustable arms. I drop it off with my keys when I get alignments done. Been pretty good to handling and tire wear.

So.......here's what I recommend.

STOCK TRUCKS:
Camber: +.1 degree camber on both sides.
Caster: As much as possible without sacrificing +.1 degree camber or causing a cross caster pull.
Toe: +.12 degrees per side for a total toe of +.24 degrees. (some guys have had to drop toe to +.04 to +.5 per side/+.08 to +.10 total toe)

LIFTED TRUCKS:
Same As Above ... BUT if you have wheels that have more negative offset than foctory wheels, increase the camber to +.2 degrees. (or even +.3 degrees if they just can't get there with the amount of adjustment allowed by the eccentrics) Adjustable upper control arms are available for cases where there just isn't enough adjustment left in the eccentrics to get a decent alignment. Although they are expensive, most guys with lifts have a lot of $$$ invested in tires so you need to make a judgement call.

Lifted from this page:
 
"I’ve also noticed people with bud built skid plates having to trim or cut. Wasn’t sure if there was an option that didn’t require trimming besides oem (my car didn’t come with it); either arb, slee?"

Dissent skid plates have no interference with a Tundra swap, even under full articulation in the field.
 
That’s great to hear because they are significantly cheaper. I get it, you get what you pay for but I also don’t rock crawl or anything to warrant such things. Thanks for the confirmation
No issues with my skids and Tundra suspension too.
 

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